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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WBT  MAIN  STRUT 

WnSTH.N.Y.  14SM 

(7U)S7a-4903 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microraproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  da  microraproductions  historiquas 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notos/Notas  tachniquas  at  bibliographiquas 


Tha  Instituta  has  attamptad  to  obtain  tha  bast 
original  copy  avallabia  for  filming.  Faaturas  of  this 
copy  which  may  ba  bibliographically  unlqua. 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imegas  in  tha 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


□    Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


D 


D 
D 


0 


D 


D 


Couverture  endommag6e 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurie  at/ou  palilculAe 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  giographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I     I   Coloured  plates  and/or  Illustrations/ 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  an  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relii  avac  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

Lareliure  serrie  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intArleure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouttas 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  la  texte, 
mais.  lorsque  cela  itait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  M  filmias. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  supplAmentaires: 


L'Institut  a  microf  llmA  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  At4  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibllographique.  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mAthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqute  cl-dessous. 

□   Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

□   Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagtes 

□   Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurias  et/ou  pellicul6es 


>/ 


0 


Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  dicolortes.  tachetikes  ou  piquAas 


I     I   Pages  detached/ 


Pages  dttachies 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prin 

Quality  inAgale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materii 
Comprend  du  material  supplimantaira 


r^   Showthrough/ 

I      I   Quality  of  print  varies/ 

r~|   Includes  supplementary  material/ 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Mition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc..  have  been  ref limed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata.  une  palure. 
etc..  ont  M  filmtes  A  nouveau  de  fapon  A 
obtenir  la  meiileure  image  possible. 


Thfl 
tol 


Thi 
poi 
ofi 
flin 


Ori 
bai 
tha 
sio 
otii 
fira 
alo 
ori 


Th( 
ahi 
TIP 
wh 

Ma 

dif 
enl 
bei 
rigl 
red 
ma 


This  item  is  filmed  at  tha  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  f  llmA  au  taux  de  reduction  indiquA  cl-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


30X 


V 


12X 


16X 


aox 


24X 


28X 


32X 


The  copy  filmtd  hare  ha*  baan  raproducad  thanka 
to  tha  ganarosity  of: 

Morisstt  Library 
Univarstty  off  Ottawa 


L'axamplaira  film*  fut  raproduit  grAca  A  la 
gAnAroaM  da: 

Biblioth^ua  Morisiat 
UnivariM  d'Ottawa 


Tha  imagaa  appearing  hara  ara  tha  baat  quality 
poaalbia  conaldaring  tha  condition  and  lagibility 
of  tha  original  copy  and  in  Icaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  apaeif icationa. 


Laa  imagas  auivantaa  ont  AtA  raproduitaa  avac  la 
plua  grand  toin,  compta  tanu  da  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattatA  da  raxamplaira  fiimA.  at  an 
conformitA  avac  las  conditions  du  contrat  da 
filmaga. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covera  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  iaat  page  with  a  printed  or  illuatrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  whan  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illuatrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  iaat  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
ehail  contain  the  symbol  ^^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  eppliea. 

IMaps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  ara  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  aa  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrama  illustrate  the 
method: 


Lea  exemplairas  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  ImprimAe  sont  filmAs  en  commenpant 
par  la  premier  plat  at  an  terminant  soit  par  la 
darnlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'iilustration,  soit  par  la  second 
plat,  salon  la  cas.  Tous  las  autres  exemplairas 
originaux  sont  filmAs  an  comman9ant  par  la 
pramlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'iilustration  at  an  terminant  par 
la  darnlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparattra  sur  la 
darnlAre  image  de  chaque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE ".  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartas,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmAs  A  des  taux  de  rAduction  diff Arents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA,  11  est  fiimA  A  partir 
da  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  an  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaira.  Les  diagrammea  suivants 
illustrent  la  mAthoda. 


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MADS 


ON  A  SHORT  TOUR, 


BETWEEN 


HABTFOBD   AND    QUEBEC, 


IN   THE 


AUTUMN  OF  1819 : 


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BY  THE  AUTHOR  OF  A  JOUBNAL  OF  TRAVELS  IN  KNGL 
HOLLAND  AND  SCOTLAND  . 


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NEW-HAVETi: 

PRINTED  AND  PUBLISHED  BY  S.   CON 


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1820. 


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DISTRICT  OF  CONNECTICUT,  ss. 

BE  IT  KEMEMBRRED,    That    Oil    tlic    twelfth 
.day  of  August,  in  the  forty-fifth  year  of  the  In- 
|iJ<;peiidenee  of  the  United    States  of  America, 
Brkjamin  SiLLiMAN,  of  the  said  District,  hath  de- 
posited tii»  this  Oflice  the  title  of  a  bool<,  the  right 
whereof  he  claims  as  Author,  in  the  words  following,  to  wit : — 

"  Remarks,  made  on  a  short  tour,  between  Hartford  and  Que- 
'<  bee.  in  the  Autumn  of  181i) :  hy  the  Author  of  a  Journal  of 
«  Travels  in  England,  Holland  and  Scotland." 

In  conformity  to  the  act  of  the  Congress  of  the  United  States, 
entitled,  "  An  Act  for  the  encouragement  of  learning,  by  securing 
the  copies  of  Mans,  Charts  and  Books,  to  the  authors  and  propri- 
etors of  such  Gopie!>}  during  the  times  therein  mentioned." 

CHAS.  A.  INGERSOLL, 
Ckrk  of  the  Ditlrict  of  Connecticut.. 

A  true  i^opy  of  Record,  eiarained  and  sealed  by  me, 

CHAS.  A.  INGERSOLL, 
Clerk  of  the  Ditlrict  of  Connecticut. 


■-¥,:■ 


t'^ 


(:         . 


•5  SB 


PREFACE. 


'\ 


DURING  the  excursion,  which  produced  this 
small  volume,  I  began,  with  an  intention  of  sketch- 
ing a  series,  of  short  articles,  in  some  degree  popur 
lar  and  general,  in  their  character,  and  still  oi  such 
a  cast,  as  would  admit  of  their  being  thrown  occa- 
sionally, into  the  American  Journal  of  Science. 

Before  the  close  of  the  journey,  these  remarks, 
although  written  hastily,  in  public  houses,  and  ii^>. 
steam-boats,  became  too  extensive  for  the  object 
first  intended.  «For  reasons,  with  which  it  is,  per- 
haps, unnecessary  to  trouble  the  reader,  it  has  smce 
been  thought  advisable  to  print  them,  after  due  re- 
vision, in  the  form  in  which  they  now  appear. 

The  geological  notices,  are,  with  few  exceptions, 
placed  under  distinct  heads,  and  may,  without  in- 
convenience, be  omitted,  by  those  to  whom  they 
are  uninteresting.  But,  the  geological  features  of  a 
country  being  permanent — being  intimately  con- 
nected with  its  scenery,  with  its  leading  interests,  >, 
and  even  with  the  very  character  of  its  population, 
have  a  fair  claim,  to  delineation,  in  the  c/bserva- 
tions  of  a  traveller  ;  and  this  course,  however  un- 
usual with  us,  is  now  co^tl^on  in  Europe.  I  regret, 
that  my  limited  time  did  not  admit  of  more  extend- 
ed and  complete  observations  of  this  nature,  and  I 
cannot  flatter  myself  that  they  are  always  free  from 
error. 

The  historical  remarks  and  citations  have  been 
the  more  extended,  from  an  impression,  that  less 
has  been  said  by  travellers  in  America,  than  might 
have  been  expected,  of  scenes  and  events,  which, 
to  Americans,  I  conceive,  must  ever  be  subjects 
of  the  deepest  interest. 


#.; 


4  PREFACC. 

„^he  friend,  in  whose  company  this  tour  was 
ninde,  having  been  in  the  habit,  when  traveUing,  of 
taking  hasty  outlines  of  interesting  portions  of  scene- 
ry, and  of  finishing  thorn  after  his  return,  did,  in  this 
instance,  the  same ;  and,  although  when  execu- 
ted, they  were  not  intended  for  oublication,  the 
drawings,  which  illustrate  some  01  the  scenes  in 
this  work,  were,  at  my  request,  furnished  by  him. 

The  engraver,  Mr.  S.  S.  Jocelyn,  of  New-Haven, 

a  young  man  of  twenty,  almost  entirely  telf'taught, 

evfflfees  talents,  deserving  of  encouragement,  and 

which  have  been  highly  spoken  of,  by  the  first  his- 

"liilorical  painter  in  this  country. 

This  little  accidental  work  does  not  assume  the 
dignity  of  a  book  of  travels ;  it  contains  no  adven- 
ture, and  claims  to  be  merely  a  series  of  remarks, 
and  of  statements  of  facts,  respecting  some  portions 
of  this  country,  and  of  a  neighbouring  province. 

BENJAMIN  SILUMAN. 

Yale  College,  August  llth,  18S0. 


«» 


■■*».■ 


ERIUTJ. 


A  few  errata,  wliich  (altbooghln  an  unimpoHant  manner,)  af- 
fect the  sense,  and  a  few  errors  vorthograpny,  had  been  noted, 
but,  the  Diemorandnoi  containing  them,  having  been  mislaid,  at 
too  advanced  a  stage  of  the  printing,  to  allow  time  for  a  reperusal 
of  the  book,  these  thirfgs  must  necessarily  go  uncorrected. 

The  only  error j^  fact,  whieh  I  have  discovered,  is,  that  we  ar- 
rived  at  Burlington/on  our  return^  at  evening,  instead  o(  morning  ; 
it  is,  however,  o/fio  nutment. 


&■ 


'm 


*  ■«» 


■>4i 


CONTENTS. 


PAINTS. 

Page. 

Quebec  from  Point  Levi,  (Vignette  on  tide  page) 

Description  of  this  print,       ...        249 
No.  1.  Monte  Video,  from  the  louth  rocic,  (frontispiece) 

2.  Approach  to  the  house,  facing  page         •         l6 
Description  of  No 's  1  and  2,        -         -  10 

3.  Lake  George,  from  the  village  of  Caldwell, 

(facing  page)        -        -        -        -         146 

4.  Lalce  George,  frora  fort  Geprge,  facing  page    148 
Description  of  No.'s  S  and  4,         -        -        147 

5.  Approach  to  Quebec  from  the  S.  W.  facing  pa.  210 
Description  of  No.  5,        -        •         -  209 

6.  Part  of  Quebec,  from  the  wharf,  facing  page    214 
Description  of  No.  6,        -        -        -  213 

y.  Falls  of  Montmorenci,  facing  page      -      -     2dO 
Description  of  No.  7y        -  -  -        228 

8.  Lumber  establishment  at  Montniorenci,  and 

bay  of  Quebec,  facing  page        •        «    2S^ 
Description  of  No.  8,         -         -         •         234 

9.  Quebec,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Chaudiere, 

facing  page  -        -         -         -        252 

Description  of  No.  9^        -         -         •  ib. 


% 


PRINCIPAL   TOPICS. 

Monte  Video,  near  (iHrtford ;  description  |^^^ scenery,  10 

Middle  region  of  Connecticut ;  its  scenery  iMpgeoIogy,  \T 

Primitive  country ;  its  oommeneement,        -        -  28 

Churches ;  zeal  for  building  them,        -        -    '/•  30 

American  Inns ;  peculiarities  in  their  manners,      -  32 

Ride  to  SandisTieid,        >         -        -        -      r  -      .  35 

Ride  to  Lenox,        -        -        -        -        -        -'      -  37 

Geology  between  Sandisfield  and  Lenox,        -        ■•  9^ 


i 


^  CONTENTS. 

Page. 

Lenox ;  sketch  of  the  place,        -        -        -        -  39 

Ride  to  New-Leb?inon,        -----  40 

Shakers;  their  villages,  peculiarities,  tenets,  &c.  41 

New-Lebanon ;  its  mineral  spring,         -         -         -  54 

its  scenery,         -        -        -        -  58 

Ride  to  Albany,        ------  62 

Geology  between  NewJ  *  banon  and  Albany,        -  63 

Albany;  sketch  of  ihe  place,         -                 -        -  65 
Hudson  river;  scenery  and  geology  ofits  banks  above 

•Albany,        -        -         -         -         -          -  Y3> 

Horse  ferry  bo<it ;  a  new  and  singular  one,        -  74 

Troy,  Lansingburgh,  and  Waterford,        -         -  76 

General  Burgoyne's  expedition,        -        -        -  73 

Stillwater ;  Swords'  house,         -         -        -  87 

The  battle  grouuif,            -            -            -  102 

General  Frazer's  grave,        -            -        -  113 

The  last  encampment,            -            -        -  1 18 

The  field  of  surrender,            -            -        -  121 

Reflections  and  remarks,            -'           -  124 

Stillwater  to  Sandy-Hill,            -            -  '          -  130 

Geology  between  those  places,            -            -  131 

Fort  Edward,            -            -              -            -  132 

Massacre  of  Miss  M'Crea,            -            -        -  134 

Sandy-Hill ;  massacre  there,             -   -^       '..  138 

Excursion  to  Lake  George,             -            -  140 

Glenn's  Falls,            -            -            -            -  141 

Lake  George ;  prospect  from  its  head,             -  143 

and  its  environs;  remarks  on  them,  149 

its  battles,             -             -             -  154 

Fort  William  Henry,              -              .  156 

The  bloody  pond,            -            -            -  I60 

Fort  William  Henry ;  the  massacre  theje,  ib. 

Fort  Anne  ;  battle  in  its  vicinity,            -            -  165 

Whitehall;  the  canal,              -            -            -  168 

Port ;  sketch  of  the  place,            -  1 70 

The  old  man,  of  the  Age  of  Louis  XIV.             -  172 

Lake  Champlain ;  passage  down,            -            -  179 

Ticonderoga,             -             -              -  183 

A  night  on  the  Lake,            -            .            -  186 

Morning  scenery ;  Plattsburgh,  &c.             -  187 

Entrance  into  Canada,            -            ^            -  ]  89 


OQNT£NTS. 


St.  Johns ;  and  departure  for  Montreal , 

Montreal;  first  glimpse  of  it, 

River  St.  Lawrence ;  passage  across  it, 

Montreal ;  first  impressioilB  of  the  place, 

A  public  bouse  ;  its  accointnodations, 

Guests;  their  manners,  -  •  - 

The  St.  Lawrence ;  evening  scenes  on  its  waters, 

day  scenes  on  its  waters,  and  on 
its  banks,  -  -  -  - 

Passage  to  Quebec,  -  -  -        - 

TownofSorel,  - 

Approach  to  Quebec, 
Entrance  into  Quebec, 

Canadian  Calash,  ... 

Beauport  and  Montmorenci ;    excursion    to   those 

places,  -  -  -  - 

Geology  between  Quebec  and  Montmorenci, 
Falls  of  Montmorenci,  -  -  - 

Saw-mills  and  lumber,  ^  -  - 

Quebec  and  its*environs ;  view  of  them  from  Bean- 
port,  -  -  -  -  ■        . 
Battle  of  Montmorenci, 
Falls  of  Chaudiere  ;  excursion  to  them. 
Projected  road  to  Maine,            -            -        *■ 
Quebec ;  night  view  of,  and  entrance  into  it, 

Plains  of  Abraham ;  death  of  Wolfe,  aod 

of  Montcalnuto      -  - 

Its  fortifications^  .v^^  ;.    - 
Geolc^ital  remarks,  v'-^*^ 

Death  of  General  Montgomery, 
General  Arnold's  party,    \  \*-^       -        -        - 
Castle  of  St  Louis,  and  de«#i  of  the  late  Duke  of 

Richmond,  -        -        - 

Greneral  Remarks  on  Quebec,        -.        -        - 
River  St  Lawrence,  -  -        .    ^ 

Steam-boats,  -  -  -  -        " 

Dangers  of  steam-boats,  -  -  - 

An  incident..  -  •  -      . 

Night  scene  on  the  river  St.  Lawrence,  -»*  ^  , 

Frederick  Purshjthe  botanist,  (Note)  -         '^ 

Montreal ;  th<i  mountain,  *  - 


7 

Page. 
191 
193 
194 
195 
196 
197 
198 


->>  « 


•a 


199 
201 
202 

207 
214 
218 

219 
222 
225 
230 

232 
236 
248 
257 
258 

259 
271 
278 
282 
287 

291 
300 
310 

^1^ 
317 
319 
322 

sn 

324 


■0 


*. 


» 


d 


CeNTJiNTS. 


Montreal ;  Geology  and  mioeralogy  of  its  environs, 
Mode  of  building, 
Beauty  of  its  environs, 
Race-course,  and  racing,  *     . 
Its  importance,  -  -        - 

Miscellaneous  remarks  upon  it, 
North- West  Company, 
Aborigines,        -- 
Ploughing  match,        -  - 

Agricultural  dinner,  -  .        . 

.   History,  &c.      ■     -  -  -        - 

Caution  to  strangers  in  Canada,  - 

Peculiar  mode  of  extracting  teeth,  - 

Catholic  worship,  -  .  .      >  . 

French  language,        -        .        ... 

Population;  maimers;  costume;   villages; 
political  situation,  &c. 
Departure  from  Canada,  -  - 

Plattsburgh  bay,        -        -        -     si^/<. 
Anecdotes,        -       ,  • 
Burlington  to  Hanover, 

Geology  and  mineralogy  from  Lake  Champlain, 
Hanover,        -        -        -        -        .        . 

Dartmouth  College,        .... 
Connecticut  river ;  ride  down  its  banks, 
GiBology,  -  -  - 

Bellows  Falls,        -        ... 
Geology  and  mineralogy,        ... 
Brattleborough,       -        >        -        .        . 
Geology,  &c.        -        -        .        .         . 
Grcfuficld,        -        -        -        - 
Deerfield,  and  other  towns,  to  Hartford, 


P«ge 

328 
930 
332 
333 
335 
341 
344 
346 
348 
349 
353 
356 

357 
358 
362 

363 
370 
374 
Zl^ 
380 
386 

387 
ib. 

389 
391 
392 
395 
396 
399 
401 
402 


I) 


it 


m 


-ik 


■■:M:f 


■:-k'..U'&^^ 


TOUR,  «5c. 


Remarks  made,  on  a  short  tour,  httween  Hmiford  and 
^  Quebec,  in  the  autumn  of  IS19' 

XVELAXATION  and  health,  and  the  gratification 
of  a  reasonable  curiosity,  were  our  immediate  mo- 
tives, for  undertaking  this  journey.  Quebec,  was 
our  ultimate  destination,  but,  we  were  not  disposed 
to  neglect  interesting  intervening  objects,  and  as  we 
were  unincumbered  by  business,  and  travelled  by 
ourselves,,  we  were  masters  in  a  good  degree,  of 
our  own  inovements. 

On  the  twenty^^rsit  day  of  September,  we  left 
Hartford  for  Albany.     A  blustering  equinoctis^,  had 
been  howling  for  two  days,  but  without  rain,  and,      * 
as  a  severe  drought  had  long  prevailed,  clouds  of 
dust  rose,  in  incessant  eddies,  and,  driving  before  a 
violent  wind,  filled  the  atmosphere,  and  enveloped 
every  object.     We  \yere  not  however  prevented  by 
the  storm  of  s&D^d  9nd  dust  irom  setting  out,  nor,  by;    I 
the  rain  which  .soon  followed,  from  proceedinf*'  ^ 
'^e  fine  turnpike  ap|^|rhich  we  commenced  our 
journey  was,  but  a  fe^'^ears  since,  a  most  ru|[^4^  ^ 
uQComfortable  road ;  iam  we  passed  it  wiii 


•h 


'% 


#'■ 


10        TOUR  BET W££N  HARTFOllD  AKD  (QUEBEC. 

and  rapidity,  scarcely  perceiving  its  beautiful  undu< 
lations,  which,  gradually  rising,  as  we  receded  from 
the  Connecticut  river,  brought  us,  within  little  more 
than  an  hour,  to  the  foot  of  Talcot  mountain. 

MONTE  VIDEO. 

After  constantly  ascending,  for  nearly  three  miles, 
we  reached  the  highest  ridge  of  the  mountain,  from 
which  a  steep  declivity  of  a  few  rods,  brought  us  to 
a  small  rude  plain,  terminated  at  a  short  distance, 
by  the  western  brow,  down  which  the  same  fine 
turnpike  road  is  continued.  From  this  plani,  the 
fraveller  who  wishes  to  visit  a  spot  called  Monte 
Video,  remarkable  for  the  extraordinary  beauty  of 
its  natural  scenery,  will  turn  directly  to  the  north,  in- 
to an  obscure  road,  cut  through  the  woods,  by  the 
proprietor  of  the  place  to  which  it  conducts.  The 
road  is  rough,  and  the  view  bounded  on  the  east,  by 
the  rid^o,  which,  in  many  places,  rises  in  perpen- 
diculai  ^^liffs,  to  more  than  one  hundred  feet  iabove 
the  general  surface  of  the  summit  of  the  mountain. 
On  the  west,  you  are  so  shut  in  by  trees,  that  it  is 
only  cyccasionally,  and  for  a  moment,  that  you  per- 
ceive there  is  a  valley  immediately  below  yo^> 
At  the  end  of  a  mile  and  an  half,  this  road  ter- 

^  ininQtes  at  a  tenant's  house,  built  in  the  Gothic  style, 
fmd  through  a  gate  of  the  time  tecription,  you  en- 
ter the  cultivated  part  of  tlnJMi  Very  singular  country 

'^  residence. 

Her#the  feene  to  immediatelj  ohuiged.  ^ 
trees  no  longer  intercept  your  view  upon  the  lift. 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  (^UliBEG.        1 1 


and  you  look  almost  perpendicularly,  into  a  V)ftl)ey 
of  extreme  beauty,  and  great  extent,  in  the  highest 
state  of  cultivation,  and  which  although  apparently 
within  reach,  is  six  hundred  and  forty  feet  helow  you. 
At  the  right,  the  ridge,  which  has,  until  now,  been 
your  boundary,  and  seemed  an  impassable  barrier, 
suddenly  breaks  off,  and  disappears,  but  rises^again 
at  the  distance  of  half  a  mile,  in  bold  grey  masses, 
to  the  height  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet, 
crowned  by  forest  trees,  above  which  appears  a  tow- 
er, of  the  same  colour  as  the  rocks.       ^  y 

The  space  or  hollow,  caused  by  the  absence  of 
the  ridge,  or  what  may  very  properly  be  called  the 
Ifock  hone  of  the  mountain,  is  occupH^d  by  a  deep 
lake,  of  the  purest  water,  nearly  half  a  mile  in  lengthy 
and  someWhat  less  than  half  that  width.  Directly 
before  you,  to  the  tiordi,  from  the  cottage  or  tenant's 
house  and  extending  half  a  mile,  is  a  scene  of  culti- 
vation, uninclosed,  and  interspersed  with  tree^,  in 
the  centre  of  which,  stands  the  house.  The^roui^d 
is  geAtly  undulating,  bounded  on  the  west  by  the 
precipice  which  overlooks  the  Farmington  valley, 
and  inclining  gently  to  the  east,  where  it  is  termina- 
ted b^  the  fine  margin  of  trees,  that  skirt  the  lake.*^  " 
Aftel  enttring  the  gate,  a  broad  foot-path,  leavii^ 
the  carriage  road,  passes  off  to  the  left,  and  is  ca|n* 
ed  along  the  western  brow  of  the  mountain,  tl^l 

^sing  the  house,  linitiieeaching  thei  northem  ex- 

lity  of  this  little  domain,  it  condiicta  you,  almost 

iii^reeptibly,  round  to  the  ibot  of  l^e^ftffit,  on 


-*  1* 


■'MW* 


■  ««r  .ui 


■'*',Vi 


ll 


4t. 


12      TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

which  the  Tower  stands.  It  then  gradually  pass- 
es down  to  the  north  extremity  of  the  lake,  where 
it  unites  with  other  paths,  at  a  white  picturesque 
building,  overshadowed  with  trees,  standing  on  the 
edg^  of  the  water,  commanding  a  view  of  the  whole 
of  it,  and  open  on  every  side,  during  the  warm 
weather,  forming  at  that  season,  a  delightful  sum- 
mer house,  and  in  the  winter,  being  closed,  it 
serves  as  a  shelter  for  the  boat.  There  is  also  an- 
other  path  which  beginning  at  the  gate,  but  leading 
in  a  contrary  direction,  and  passing  to  the  right,  con- 
ducts you  up  the  ridge,  to  what  is  now  the  summit 
of  the  south  rock,  whose  top  having  fallen  off,  lies 
scattered  in  ^iige  fragments,  and  massy  ruins,  around 
and  below  you. 

Prom  this  place  you  have  a  view  of  the  lake,  of 
the  boat  at  anchor  on  its  surface,  gay  with  its  stream- 
ers, and  snowy  awning :  of  the  white  building  at  the 
north  extremity  of  the  water,  and,  (rising  immedi- 
ately above  it,)  of  forest  trees,  and  bold  rocks,  in- 
termingled with  )each  other,  and  surmounted  by  the 
Tower.  , 

To  the  west,  the  lawn  rises  gradually  from  the  wa- 
ter, until  it  reaches  the  portico  of  the  house,  ,^ear 
the  brow  of  the  mountain,  beyond  which,  the  west- 
ern valley  is  again  seen. 

To  the  east  and  north,  the  eye  wanders  over  the 
great  valley  of  Connecti<^  river,  to  an  almost 
boundless  distance,  until  the  scene  fades  ^.v^gfy 
among  t||ft  blue  and  indistinct  mountains  of  Massti- 
chusctts.  ^  *. 


# 


W^' 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.   1^ 


The  carriage  road,  leaving  the  two  foot-paths, 
(just  describe<l,)  at  the  gate,  passes  the  cottage  and  its 
appendages,  inclining  at  first  down  towards  the  wa- 
ter, and  then  following  the  undulations  of  the  ground, 
where  the  ascent  is  the  easiest,  winds  gently  up  to 
the  flat  on  which  the  house  stands.  Along  this  road 
the  house,  the  tower,  the  lake,  &c.  occasionally  ap- 
pear and  disappear,  through  the  openings  in  the 
trees;  in  some  parts  of  it,  all  these  objects  are  shut 
from  your  view,  and  in  no  part  is  the  distant  view 
seen,  until  passing  through  the  last  group  of  shrub- 
bery near  the  house,  you  suddenly  find  yourself 
within  a  few  yards  of  the  brow  of  the  mountain,  and 
the  valley  with  all  its  distinct  minuteness,  immedi- 
ately below,  where  every  object  is  as  perfectly  visi- 
ble, as  if  placed  upon  a  map.  Through  the  whole  of 
this  lovely  scene,  which  appears  a  perfect  garden, 
the  Farmington  river  pursues  its  course,  sometimes 
sparkling  through  imbowering  trees,  then  stretching 
in  a  direct  line,  bordered  with  shrubbery,  blue,  and 
still,  like  a  clear  canal,  or  bending  in  graceful  sweeps, 
round  white  farm  houses,  or  through  meadows  of 
the  deepest  green. 

The  view  from  the  house  towards  the  east,  pre- 
sentTnothing  but  the  lake  at  the  foot  ofthe  lawn, 
bounded  on  the  north  and  south  by  lofty  cliffs,  and 
on  the  opposite  shore,  by  a  lower  barrier  of  rocks, 
intermixed  with  forest  trees,  from  amongst  which,  a» 
jroad  is  seen  to  issue,  passing  to  the  south  along  the 
hmk  of  the  water,  and  although  perfectlj^fe,  ap- 


11 


*»tg 


2* 


^: 


# 


14  TOVk  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  (|UBB£C. 

pears  to  form,  from  that  quarter,  a  dangerous  en- 
trance to  this  retired  spot. 

Every  thing  in  this  view,  is  calculated  to  make  an 
impression  of  the  most  entire  seclusion ;  for,  be- 
yond the  water,  and  the  open  ground  in  the  imme- 
diate neighbourhood  of  the  house,  rocks  and  forests 
alone  meet  the  eye,  and  appear  to  separate  you  from 
all  the  rest  of  the  world.    But  at  the  same  moment 
that  you  are  contemplating  this  picture  of  the  deep- 
est solitude,  you  may  without  leaving  your  place, 
merely  by  changing  your  position,  see  through  one 
of  the  long  Gothic  windows  of  the  same  room, 
which  reach  to  a  level  with  the  turf,  the  glowing 
western  valley,  one  vast  sheet  of  cultivation,  filled 
with  inhabitants,  and  so  near,  that  with  the  aid  only  of 
a  common  spy-glass,  you  distinguish  the  motions  of/ 
every  individual  who  is  abroad  in  the  neighbouring 
village,  even, to  the  frolicks  of  the  children,  and  the 
active  industry  of  the  domestic  fowls,  seeking  their 
food,  or  watching  over,   and  providing  for  their 
young.    And  from  the   same  window,  when  the 
morning   mist,  shrouding   the   world    below    and 
frequently   hiding  it  completely  from  view,  still 
leaves  the  summit  of  the  mountain  in  clear  sun- 
shine, you  may  hear  through  the  dense  medium, 
the  mingled  sounds,  occasioned  by  preparation  for 
the  rural  occupations  ofthe  day. 
*    From  the  boat  or  suiiin^r  bouse,  several  paths 
diverge ;  one  of  which,  leading  to  the  northeast,  af- 
ter passing  through  a  narrow  defile,  is  divided  mto 


''; 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  ^UEBftC.      15 

two  branches ;  the  first  passes  rouod  the  lake,  and 
generally  out  of  sight  of  it,  for  a  quarter  of  a  mile, 
until  descending  a  very  steep  bank,  through  a  grove 
of  evergreens,  so  dark  as  to  be  almost  impervious  to 
the  rays  of  the  sun,  even  at  noon  day,  it  brings  you 
suddenly  and  unexpectedly,  out,  upon  the  east- 
ern margin  of  the  water,  into  the  same  road 
which  was  seen  from  the  opposite  side,  and  from 
thence  along  it,  to  the  cottage,  beyond  the  foot 
of  the  south  rock.  The  other  branch  of  the  path, 
after  leaving  the  defile,  passes  to  the  east  side  of  the 
northern  ridge,  and  thence  you  ascend  through  the 
woods,  to  its  summit,  where  it  terminates  at  the 
Tower,  standing  within  a  few  rods  of  the  edge  of  the 
precipice.  The  tower  is  a  hexagon,  of  sixteen  feet 
.diiameter,  apd  fifty  five  feet  high;  the  ascent,  of  about 
eighty  steps,  on  the  inside,  is  easy,  and  from  the 
top  which  is  nine  hundred  and  sixty  feet  above  the 
level  of  Connecticut  river,  you  have  at  one  view,  all 
those  objects  which  have  been  seen  separately  from 
the  different  stations  below.  The  diameter  of  the 
view  in  two  directions,  is  more  than  ninety  miles, 
extending  into  the  neighbouring  states  of  Massachu- 
setts and  New-York,  and  comprising  the  spires  of 
more  than  thirty  of  the  nearest  towns  and  villages. 
The  little  spot  of  cultivation  surrounding  the  house, 
and  the  lake  at  your  feet,  with  its  picturesque  ap* 
pendagls  of  boat,  winding  paths,  and  Gothic  build-, 
ings,  shut  in  by  rooks  and  forests,  compose  the  fore- 
ground of  this  grand  Panorama.  ^ 


':*•;■■ 


j^-     '^'* 


\h 


IQ   TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


V' 


.!'■      f^ 


■-««. 


,*: 


On  the  western  side,  the  Farmington  valley  ap- 
pearS|  in  still  greater  beauty  than  even  from  the  low- 
er brow,  and  is  seen  to  a  greater  extent,  presenting 
many  objects  which  were  not  visible  from  any  other 
quarter.  On  the  east,  is  spread  before  you,  the 
great  plain  through  which  the  Connecticut  river 
winds  its  course,  and  upon  the  borders  of  which  the 
towns  and  villages  are  traced  for  more  than  forty 
miles.  The  most  considerable  place  within  sight, 
is  Hartford,  where,  although  at  the  distance  of  eight 
miles  in  a  direct  line,  you  see,  with  the  aid  of  a 
glass,  the  carriages  passing  at  the  intersection  of  the 
streets,  and  distinctly  trace  the  motion  and  position 
of  the  vessels,  as  they  appear,  and  vanish,  upon  the 
river,  whose  broad  sweeps  are  seen  like  a  succession 
of  lakes,  extending  through  the  valley.  The  whole 
of  this  magnificent  picture,  including  in  its  vast  ex- 
tent, cultivated  plains  and  rugged  mountains,  rivers, 
towns,  and  villages,  is  encircled  by  a  distant  outline 
of  blue  mountains,  rising  in  shapes  of  endless  vari- 
ety.. 

The  annexed  prints,  Nos.  1  and  2,  will  give  some 
ocular  illustrations  of  the  scenery  on  the  top  of  the 
mountain.  They  exhibit  different  views  of  the 
take,  the  cultivated  lawn,  the  buildings,  the  sur- 
rounding forest,  and  rocky  pinnacles  and  tower; 
but  still,  it  must  be  remembered,  that  they  give  only 
some  parts  of  the  scene  on  the  tof  of  the  mountain, 
without  CQnveying  any  adequate  idea,  of  the  altitude 


It- 


fM^ 


V    V**' 


'ii'. 


■'•'~**<l^' 


tr^' 


I    • 


*•',. 


On  tho  western  si'le,  the  Fnnuinjjiton  VHllcy*  npN** 
pears,  in  "still  groytftr  hcanty  than  t ;vv»»  iVotn  tli^  Ifa^DMk, 
er  l»ro.w,  nud  i«  seen  to  « |Teater  <  vt.'nt.  prissenilti^ 
niauy  objocts  wjiioh  were  nor  vi-lble  from  any  other 
ijUj'rUir.  On  t^i'  cast,  is  s?p:(iud  before  yf)u,  th*' 
^reat  plain  tluuu^  which  ihti  Connecticut  river 
windR  its  co'irso,  and  upon  \b'*  bord'Tis  of  which  the 
toi*fts  an.fl  vi!ia«;e.'j  are  traced  for  mor«  tit.in  lorty 
miles*  Tbe  most  con.-iid|rflblft  phice  vvlihin  sight, 
U  Hftrffordi^phero,  althoiijfi  at  the  distance  of  ei^ht 
miles  ill  a  direct  line,  you  see,  with  tho  aid  of  a 
|;faSs,  the  cainae;es  passing  at  the  intersection  oftliu 
Sheets,  and  dfct.inctly  trac«  tho  motion  and  position 
of  the  v(;3<rej.i,  a»^  ihcy  apponr,  and  vanish,  upon  the 
r|j^cr,  whose  brond  svMieps  are  seen  lil<c  a  succession 
ttf  Jakes,  exteiwling  through  the  valley.  The  whole 
of  tills  magaificent  picture,  including  in  its  vast  ex*' 
V  Jeiit,  crdiivated  plains  and  rugged  mouulains.  rivers, 
*"iovpr?g,  atn\  villages,  is  enciuded  by  a  distant  outline 
of  blue  niountainSj  rising  in  shapes  of  endless  vari- 


,<, 


The  annexed  prints,  Nos,  1  and  2,  will  give  soma 
ocular  illustrations  oi  tin;  scenery  on  the  top  iif  the: 
monntaln.  They  exhibit  drfferem  vi«  us  of  tho 
kke,  the  'cultivated  lawn,  the  hyildings,  the  snr^ 
rounding  tor«^|,  and  rocky  pinn«cles^  and.  tower"! 
but  siill,  it  must  he  remewbered,  ih<it  A»y  glfe  6nly  , 
some  parte  of  the  scene  on  the  ^  of  th«  ifisouiuai!!/ 
wkho».it  <*qj»yeyii)^  any  adequato^i(.feik#,ofd^e^^|||Si#  ': 


•■%■■ 


■5'»» 


"(ie- 


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TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD 


^UEIB^^'  It 


of  the  place,  and  scarcely  a  glimpse  of  the  remote 
scenery.  Indeed,  the  full  illustration  of  the  beauties 
of  this  mountain,  would  require  a  port  folio  of  views, 
and  would  fo;rm  a  fine  subject  for  the  pencil  of  a 

master.  ' 

As  the  beauty  and  grandeur  of  this  place  depend 
principally  upon  certain  general  facts  relative  to  the 
geological  structure  and  consequent  scenery  of  the 
middle  region  of  Connecticut,  it  may  not  be  amiss  ^^ 
to  sketch  in  a  very  general  way  what  I  believe  has^ 
been  nowhere  sketched  at  all. 


Af 


M 


Scenery  and  Geology  of  the  Middle  Region  of  Con- 

necticuL 

Among  the  objects  which  most  powerfully  arrest 
the  attention  of  a  traveller,  natural  scenery  gene- 
rally occupies  a  distinguished  place.  No  person, 
however  heedless  in  observation,  or  torpid  in  feel-'^"%. 
ing,  can  fail  to  experience  some  degree  of  interest  '■- 
in  the  features  drawn  upon  the  face  of  the  earth  by 
the  hand  of  the  Almighty,  or  to  preserve  some 
recollections  of  them.  Even  those  whose  views 
rise. not  above  their  immediate  occupations,  an<l 
who  contemplate  the  earth  only  as  a  place  on  which 
they  may  live  and  act,  and  as  a  reservoir  from  which 


'iSJ^: 


m: 


m^ 


M 


f.-A 


18  ^^Ol^  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  q,X7EBEC. 


■-%*' 


emolument  may  flow,  are  still  attentive  to  deep 
sands  and  rocky  defiles,  to  dangerous  bogs  and 
marshes,  and  to  mountain  chains,  when  they  defeat 
or  enhance  the  toils  of  cultivation,  or  oppose  for- 
midable obstacles  to  travelling.  National  character 
often  receives  its  peculiar  cast  from  natural  scenery. 
The  hardy  mountaineer,  at  least  in  th«  early  stages 
of  society,  instinctively  despises  and  easily  subdues 
the  soft  inhabitant  of  rich  alluvial  plains ;  and  the 
peculiar  characteristics  of  the  Scotch  Highlander, 
^of  the  Bedouin  Arab,  and  of  the  Hindu,  are  derived 
as  much  from  the  mountains,  the  sandy  deserts,  and 
the  luxuriant  vallies  and  plains,  which  they  res- 
pectively inhabit,  as  from  other  causes.  Natural 
scenery  therefore  is  always  worthy  of  observation^ 
and  it  will  be  a  never-failing  source  of  delight  to 
those,  who,  though  perhaps  not  themselves  painters 
or  poets,  participate  in  any  degree  in  their  faculties 
tftid  perceptions ;  and  find  in  mountains,  plains,  and 
vallies — in  streams,  lakes,  and  woods — in  cataracts 
and  caverns — in  cultivated  regions,  and  in  untamed 
solitudes — in  narrow  defiles,  and  in  the  boundless 
horizon,  ever  varying  sources  of  pleasure,  and  inex- 
#haustible  topics  of  admiration  and  praise. 

Neither  should  it  be  forgotten,  that  the  peculiar 
features  of  every  landscape  are  not  fortuitous.  The 
nature  of  the  rocks,  which,  more  or  less  prominent, 
or  buried  at  a  greater  or  less  depth,  form  the  firm 
substrjKtum  of  every  country,  determines  also  the 
lineaments  of  the  surface ;  and  although  the  Arab  of 


•^m* 


K>  deep 
^gs  and 
defeat 
se  for- 
aracter 
enery, 
stages 
bdues 
nd  the 
ander, 

erived 
>and 

b"  res- 

[atural 

^ation, 

;ht  to 

inters 

uJties 

»and 

racts 

med 

iless 

lex- 

iliar 

Vhe 

Jnt, 

rm 

:he 

of 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HAaifOIUD  lfU>  QUEBEC.       19 

the  desert,  while  he  looks  over  his  boundless  ocean 
of  sand,  and  the  Norwegian,  whiie  he  climbs  his 
snovry  mountains,  is  unconscious  of  this  truth,  it  is 
still  an  acquisition  to  every  intelligent  mind. 

Thus,  natural  scenery  is  intimately  connected 
with  taste,  moral  feeling,  utility,  an  instruction. 

Ill  no  country  perhaps,  is  it  more  varied  than  in 
North  America,  and  it  constantly  bears  a  close  rela- 
tion to  the  geological  structure  of  the  different  re- 
gions. Even  in  so  limhed  a  country  as  Connecti- 
cut, there  are  features  so  widely  different,  as  hardly 
to  escape  the  observation  of  the  most  negligent  trav- 
eller. The  greater  part  of  this  state  being  compos- 
ed of  primitive  formations,  exhibits  the  usual  aspect 
of  such  countries,  and  is,  with  few  exceptions,  (and 
those  relating  principally  to  the  alluvion  of  rivers 
and  of  the  sea  shore,)  hilly  or  mountainous. 

In  most  parts  of  Connecticut,  the  traveller  passes 
a  succession  of  hills  and  hollows,  bounded  by  laige 
curves,  sometimes  sinking  deep  and  rising  high,  so 
as  to  create  great  inequality  of  surface — ascents  and 
descents  frequently  arduous  ;  but  rarely,  except  at 
fissures  and  chasms,  exhibiting  high  naked  preci- 
pices of  rock. 

But,  the  hills  and  mountains  are  not  all  similar  in 
their  outline,  and,  in  one  region  in  particular,  thiB 
physiognomy  of  the  country  is  very  peculiar. 

At  New-Haven,  commences  the  region  of  se- 
condary trap  or  greenstone,  referred  to  above.    It 

completely  intersects  the  state,  and  the  state  of 

my 

S 

I  .  f  _    ■ 


W 


:.  -.m 


f:* 


i; 


1.   ii 


m 


H>  '*  '' 


20  '   TObR  BETwJIn  UARTFOIiD  AND  (iUl.it]<IC. 

Massachusetts,  like  a  belt,  and  even  passes  to  the 
confines  of  the  slates  of  Vermont  and  New-Hanip- 
«bire. 

Through  the  whole  extent  of  this  district,  as  in  a 
great  valley  among  the  ridges,  the  Connecticut  river 
flows,  except  below  Middletown,  near  which  the 
river  passes  through  a  barrier  of  primitive  country, 
which  continues  uninterruptedly  to  the  ocean,  a 
distance  of  twenty-five  or  thirty  miles. 

In  the  mean  time,  the  trap  region  passes  off  in  a 
^  direction  south-westerly,  and  obliquely,  with  respect 
to  the  Connecticut  river,  and  to  the  sea  coast :  it  in- 
tersects parts  of  Durham,  Guilford,  and  Branford,  and 
unites  again  with  the  primitive  in  East-Haven,  on  the 
eastern  side  of  New-Haven  harbour.  There,  near 
the  light-house,  granite  ledges  are  found  contiguous 

to,  although  not,  (as  yet,)  in  absolute  contact  with  the 
trap*.)  . 

liThe  other  boundaries  of  this  region  of  second- 
ary trap  or  greenstone,  (as  it  is  more  frequently 
called,)  may  be  thus  stated,  with  sufficient  accuracy. 
The  primitive  forms  the  western  termination  of 
New-Haven  harbour,  and  proceeding  northerly, 
^through  pirts  of  the  towns  of  Woodbridge,  Chesh- 
ire, Wolcott,  Bristol,  Burlington,  Cantot^  and  Gran- 
b^,  crosses  into  Massachusetts  by  South-Hampton^ 
Northampton,  Hatfield,  Deerfield,  Greenfield,  and 
Bernardston,  and  terminates  very  nearly  at  the  Ver- 
mont line.  Ileturning,  on  the  eastern  side,  thin  re- 
gion is  bounded  by  parts  of  Northfield,  Montague, 


^w 


TOUR  BETWEEN  UAJ^TFOHD  AND  QUEBEC.      21 


Leveret,  Pelham,  Belchertown,  Granby,  &c.  and 
passing  into  Connecticut  at  Somers — it  is  bounded 
by  parts  of  Ellington,  Vernon,  Bolton,  Glastenbury, 
and  Chatham  :  at  this  latter  place  it  again  strikes 
the  Connecticut  river  a  little  below  Middletovvn, 
where  this  sketch  commenced.* 

This  region  is  more  than  one  hundred  miles  long, 
and  varies  in  breadth  from  three  miles  to  twenty- 
five.  Its  basis  is  composed  of  stratified  rocks,  in- 
clined to  the  east  generally  at  a  small  angle  to  the 
horizon ;  sand  stone  is  the  most  conspicuous  of 
these  rooks,  and  it  has  every  variety,  from  very 
fine  grained,  to  coarse ;  sometimes  the  rock  is  a 
breccia  or  a  pudding  stone  or  a  mere  conglomerate. 
Generally,  beneath  the  sand  stone  we  find  varieties 
of  slaty  rocks,  sometimes  impressed  with  vegetables 
and  fish,  and  containing  small  veins  of  jet  and  coal. 

The  most  conspicuous  feature  of  this  region  is 
composed  of  the  fine  ridges  of  greenstone  trap, 
which  pervade  it,  generally  in  the  direction  of  its 
length,  and  reach  from  the  sea  shore  at  New-Haven, 
with  little  interruption,  to  Greenfield  and  Gill,  in  the 
northern  part  of  Massachusetts. 

These  ridges  of  greenstone  repose  almost  univer- 
sally upon  sand  stone,f  and  as  this  rock  is  by  the 


# 


*:i 


-A  m 


*  I  am  indebted  to  Mr.  Hitchcock's  geological  n*|p  (see  Amer. 
Jour,  of  Science,  vol.  1,  p.  109,)  for  u  part  of  these  Uoundaries. 

t  The  only  exceptions  that  I  am  acquainted  with,  are  those 
mcqlioQed  by  Mr.  Hitchcock.in  the  Americaa  Joun|sl  of  Science, 
vol.  1,  p.  109. 

3 


1^. 


*,*■. 


*^ 


■|:l 


IH 


■      ^•A. 
22       TOUR  B£T\V££fN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

consent  of  all)  regarded  as  a  secondary  formation, 
proceeding  from  the  ruins  of  other  rocks,  it  follows, 
of  course,  that  whatever  rock  reposes  upon  it,  must 
also  be  secondary.  Hence,  these  greenstone  ranges 
are  called  secondary.  The  rock  is  called  green- 
stone, from  its  having,  generally,  a  dark  bottle  green 
colour,  and  trap,  from  its  being  often  in  the  form  of 
steps  or  stairs — the  word  trap,  in  the  Swedish  lan- 
guage, from  which  it  is  derived,  having  this  signifi- 
cation. The  constituents  of  the  greenstone  trap 
are,  generally,  the  mineral  called  hornblende,  for 
its  basis,  with  feldspar  intimately  blended,  some- 
times visibly  and  sometimes  in  distinct  crystals. — 
This  rock  is  not  hard,  but  it  is  very  difficult  to  break 
^*^is  sonorous — endures  the  weather  very  well,  and 
forms  an  excellent  material  for  building. 

But  the  most  striking  circumstance  to  a  traveller, 
is,  the  peculiar  physiognomy  imparted  to  this  re- 
gion, by  the  rocks  of  which  we  are  speaking.  Gen- 
erally, throughout  the  disti'ict  whose  boundaries 
have  been  sketched,  the  greenstone  mountains  rise 
in  bold  ridges — stretching  often,  league  after  league, 
in  a  continued  line — or  w  ith  occasional  interruptions 
— or  in  parallel  lines — or  in  spurs  and  branches. 
One  front,  (and  generally  it  is  that  which  looks  west- 
erly,) is  in  most  instances,  composed  o^  precipitous 
cliffs,  of  naked  frowning  rock,  hoary  with  time, 
inoss-grown,  and  tarnished  by  a  superficial  decom- 
position. This  front  is  a  pferfect  barrier,  looking  like 
an  immense  work  of  art,  iitipassable  in  most  places, 


,as. 


^"^^ 


■■»:. 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.   23 


composed  frequently  of  ill-formed  pillars*  standing, 
side  by  side,  and  receding  one  behind  another,  at  dif- 
ferent elevations,  like  xude  stairs.  These  pillars  ter- 
minate, at  last,  in  a  regular  ridge,  well  define()  like 
the  top  of  a  parapet,  and  crowned  with  trees,  which  at 
the  elevation  of  from  two  or  three,  to  seven  or  eight 
hundred  feet,  form  a  beautiful  verdant  fringe,  often 
of  evergreens,  which  is  finely  contrasted  with  the 
rocky  barrier  below.  Although  this  is  the  general 
form  of  these  hills,  some  of  them  are  conical,  or,  of 
irregular  shapes  ;  but,  the  barrier-form  is  so  com- 
mon, that  in  many  parts  of  this  district,  the  country 
seems  divided  by  stupendous  walls,  and  the  eye 
ranges  along,  league  after  league,  without  perceiving 
an  avenue,  or  a  place  of  egress.  *■' 

Most  of  the  ridges  are  parallel,  and  it  is  when 
travelling  at  their  feet,  that  one  is  most  forcibly 
struck  with  their  castellated  appearance.  In  some 
parts  of  the  district  it  is  impracticable  for  many 
miles,  to  6nd  a  passage  for  a  road,  or  for  a  stream  ; 
and  both,  when  they  cross  the  direction  of  the  ridg- 
es, are  wound  through  narrow  rocky  defiles,  often 
singularly  picturesque  and  wild,  with  their  lofty  im- 
pending cliffs,  and  with  their  fallen  ruins.  Indeed, 
the  immense  masses  of  ruins  which,  both  in  this  dis- 
trict, and  in  the  similar  districts  of  other  countries, 
are  collected  at  the  feet  of  the  green  stone  ridges, 

*  In  some  places,  as  on  the  front  of  naount  Holyoke  near  North- 
ampton, they  are  regular  pillars,  like  those  of  the  giant's  cause- 
way, 


4m 


!      If' 


Vll 


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&< 


M' 


^J^<.iii 


•t&-1<  lT,r 


»' 


24       TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  ^UIBEC. 

form  a  very  striking  object.  Often  they  slope,  with 
a  very  sharp  acclivity,  half,  or  two  thirds  of  the  way 
up  the  mountain,  and  terminate  only  at  the  rocky 
barrier ;  the  ruins  are  composed  of  masses  of  every 
size,  from  that  of  a  pebble,  which  may  be  thrown 
at  a  bird,  to  entire  cliffs  and  pillars,  of  many  tons 
weight,  which,  from  time  to  time,  fall,  with  fearful 
concussion,  into  the  vallies.  This  kind  of  rocky 
avalanche  is  so  common  among  the  green  stone 
mountains,  that  it  is  often  heard,  and  sometimes,  in 
the  stillness  of  night,  by  those  who  live  in  the  vicin- 
ity. 

The  cause  is  obvious.  The  greenstone  rocks 
are  often  composed  of  contiguous,  separate,  pillars 
%r  portions,  connected  only  by  juxta  position,  and 
severed  by  fissures,  both  vertical  and  horizontal ; 
into  the  former,  the  rain  and  snow  water  filters ; 
and  when  it  freezes,  the  rocks  are,  by  the  well 
known  and  irresistible  expansion  of  the  congealing 
water,  strained  asunder,  and  whenever,, either  by 
the  gradual  undermining,  produced  by  the  weather, 
or  by  the  stnne  diggers,  vfho  fearlessly  work  under 
the  impending  cliffs,  th^jr  centre  of  gravity  ceases  to 
be  supported,  they  come  thundering  down,  like  the 
alpine  glaciers,  and  strew  their  ruins  beneath. 

The  two  bluffs  at  New-Haven,  called  the  East 
and  the  West  Rock,  have  be©Ds  {especially  the  for- 
mer.) in  a  great  measure  despoiled  of  their  ruins, 
and,  to  some  extent,  even  of  their  columns,  in  order 
to  supply  the  demands  of  architecture  ;  but  in  most 


m 


'j»'%* 


% 


TOUB  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AN1>  QUEBEC.       25 

parts  of  the  greenstone  region  of  Connecticut  and 
Massachusetts,  the  venerable  piles  are  undisturbed, 
and  the  hoary  columns,  tempest-beaten  for  ages, 
stand,  the  durable  monuments  of  other  times. 

On  the  side  of  the  greenstone  ranges,  opposite 
to  that  which  presents  t^mural  front,  there  is  gene- 
rally a  gradual  slope  ;  often  not  of  difficult  ascent, 
and  covered  with  trees  and  verdure,  so  that  a  trav- 
eller coming  first  upon  the  front,  or  the  rear,  would, 
if  unaccustomed  to  such  mountains,  have  no  correct 
idea  of  the  opposite  side. 

Such  are  the  outlines  of  the  scenery,  and  of  the 
rocks  upon  which  it  depends,  in  the  middle  region 
of  Connecticut. 

It  enables  us  to  understand  the  peculiarities  of 
the  beautiful  and  grand  scenery  of  Montevideo, 
which  makes  this  villa,  with  its  surrounding  ob- 
jects, quite  without  a  parallel  in  America,  and  prob- 
ably with  few  in  the  world. 

To  advert  again,  briefly,  to  a  few  of  its  leading  per 
Guliarities.  It  stands  upon  the  very  top  of  one  of  the 
highest  of  the  green  stone  ridges  of  Connecticut,  at 
an  elevation  of  more  than  one  thousand  two  hundred 
feet  above  the  sea,  and  of  nearly  seven  hundred 
above  the  contiguous  valley.  The  villa  is  almost 
upon  the  brow  of  the  precipice ;  and  a  traveller  in 
the  Farmington  valley,  sees  it,  a  solitary  tenement, 
and  in  a  place  apparently  both  comfortless  and  inac- 
cessible, standing  upon  the  giddy  summit,  ready,  he 
would  almost  imagine,  to  be  swept  away  by  th« 

3* 


11 


^^v 


Sik, 


26       TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  <IUEBEC. 

first  blast  from  the  mountain.  The  beautiful  crys- 
tal lake  is  on  the  top  of  the  same  lofty  greenstone 
ridge,  and  within  a  few  yards  of  the  house  ;  it  pours 
its  superfluous  waters  in  a  limpid  stream,  down  the 
mountain's  side,  and  affords  in  winter,  the  most  pel- 
lucid ice  that  can  be  imagined.  Arrived  on  the  top 
of  the  mountain,  and  confining  his  attention  to'  the 
scene  at  his  feet,  the  traveller  scarcely  realizes  thai 
he  is  elevated  above  the  common  surface.  The 
luke,  the  Gothic  villa,  farm  house  and  cOices,  the 
gardens,  orchards,  and  serpentine  walks,  conducting 
the  stranger  through  all  the  varieties  of  mountain 
shade,  and  to  the  most  interesting  points  of  view, 
indicate  a  beautiful  but  peaceful  scene  ;  but,  if  he 
lift  his  eyes,  he  sees  still  above  him,  on  the  north, 
bold  precipices  of  naked  rock,  f.owning  like  ancient 
battlements,  and  on  one  of  the  highest  peaks,  the 
tall  tower,  rising  above  the  trees,  and  bidding  defi- 
ance to  the  storms.  If  he  ascend  to  its  top,  he 
p$)ntemplates  an  extent  of  country  that  might  con- 
i9^itute  a  kingdom — populous  and  beautiful,  with  vil- 
lages, turrets  and  towns ;  at  one  time,  he  sees  the 
massy  magnificence  of  condensed  vapour,  which  re- 
poses, in  a  vast  extent  of  fog  and  mist,  on  the 
Farmington  and  Connecticut  rivers,  and  defines, 
with  perfect  exactness,  all  their  windings;  at  anoth- 
er, the  clouds  roll  below  him,  in  wild  grandeur, 
through  the  contiguous  valley,  and,  should  a  thun- 
derstorm occur  at  evening,  (an  incident  which  eve- 
ry season  presents,)  he  would  view  with  delight, 


?■  •^' 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARXrORD  AND  QUEBEC.   27 

ehastcued  by  awe,  the  illuminated  hills,  and  corres- 
ponding hollows,  which  every  where,  till  tlie  great 
vale  west  of  the  Talcot  Mountain,  and  alternately 
appear  and  disappear  with  the  flashes  of  lightning. 

Descending  this  mountain  to  the  west,  the  travel- 
ler is  powerfully  struck  whh  the  view  of  the  enor- 
mous masses  of  greenstone  rock,  which  lie  in  con- 
fusion upon  the  slope  of  the  mountain.  They  are 
the  largest  masses  of  this  kind  of  rock,  that  I  have 
any  where  seen.  One  of  them  is  tweRty-five  feet 
in  diameter.  They  lie  in  every  form  of  disorder — 
alone,  or  piled  one  on  another,  and  plainly  evin<;^g, 
agreeably  to  the  general  fact  in  every  country, 
where  greenstone  mountains  abound,  that  they, 
more  than  almost  any  other,  cover  their  decliv- 
ities with  fallen  ruins ;  that  in  some  period  of  anti- 
quity, the  contiguous  ridges  were  vastly  more  ele- 
vated than  at  present,  and  that  these  dissevered 
masses,  cleaving  off  from  the  ridges  to  which  they 
were  attached,  were  precipitated  with  irresistible 
violence,  down  the  side  of  the  mountain,  till  they 
found  a  resting  place  in  solitudes,  then  trod  only  by 
the  wild  beasts,  or  by  the  savage  aboriginals. 

Alluvial  country  succeeds  to  the  Talcot  mountain, 
and  for  miles,  we  pass  over  gentle  undulations  aboun- 
ding with  water-worn  pebles. 

The  red  sand  stone  which  every  where  in  Con- 
necticut, as  well  as  in  many  other  countries,  forms 
the  basis  of  the  greenstone  mountains,  makes  its 
appearance  in  various  places,  and  constitutes,  along 


:¥ 


*»       • 


28       TOUR  BF,TW£EN  HARTFORD  AND  (QUEBEC. 

with  this  species  of  trap,  the  most  common  building 
stone  of  the^ountry. 


COMMENCEMENT  OF  THE  PRIMITIVE  COUNTRT. 

At  the  distance  of  thirteen  miles  from  Hartford, 
we  crossed  the  first  ridge  of  gneiss.  This  was  a  part 
of  the  great  barrier  of  primitive  rocks  wiiich  as  I 
have  already  stated,  bounds  the  secondary  region  of 
Connecticut'on  the  west,  and  in  a  moment,  changes 
both  the  geology  and  the  picturesque  features  of  the 
coiiitry. 

k  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  the  primitive  coun- 
try, on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Connecticut  river, 
comes  in  at  nearly  the  same  distance  from  Hartford 
as  on  the  western  side.  As  we  ascend  the  Bolton 
hill,  going  towards  Norwich,  we  come  to  the  primi- 
tive rocks,  which  there,  are  mica  slate,  filled  with 
garnets  and  staurotide.  I  suppose  these  two  bounda- 
ries of  the  primitive,  are  therefore  about  twenty-five 
miles  apart.  Generally,  the  boundary  of  primitive 
which  limits  the  great  secondary  green  stone  region 
of  Connecticut  already  described,  is  distinguished 
by  the  contour  of  the  hills,  which  is  rounded,  and 
they  are  commonly  of  greater  elevation  tlian  the 
ridges  of  trap  or  greenstone.  Thus  it  is  impos- 
sible, for  a  traveller  to  go  through  the  length  of  | 
Connecticut,  without  traversing  its  secondary  green- 
stone region.  As  he  descends  from  the  high 
rounded    primitive   hills,   on  either  side,  be  will  I 


'^M 


TOUR  6KTWEKN  HARTFORD  AND  <iUEB£C.       2^ 


be  Struck  with  the  distinct  ridges  of  greenstone 
rock,  and  with  the  long  and  often  narrow  vallies 
between  them.     Mount  Holyoke  and  mount  Tom 
near  Northampton  and  the  blue  hills  of  Meriden,  are 
parts  of  these  greenstone  mountains.    The  State's 
I  prison  of  Connecticut,  or  Newgate^'is  in  one  of  these 
[ranges,  or  rather  in  the  sand  stone  which  lies  under 
it,  and  from  this  prison  to  New-Haven  a  distance  of 
fifty  or  sixty  miles,  one  rides  almost  at  the  foot  of  a 
nearly  uninterrupted  barrier  of  greenstone,  frequent- 
lly  from  four  to  seven  or  eight  hundred  feet  high.    It 
lis  amusing  to  observe  how  immediately  the  materi- 
lals  of  the  fences  and  of  the  buildings,  as  far  as  they 
tare  constructed  of  stdne,  change  as  soon  as  the  geol- 
logy  of  the  country  changes.     For  some  miles,  after 
/e  left  the  Talcot  mountain,  the  materials  of  these 
[structures  continued  to  be  fragments  of  greenstone 
ind  of  sand  stone ;  but,  as  soon  as  we  crossed  the 
line  of  the  primitive,  these  stones  disappeared,  and 
gneiss  and  other  primitive  rocks  began  to  exhibit 
themselves  in  the  houses  and  fences.    Thus,  these 
structures  become  in  some  measure,  cabinets  of  the 
geology  of  a  country,  for,  the  people  will  of  course 
sollect  those  stones  for  use,  which  are  most  preva- 
lent, and  in  many  instaniies,  they  will  be  loose  frag- 
lents  of  the  most  prevailing  rocks;  or,  if  the  stones 
)e  obtained  by  quarrying,  then  tliey  become  still 
surer  criteria  of  the  nature  of  the  country. 


fi 


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"30   TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


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ZEAL  FOR  CHURCHES. 

In  the  valley  of  Northington  we  passed  a  beauti- 
ful new  meeting  house.  It  is  a  handsome  specimen 
of  architecture,  and  is  one  of  three  places  of  public 
worship,  recently  erected  in  this  Httle  parish,  which, 
a  short  time  since,  had  only  one  miserable  ruinous 
house,  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  forest. 

I  once  attended  public  worship  there  on  a  pleas- 
ant but  warm  summer  sabbath.     The  house  was  al- 
most embowered  in   ancient  forest  trees;  it  was 
smaller  than  many  private   dwelling  houses— was 
much  dilapidated  by  time,  which  had  furrowed  the 
grey  unpainted  shingles  and  clapboards,  with  many 
water-worn  channels,  and  it  seemed  as  if  it  would  | 
soon  fall.     It  was  an  interesting  remnant  of  prime- 
val New-England  manners.     The  people,  evidently  | 
agricultural,  had  scarcely  departed  from  the  simpli- 
city of  our  early  rural  habits;  the  men  were  not! 
parading   in   foreign   broadcloth,   nor  the   women  { 
flaunting  in  foreign  silks  and  muslins ;  but  they  ap- 
peared in  domestic  fabrics,  and  both  men  and  wO' 
men  were  dressed  with  simplicity.     I  do  not  meanl 
that  there  were  no  exceptions,  but  this  was  the  general 
aspect  of  the  congregation,  and,  from  the  smallncEsI 
of  the  house,  although  there  were  pews,  it  seemed| 
rather  a  domestic  than  a  public  religious  niee,tii 
The  minister  corresponded,  admirably,  with  tlie  ap- 
pearance of  the  house  and  congregation,  as  far  as  m 


1 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.   31 

tiquity  and  primeval  simplicity  were  concerned,  but 
he  was  highly  respectable  for  understanding,  and 
sustained,  even  in  these  humble  circumstances,  the 
[dignity  of  his  station.     He  was  an  old  man,  with 
loary  locks,  and  a  venerable  aspect,  a  man  of  God, 
of  other  times — a  patriarchal  teacher — not  caring 
for  much  balanced  nicety  of  phrase,   but  giving 
lis  flock  wholesome  food,  in  sound  doctrine,  and 
)lain  speech.     His  prayers  had  that   detail  of  peti- 
tion— that  specific  application,  both  to  public  and 
)rivate  concerns,  and  that  directness  «f  allusion,  to 
the  momentous  political  events  of  the  day,  and  their 
ipparent  bearing  upon  this  people,  which  was  com- 
lon  among  our  ancestors,  and  especially  among  the 
irst  ministers,  who  brought  with  them  the  fervor  of 
[he  times  when  they  emigrated  from  England. 

This  aged  minister  is  still  living,  but  since  the 
iestruction  of  his  ancient  house,  and  the  division  of 
lis  people,  he  is  without  any  particular  charge ;  still, 
[lovvever,  although  oppressed  with  the  infirmities  of 
Advanced  Hfe,  he  occasionally  officiates  in  public. 
Instead  of  the  ancient  house,  there  have  now  arisen 
[he  three  pretty,  modern  churches. 

We  are  not,  however,  to  infer  that  increased  re- 
lources,  nor  additional  zeal  for  religion  has  reared 
lese  edifices ;  it  was  the  effect  of  local  jealousies, 
|s  to  the  place,  where  a  new  house  should  be  built, 
pd  how  often,  in  our  New-England  villages,  do  we 
lee  this  circumstance  produce  the  same  result,  ad- 
iing  to  the  beauty,  but,  perhaps,  not  always  to  the 
^armony  and  piety  of  the  neighbourhood. 


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32       TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  (QUEBEC. 

It  would,  be  easy  tb  give  a  considerable  li^t  of 
towns  in  Connecticut,  where  two  spires  rise  instead 
of  one,  because  the  people  could  not  agree  where 
the  one  should  be  placed.     Happier  would  it  be,  if  I 
these  separations  had  always  been  free  from  animos-  j 
ity — if  they  had  not  sometimes  laid  the  foundation 
of  permanent  discord,  and  if  there  had  been  no  in- 
stance of  outrageous  violence,  and  the  prostration  of  I 
all  law  and  order,  while  people  were  professing  only 
to  honour  their  Maker,  and  to  benefit  their  fellow  | 
men.     But  still,  who  that  is  friendly  to  the  best  in- 
terests of  mankind  can  fail  to  be  gratified,  with  the! 
constant  succession  of  churches  and  spires  which  he 
observes  in  Connecticut,  and  who  would  not  prefer 
the  active  interest  that  is  manifested  on  this  subject, 
although  attended  with  occasional  irregularities — tol 
that  apathy  which  permits  a  land  to  remain  withoutl 
temples  to  the  living  God,  and  rarely  salutes  the  ear] 
with  the  sound  of  "  the  church  going  bell." 

Passing  through  a  part  of  Canton,  we  arrived  inl 
a  little  clustre  of  pretty  houses,  handsomely  situaterfl 
on  the  Farmington  River. 

PECULIARITIES  IN  THE  MANNERS  OF  AMERICAN  ^NNS I 

This  was  a  part  of  New-Hartford  where  we  din- 
ed pleasantly ;  every  thing  was  good,  and  neatly  andl 
well  prepared,  and  we  were  attended  by  one  oj 
those  comely  respectable  young  women,  (a  daugh- 
ter of  the  landlord,)  who,  so  often,  in  our  public^ 


10V9.  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  Q,UEBEC.       3Ji 


houses,  perform  these  services,  without  departing 
from  the  most  correct,  respectable,  and  amiable  de- 
portment. 

This  is  a  peculiarity  in  the  manners  of  this  coua- 

try  which  is  not  at  once  understood  by  a  foreigner, 

and  especially  by  an  Englishman.     Such  a  person, 

if  uninstructed  in  the  genius  of  the  country,  almost 

of  course  presumes,  that  all  those  whom  he  sees  in 

pilblic  houses  are  in  servile  situations.     If  he  adopt 

towards  them  an  imperious  and  harsh  manner,  he 

gives  oiTence,  and    produces  coldness,   and   pos- 

isibly  resentment,  sO   that    the   interview  ends  in 

mutual   dissatisfaction.      If  the    traveller    should 

write  a  book  he,  of  course,  enlarges  on  the  rudeness 

of  American  manners,  and  it  is  very  possible  that 

even  the  servants  of  our  inns  may  give  him  some 

occasion  for  such  remarks^  if  they  are  treated  as 

persons  of  their  condition  commonly  are  in  Europe. 

!  Some  years  since,  to  an  Englishmaji  emigrating  to 

I  America,  the  obvious  causes  which  often  disgust  the 

English,  and  offend  the  Americans  when  tlie  former 

i  are  travelling  among  the  latter,  and  especially  in  the 

I  smaller  towns  and  villages,  were  faithfully  pointed 

out.     It  was  strongly  recommended  to  him,   rather 

to  ask  as  a  favour,  what  he  had  a  right  to  command 

as  a  duty — to  treat  the  heads  of  the  public  houses, 

with  marked  respect,  and  their  sons  and  daughters, 

who.  might  be  in  attendance,  and  even  the  servants, 

with  kindness  and  courtesy,  avoiding  the  use  of 

terras  aod  epithets  which  might  imply  iDferioritf 


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34   TOUR  B£TWU£:N  HARTFORD  AND  ^^EBCO. 

and  servitude,  to  make  their  duties  as  light  a& 
possible,  to  manifest  no  unpleasant  peculiarities, 
and  to  make  no  unreasonable  demands,  with  re- 
spect to  food,  wines  and  cookery.  He  was  assur- 
ed, that  with  such  a  spirit,  he  would  be  treated  with 
respect  and  kindness — that  he  would  be  cheerfully 
served — that  the  best  the  house  afforded  would  be 
promptly  obtained  for  him,  and  should  he  ever  visit 
the  same  house  again,  that  he  would  probably^be 
remembered  and  welcomed  with  cordiality.  He 
must  indeed,  occasionally,  concede  something  to  fa- 
miliarity and  curiosity,  but  with  an  amiable  spirit  and 
courteous  deportment,  he  would  not  meet  with 
rudeness  or  neglect,  or  have  occasion  to  write  an 
angry  sentence  concerning  thfe  Americans;  and  he 
was  told,  that  even  the  familiarity  and  curiosity  which 
are  sometimes  unpleasant*,  would  be  commonly  re- 1 
paid,  by  the  communication  of  valuable  local  infor- 
mation. 

As  the  gentleman  to  whom  these  remarks  were  I 
addressed  was  gay,  and  had  been  a  military  man,! 
be  was  cautioned  not  to  presume  that  any  members, 
of  the  families  at  the  public  houses,  might  be  treated  | 
with  levity,  for,  he  would  find  that  fathers  and  broth- 
ers were   at  hand,   and  pecuniary  considerations  I 
would  be  sacrificed,  at  once,  to  the  respectability  of 
the  house.    After  this  gentleman  had  travelled  four- 
teen months  in  the  United  States,  he  came  to  the 
town,  where  his  adviser  resided,  and  thanked  him  for 
bis  cautions.    He  said  that  they  had  bees  of  the 


^- 


%■ 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  ^UEBE€.       35 

greatest  service  to  him,  that  he  had  found  the  pre- 
dictions fully  verified,  and  himself  treated  with  hos- 
pitality and  kindness,  while  he  had  seen  others  of 
his  countrymen,  pursuing  an  opposite  deportment, 
meet  with  very  unpleasant  treatment,  and  creating 
both  for  themselves  and  others,  perpetual  dissatisfae- 
tion. 


RIDE  TO  SANDISFIELD.  ^^ 

In  the  afternoon,  during  a  ride  of  sixteen  miien, 
which  brought  us  to  Sandisfield,  in  JMassachusetts, 
we  never  left  the  baiiks  of  the  Farmington  river, 
which,  owing  to  its  windings,  and  our  own,  we, 
crossed  during  the  day,  no  fewer  than  seven  times, 
and  on  as  many  bridges.  We  had  now  left  the  Al- 
bany turnpike,  and  the  great  thoroughfare  of  popu- 
lation and  of  business,  and  purposely  deviated  into 
onet)f  those  wildernesses,  which,  intersected  by 
roads,  and  sprinkled  with  solitary  houses,  afford  the 
traveller  an  interesting  variety,  and  easily  transport 
him  back  in  imagination,  to  the  time  when  the  whole 
of  this  vast  empire  was  a  trackless  forest.  In  a  very 
hilly  and  almost  mountainous  region,  we  found  a 
delightful  road,  so  level,  that  our  horses  hardly  <KVer 
broke  their  trot ;  the  road  generally  followed  tlie 
river,  and  was  laid  out,  with  few  exceptions,  on  the 
alluyial  bottom,  which  the  river  had  formed.  We 
passed  almost  the  whole  distance,  through  a  vast 
defile,  in  the  forest,  which  every  where  hung  arounrl 


^tmmak 


i^:' 


36       TOUR  BETWEEN  HAHTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


Ik 


:? 


US  in  gloomy  grandeur,  presenting  lofty  trees,  rising 
in  verdant  ridges,  but  occasionally  scorched  and 
blackened  by  fire,  even  to  their  very  tops,  and 
strongly  contrasted  with  the  cliffs  and  peaks  of 
rude  rocks,  which  here  and  there,  rose  above  the 
almost  impervious  forest.         % 

This  tract  of  country  had  the  stillness  of  a  rural 
scene,  embosomed  in  mountains ;  there  were  no 
villages,  and  the  few  scattered  farm  houses  were 
scarcely  near  enough,  even  for  rural  neighbourhood. 
Their  very  graves  were  solitary  :  little  family  cem- 
eteries several  times  occurred,  marked  by  pretty, 
white,  marble  monuments,  and  by  graves  covered 
with  the  richest  verdure,  while  the  gloomy  bier 
stood,  bard  by,  in  the  field,  ready  again  to  support 
its  melancholy  burden. 

It  was  quite  dark  before  we  arrived  at  Sandis- 
field ;  wind,  rain  and  gloomy  portentous  clouds, 
driving  over  the  dark  hills,  might  have  made  our 
ride,  for  a  few  of  the  last  miles,  somewhat  anxious, 
but,  our  road  was  good,  and  tlie  welcome  light  of 
the  Inn,  at  length  caught  our  eyes,  and  a  quiet  eve- 
ning, passed  with  our  pens  and  books,  beguiled  our 
time  till  the  hour  of  repose.  A  tolerable  house  was 
m^^  comfortable,  by  the  assiduity  and  kindness  of 
its  tenants,  and  our  sleep,  in  a  great  vacant  ball 
room,  was  not  much  interrupted  by  the  rain,  drop- 
ping on  the  floor,  and  by  the  wind,  howling  throngb 
broken  panes  of  glass. 

Sandisfisld  is  tbirty-six  miles  from  Hartford. 


•«*• 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  (^UCBEC.       91 


vi 


RIDE  TO  LENOX. 

Our  equinoctia'  »*ill  continued,  and  we  set  for- 
ward before  eight  in  the  morning,  in  the  midst  of  a 
driving  rain.  But,  as  the  coach msm  was  wrapped 
in  A  weather  proof  great  coat  of  oiled  silk,  and  wc 
were  completely  protected  from  the  rain,  we  pursu- 
ed our  journey,  without  the  slightest  inconvenience|^ 

The  war  of  the  elements  corresponded  very  well 
with  the  wild  scenery  through  which  we  were  to 
pass.  For  ten  miles,  we  again  followed  the  course 
of  the  Farmington  river;  our  road  was  one  contin- 
ued vista,  through  an  uninterrupted  wilderness  of 
the  most  lofty  trees ;  occasionally,  the  wide  forest- 
crowned  ridges  caught  our  eyes,  as  they  shewed 
themselves  through  the  openings  of  the  wood,  or 
towered  above  its  top ;  but,  for  the  most  part,  the 
river,'  now  much  diminished  in  size,  murmuring 
over  a  rocky  channel,  and  presenting  many  a  for- 
midable barrier  of  drift  wood,  recently  accumulated 
by  an  unexampled  deluge  of  rain,  was  a  principal 
object  of  contemplation;  while  the  forest,  inter- 
spersed with  numerous  pine  trees,  rising  to  a  great 
height,  often  burnt  to  their  very  summits,  and  totter- 
ing to  their  fall,  appeared,  as  if,  only  recentlf^ in- 
vaded by  man,  and  as  just  beginning  to  resign  its 
solitary  dominion,  to  the  axe  and  to  the  fire. 

The  river,  we  crossed  again  and  again,  till  we 
numbered  the  ninth  time,  and  then,  a  few  miles  from 
(t^lCon6nes  of  Lenox,  we  traced  it  to  its  source,  in 
\>  4* 


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38   TOUR'BfiTWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  q,V£B£G. 

a  small,  but  pretty  lake,  of  probably  half  a  mile  or 
more  in  length.  Thus  we  bade  adieu  to  our  little 
river,  after  having  been  familiar  with  it  for  forty 
miles,  and  for  nearly  thirty,  we  had  constantly  trav- 
elled upon  its  banks,  finding  a  smooth  road  in  the 
midst  of  a  ruggea  country. 

To  those  who  would  wish  to  enjoy  an  interlude 
j)f  forest  scenery,  almost  in  the  v^ildness  of  nature, 
and  little  more  subdued  by  man,  than  is  necessary 
to  render  it  comfortable  to  travel  through,  this  ride, 
from  New-Hartford  through  Sandisfield,  to  Lenox, 
may  be  strongly  recommended.  Such  a  tract,  in 
the  midst  of  populous  and  well  cultivated  regions,  is 
in  this  country  rare,  and  probably  more  resembles 
a  western  wild,  than  a  district  in  an  old  and  popu- 
lous state. 

Soon  after  passing  this  lake,  the  country  began  to 

descend, ;  another  lake  of  gr eatef  magnitude  occur- 
red on  our  left — a  river  soon  succeeded,  and  we 
recognized  these  waters,  as  the  first  of  those  which 
begin  to  feed  the  infant  Housatonick. 

GEOLOGY. 

The  rocks  on  our  ride,  were,  almost  invariably, 
gn^s,  frequently  intersected  by  distinct  veins  of 
granite,  in  which  feldspar  generally  predominated. 
Not  far  from  Lenox  we  missed  tw  j  forges,  the  iron 
ore  for  which,  we  were -giiprmed,  is  dtig  out  of  the 
hills  in  the  vicinity  of  that  town. 


i 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  (QUEBEC.       39 

As  we  ascended  the  hills  on  which  Lenox  staflds, 
white  primitive  lime  stone  began  to  appear,  in  de- 
tached masses,  ifl  spots  uncovered  by  quarrying, 
and  in  ridges  crossing  the  road ;  the  strata  were 
nearly  vertical,  and  like  those  in  Litchfield  County 
in  Connecticut,  were  imbedded  in  gneiss. 

LENOX. 

Xenox,  the  capital  of  Berkshire  county,  is  a  town 
of  uncommon  beauty.     It  is  built  upon  a  high  hill, 
Ion  two  streets,  intersecting  each  other  nearly  at 
right  angles ;  it  is  composed  of  handsome  houses, 
.  which,  witli  the  exception  of  a  few  of  brick,  are 
painted  of  a  brilliant  white ;  it  is  ornamented  with 
three  neat  houses  of  public  worship,  one  of  which 
is  large  and  handsome,  and  stands  upon  a  hill  high- 
I  er  than  the  town,  and  a  little  removed  from  it.     It 
ihas  a  jail,  a  woollen  manufactory,  a  furnace. for  hol- 
I  low  ware,  an  academy  of  considerable  size,  and  a 
i  court  house  of  brick,  in  a  fine  style  of  architecture ;  it 
I  is  fronted  with  pillars,  and  furnished  with  contenient 
offices  and  a  spacious  court  room ;  this  room  is  car- 
peted, and  what  is  more  important,  contains  a  library 
for  the  use  of  the  bar.    Lenox  has  fine  mountain  Ht, 
and  is  surrounded  by  equally  fine  mountain  scene- 
ry.   Indeed,  it  is  one  of  the  prettiest  of  our  inland 
tQvvns,  and  even  in  the  view  of  an  European  travel- 
ller,  (who  had  eyes  to  see  any  thing  beautiful,  in 
Miat  is  unlike  Europe,)  it  would  appear  like  a  gem 


I-   'i*V 


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^ 

40       TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORU  AND  ^,\i£.^lH% 

&in5ng  the  mountains.  I  did  not  count  tlie  houseis, 
but  should  think  there  might  be  one  hundred  hou- 
ses and  stores  &£c.  Its  population  is  one  thousand 
three  hundred  and  ten.''^ 

White  marble  is  often  the  material  of  their  steps, 
foundations  and  pavements.  This  country  abounds 
with  primitive  white  limestone. 

Our  dinner  Rnd  treatment  at  the  inn,  were  such  as 
a  reasonable  traveller  would  have  been  very  well 
satisfied  with,  at  a  country  tavern  in  England.  Still, 
probably  no  small  town  in  England  is  so  beautiful  as 
Lenox,  nor  have  the  Europeans,  in  general,  any  ad- 
equate idea  of  the  beauty  of  the  New-England  villa- 
ges.— Lenox  is  fifty  eight  miles  from  Hartford. 

RFDE TO  NEWLEBANON. 

As  we  ascended  a  mountainous  ridge,  two  miles 
on  the  road  to  New-Lebanon,  a  fine  retrospect  oc- 
curred.  Immediately  below,  was  a  spacious  and 
deep  basin,  environed  by  mountains,  which,  receding 
one  bi^iind  another,  presented  in  one  view,  brilliant 

'■forest  green,  in  another,  dark  hues,  almost  black, 
and  farther  off,  ridges  and  summits  struggling 
tlffough  clouds  and  mist,  and  rain,  in  obscure  and 
gloomy  grandeur.  Beautifully  contrasted  with 
these,  was  the  bright  clustre  of  buildings  in  Lenox, 

.  compact,  blended  by  perspective  into  one  rich  group, 
in  which  turrets,  and  Gothic  pinnacles  and  Greciau 

*  Worcester's  Gaaeteer. 


\ 


it- 


TOUR  SXTWCEN  HARTFORD  AND  (^UCBEC.       41 

pillars  were  conspicuous,  and  seemed  like  a  string 
of  pearls,  upon  the  brow  and  declivity  of  the  hil), 
now  sunk  by  comparison,  to  one  of  moderate  eleva- 
tion. ♦ 

It  were  in  vain  to  attempt  to  describe  all  the  fine 
I  alpine  sceneiy,  which,  with  endless  variety,  was  per- 
Ipetually  occurring  and  perpetually  changing.  Rich 
▼allies  and  basins,  were  every  whercs  mixed  with 
the  hills  and  mountains,  on  whose  declivities  and 
summits,  cultivation  had  often  spread  scenes  offer- 
[tility  and  beauty. 

The  lofty  Hoosack,  with  its  double  summit — the 
I  highest  mountain  in  this  region,  appeared  at  a  dis- 
tance on  oui  right ; — on  our  left,  the  fertile  vales  of 
Richmond,  a  scattered  agricultural  town,  and  almost 
before  we  were  aware  of  it,  we  wound  our  way 
down  the  steep  declivity  of  the  mountain,  which 
bounds  the  southeast  side  of  the  vale  of  New-Leb- 
anon. We  had  already  passed  upon  our  right,  a 
small  village  belonging  to  the  people,  ludicrously 
called  Shakers  or  Shaking  Quakers. 


% 


VILLAGE  OF  THE  SHAKERS. 

We  did  not  deviate  into  this  first  settlement,  be- 
Icause  their  principal  establishment,  in  this  quarter, 
was  immediately  before  us,  and  we  were  indeed  not 
fully  clear  of  the  mountain,  before  we  found  our- 
[selves  in  the  midst  of  their  singular  community, 
'heir  buildings  are  thickly  planted,  along  a  street  of 


?r 


r 


t         V' 


m 


TOUR  Sr.TWEEN   HARTFORD  AND  ^VEBKC/ 

a  mile  in  length.  All  of  them  are  comfortable,  and  n 
considerable  proportion  are  large.  They  are,  almost 
without  an  exception,  painted  of  an  ochre  yellow, 
and,  although  plain,  they  make  a  handsome  appear- 
ance. The  utmost  neatness  is  conspicuous  in  their 
fields,  gardens,  court  yards,  out  houses,  and  in  the 
very  road ;  not  a  weed,  not  a  spot  of  filth,  or  any 
nuisance  is  suffered  to  exist.  Their  wood  is  cut 
and  piled,  in  the  most  exact  order;  their  fences  are 
perfect;  even  their  stone  walls  are  constructed  with 
great  regularity,  and  of  materials  so  massy,  and  so 
well  arranged,  that  unless  overthrown  by  force,  they 
may  stand  for  centuries ;  instead  of  wooden  posts 
for  their  gates,  they  have  pillars  of  stone  of  one  solid 
piece,  and  every  thing  bears  the  impress  of  labour, 
vigilance  and  skill,  with  such  a  share  of  taste,  as  k 
consistent  with  the  austerities  of  their  sect.  Their 
orchards  are  beautiful,  and  probably  no  part  of  our 
country  presents  finer  examples  of  agricultural  ex- 
cellenee.  They  are  said  to  possess  nearly  three 
thousand  acres  of  land,  in  this  vicinity.  Such  neat- 
ness and  order  I  have  not  seen  any  where,  on  so 
large  a  scale,  except  in  Holland,  where  the  very  i 
necessities  of  existence  impose  order  and  neatness  j 
upon  the  wiiole  population ;  but  here  it  is  voluntary. 
Besides  agriculture,  it  is  well  known,  that  the 
Shakers  occupy  themselves  much,  with  mechanical 
employments.  The  productions  of  their  industry  | 
and  skill,  sieves,  brushes,  boxes,  pails  and  other  do- 
mestic utensils  are  every  where  exposed  for  sale,  and 


TOVA  BETWEEN   HARTFORD  AND  ^UEBEt.      431^  ' 

are  distinguished  by  excellence  of  workmanship.^ 
■Their  garden  seeds  are  celebrated  for  goodness,  and 
ind  a  ready  market.     They  have  many  gardenS} 
[but  there  is  a  principal  one  of  several  acres  which 
II  am  told  exhibits  superior  cultivation. 

Their  females  are  employed  in  domestic  manu« 
factures  and  house  work,  and  the  community  is  fed 
land  clothed  by  its  own  productions. 

The  property  is  all  in  common.  The  avails  of 
the  general  industry  are  poured  into  the  treasury  of 
the  whole ;  individual  wants  are  supplied  from  a 
;omtnon  magazine,  or  store  house,  which  is  kept  for 
leach  family,  and  ultimately,  the  elders  invest  the 
^ains  in  land  and  buildings,  or  sometimes  in  money, 
|or  other  personal  property,  which  is  held  for  the 
rood  of  the  society. 

It  seems  soiuewhat  paradoxical  to  speak  of  a  fam- 
ily, where  the  relation  upon  which  it  is  founded  is 
unknown.  But  still,  the  Shakers  are  assembled  in 
|what  they  call  families,  which  consist  of  little  col- 
lections, (more  or  less  numerous  according  to  the 
|size  of  the  house)  of  males  and  females,  who  occu- 
)y  separate  apartments,  under  the  same  roof,  eat  at 
separate  tables,  but  mix  occasionally  for  society,  la- 
|bour,  or  worship.  There  is  a  male  and  a  female 
|head  to  the  family,  who  superintend  all  their  con- 
|cerns — give  out  their  provisions — allot  their  employ- 
jments,  and  enforce  industry  and  fidelity. 

The  numbers  in  this  village,  as  we  were  informed 
}f  one  of  the  male   members,  are  about  five  hun- 


^. 


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C^f 

■■:■• 

1 

^; 

."'1 

*d' 


,44      TOUR  BETWEEN  MARTFORB  AND   ^l^lEBCe. 

dred,  but  there  are  said  to  be  fifteen  hundred,  inclu- 
ding other  villages  in  this  vicinity.  Their  numbers  | 
are  sustained  by  voluntary  additions,  and  by  prose> 
lyting.  Poor  and  ignorant  people,  in  the  vicinity,  I 
and  on  the  neighbouring  mountains  in  particular,  are 
allured,  it  is  said,  by  kindness,  and  presents,  to  join 
the  society;  and  destitute  widows,  frequently  come 
in,  with  their  children,  and  unite  themselves  to  this 
community.  Where  a  comfortable  subsistence  for| 
liile,  a  refuge  for  old  age,  and  for  infancy  and  child- 
hood, the  reputation  (at  least  with  the  order)  of  pie- 
ty, and  the  promise  of  heaven  are  held  out  to  view, 
it  is  no  wonder  that  the  ignorant,  the  poor,  the  be- 
reaved, the  deserted,  the  unhappy,  the  superstitious, 
the  cynical  and  even  the  whimsical,  should  occasion- 
ally swell  the  numbers  of  the  Shakers. 

Their  house  of  public  worship  is  painted  white, 
and  is  a  neat  building,  which  in  its  external  appear- 
ance, would  not  be  disreputable  to  any  sect. 

Their  worship,  which  I  did  not  have  an  opportu- 
nity of  seeing,  is  said  to  be  less  extravagant  thanl 
formerly ;  their  dancing  is  still  practised,  but  wiili 
more  moderation,  and  for  a  good  many  years,  thej 
have  ceased  to  dance  naked,  which  was  formerly 
practised,  and  even  with  persons  of  different  sexes. 
Their  elders  exercise  a  very  great  influence  over  the] 
minds  of  the  young  people.     The  latter  believe  (as 
I  was  assured  by  a  respectable  inhabitant  of  New- 
Lebanon,  but  not  a  Shaker)  that  the  former  hold  a| 
direct  and  personal  intercourse  with  Christ  and  thi 


.,*,. 


TOUR  BBTWJEBN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC 

Apostles,  and  that  the  elders  possess  the  power' 
I  of  inspecting  their  very  thoughts,  and  their  most 
[secret  actions.     Perhaps  this  will  account  for  the  re** 
[puted  purity  of  the  Shakers,  for  whatever  may  be 
imagined,  it  does  not  appear  that  any  scandalous  of- 
fences do  not0  occur  among  them,  or,  at  least,  that 
they  are  brought  to  light,  and  it  must  be  allowed 
(that  if  they  were  frequent,  they  could  not  be  con- 
ieealed. 

They  profess,  it  is  said,  to  believe.,  that  Christ  has 
ulready  appeared  the  second  time  on  the  earth,  in 
the  person  of  their  great  leader,  mother  Ann  Lee, 
ind  that  the  saints  are  now  judging  the  world. 

They  have  no  literature  among  them,  nor  do  we 
lear  that  they  are  ever  joined  by  people  of  enlighten- 
ed minds.  We  met  a  party  of  children  apparently 
3oming  from  school,  and  I  enquired  of  a  Shaker,  a 
liddle  aged  man  of  respectable  appearance,  wheth- 
iv  the  children  belonged  to  the  Society ;  he  answer- 
ed in  the  afFirmative;  "  But,"  I  replied,  "  how  is 
that,  since  you  do  not  have  children  of  your  own  ?V 
ive  these  children  the  offspring  of  parents  who 
ifter  becoming  such,  have  joined  your  society,  and 
)rought  their  children  with  them  ?"  "  Yea,"  was 
^he  answer,  with  a  very  drawling  and  prolonged  ut- 
terance, and  at  the  same  time,  there  was  a  slight 
(aulter ing  of  the  muscles  of  his  face,  as  if  he  were  a 
little  disposed  to  smile.  The  children  were  dress- 
ed in  a  plain  costume  as  the  whole  society  are. 

5 


# 


Ml: 


-■*>■( 


46       TOUK  B£TW£EN  tiA&TFORB  4|U>  (QUEBEC. 


•■.m' 


This  singular  people  took  their  rise  in  England, 
nearly  half  a  century  ago,  and  the  settlement  at 
New-Lebanon,  is  of  more  than  forty  years  standing. 

They  first  emigrated  to  America  in  the  year  1774, 
under  their  spiritual  mother,  Ann  Lee,  a  niece  of  the 
celebrated  General  Charles  Lee,  who  made  a  dis-| 
tinguished  figure,  during  the  American  Revolntiona- 
ly  War. 

The  order,  neatness,  comfort  and  thrift,  which  are  I 
eohspicuous  among  them,  are  readily  accountedTor, 
by  their  industry,  economy,  self-denial  and  devotion  to 
their  leaders,  and  to  the  common  interest,  all  of  which 
>are  religious'  duties  among  them,  and,  the  very  fact 
that  they  are,  for  the  most  part,  not  burdened  with 
the  care  of  children,  leaves  them  gready  at  liberty,] 
to  follow  their  occupations  without  interruption.* 

But — where  is  the  warrant,  either  in  reason  or  k\ 
scripture,  by  which  whole  communities,  (not,  here  I 
and  there,  individuals,  peculiarly  situated,)  withdrauj 
themselves  from  the  most  interesting  and  importanti 
of  the  social  relations — from  the  tender  charities  ofl 
husband  and  wife — from  the  delightful  assiduities  ofl 
parental  love^-from  that  relation,  on  which  societrl 

*  They  have  another  collection  of  houses  in  the  vicinity,  where! 
I  was  told  they  place  offending  members,  who  being  under  discil 
pline,  arc  for  the  time,  excluded  fm>m  the  community,  and  whoal 
they  ityle  baekdidPTs;  tlicy  designate  them  by  saying,  "  they  are! 
out  of  the  gift.''  I  am  told  that  they  are  not  offended  by  beinji 
called  ShaUers,  and  do  not  regnrd  it  as  an  opprobrious  epithet! 
Indeed,  t  have  never  heard  of  a  milder  or  more  respectable  namej 
by  which  they  either  are  called,  or  even  wish  to  be. 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  ^UKBEC.       47 

jtands,  and  on  wbicb,  as  on  a  fruitful  stock,  is  grafts 
led,  every  personal  and  domestic  virtue,  and  every 
[hope,  both  for  this  world  and  a  better!* 

By  what  right  are  they  empowered  to  recruit  their 
:  ranks,  thinned  from  time  to  time  by  death,  by  draw- 
ing upon  the  social  world,  whose  obedience  to  the 
first  law  of  God  And  nature,  they  condemn,  while 
I  they  are  dependant  upon  it,  both  for  their  own  exist- 
ence as  individuals,  and  for  the  continuance  of  their 
own  unnatural   community  ;  however   commend- 
lable  they  may  be  for  their  industrious,  moral  and 
ihuLi'u     d?=fportment ;  the  principle  of  their  associa- 
tion i  ,    >  ny  opinion,  deserving  of  severe  reproba-^*^ 
tion.    But,  happily,  their  example  is  very  little  in 
danger  of  general  imitation;  mankind  will  not,  gen- 
erally, be  persuaded  to  go  onji  crusade,  or  to  suffer 
martyrdom,  in  the  cause  of  celibacy,  and  I  believe 
it  will  be  long  ere  the  world,  according  to  their  ex- 

*  More  is  not  here  attributed  to  the  institution  of  marriage,  than 
it  deserves,  for,  to  fry  the  question,  we  must  ask,  not,  what  is  the 
condition  of,  here  and  there,  a  convent  or  a  monastery,  or  of  a  few 
clusters  of  Shakers,  protected  as  they  are  by  society,  founded  on 
marriage,  and  drawing  their  recruits  from  the  offspring  of  its  vir; 
tuous  affections.  We  must  inquire  what  would  be  the  condition 
of  the  world,  were  the  institution  of  marriage  entirely  abolished .' 
It  is  obvious,  that  it  would  soon  become  the  unirerxU  theatre  of 
crimes,  of  every  description,  which  are  now  ojily  occasional,  and 
that  no  one  solitary  virtue  could  possibly  spring  up,  or  be  clwrish* 
ed.  Piety  itself,  could  it  exist  in  such  a  state  of  things^^myst  (if 
such  paradoxical  language  can  be  admitted.)  necessarily  b^^me 
exclusively  selfish,  and  indeed,  it  could  find  no  refuge,  axtitpkin, 
absolute  seclusion,  in  the  deps  and  caves  of  the  earth. 


^. 


Ibl 


.■■1 


li 


>>•» 


# 


Hi 


'^ 


*»'■ 


Tl 


^'\ 


Si  ill 


48   TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORI)  AND  QUEBEC. 

pectation,  is  all  reformed  by  becoming  a  generation 
oi  Shakers,  for  tliis  they  say,  will  constitute  the  Mil- 
lenium. Poor  human  nature— of  what  is  it  not  ca- 
pable— ^\i'hat  absurdity ! — what  impiety !  (I  had  al- 
most said,)  is  there,  which  it  has  not  sanctioned 
with  the  name  of  religion. 

,:  As  the  Shakers  are  not  now  a  new  people,  and  as 
their  most  prominent  peculiarities  are  well  known, 
I  am  not  disposed  to  dwell  with  much  minuteness 
on  a  subject,  in  which  I  confess  I  have  very  little 
complacency:  a  few  particulars  more,  may  howev- 
er, be  added. 

They  rarely  publish  any  thing  respecting  their 
own  principles  and  habits,  and  we  are  indebted 
chiefly  to  those  who  have  seceded  from  their  com- 
munity, for  the  more  precise  information  which  we 
possess  respecting  them. 

Among  various  publications  of  this  nature — "An 
account  of  the  people  called  Shakers,  their  faith, 
doctrines  and  practice,  &c.  by  Thomas  Brown," 
who  was,  for  several  years,  a  member  of  their  socie- 
ty, is  probably  one  of  the  best.  It  has  every  appear- 
ance of  being  written  with  candor  and  truth,  and  al- 
though an  unpolished  performance,  exhibits  consid- 
able  ability. 

If  this  book  be  considered  as  a  fair  account  of  the 
Shalcers,  it  is  manifest,  that  notwithstanding  all  the 
commendation  to  which  they  are  entitled,  for  their 
moral  virtues  and  th^  habits  of  order,  industry  and 
economy,  they  are  tf  I  subjects  of  the  wildest  fanat- 


.^^ 


'■^■■r- 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  <IUEREC.       41!) 

icism,  and  of  tiie  most  degrading  superstition.     If  it 
be  idolatry  and  blasphemy,  to.  pronounce  a  woman, 
of  at  least  questionable  character,  to  be  the  Saviour 
of  the  world,  at  his  second  coming,  and  thus,  in  the 
person  of  this  woman,  to  blend  the  attributes  of  the 
Son  of  God,  with  at  least  occasional  drunkenness,  it 
will  be  very  difficult  to  acquit  the  Shakers  of  these 
crimes.*    I  am  aware  ofthe  ignorance  of  many  of 
these  people,  and  am  not  disposed  to  doubt,  that 
there  is  real  piety  among  them,  any  more  than  I  am 
to  deny  that  industry,  sobriety,  economy  and  occa- 
sional humanity  are  conspicuous  traits  of  their  char- 
acters.   They  have  however,  been  known  to  act  in 
a  very  inhuman  manner,  in  separating  and  alienating 
children  from  parents,  and  in  severing  the  other  dear« 
est  ties  of  our  common  nature,  for  the  purpose  of 
building  up  their  own  sect. 

The  conclusion  of  Mr.  Brown's  book  contains  the 
following  summary  of  facts  respecting  them.    Speak- 

*  I  here  allude  \o  Ann  Lee.  She  was  born  in  Manchpstcr  about 
the  year  1735,  and  became  the  wife  of  Abraham  Stanloy.  n  black- 
smith, who  proved  unkind  and  intemperate.  Having  been  pecu- 
liarly unfortunate  in  the  loss  of  eight  infants,  owing  principally 
to  very  severe  personal  sufferings,  during  a  dangerous  crisis, 
which,  at  last,  had  nearly  proved  fatal,  she  renounced  marriage, 
declaring  it  to  have  been  the  great  original  sin,  and  thus  became 
the  leader  of  the  Shakers.  They  bad  before  practised  marriage, 
but  from  this  time  (1771)  tucy  have  renounced:  |yt  Ann  Lee, 
(now  called  mother  Ann,  because  she  was  considefecT'as  the  spir- 
itual mother  of  her  disciples,)  claimed  the  gift  of  languages,  of 
healing,  of  discovering  the  secrets  <^  the  heart,  of  being  actua* 
ted  by  the  invisible  power  of  God3f  sinless  perfection,  and  of 

5* 


Si! 


.'■  fli 


1 

-■  r 


■  !    m 


50      TaUR  BETWEKN  HAllTFORD  AND   QUEBEC. 

ing  of  their  conversion  he  says: — '*  After  a  numbei 
have  believed,  the  next  principal  labour  of  the  lea- 
ders is  to  gather  them  into  a  united  interest  and  or- 
der. They  assemble  every  sabbath  in  their  public 
meeting-house. 

They  walk  to  the  meeting-house,  in  order,  two 
and  two,  and  leave  it  in  the  same  order.  Men  en- 
ter the  left  hand  door  of  the  meeting-house,  and 
women  the  right  hand.  In  each  dwelling-house,  is  a 
room  called  the  meeting-room,  in  which  they  assem- 
ble for  worship  every  evening ;  the  young  believers 
assemble  morning  and  evening,  and,  in  the  afternoon 
of  the  sabbath,  they  all  assemble  in  one  of  these 
rooms,  in  their  dwelling-house,  to  which  meeting 
spectators,  or  those  who  do  not  belong  to  the  society, 
are  not  admitted,  except  friendly  visitors.  Their 
houses  are  well  calculated  and  convenient. 


immediate  revelations.  Mr.  Brown  says,  however,  of  mother 
Ann,  that  she  sometimes  drank  spirituous  Uquors  to  intoxication, 
pronouncing  them  one  of  God's  good  creaturei.  She  died  at  Nis- 
keiinn  in  1784.  In  what  estimation  she  was  held  by  her  follow- 
firs,  may  be  learned  from  the  following,  (must  we  hot  say  ?> 
ktagphemovs  Vines,  taken  from  different  hymns  of  the  Shakers  : 

"  Christ's  second  coining  was  in  mother  Ann-— 

'<  We  bless  QHf  dear  mother  the  chief  corner  stone  ■ 

"  Which  God  laid  in  Zinn  his  anointed  one  ; 

"  Lf>t  names  and  sects  and  parties 

"  Accost  my  ears  no  more  ; 

'^Vly  ever  blessed  mother, 

•♦  Forever  I'll  adore. 

«  Appointed  by  kind  ^enven, 

"  My  Saviour  to  revejii ; 

<*  She  was  the  Lord's  annlnted, 

^  To  shew  the  root  ^f  ejn,  &o.  fcc 


'¥'  '-k- 


IVOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.       61 

In  the  great  house  at  Lebanon  there  are  near 
one  hundred ;  the  men  live  in  their  several  apart- 
ments on  the  right,  as  they  enter  into  the  bouse, 
and  the  women  on  the  left,  commonly  four  in  a 
room.     They  kneel  in  the  morning  by  the  side  of 
the  bed,  as  soon  as  they  arise,  and  the  sanfi '  '^ofore 
they  lie  down ;  also  before  and  after  every'  meal. 
The  brethren  and  sisters  generally  eat  at  the  same 
time  at  two  long  tables  placed  in  the  kitchen,  men 
at  one,  and  women  at  the  other;  during  which  time, 
they  sit  on  benches  and  are  all  silent.     They  go  to 
their  meals  walking  in  order,  one  directly  after  the 
other ;  the  head  of  the  family,  or  elder,  takes  the 
lead  of  the  men,  and  one  called  elder  sister  takes  the 
lead  of  the  women.     Several  women  are  employ- 
ed in  cooking  and  waiting  on  the  table — they  are 
commonly  relieved  weekly  by  others.     It  is  contra- 
ry to  order  for  a  man  or  woman  to  sleep  alone,  but 
two  of  the  brethren  sleep  together,  and  the  sisters 
the  same.     It  is  contrary  to  order  for  a  man  to  be 
alone  with  a  woman,  also  to  touch  one  another.     If 
a  man  presents  any  thing  to  a  female,  or  a  female 
to  a  male,  due  care  must  be  taken  by  each  one  not 
to  touch  the  other.     It  is  contrary  to  order  for  a  wo- 
man  to  walk  out  alone,  or  to  be  alone.     A  man 
and  woman  are  not  allowed  to  converse  together, 
except  iri  the  presence  of  some  of  the  brethren  and 
sisters.     They  sometimes  have  what  they   call  un- 
ion meetings,  when  several  of  "the  brethren  and  sis- 
ters meot  together,  sit  and  converse  and  smoke  their 


* 


m 


m 


'11 


■i'>i 


■fti: 


.'If. 


•w 


'■nil! 


S2       TdUR  BETVVEEf^  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

pipes.  If  a  man  is  on  the  road  alone  from  home, 
in  a  carriage,  it  is  contrary  to  or^er  for  him  to  ad- 
mit a  woman  to  ride  i\  .h  him  on.any  account  what- 
ever. It  is  contrary  to  order,  or  the  gift  as  they 
call  it,  to  leave  any  bars  down,  or  gates  open,  or 
leave  any  thing  they  use,  out  of  its  proper  place, 
consequently  they  seldom  have  any  thing  lost.  It 
is  according  to  the  gift  or  order,  for  all  to  endeav- 
our to  keep  all  things  in  order;  indolence  and  care- 
lessness they  say  is  directly  opposite  to  the  gospel 
and  order  of  God ;  cleanliness  in  every  respect  is 
strongly  enforced — it  is  contrary  to  order  even  to 
spit  on  the  floor.  A  dirty,  careless,  slovenly  or  in- 
dolent person  they  say,  cannot,  travel  in  the  way  of 
God,  or  be  religious.  It  is  contrary  to  order  to  talk 
loud,  to  shut  doors  hard,  to  rap  at  a  door  for  admit- 
tance, or  to  make  a  noise  in  any  respect;  even  when 
walking  the  floor,  they  must  be  carefuliiot  to  make 
a  noise  with  their  feet.  They  go  to  bed  at  nine  or 
ten  o'clock,  and  rise  at  four  or  five ;  all  that  are  in 
health  go  to  work  about  sun-rise,  in-door  mechan- 
ics, in  the  winter,  work  by  candlelight;  each  one 
follows  such  an  employment  as  the  deacon  appoints 
for  him.  Every  man  and  woman  must  be  employ- 
ed, and  work  steadily  and  moderately.  When  any 
are  sick  they  have  the  utmost  care  and  attention 
paid  to  them.  When  a  man  is  sick,  if  there  is  a  wo- 
man among  the  sisters,  who  was  his  wife  before  he 
believed,  she,  if  in  health,  nurses  and  waits  upon 
him.     If  any  of  them  transgress  tlie  rules  and  or- 


5» 

ay*' 


rOUU  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  (QUEBEC. 

[ders  of  the  church,  they  are  not  held  in  union  U] 
[they  confess  their  transgression,  and  that  often  on 
[their  knees,  before  the  brethren  and  sisters. 

Each  church  in  the  different  settlements  has  a 
[house  called  the  office,  where  all  business  is  trans- 
[acted  either  among  themselves  or  with  other  peo- 
[ple ;  each  family  deposit  in  the  office  all  that  is  to 
[be  spared  for  charitable  purposes,  which  is  distribu- 
ted by  the  deacon  to  those  whom  he  judges  to  be 
proper  objects  of  charity.     He  never  sends  the  poor 
ind  needy  empty  away. 

Mr.  Brown  is  of  opinion  that  they  will  not  "  soon 
)ecome  extinct."     "  Their  general  character'*  (he 
idds,)  "  of  honesty  in  their  temporal  concerns,  and 
[their  outward  deportment  and  order  being  such,  that 
[many  may  be  induced  to  join  them ;  and  as  Indus* 
[try  and  frugality  are  two  great  points  in  their  reli- 
Igion,  it  is  likely  they  will  become  a  rich  people." 
[in  proof  of  his  opinion  he  remarks : — "  See  the  once 
luncultivated  wilderness  waste  of  Niskeuna,  and  oth- 
[er  places  now  turned  into  fruitful  fields — see  their 
leat  public  edifices  towering  amidst  the  surrounding 
elegance  and  neatness  of  their  more  private  habita- 
tions— See  their  ability  in  their  munificent  dona- 
tions to  the  poor  in  New- York  j        '       *     judging 
)f  their  future  prosperity  from  their  present  flourish- 
ing state  and  from  their  being  a  much  more  orderly 
)eople,  (than  jbrmerly)  it  is  possible  they  may  in- 
jcrease  in  number  and  acquire  a  prev,ailing  influence 
[in  the  future  destinies  of  this  country." 


-* 


^f'W  fj 


■■■€ 


.■'_iHK, 


IT 


54       TOUJl  BCTWfKN  HARTFOAD  AND  (IU£B£C. 


*., 


4- 


NEW-LEBANON  MINERAL  SPRING. 


This  is  a  very  remarkable  fountain.  Unlike  most 
mineral  waters,  it  issues  from  a  high  hill ;  the  wa- 
ter boils  up,  in  a  space  of  ten  feet  wide^  by  three 
and  a  half  deep;  it  is  perfectly  pellucid,  so  that  a 
pin's  head  might  be  seen  on  the  bottom  of  the 
spring ;  gas  in  abundance,  issues  from  the  pebbles, 
and  sand,  and  keeps  the  water  in  constant  and  pleas- 
ing agitation  ;  the  fountain  is  very  copious,  more  so 
by  far  than  any  spring  that  I  have  seen,  except  the 
springs  at  Bath  in  England ;  the  water  discharged 
amounts  to  eighteen  barrels  in  a  minute,  and  not 
only  supplies  the  baths  very  copiously,  simply  by 
running  down  hill  to  them,  but,  in  the  same  man- 
ner it  feeds  several  mills,  and  turns  the  water  wheels 
with  sufficient  power.  Owing  to  its  high  tempera- 
ture it  does  not  congeal  in  winter  which  gives  it 
a  great  advantage  for  moving  machinery.  The 
quantity  of  water  is  constant,  and  varies  not  per'aep- 
tibly  in  any  season — so  is  its  temperature  which  is 
73°  of  Fahrenheit.  This  temperature,  so  near  the 
summer  heat,  makes  it  truly  a  thermal  water,  and 
causes  a  copious  cloud  of  condensed  vapour  to  hang 
over  the  foiintain,  whenever  the  air  is  cold.  There 
is  no  film  to  be  seen  upon  the  water,  it  apparently 
deposits  nothing  by  standing,  but  in  the  course  of 
time,  there  collects  in  its  channel,  an  earthy  or  stony 
depoait,  which  eventually  becomes  copious  and  hard. 


TOUA  BETWEEN  UARTfORD  AND  Q,|}UBEC.   5j| 

iTbis  deposit  is  rapidly  made  in  the  tea  kett)||0, 
Iwhich  are  speedily  incrusted,  and  tl)eir  throats 
Ichoaked  by  it;  it  is  of  a  white  colour,  and  its  ori- 
Igin  can  scarcely  be  a  subject  of  wonder,  since  the 
Ifountain  issues  from  a  hill  of  lime  stone. 

The  water  is  perfectly  tasteless  and  inodorous — 
[very  soft — does  not  curdle  soap — is  used  for  all  cu- 
llinary  and  domestic  purposes — is  acceptable  to  ani- 
Imals,  which  drink  at  the  stream  that  flows  in  a  rivu- 
llet  down  the  hill,  and  apparently,  differs  little  from 
{very  pure  mountain  water,  except  by  its  remakable 
temperature ;  that  of  the  contiguous  springs  in  the 
same  bill  is  as  low  as  that  of  any  mountain  springs 
I— about  50°. 

It  is  found  to  be  very  useful  in  salt  rheums  and 
{various  other  cutaneous  affections — in  some  trouble- 
some internal  obstructions  Sic.  It  augments  the  ap- 
petite and  sometimes  acts  as  a  cathartic.  The  bath 
I  if  used,  without  previously  guarding  the  stomach,  by 
I  a  draught  of  the  water,  sometimes  produces  sickness . 
I  at  the  stomach. 

As  to  the  chemical  constitution  of  this  water, 

[Professor  Griscom,  (in  1810)  from  the  application 

{of  tests,  but  without  attempting  a  regular  analysis ^ 

drew    certain   conclusions,    which   are    stated    in 

Bruce's  Journal  v.  1.  pa.  158.  i: 

Dr.  William  Meade,^  from  a  regular  process  of 

^  See  the  appendix  to  Dr.  Meade's  Experimental  Efiquiry  int«  . 
the  ChemicarProperties  and  Medicinal  Qualities  of  the  Ballitoa 
and  Saratoga  VVAters.  ^ 


■^' 


f  ;f 


TTjs 


> 


\l 


ik 


'%^- 


m 


^•dt^■■ 


S^      TOUR  BETWEEN   HARTFORD  AND  ^VIBBC. 

adpfysis  infers,  that  the  Lebanon  Spring  contains, 


in  two  quarts  of  the  water— 
Muriat  of  Lime, 
Muriat  of  Soda, 
Sulphat  of  Lime,    - 
Carbonat  of  Lime, 

Total, 


1  grain. 
13-4 
1  1-2 
3-4 


The  aeriform  fluids  in  two  quarts  of  the  water,  he 
states  thus : — 

Azotic  gas,  (or  nitrogen,)  13  cubic  inches. 
Atmospheric  air,     -    -     8    do.    do. 

21 

Dr.  Meade  remarks  that  the  Lebanon  water  is 
purer  than  most  natural  waters,  and  purer  than  the 
contiguous  springs,  which  flow  from  the  same  hill. 
Its  temperature  appears  therefore  to  be  the  only  pe- 
culiarity to  which  any  medical  virtues  can  be  attacli- 
*  ed.     It  is  beyond  a  doubt,  that  tepid  waters,  not  | 
stronger  in  mineral  ingredients  than  the  Lebsfhon 
water,  do  produce  salutary  effects,  as  at  Bristol  and 
Button  in  England.     The  Buxton  water  is  very | 
similar  to>  that  at  Lebanon ;  it  is  very  copious  and  a 
little  warmer.     Being  there  some  years  since,  I  was 
forcibly  struck  with  the  abundance  and  purity  of  the  I 
water  and  with  the  fine  atmosphere  and  features  of  | 
the  country.     As  to  picturesque  scenery,  it  is  how- 
ever inferior  to  New-Lebanon,  and  it  is  probable 


:.  ,3** 


\  'I 


TOVR  DETWKILN   HARTFORD  AND  ^UKBEC.      6$' 

tliat  there  is  not  a  mineral  spring  in  the  world,  ||ir- 
rounded  by  finer  landscapes  than  this. 

Not  expecting,  when  I  left  home,  to  visit  any  min- 
eral spring,  I  had  to  regret  that  I  had  no  reagents  or 
instruments  of  analysis  with  me.  I  brought  only 
instruments  necessary  for  mineralogical  and  geolo- 
gical observations. 

The  gas  which  issues  from  the  spring,  is  s^  >  copi- 
ous, that  I  could  easily  collect  it  in  the  usual  man- 
ner, in  bottles  filled  with  the  water  of  the  fountain, 
and  inverted  in  it,  with  funnels  in  then*  mouths. 

I  ascertained  that  the  gas  readily  extinguishes  u 
candle — smoke,  mingled  with  it,  descends  to  the  hot 
torn  of  the  vessel,  and  does  not  rest  u^,on  it,  as  in  car- 
bonic acid ;  the  gas  docs  not  readily  run  from  the 
mouth  of  an  inverted  bottle,  on  to  a  burning  can- 
dle, but  if  the  candle  be  held  close  to  the  mouth  o^' 
the  bottle,  it  is  extinguished  as  the  gas  passes  out. 
I  am  therefore  of  opinion  with  Dr.  Meade,  that  the 
gas  is  azot.     Indeed,  as  he  justly  remarks,  the  fact 
that  the  water  is  not  acidulous  or  sparklins:,  although 
the  gas  that  rises  through  it  is  very  abur  iant;  that 
it  does  not  trouble  lime  water,  and  is  not  at  all  ab- 
sorbed by  it,  and  that  it  does  not  redden  litmus  pa- 
per, sufficiently  proves  that  the  ^a ;  contains  no  car- 
bonic acid.* 

*  The  proprietor  of  the  spring,  furnished  me  with  a  quantity  of 
the  solid  jnn(ter,  deposited  by  boiling  the  water  it;  lea  kettles. 
I  find  titat  it  dissolves  in  nitric  acid  with  great  rapidity,  nnd  with 
a  very  active  effervescence,  leaving  onl^  a  small  residuum.    The 

6 


\ 


I//  A* 


I  ♦ 


■'« 


.   M 


m. 


:!|ifi" 


.^AHl'^ii 


n^i 

tpii. 

1  - 

r-!;i 

r 

■  i':.  .■;•;■ 

1 

■  I-:,'!!':, 


fl 


^8   TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  qUEBEC. 

<-  .lizot  probably  imparts  no  virtues  to  mineral  wa- 
ters, as  it  is  insoluble  in  water.  Still  it  is  found  in 
many,  especially,  of  the  warm  springs.  Bath  water, 
which  boils  up  with  great  agitation,  owes  this  move- 
ment in  part  to  azot,  but,  perhaps  more  to  the  aque- 
ous vapour,  for  the  water  is  at  the  temperature  of 
116*^  of  Fah.  when  it  first  emerges,  and  is  probably 
much  hotter  below. 

We  know  that  this  spring  has  flowed,  thus  hot, 
more  than  two  thousand  years ;  what  is  the  cause  f 
There  are  no  relics  of  volcanoes  here,  nor  other 
marks  of  subterranean  heat,  except  those  afforded 
by  the  water  itself. 

SCENERY  OF  NEW-LEBANON. 

Had  this  remarkable  place  been  situated  in  £u- 
rope,  tourists  would  have  pronounced  its  panegyric, 
and  poets  would  have  made  it  famous,  as  Windsor 
or  Richmond  Hill,  or  as  the  little  Isle  in  Loch  Ka- 
trin. 

Few  places  have  fallen  within  my  observation, 
which  combine  both  the  grand  and  the  beautiful,  in 

■/     " 

saturated  solution  is  intensely  hitter — gives  a  dense  precip 
itate  with  fluat  of  ammonia,  and  with  sulphuric  acid  becomes 
!<olid,  so  that  the  glass  was  inverted  without  dropping  a  particle 
This  residuum  from  the  evaporation  of  the  water  in  the  tea  kct 
ties,  is  tasteless — insoluble  in  water,  and  remains  unaltered,  ever. 
in  a  damp  air.  All  these  facts  show  it  to  be  principally  corbonat 
of  lima :  the  muriats  which  Dr.  Meade  found,  would  of  cours«  he 
removed  by  the  boiliug  water. — May,  1820. 


■»r-^ 


#^ 


3  cause  r 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.   60 

a  higher  degree,  than  the  basin  of  New-Lebanon. 
Embosomed  in  mountains,  (at  this  time  capped  with 
dark  clouds,)  which,  with  their  lofty  and  apparently 
impassable  barriers,  seem  to  shut  it  out  from  the  rest 
of  the  world— verdant  and  beautiful  in  its  slopes, 
and  in  the  plain  by  which  they  are  terminated,  and  ex- 
hibiting a  village,  with  a  handsome  church  and  steeple 
in  the  bottom  of  the  basin,  it  powerfully  brought  to 
my  recollection,  the  valley  of  Castleton,  in  the  Peak 
of  Derbyshire.  Between  the  two,  there  is  certainly 
a  strikiiig  resemblanpe,  but  with  some  points  of  dis- 
parity. 

The  Derbyshire  mountains  are  more  lofty,  and  of 
course,  more  grand — those  of  New-Lebanon,  while 
they  are  cultivated,  in  some  places  to  their  summits, 
are  also  extensively  crowned  with  forests,  while  the 
Derbyshire  mountains  are  naked  as  a  hillock,  shorn 
by  the  scythe.  Tlie  New-Lebanon  scenery  resem- 
bles also,  that  in  the  vicinity  of  the  celebrated  springs 
of  Bath  in  England. 

At  New-Lebanon,  the  principal  lodging  house  is 
situated  on  the  slope  of  one  of  the  high  hills  and 
near  its  summit.  The  view  from  the  gallery,  in  the 
front  of  this  house,  is  very  fine,  and  much  resembles 
that  from  the  Crescent  at  Bath ;  from  the  latter,  you 
see  a  beautiful  amphitheatre  of  hills,  highly  cultiva- 
ted and  verdant,  and  possessing  more  wood  than  is 
common  in  England,  but  the  view  at  Bath,  although 
perhaps  more  beautiful,  from  cultivation,  is  less  ex- 
tensive, and  less  magnificent  and  grand,  than  that  &t 
New-Lebanon.  ^ 


6(1   TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


?.-'        i- 


I    i: 


^ 


I.  P 


^'lii- 


m%  I 


On  the  side  of  the  New-Lebanon  basin,  opposite 
to  the  spring,  at  the  distance  of  two  miles  and  an 
half^  upon  the  declivity  of  the  mountain,  and  near 
its  base,  is  the  Shaker's  village,  which,  with  its  green 
^Ms  and  neat  houses,  is  a  pleasing  object,  in  the 
outline  of  the  picture.  Nearer  still,  (as  I  have  al- 
ready remarked,)  and  in  the  very  bottom  of  the  ba- 
'sin,  is  the  handsome  village  of  New-Lebanon,  com- 
posed of  neat  white  houses,  and  a  pretty  church, 
with  a  spire ;  and  all  around,  are  the  grand  slopes  of 
mountains  which  limit  the  view  on  every  side,  and 
present  fields,  woods  and  rocks,  and  bold  ridges,  up- 
on which  the  clouds  often  repose. 

Bristol  spring  in  England  is  surrounded  by  the 
fine  scenery  of  the  Avon,  and  the  romantic  rock  of 
St.  Vincent  impends  over  it,  with  a  good  degree  of 
grandeur,  but  even  this  scene  is  very  limited  com- 
pared with  that  of  New-Lebanon,  and  when  at  the 
Bristol  spring,  the  observer  is  in  a  deep  channel,  by 
the  side  of  the  river,  and  shut  out  completely  from 
all  prospect.  From  the  top  of  St.  Vincent's  rock, 
and  from  every  part  of  Clifford,  and  the  other  emi- 
nent ces  around  Bristol,  and  indeed  from  the  upper 
street  of  the  town  itself,  there  are  the  finest  views. 

The  iamous  Springs  at  Ballston  and  Saratoga,  are 
situated  in  disagreeable  low  bottoms,  with  scarcely 
any  advantages  of  scenery,  and  with  no  attractions, 
except  those  presented  by  the  medicinal  powers  of 
the  waters,  by  good  cheer,  and  by  genteel  compa- 
ny ;  the  first  of  these  advantages  is  very  great,  and 


:  'm 


i_ 


TOUB  BETVri  .  /  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.   61 

those  springs  are,  without  doubt,  one  of  the  greatest 
natural  bounties  of  heaven  to  this  country.  The 
other  two  may  be  enjoyed  at  New-Lebanon,  v^here 
we  found  pleasant  company,  and  a  house  extremely 
comfortable,  in  every  thing  except  the  beds,  whieh 
were  very  hard. 

For  those  who  wish  to  enjoy  fine  rural  scenery, 
bold,  picturesque  and  beautiful,  with  the  best  moun- 
tain air,  and  such  advantages  to  health,  as  this  copi- 
ous fountain  presents,  nothing  can  be  better  in  its 
kind  than  New-Lebanon.  Its  waters  must  be  ad- 
mirable for  bathing. 

'  New-Lebanon  spring  is  twelve  miles  from  Lenox 
and  seventy  miles  from  Hartford. 

It  is  situated  just  within  the  limits  of  the  State  of 
New- York,  and  very  near  both  the  states  of  Massa- 
chusetts and  Connecticut.  >A  stone  similar  to  a 
mile  stone,  denoting  the  boundary  line  between  the 
states  of  Massachusetts  and  New-York,  occurs  on 
the  slope  of  the  mountain,  as  we  descend  toward 
the  village  of  the  Shakers. 

In  the  valley  of  New-Lebanon,  there  is  a  family 
vault  which  struck  us  on  entering  the  village.  It  is 
a  neat  cemetery,  covered  by  a  high  mound  ;  a  mar- 
ble table  lies  on  the  top,  arid  (what  constitutes  its 
singularity)  it  has  a  flag  staff,  similar  to  those  in 
forts;  we  supposed  it  must  be  a  mausoleum  for 
some  military  man,  but  we  were^  informed  that  it 
was  the  vault  of  a  private  faipilyi^  the  name  of 

6  *  *- 


I?'- 


,;;Syi* 


-;« 


M 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTrORD  AND  (^tJSBEC. 

Hand,  and  that  whenever  any  member  of  the  family 
dies,  a  black  flag  is  hoisted  on  the  flag  staff. 

raOE  TO  ALBANY. 

The  morning  after  our  arrival  at  the  New-Leba- 
non spring,  the  equinoctial  storm,  which  had  never 
deserted  us,  poured  literally  floods  of  rain ;  they  ran 
in  torrents,  down  the  steep  hills  of  New-Lebanon, 
while  the  black  clouds  and  the  clusters  of  vapour  hung 
over  the  tops  and  around  the  sides  of  the  mountains, 
or,  driven  by  the  gusts  of  wind,  swept  with  gloomy 
grandeur,  along  the  frowning  ridges.  It  appeared 
as  if  we  were  imprisoned  for  the  day,  and  we  solac- 
ed ourselves  with  the  pleasant  society,  of  the  small 
but  intelligent  party,  which  we  found  at  the  Springs. 

About  10  o'clock,  the  rain  so  far  ceased,  that  we 
resumed,  and  afterwards  continued  our  ride,  al- 
though rain  and  sun-shine,  and  alternate  currents  of 
hot  and  cold  air,  made  it  a  day  of  singular  fluctua- 
tion. 

Stephen-Town,  Nassau  and  Schodack,  through 
which  we  passed,  presented  nothing  particularly  in- 
teresting. At  Greenbush,  we  observed  the  exten- 
sive barracks,  erected  during  the  late  war,  for  the 
accommodation  of  the  United  States'  troops ;  being 
white,  and  standing  upon  elevated  ground,  they  make 
ft  pleasing  appearance — aside  from  the  pensive  sen- 
5ations,  associated  wi^  all  military  spectacles.  Near 
tU!^ river,  we  examined  an  abandoned  pit,  dug  for 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.   63 


fioal,  and  a  sulphureous  mineral  water ;  the  latter 
has  been  considerably  spoken  of,  but,  on  the  pres- 
ent occasion,  was  weak  both  in  taste  and  smell,  ow- 
ing, I  suppose,  to  the  recent  heavy  rains,  and  to  its 
being  left  without  any  shelter  to  protect  it  from  the 
weather.  Some  winters  since,  a  bottle  of  it  which 
had  been  brought  to  me,  happened  to  freeze,  and 
broke,  when  the  offensive  hepatic  gas  filled  the 
house  to  the  no  small  annoyance  of  the  family. 

From  the  barracks,  we  descended  a  considerable 
hill,  before  we  reached  the  bank  of  the  river ;  a  horse- 
boat  conveyed  us  over  the  Hudson,  and  before  night, 
we  were  safely  landed  at  a  very  comfortable  house 
in  the  city  of  Albany. 

GEOLOGY. 

At  New-Lebanon,  a  few  miles  east  of  the  springs, 
the  geology  of  the  country  undergoes  a  great  change, 
and  the  whole  tract,  thence  to  Albany,  is,  without 
doubt,  a  transition  country.  Bluish  grey  transition 
Hmc  stone,  in  immense  strata,  traversed  by  white 
veins  of  calcareous  spar,  is  found  at  New-Lebanon. 
Its  texture  is  nearly  compact,  its  structure  slaty,  and 
its  inclination  to  the  horizon  considerable.  Grau- 
wacke  makes  its  appearance,  about  seven  miles  on 
the  road  towards  Albany,  and  continues  to  be  abun- 
dant at  intervals.  Common  transition  slate  and  a 
red  slaty  rock  of  a  very  fine,  ^d  indeei^  aVnost  im- 
perceptible grain,  apparently  between  a  sand  stHk 


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64   TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORB  AND  QVEBKe^ 


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and  a  slate  are  abundant.  The  strata  on  the  road 
are  in  many  places,  much  decomposed.  The  slate 
thrown  out  of  the  pit  at  Greenbush,  where  the  ex- 
cavation was  made  for  coal,  is  evidently  transition 
slate,  having  often  a  tortuous  appearance  and  a  glis- 
tening surface,  as  if  covered  with  a  varnish  or  with 
plumbago.  It  is  just  such  slate  as  is  found  in  con- 
nection with  the  anthracite  of  Rhode-Island.  It  ap- 
pears therefore,  that  good  bituminous  coal  is  rot  to 
be  expected  at  Greenbush ;  the  incombustible  coal, 
the  anthracite,  may  indeed  be  found,  but  it  would 
be  much  less  valuable  than  the  other  kind. 

I  have  several  times  had  occasion  to  remark,  that 
the  picturesque  features  of  a  country  depend  very 
much  on  its  geology.  This  remark  is  particularly 
verified  by  the  country  just  spoken  of.  After  leav- 
ing New-Lebanon,  we  soon  lose  that  bold  scenery 
which  I  have  described,  and  which  often  so  eminent- 
ly characterizes  primitive  countries.  The  transition 
lime-stone,  I  am  aware,  is  occasionally  Alpine  in 
its  appearance,  as  in  the  Peak  of  Derbyshire,  and  it 
is  so  in  the  New-Lebanon  basin. 

But,  the  transition  and  slaty  formation,  which  im- 
mediately succeeds,  presents  hills  of  moderate  el- 
evation, without  ridges,  peaks,  defiles  or  deep  hol- 
lows, and  bounded  by  gentle  outlines  and  large 
curves.  It  would  be  too  much  to  say,  that  this  is  the 
invariable  character  of  transition  countries,  but  com- 
ared  with  the  primitive  in  the  immediate  vicinity, 

clieve  they  usually  possess  this  appearance. 


■■.i-i 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


65 


We  must  not,  however,  insist  with  too  much  rigor 
upon  the  appHcation  of  the  systematic  arrangements 
of  other  countries  to  this.  Many  parts  of  our  prim- 
itive formations,  occupy  a  low  level,  and  some  of 
our  primitive  slaty  rocks  are  not  highly  incHned  in 
relation  to  the  horison.* 

The  ridges  of  greenstone  trap  at  Greenfield,  in 
Massachusetts,  are  higher  than  the  granite  of  North- 
field  and  Montague,  in  the  same  vicinity,  and  atLev- 
erett,  the  granite  is  low,  and  the  puddingstone  rises 
to  the  heighth  of  five  or  six  hundred  feet,  and  far 
above  the  granite.  The  Sugar-Loaf  Mountain,  in 
the  southern  part  of  Deerfield,  is  composed  of  con- 
glomercte,  and  is  five  hundred  feet  high  ahove  the 
contiguous  plain.  Mount  Toby,  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river  in  Sunderland,  is  between  eight  and 
nine  hundred  feet  high,  and  these  hills  are  higher 
than  the  greenstone,  granite  and  other  rocks  in  that 
region. f 

ALBANY. 

Albany  contains  from  ten  to  twelve  thousand  in- 
habitants, and  is  the  second  city  in  the  State  (we 
might  almost  say  empire,)  of  New-York.  Its  lati- 
tude is  42°  38'  N. ;  it  is  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles 
from  New- York,  and  one  hundred  sixty-four  from 

*  This  is  tht  fact  with  vast  ledges  of  gneiss  on  the  southern  and 
eastern  shores  of  lake  Chatnplain.  % 

t  See  Mr.  Hitchcock's  account  of  Deerfield,  Sec— AraCT 
Tournai  of  Science,  Sic.-— Vol  F. 


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06   TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


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Boston.  It  rises,  for  the  most  part,  rapidly  from 
the  river,  and  exhibits  a  very  handsome  appearance 
from  the  Greenbush  side.  The  greater  part  of  the 
population,  however,  is  on  the  flat  ground,  immedi- 
ately contiguous  to  the  river,  where  the  Dutch,  who 
founded  the  town,  first  commenced  building,  agree- 
ably to  their  established  habits  in  Holland.  In- 
stances are  innumerable,  where  people  continue 
from  habit,  what  was  at  first  begun  from  necessity, 
and  this  seems  to  have  been  the  fact  in  the  present 
case.  The  town  extends  about  two  miles  north 
and  south,  on  the  river,  and  in  the  widest  part, 
nearly  one  mile  east  and  west.  It  is  perfectly  com- 
pact— closely  built,  and  as  far  as  it  extends,  has  the 
appearance  of  a  great  city.  It  has  numerous  streets, 
lanes,  and  alleys,  and  in  all  of  them,  there  is  the 
same  closeness  of  building,  and  the  same  city-like 
appearance. 

The  principal  streets  and  especially  Market, 
State  and  Pearl  streets,  are  spacious,  and  the  hous- 
es in  general,  are  handsome  and  commodious ;  ma- 
ny are  large,  and  a  few  are  splendid.  State-street 
is  very  wide,  and  rises  rapidly  from  the  .river,  up  a 
considerably  steep  hill.  The  Capitol  stands  at  the 
head  of  it.  This  is  a  large  and  handsome  building 
of  stone,*  furnished*  with  good  rooms  for  the  gpvern- 

*1  could  not  but  regret  that  the  tessellated  roarble  pavement  of 
the%esfibu1e,  otherwise  very  bandsame,  was  shamefully  dirtied  by 
tobacco  spittle  :  such  a  thing  would  not  be  suffered  in  Europe 
It  is  however,  unfortunately,  only  a  sample  of  the  too  general 


•,*«■ 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.   67 

lent  and  courts  of  law;  in  the  decorations  and  furn* 

liture  of  some  of  these  apartments,  there  is  a  good 

Idegree  of  elegance,  and  even    some   splendor.— 

'here  is  also  a  State  Library,  just  begun ;  it  doBS 

lot  yet  contain  one  thousand  volumes,  but  they  are 

rell  selected,  and  a  fund  of  five  hundred  dollars 

)er  annum  is  provided  for  its  increase,  besides  three 

thousand  dollars  granted  by  the  legislature  to  com- 

Inence  the  collection. 

The  view  from  the  Balcony  of  the  Capitol  is 
rich  and  magnificent :  the  mountains  of  Vermont 
md  of  the  Catskill  are  the  most  distant  objects,  and 
[he  banks  of  the  river  are  very  beautiful,  on  account 
}f  the  fine  verdure  and  cultivation,  and  of  the  nu- 
lerous  pretty  eminences,  which  bound  its  mead- 

)WS.  * 

The  Academy  of  Albany,  situated  on  the  Capi- 
|ol  Hill,  is  a  noble  building,  of  Jersey  free  stone. 

although  it  has  (as  stated  to  me  by  Dr.  B ) 

^ost  ninety  thousand  dollars,  only  the  lower  rooms 
^re  finished.  Schools  are,  however,  maintained,  in 
t,  for  nearly  two  hundred  children,  and  it  is  pros- 
perous, under  the  able  direction  of  Dr.  T.  R.  Beck, 
iiid  of  several  assistant  teachers. 

This  Institution  was  erected  at  the  expence  of 
lie  city  of  Albany,  and  is  honourable  to  its  munifi- 
ieiicc,  although  a  plainer  building,  which,   when 

peatment  of  public  buildings,  and  places  in  the  United  States, 
id  constitutes  no  peculiar  \Qp\c  of  reproacii,  in  this  instance;  but 
is  particularly  odeusive  in  so  fine  a  building. 


W^^M 


68   TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORS  AND  qVEBEC. 

completely  finished,  would  have  cost  much  less 
money,  would  probably  have  been  equally  useful, 
and  might  have  left  them,  out  of  their  ninety  thou- 
sand dollars,  a  handsome  fund,  in  addition  to  what 
they  now  possess. 

There  is  a  large  and  convenient  brick  building 
for  a  Lancasterian  school,  but  I  did  not  go  into  it. 

Among  the  interesting  things  of  Albany  is  the 
seat  of  the  late  General  Schuyler,  situated'  quite  in 
the  country,  at  the  south  end  of  the  town.  I^  is 
memorable,  principally,  from  its  historical  associa* 
tions.  It  was  the  seat  of  vast  hospitality  and  tlie 
resort  of  the  great  men  of  the  revolution. 

Cven  Gen.  Burgoyne,  with  his  principal  officers, 
was  lodged  and  entertained  there,  after  his  surren 
der,  although  he  had  devastated  Gen.  Schuyler's 
beautiful  estate  at  Saratoga,  nnd  burned  his  fine 
country  seat.  k 

The  house  of  the  late  Gen.  Scmiyler,  is  spacioiii 
and  in  its  appearance,  venerable;  it  has,  long  since, 
passed  away  from  the  family,  and  is  now  possesse^j 
by  a  furrier. 

At  the  opposite,  or  northern  extremity  of  Alba 
ny,  and  almost  equally  in  the  country,  is  situated 
the  seat  of  the  patroon.  Gen.  Stephen  Van  Rensse 
laer.  It  is  well  known,  that  he  possesses  a  vast  pat- 
rimonial estate  of  forty  miles  square,  lying  in  th 
vicinity  of  Albany,  which  has  descended,  unbrokei 
from  his  early  American  ancestors.  Such  a  ph 
nomenon,  in  a  republican  country,  is  very  remark* 


TOUR  BETWEEN  UAKTIOllU  AND  Hl^KBEC 


69 


ble,  and  cannot  fail,  in  spite  of  our  early  prejudices 
and  the  strong  bias  of  national  feelings,  to  excite  a 
degree  of  admiration,  if  not  of  veneration.  We  are 
still  more  disposed  to  indulge  these  feelings,  when 
we  find  the  hereditary  possession  of  such  wealth, 
associated  with  distinguished  excellence,  in  public 
and  private  life,  with  the  most  amiable  and  unas- 
[surning  manners,  and  with  a  princely,  although  dis- 
I criminating  liberality. 

The  house  (which  was  built  by  the  father  of  the 
j present  patroon,)  is  a  palace.     It  stands  on  the  flat 
ground,  hy  the  river,  and  looks  down  market  street, 
[which  here  terminates  abruptly.     The  house  has  in 
[the  rear,  nothing  but  green  fields  and  beautiful  ru- 
|ral  scenes.     It  is  embowered  in  groves,  and  shrub- 
bery, and  reminded  me  powerfully,  of  some  of  the 
fine  villas  in  Holland,  to  which,  both  in  situation 
nid  appearance,  it  bears  a  strong  resemblance. 

Among  the  gentry  and  professional  and  literary 
^nen  of  Albany,  there  are  individuals  of  distinguish- 
>d  eminence.     But,  eminent  men,  of  our  own  time 
ind  rountry,  are  rather  too  near,  for  much  minute- 
iiess  of  delineation.     Were  it  not  for  the  restraint 
|hus  imposed  by  delicacy,  h  would  be  a  task,  by  no 
means  ungrateful,  to  draw  likenesses  from  the  life, 
md  to  exhibit  the  combined  effect  of  talent,  learn- 
ing, and  social  virtues.     An  American  in  Europe, 
Is  free  from  this  embarrassment,  and  should  he 
[here  discover  a  mind  of  amazing  vigor  and  activi- 
-alvvays  glowing — always  on  the  wing — replete 

7 


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70       TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AN-    t^ZBEC. 


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with  various  and  extensive  knowledge,  flowing  out 
ill  the  most  rapid,  ardent  and  impressive  eloquence,! 
while  simplicity  and  familiarity  of  manners  were  as-{ 
sociatcd  with  a  high  minded  integrity,  and  indepen- 
dence, he  would  fearlessly  pronounce  the  possessor] 
of  such  qualities  an  original  ftnd  captivating  man. 

Albany  is  the  great  thoroughfare  and  resort  ofl 
the  vast  western  regions  of  the  S.tate  ;  its  streets  are 
very  bustling  ;  it  is  said  that  two  thousand  WQggoiis| 
sometimes  pass  up  and  down  State-street  in  a  day; 
it  must  hereafter  become  a  great  inland  city. 

It  stands  near  the  head  of  sloop  navigation  andl 
of  tide  water :  sloops  of  eighty  tons  come  up  to  tiiel 
town,  besides  the  steam-boats  of  vastly  greater  tonj 
nage,  but  of  a  moderate  draught  of  water. 

In  addition  to  the  public  buildings,  that  have  becil 
already  mentioned,  Albany  has  a  City-Hall,  a  JailJ 
an  Aims-House,  a  State  Arsenal,  two  Market-Housl 
es,  four  Banks,  a  Museum,  eleveniiouses  of  publici 
worship,  and  a  public  Library  containing  about  fotii| 
thousand  volumer.* 

The  private  library  of  Chancellor  Kent,  doeJ 
honour  to  him  and  to  learning.    It  contains  betweeJ 
two  and  three  thousand  volumes  of  choice  bookd 
The  collection  on  jurisprudence,  embraces  not  oiilj 
the  English,  but  the  civil  and  French  law.     It  con 
tains  Latin,  Greek,  English  and  French  Classics 
belles  lettres—history— biography—travels,  and  book 
in  most  branches  of  human  learning.  The  numerou 

■%^  Worcester^!  Gazetteer. 


:i:!''.!. 


.•^if^ 


TOUR  BfiTWfiEN  HARTFORD  AND  (QUEBEC.       71 


inanusci  ipt  remarks  and  annotations,  on  the  blank 
leaves  and  margins  of  the  books,  evince  that  they 
arc  not  a  mere  pageant,  and  at  a  future  day  will  form 
Isomo  of  the  most  interesting  of  our  literary  relics. 

The  situation  of  Albany  is  salubrious,  and  emi- 
liicntly  happy,  in  relation  to  the  surrounding  coun- 
liiy,  which  is  populous  and  fertile.  No  one  can 
lostimate  the  importance  of  the  regions  west,  which, 
|in  their  progressive  increase,  and  aided  by  the  stu- 
)endous  canal,  now  in  progress,  must  pour  a  great 
])art  of  their  treasures  through  this  channel. 

Albany  has  been  memorable  in  American  histo- 
ry. It  was  (he  rendezvous,  and  the  point  of  de- 
parture, for  most  of  those  armii^s,  which,  whether 
sent  by  the  mother  country,  or,  raised  by  the  oolo- 
lies  themselves,  for  the  conquest  of  the  Gallo- 
Lmerican  dominions,  and  of  the  savages,  so  often, 
luring  the  middle  periods  of  the  last  century,  exci- 
ted, and  more  diiii  once,  disappointed  the  hopes  of 
|[lie  empire.  It  was  scarcely  less  conspicuous  in  the 
game  manner,  during  the  war  of  the  revolution  and 
luring  the  late  war  with  Great  Britain.  Few  places, 
)n  this  side  of  the  Atlantic,  have  seen  more  of  mar- 
tial array,  or  heard  more  frequently  the  dreadful 
p  note  of  preparation."  Still,  (except  perhaps  in 
some  of  the  early  contests,  with  the  Aborigines)  it 
las  never  seen  an  enemy;  a  hostile  army  has 
lever  encamped  before  it ;  nor  have  its  women  and 
children  ever  seen,   "  the  smoke  of  an   enemv's 

fjit-,,.-'  « 

^n  -  ■■  ■  --^-^ 

camp.  '^^  **     « 


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7^   TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

More  than  once,  however,  has  a  foreign  enemy, 
after  fixing  his  destination  for  Albany,  been  either 
arrested,  and  turned  back  in  his  career,  or  visited 
the  desired  spot  in  captivity  and  disgrace. 

The  French  invasions  from  Canada  never  came 
nearer  than  Schenectady.*  In  1777,  the  porten- 
tous advances  of  the  British  armies  from  Quebec, 
and  of  the  British  fleets  and  armies,  frum  New- 
York,  threatening  a  junction  at  Albany,  and  filling 
the  new  States  with  alarm,  and  the  Cabinet  of  St. 
James  with  premature  exultation,  met  a  most  sig- 
nal discomfiture. 

Albany  was  the  seat  of  the  great  convention,  held 
in  1754,  for  the  purpose  of  bringing  about  a  con- 
federation of  the  Colonies,  for  their  mutual  def  mce 
and  general  benefit,  and  it  has  been  signalized,  by 
not  a  few  other  meetings,  for  momentous  public 
purposes. 

We  passed  a  part  of  three  days  in  Albany,  and 
were  not  without  strong  inducements  to  protract  oui 
stay.  The  public  houses  are  excellent,  afford- 
ing every  accommodation  and  comfort,  with  that 
quiet  and  retirement,  and  that  prompt  civility,  so 
commonly  found  in  English  Inns,  and  which,  until 
within  a  few  years,  were  so  rare  in  those  of  Ameri- 
ca. Polished  and  enlightened  society,  and  the 
courtesies  of  hospitality  held  out  ?jlill  stronger  at- 

*  III  1(590,  Schenectady  was  suddenly  assaulted,  in  the  night, 
Ity  the  French  and  Indians,  and  its  miserable  inhabitants  either 
massacred,  or  dras;e;cdj  in  tlie  depth  ©f  winter,  into  rap!  "'ity 


>.s^ 


m 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.   ^S 

I 

tractions,  but  our  allotments  of  time  did  not  permit 
us  to  remain  any  longer,  and  we  hastened  to  set  oui- 
faces  towards  the  British  dominions. 


BANKS  OF  THE  HUDSON,  ABOVE  ALBANY. 

We  determined  to  go  by  Whitehall,  as  we  wis^ 
cd  to  avail  ourselves,  of  the  rapid  and  comfortablQ 
conveyance,  to  the  confines  of  Canada,  now  estab- 
lished on  Lake  Champlain.  Being  unwilling  how- 
ever, to  pass  rapidly  by,  or  entirely  to  avoid,  all 
the  interesting  objects  on  the  road,  we  adopted  such 
an  arrangement,  as  might  permit  us  to  take  the 
banks  of  the  Hudson  and  Lake  George  in  our 
route.  Indeed,  from  Albany,  upon  the  course  pro- 
posed, every  part  of  our  way  was  to  be  over  classic- 
al ground.  History  sheds  a  deeper  interest  over 
no  portion  of  the  North  American  States.  He  who 
venerates  the  virtues  and  the  valour,  and  commis- 
serates  the  sufferings  of  our  fathers,  and  he,  who 
views,  with  gratitude  and  reverence,  the  deliveran- 
ces which  heaven  has  wrought  for  this  land,  will 
tread  with  awe,  on  every  foot  of  ground  between 
Albany  and  the  northern  lakes. 

We  were  obliged,  on  this  occasion,  to  deny  our- 
selves a  visit  to  Schenectady,  and  its  rising  literary 
institution,  and  to  the  waters  of  Ballston  and  Sara- 
toga.  Leaving  them  therefore  to  the  left,  we  pro- 
ceeded  along  the  banks  of  the  Hudson,  principally 
on  the  western  shore. 


.  ;--'i 


d    1 


:!'1ii 


%A       TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  (tUEBEC. 

'  This  is  a  charming  ride.  The  road  is  very  good, 
and  absolutely  without  a  hill ;  the  river,  often  placid 
and  smooth,  but  sometimes  disturbed  by  a  rocky 
bottom,  is  almost  constantly  in  sight,  and  flows 
through  beautiful  meadows,  which  are  commonly 
bounded,  at  small  distances  from  the  Hudson,  by 
verdant  hills,  of  moderate  height,  and  gentle  de- 
clivity. The  strata  of  rocks  are,  almost  invariably, 
the  transition  slate.  They  present  scarcely  any 
variety.  The  direction  of  the  strata  is  so  nearly 
that  of  the  river,  that  they  form  but  an  inconsidera- 
ble angle  with  it ;  they  often  protrude  their  edges 
into  view,  because  they  have  a  very  high  inclination 
to  the  horizon,  apparently  about  45°,*  or,  perhaps 
in  some  instances,  a  few  degrees  less.  The  rock  is 
easily  broken  up,  and  reduced  to  small  fragments ; 
and  therefore  forms  an  excellent  materia]  for  tlie 
roads.  The  banks  of  the  river  frequently  present  a 
natural  barrier,  formed  by  the  same  kind  of  rock. 
Nearly  six  miles  from  Albany,  we  crossed  the  river 
into  Troy. 


ivt 


i  s;: 


SINGULAR  HORSE  FERRY-BOAT, 

The  ferry-boat  is  of  most  singular  construction. 
A  platform  covers  a  wide  flat  boat.  Underneath 
the  platform,  there  is  a  large  horizontal  solid  wheel, 
which  extends  to  the  sides  of  the  boat ;  and  there 

t  i 

*  1  had  uo  opportunity  to  judgf ,  except  hy  the  eye,  as  we  rode 
Along. 


Klv' 


TOUll  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.       7# 


the  platform,  or  deck,  is  cut  through,  and  removed, 
so  as  to  afford  sufficient  room,  for  two  horses  to 
stand  on  the  flat  surface  of  the  wheel,  one  horse  on 
each  side,  and  parallel  to  the  gunwale  of  the  boat. 
The  horses  are  harnessed,  in  the  usual  manner  for 
teams — the  whiffle  trees  being  attached  to  stout 
iron  bars,  fixed  horizontally,  at  a  proper  height,  into 
uosts,  which  are  a  part  of  the  fixed  portion  of  the 
boat.  The  horses  look  in  opposite  directions,  one 
to  the  bow,  and  the  other  to  the  stern  ;  their  feet 
take  hold  of  channels,  or  grooves,  cut  in  the  wheels, 
ill  the  direction  of  radii  j  they  press  forward,  and,val- 
ihough  they  advance  not,  any  more  than  a  squirrel,  in 
a  revolving  cage,  or  than  a  spit  dog  at  his  work,  their 
feet  cause  the  horizontal  wheel  to  revolve,  in  a  direc- 
tion opposite  to  that  of  their  own  apparent  motion ;  this, 
by  a  connection  of  cogs,  moves  two  vertical  wheels, 
one  on  each  wing  of  the  boat,  and  these  being  con- 
structed like  the  paddle  wheels  of  steam-b  >r«ts,  pro- 
duce the  same  effect,  and  propel  the,  bo  t  sbrwwrd. 
The  horses  are  covered  by  a  roof,  furnished  '^  iih 
curtains,  to  protect  them  in  bad  v;»er*her;  and  do 
not  appear  to  labour  harder  than  cornn^on  draft 
horses,  with  a  heavy  load. 

The  inventor  of  this  boat,  is  Mr.  L\ngdon,  bf 
Whitehall,  and  it  claims  the  important  advantages  of 
simplicity,  cheapness  and  effect.  At  first  vir  tv. 
tiie  labour  appears  like  r.  hardship  upon  the  horses, 
but,  probably  this  is  an  illusion,  as  it  seems  very  im- 
material to  their  comfort,  whether  they  advance  with 


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'Ui       TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

their  load,  or  cause  the  basis,  on  which  they  laboui 
to  recede. 


TROY,  LANSINGBURGH,  AND  WATERFORD. 

Troy,  six  miles  north  of  Albany,  is  a  beaulifui 
city,  handsomely  built,  and  regularly  laid  out ;  it? 
appearance  is  very  neat ;  it  stands  principally  on 
the  flat  ground,  by  the  Hudson — contains  five  thou- 
sand inhabitants — a  court-house,  jail,  market-housp. 
and  two  inks,  a  public  Hbrary,  a  Lancasteriai! 
school,  and  five  places  of  public  worship.  It  has 
an  intelligent  and  polished  population,  and  a  large 
share^pf  wealth.  A  number  of  its  gentlemen  have 
discovered  their  attachment  to  science,  by  the  in- 
stitution of  a  Lyceum  of  Natural  History,  whicli, 
fostered  by  the  activity,  zeal,  and  intelligence  of  its] 
members,  and  of  its  lecturer,  Mr.  Eaton,  promises] 
to  be  a  public  benefit,  and  to  elevate  the  character 
of  the  place. 

Near  it,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  are  ex-| 
tensive  and  beautiful  barracks,  belonging  to  the 
United  States,  with  a  large  park  of  artillery.  Br- 
low  the  town,  are  fine  mill  seats,  on  which  are  al- 
ready established,  several  important  manufactuici, 
for  which  kind  of  employments,  Troy  appears  very 
favourably  situated.  Small  sloops  come  up  to  this 
town,  which,  for  size,  and  importance,  is  the  third, 
or  fourth  in  the  state. 


TOUB  BETWEK3I  ■ARTFO&P  AND  QUEBEC.   t^T 


--*■ 


We  had  to  resret  that  the  arrangements  of  our 
journey  did  not  permit  us  to  pass  as  much  time  in 
Troy,  as,  under  other  circumstances,  would  have 
been  both  useful  and  agreeable. 

Lansinijburgh,  through  which  we  passed,  three 
miles  north  of  Troy,  is  inferior  to  it  in  the  number 
ajid  quality  of  its  buildings.  Its  population  is  not 
far  from  two  thousand.  It  is  a  large  and  handsome 
settlement,  situated,  principally,  on  one  street,  and 
has  an  academy,  a  bank,  and  four"**"  places  of  public 
worship.  Sloops  come  up  to  this  place,  and  it  en- 
ijoys  a  considerable  trade. 

It  was  formerly  more  flourishing,  than  at  present. 
Troy  has,  for  a  good  many  years,  gained  the  pre- 
eminence, and  seems  likely  to  retain  it. 

Waterford  is  a  pretty  village,  of  one  thousand  in- 

ihabitants,  and  stands  on  the  western  bank  of  the 

[Hudson,  at  its  confluence  with  tha  Mohawk,  where 

I  several  islands,  producing  the  appearance  of  several 

I  mouths,  give  diversity  to  a  very  bea'Jtirui  scene.     It 

listen   riiiies  north   of  Albany,      From    the  Lan- 

singburgh  side,  we  crossed  into  it,  over  a  commodi- 

oiis  bridge.     The  name  of  ihis  place,  was   formerly 

Half-Moon  point.     It  is  memorable,  as  having  been 

the  most  southern  point,   to  which  the  American 

army,  under  General  Schuyler,   retreated,  before 

|lhe  then  victorious  General  Burgoyne.     In  the  con- 

liguous  islands,  in  the  mouth  of  the  Mohawk,  they 

took  their  stand,    and   were  preparing  to  form  a 

*  Worcester's  r;azol(eei. 


Sit- 


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78     TOUR  BfiT WEEN  MAntFORO  AST©  QUEBEC. 

camp,  so  strong,  that  their  enemy  would  not  be  able 
to  force  it.  This  was  in  August,  1777.  On  the  I9th 
of  that  month,  General  Schuyler  was  superceded  in 
command  by  General  Gates.  Colonel  Morgan's  re- 
giment of  riilemen,  dispatched  from  the  main  army 
by  General  Washington,  arrived  on  the  23d  ;  and 
on  the  8th  of  September,  the  army  again  turned 
northward,  and  marched  to  Stillwater,  to  face  Gene- 
ral Burgoyne.  From  this  place,  therefore,  we  are  to 
pass  over  the  most  interesting  scenes  of  that  cam- 
paign. 

GENKitAL  BURGOYxNE'S  EXPEDITION. 

Of  that  momentous  period,  I  am  not  now  aboui 
to  re-write  the  history,  which  may  be  found,  per- 
haps, sufficiently  detailed,  in  various  authors.*  But, 
in  travelling  over  ground,  which  has  been  the  scene 
of  memorable  actions,  it  is  both  instructive  and  in- 
teresting, to  advert  concisely,  to  some  of  the  most 
prominent  events. 

In  May,  1775,  Ticonderoga,  and  Crown  Point, 
and  ibo  small  marine  force  on  the  lake,  had  been 
taken  by  surprise,  ly  the  Americans,  led  by  Colonels 
Allen  and  Arnold,  and  thus,  the  command  of  tlio 
lakes  George   and  Champlain,  had  been   acquired 

*  Ramsay's  History  of  the  Aaierican  Revolution,  Gordon's  liiv 
lory,  Marshall's  Life  of  Washington,  Wilkinson's  Memoirs,  j\n- 
nual  Register,  Burgoyne's  State  of  the  Expe*tJiti;>n  from  Caaa 
dn,  foe. 


r| 


TOUK  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.   79 


without  bloodshed,   and  with  comparatively  little 

effort. 

This  opened  the  way  for  the  invasion  of  Canada, 
which  was  undertaken,  in  form,  in  the  summer  of 
1775,  it  being  supposed  that  the  Canadians  were 
disaffected  to  the  British  government,  and  needed 
nothing,  but  the  appearance  of  an  American  army, 
to  induce  a  general  revolt. 

Accordingly,  in  September,  1775,  General  Schuy- 
ler, with  General  Montgomery,  proceeded  to  the  So- 
re! river,  and  took  post  at  the  Isle-aux-Noix,  eight  or 
nine  miles  above  St.  Johns,  arid  eleven  below  the 
[egross  of  the  river  from  Lake  Champlain. 

General  Schuyler  falling  sick,  the  command  4^vol- 
Ived  on  General  Montgomery,  who,  in  the  course  of 
lafew  weeks,  reduced  the  forts  of  St.  Johns  and 
[Chambly,  on  the  river  Sorel,   and  captured  Mon- 
|treal,  and  the  towns  of  Sorel,  and  the  Trois  Revie- 
res,  on  the  St.  Lawrence.     Early  in  December,  he 
formed  a  junction  with  General  Arnold,  who,  in  No- 
vember, arrived  at  Point  Levi,  opposite  to  Quebec, 
kith  the  little  army  which  he  coramlmded,  (having 
traversed  the  hideous  wilderness  between  the  Ken- 
lebec  and  St.   Lawrence  rivers,)  and  the   two  ar- 
^nies  united,  scarcely  equalling  one  thousand  men, 
3roceeded,  in  due  form,  to  invest  Quebec. 

The  siege,  from  the  want  of  heavy  cannon,  pro 

|ng  ineffectual,   they  made  a  desperate  assault,  oa 

i§  last  day  of  December.     This  terminated  in  the 

ill  of  Montgomery,  and  the  defeat  of  the  enter- 


tie  ^ 


m 


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^Hpp'' 


80   TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


t 


pi'ise  ;  the  army,  however,  kept  its  ground,  in  the 
vicinity  of  Quebec,  till  spring,  and  maintained,  part- 1 
ly  a  siege,  and  partly  a  blockade  of  the  place. 

On  the  return  of  spring,  and  the  arrival  of  Britisii  | 
reinforcements,  the  American  army  gradually  retir- 
ed up  the  St.  Lawrence  ;  and,  although  largely  re- 
inforced, from  time  to  time,  till  it  eventually  amount- 
ed to  eight  thousand  men,  it  was  not  able  to  retain  I 
possession  of  the  country ;  but,  by  degrees,  after  I 
various  conflicts,  more  or  less  important,  relinquish- 
ed all  that  had  been  gained,  by  so  much  eiTort  and| 
blood. 

In  June,  1776,  the  evacuation  of  Canada  wasi 
con]||^ete,  and  the  great  objects,  originally  in  view, 
of  uniting  Canada  to  the  states,  and  of  preventind 
invasion  from  that  quarter,  were  entirely  defeated. 
Still,  the  Americans  held  the  command  of  the  lakes, 
and  Sir  Guy  Carleton,  who  commanded  in  Canada, 
made  such  astonishing  efforts  to  prepare  a  navy,i 
that,  by  the  autumn  of  1776,  he  had  a  force  mucli| 
superior  to  that  of  the  Americans. 

A  desperate  conflict  ensued,  in  October  of  thel 
same  year  ;  and  General  Arnold,  who  commandedl 
the  American  flotilla,  although  he  did  every  thinJ 
which  valour  could  accomplish,  witnessed  the  com-| 
plete  destruction  of  this  little  navy. 

Thus  the.  principal  obstacles,  tliat  prevented  tliej 
invasion  of  the  new  States,  feom  Canada,  were  re-| 
moved,  aud  the  tide  of  war,  with  a  powerful  reflux 
was  soon  to  roll  back  ftom  the  North. 


§m 


.•-fiPSs> 


s* 


rOUR    BETWEEN    HARTFORD    AND    (lUEBFC.       8J 

The  troops,  destined  for  the  intended  invasion, 
were  already  in  Canada,  and  General  Burgoyne,  their 
future  commander,  returned  to  England  in  the  au- 
tumn of  1776,  to  digest  the  plan  of  the  intended 
campaign.  By  an  exertion  of  arbitrary  authority, 
lie  was  made  to  supercede  General  Sir  Guy  Carleton, 
who  had  commanded,  with  much  ability,  during  the 
preceding  campaign,  and  whose  only  fault,  in  the 
view  of  the  English  ministry,  was,  probably,  his 
humanity  and  clemency  to  the  Americans ;  his 
magnanimity,  however,  led  him  still  to  do  every 
thing  in  his  power  to  forward  the  service.  In  the 
sprmg  of  1777,  General  Burgoyne  returned  to  Cana- 
da, took  the  command,  and  the  armament  proceeded 
on  its  destination.  "     '         ^^^ 

It  was  led  by  accomplished  and  experienced  offi- 
cers ; — it  was  furnished  with  a  most  formidable  train 
of  brass  artillery,  and  with  all  the  apparatus,  stores, 
and  equipments,  which  the  nature   of  the  service 
[required,  and  which  the  art  of  man  had  invented. 
I  Veteran  corps  of  the  best  troops  of  Britain  and 
Germany,  formed  almost  the  whole  of  this  dreaded 
I  army,  while  Canadians,  and  American  loyalists,  fur- 
nished it  with  rangers,  scouts,  and  spies,  and  a  nu- 
merous array  of  savages,  with  their  own  dress,  and 
weapons,  and  with  their  own  characteristic  ferocity, 
increased  the  terrors  of  its  approach.  Itnurnbered,ac- 
Icording  to  common  estimation,  ten  thousand  strong, 
lincluding  every  descnption  of  force ;  an  army,  which, 
jconsidering  the  theatre  of  .action,  was  equal  to  ten 

8 


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82        T OUU  BETWEKN   HAUTFOllD  AND  ClU£B£C. 

limes  that  number  in  the  or.linar,  wars  of  Europe. 
It  is  probable,  however,  that  this  force  was  some- 
what overrated,  by  the  Americans,  as  the  regular 
troops  did  not  exceed,  (according  to  the  statement 
of  the  British  officers,)  seven  thousand  men.  Un- 
molested in  its  progress,  from  St.  John's,  up  the 
lake,  it  landed  and  invested  Ticonderoga  on  tin 
first  and  second  days  of  July. 

This  post,  the  key  of  the  North,  had  not  been  at- 
tempted by  Sir  Guy  Carleton,  after  the  destruction 
of  the  American  flotilla,  in  the  preceding  October. 
It  had,  in  the  mean  time,  been  strengthened  by  ad- 


ditional works,  and  men,  and  the  command  of  it 
comiHitted  to  General  St.  Clair,  an  officer  of  the  high- 
est ^landing.  The  country  looked  to  him  for  a  vig- 
orous defence,  and  expected  that  he  would  stem  the  | 
tide  of  invasion,  and  fix  bwmds  to  its  proud  bil- 
lows. But,  that  country,  little  knew  the  really  fee- 1 
ble,  and  ill  provided  state  of  the  garrison,  and  its 
utter  incompetency,  to  contend  with  the  formidabli 
army  by  which  it  was  now  invested.  Had  it  been 
even  much  stronger  than  it  was,  its  strength  would 
have  been  rendered  unavailing,  by  the  unexpected 
occupancy  of  Sugar  Loaf  Hill,  or  Mount  Defiance, 
hitherto  deemed  inaccessible,  and  equally  neglect- 
ed, by  all  previous  commanders,  whether  Frencli,! 
British  or  Americans,  and  had  the  latter  nowi 
thought  proper  to  possess  it,  they  could  not  have! 
spared  troops  for  the  purpose.  »From  this  completelyl 


% 


rOVH  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  (iVEBEG.       Q4 

■*■  -  •      '  ^  ■- 

commanding,  and  very  contiguous  position,*  General  - 
Uiirgoyne  was  already  prepared,  to  pour  down  into 
the  garrison,  a  certain  and  deadly  fire  from  his  ar- 
tillery ;  while,  not  an  effective  shot  could  be  re- 
turned. ^ 

The  Eagle,  perched  in  the  covert  of  the  rock, 
was  poising  his  wings  to  dart  upon  the  de- 
ftMiceless  prey,  that  was  crouching  neath  him, 
and  nothing  but  precipitate  flight  t  ad  save  the 
victim.  Accordingly,  on  the  night  of  the  fifth  of 
July,  Ticonderoga  was  abandoned  :  the  baggage, 
stores,  hospital,  ordnance  and  moveable  provisions 
were  dispatched  to  Skeensborough,  by  water,  in  the 
little  American  flotilla,  while  the  main  body  jpf  the 
garrison,  having  crossed  the  lajke  to  Fort  Indepen- 
tleiice,  defiled  to  the  left,  into  Vermont.  They 
wore  closely  pursued  by  a  detachment  of  the  BritisI), 
under  General  Frazer,  and  of  the  Germans  under 
fieneralReidesel,  who,  the  next  day,  brought  them 
to  action,  and  the  obstinate  and  sanguinary  conflicts 
at  Hubberton,  evinced,  that  although  in  retreat,  they 
were  still  very  formidable.  This  little  army  led  by 
General  St.  Clair,  after  a  circuitous  march,  reached 
the  Hudson,  at  Batten  Kill,  and  soon  joined  General 
Schuyler,  who,  with  the  main  army,  was  a  few 
miles  above,  at  Fort  Edward.  General  Burgoyne, 
with  the  great  body  of  the  British  troops,  proceed- 

*  Only  one  thousandl  four  hundred  yards,  from  Ticonderoga, 
and  one  thousand  five  hundred  from  Mount  >  Independence,  on 
the  opposite  shore. — {General  Burgoyne.) 


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WnSTM.N.V.  t4SI0 

(716)  •72-4303 


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84   TOUR  BSTW^EN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


« 


i»4 


m^m. 


edfin  pursuit  of  his  enemy,  up  the  lake$  to  Skeens- 
boEQli^h,  and  destrq^red  the  American  flotilla,  bag- 
gage and  stores,  while  General  Philips  with  most  of 
the  s%res  of  General   Burgoyne,  went  up  lak^ 
Georjpto  Fort  George,  situated  at  its  head.   Gen- 
eral Srauyler's  army  continued  to  retreat,  down  the 
Hudson,  to  Saratoga  and  Stillwater,  and,  at  last, 
to  Van  Shaick's  island,  in  the  mouth  of  the  Mohawk, 
where  it  took  post,  on  the  eighteenth  of  Augusts 
From  Skeensborough,  General  Burgoyne,  with 
0?^^ixtreme  difficulty,  and  after  several  weeks  of  severe 
'  Idsmir,  and  one  considerable  battle  near  fort  Anne, 
ABred  the  passage  to  Fort  Edward  ;    for  General 
Schu|^er,  in  conse(}ue%ce  of  General  Burgqyne's 
^aliti^f  nearly'  three,iveeks,  at  Skeensborough,  had 
^me'io  throw  very  formidable  obstructions  in  his 
^^ay.    He  felled    innumerable   trees    into  Wood 
Creek,  and  across  the  roads,  by  Fort  Anne;  he  de- 
molished bridges,  and  by  every  other  means  in  his 
power,  so  impeded  his  march,  that  the  British  army^ 
did  not  arrive  at  Fort  Edward,  on  the  Hudson,  till 
the  30th  of  July.     A  junction  was  at  length  formed 
at  this  place,  between  the  main  body,  and  the  divi- 
sion that  went  by  lake  George. 

In  order  to  enable  General  Burgoyne  to  move 
down  the  Hudson^  it  was  necessary  to  transport  the 
'  stores,  boats  and  aramunitionj  a  distance  of  sixteen 
miles,  over  a  very  difficult  <^|||ry,  from  Fort 
George  to  Fort  Edwtrd. 
of  August,  there  wasi 
provision  in  advance. 


i^ 


on  the  fifteenth 
,  only  four  dap^ 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.   85 


On  the  sixteenth,  Colonel  Baum,  who  with  bia 
Germans,  had  been  detached  by  ^urgoyne,  to  leke  a 
magazine  of  stores  at  Bennirigton,  in  Vermont,  and 
to  countenance  the  loyalists  in  that  quarter,  was  to- 
tally defeated  and  slain,  by  General  Stark  >  piost  of 
his  detachment  were  either  killed  or  made  pnsoners; 
and  Colonel  Breyman,  who  had  been  sent  to  succour 
Baum,  and  who  arrived  on  the  same  ground,  a  few 
hours  after  the  battle,  was  also  defeated,  and  with 
extreme  difficulty,  regained  the  main  army  with  the 
greater  part  of  his  troops.  *  s^ 

In  the  mean  time,  Colonel  St#  Leger,  in  conse- 
quence of  an  arrangement,  made  in  EnglandppKl 
proceeded,  early  in  August,  with  an  army  of  pritisii 
and  Indians,  to  attack  Fort  Staowix,  called  aliK)  FcMi 
Schuyler,  on  the  Mohawk.  This  was  intenaed^lo 
operate,  as  a  diversion  in  favour  of  Burgoyne ;  % 
distract  the  Americans,  and,  in  case  of  success,  to 
bring  down  a  powerful  force,  upon  their  flank. 

This  expedition  was  attended  with  some  success, 
in  the  defeat  of  Colonel  Herkimer,  who  fell  into  an 
ambuscade,  while  advancing  with  the  militia,  of  the 
vicinity,  to  relieve  the  Fort ;  he  was  slain,  with  ma- 
ny of  his  party ;  but  a  successful  sally  from  the 
Fort — ^the  reported  advance  of  General  Arnold,  with 
a  force  greatly  magnified  by  the  artful  representations 
of  some  friendly  Indians,  and  the  fears  an<|;£i6^1e* 
ness  of  the  sa|||^  in  the  British  army,  eventually 
defeated  St.  t<<^M3  expeditioii,  and  caused  bim  to 
^treat,  in  extreme  eonfuiii^  aj^^istress. 


!■ 


••'»i 


^■^v 


I 


ll 


ii^ 


86   TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  (QUEBEC. 

Thus,  General  Burgoyne  was  disappointed  of  any 
collateral  aid,  from^t.  Leger,  and  the  signal  defeat 
at  Bennington,  not  only  deprived  him  of  any  supply 
of  provisions,  from  that  source,  but  lost  him  a  sixth 
part  oiihe  regular  troops  in  his  army,  and  revealed 
the  important  secret,  that  regular  troops  could  be 
beaten  by  militia.    These  events  revived  the  cour- 
age of  the  Americans,  gave  them  time  to  rally  and 
to  recruit  their  armies,  and  very  materially  embar* 
issed  and  retarded  the  movements  of  General  Bur- 
goyne. 
*        To  retreat  was  to  abandon  the  objects  of  his  ex- 
, '     |l)|plion,  and  to  disappoint  the  expectations  of  his 
gover^^ment;  to  advance,  althf^igh  with  increasing 
4||i||culties,  and  dangers,  was  therefore  the  only  al- 
|,     tfiiirnative.    Accordingly,  on  thd  thirteenth  and  four- 
tiibnth  of  September,  he  passed  the  Hudson  river, 
on  a  bridge  of  boats,  not  far  from   Fort  Miller, 
and  advanced,  without  any  material  opposition,  to 
Saratoga  and  Stillwater,  till,  on  the  seventeenth, 
his  advanced  guard  was  within  four  miles  of  the 
American  army,  now  returning  northward.    On  the 
eighteenth,  the  fronts  of  the  two  armies  were  al- 
most in  contact,  and  some  skirmishing  ensued,  but 
without  bringing  on  a  general  engagement. 

Thus,  we  have  pasjs»d  in  very  rapid  review,  the 

principal  events,  w^dl  preceded|  and^nduced  the 

•    crisis  of  6enei^^«Bui^^e's^}tJ|||^n.    The  two 

armies  were  now  so  situated  flp^s  catastrophe 


*4 


^' 


.■:.*^--!u"^''S" 


^■*  -     ■  ^^m^ 


•« 


T0VR4B.ETWEEN  HARTFOllD  AND  <tU£BEC.      87  • 

could  not  long  be  averted,  and  the  four  succeeding 
weeks,  were  pregnant  with  dai|£ers  and  difficulties,    ' 
and  fruitful  in  the  waste  of  human  life. 


'      ■     .  "  ■  ■  'i  '■^.'s 

We  had  so  arranged  our  journey,  as  to  lodge  at 
Stillwater,  and  we  were  even  desirous  to  stay  in  the 
very  house,  which  in  the  plans,  accompanying  Gen- 
eral Burgoyne's  '*  State  of  the  expedition  from 
Canada,"  is  called  "  Swords'  house." 

This  small  house,  which  is  s^U  in  tolerable  re- 
pair, and  is  now  kept  as  a  tavern,  was,  for  J|iilie 
time,  the  British  bead  quarters,  and  hospital,  and 
was  rendered  very  memorable  by  the  events  whi|||| 
happened  in  and  near  it.  ,,,,  ,- 

We  arrived,  at  night  fall,  in  the  midst  of  a  hard 
rain ;  obtained  the  refreshments  we  needed,  and 
made  |^rselves  comfortable  for  the  night.  Willing 
to  arrest  the  impressions  of  the  moment,  I  wrote 
down  such  thoughts  as  the  scene  suggested. 

SWORDS'  HOUSE  AT  STILLWATER— Ten  o'ctocJb  at  night. 

si 

We  are  now  on  memor|ble  ground.  Here,  much 
precious  blood  was  shedii^and  now,  in  the  silence 
and  solitu(J^  of  a  very  dark  ^d  rainy  nigh^the 
family  asleep^piJ  nQthin|^  heard  ||ltt  the  rain  and 
the  Hudson,  ^«|mui;p(iuring  along,  I  am  writing 
in  th^f  «ry1iouse  $  and  na§|lable  standi,  on  the  very 


mi 


# 


Hi 


■■*., 


H: 


ft 


mi 


m  88      TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  (QUEBEC. 

spot  in  the  roohi  where  General  Frazer  breathed 
'    his  last,  on  the  eig^  of  October,  1777. 

He  was  rnortally  wounded  in  the  last  of  the  two 
desperate  battles  fought  on  the  neighbouring  heights, 
and,  in^o  midst  of  the  conflict,  was  brought  to  this 
house,^  the  soldiers.  Before  me  lies  one  of  the 
,  filets,  shot  on  that  occasion ;  they  are  often  found, 
m^oughing  the  battle  field. 

£llood  is  asserted,  by  the  people  of  the  house, 
to  have  been  visible  here,  on  the  floor,  till  a  very 
recent  period.  V     .'^i* 

General  Frazer  was  high  in  command,  in  the  Brit- 
ish drmy,  and  was  almost  idolized  by  them :  they  had 
the  utmost  confidence  in  his  skill  and  valour,  and 
ihai^  the  Americans  entertained  a  similar  opinion  of 
.  iiim,  is  sufficiently  evinced,  by  the  following  anec- 
dote, related  to  me  at  Ballston  Springs,  in  1797,  by 
tho  Hon.  Richard  Brent,  then  a  member  of  Con- 
gress, from  Virginia,*  who  derived  the  f^gt  fron 
General  Mi^gan's  own  mouth. 

In  the  battle  of  October  the  seventh,  the  last  pitch- 
ed battle,  that  was  fought  between  the  two  arnties, 
Getieral  Frazer,  mounted  on  an  iron  grey  herse,  was 
y|ry  conspicuous.  He  was  all  activity,  courage, 
and  vigilance,  riding  froip  one  part  of  his  division 
to  another,  and  animatj^ng  the  troops  by  his  exam- 
ple.* Wherever  he  was  present,  ever^^  thing  pros- 
pered, and,  when  confusion  appeared  in  any  part  of 

•       *  Since.  d6«^eMed#^     .    J^       ^i^> 


;i 


>, 

I 


y* 


'f<u->l 


V 


i,^ 


'>» 


ifc 


*5    ^,. 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTrORD  AND  QUEBEC.   89  • 


the  line,  order  and  energy  were  restored  by  his  ar- 
rival. •  ii^ 

Colonel  Morgan,*^  with  his  Virginia  riflemen,  was 
immediately  opposed  to  Frazer's  division  of  the 
army.  *  j^^ 

It  had  been  concerted,  before  the  coiffience- 
ment  of  the  battle,  that  while  the  New-Hampshire 
and  the  New-York  troops,  attacked  the  British  left. 
Colonel  Morgan  with  his  regiment  of  Virginia  rifle- 
men, should  make  a  circuit  so  as  to  come  upon  the 
British  right,  and  attack  them  there.  In  this  attempt, 
lie  was  favoured  by  a  woody  hill,  to  the  foot  of 
which  the  British  right  extended.  When  the^t- 
tack  commenced  on  the  British  lift,  *^  true  to  his 
purpose,  Morgan,  at  this  critical  moment,  poured 
down,  like  a  torrent  from  the  hill,  and  attacked  the 
right  of  the  enemy  in  front  and  flank."f  The  rigl^t 
wing  soon  made  a  movement  to  support  the 
which  ipas  assailed  with  increased  violence  a: 
while  executing  this  movement,  General^razer  re- 
ceived his  mortal  wound. 

Id  the  midst  of  this  sanguinary  battle.  Colonel 
Morgan  took  a  few  of  his  best  riflemen  aside ;  men 
in  whose  fidelity,  and  fatal  precision  of  aim,  i|p 
could  repose  th3  most  perfect  confidence,  and  $iM 
to  them :  "that  gallant  officer  is  General  Fraaer ;  I 

;  *  Afterwards  Genera]  Mor^gfln — theneroof  the  battle  of  the 
Cowpens,  and  distij|rgQishe(i  through  the  whole  war,  by  a  series  of 
Jlf  Qi^iiDpoftSht  sen^fii^ 

iftiiison's  Mimdipj,  Vol.  I.  p.  268, 


Wv- 


WW. 


"^m- 


.1  *' 


41  90  '  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


,^        admire  and  respect  him,  ^i^  it  is  necetsary  thai  k 
■^     should  die — take  Yont  stations  in  that  wood,  and  di 


w 


'% 


?S!' 


your  duty."    Witoin  a  few  moments  General  Frazer 
fell,  mortally  wounded.^ 

Hoi^lar,  such  personal  designation  is  justifiable, 
has  CffUti  heen  questioned,  but  those  who  vindicate 
war  at  all,  contend,  that  to  shoot  a  distinguished  offi- 
cer, and  thus  to  accelerate  the  conclusion  of  a  bloody 
battle,  operates  to  save  lives,  and  that  it  is,  morally, 
no  worse,  to  kill  an  illustrious,  than  en  obscure  in- 
dividual; a  Frazer,  than  a  common  soldier;  a 
Nelson ,f  than  a  common  sailor.  But,  there  isi 
jSpilthing  very  revolting  to  huitiane  feelings,  in  a 
mode  of  warfarefWhich  converts  its  ordinary  chances 
into  a  species  of  military  execution.     Sjuch  instan- 

i^^.pes,  were,  however,  freqnent,  during  the  campaign  of ! 

viviJ^' ^IBfebneral  Burgoynej  and  his  aid.  Sir  Francis  Clark, 
many  other  British  officers^  were  victims  of 
merican  marksmanship.  ^ 

'[pie  Baroness  Reidesel,  the  lady  of  Major  Gen- 
eraitbe  Baron  Reidesel,  in  some  very  interesting 
letters  of  hers,  published  at  Berlin,  in  1800,  ahd  in 
part  repul»lis,hed  in  translation,  in  Wilkinson's  me- 
poirs,  states  that  she,  with  her  three  little  childreo^J 
^fo|d)9&%ad,  with  tfais  tender  charge,  follotired  the' 

"JBb  was  supported  orv  bis  horse  by  two  officers,  till, be  reached 
hisfent ;  be  said  that  be  saw  the  inan  who  shot  him,  thlt  be  was«  i 

rifleman,  and  potMd  in  a  tree.  _s. 

♦  mi 

t.  Nelson  was  killed'by  a  sharp  shoqierfrom  the  tops  of  the 

Sfntissima  Trinidada.  ,  ^  "i:^ 

#  ■,:,.  -*^. '#■; 


■» 


TOUR  BXTWBEN  HARTFORD  AMD  (^VEBEC.       91 

I  fortunes  of  her  husband,  across  the  Atlantic,  and 
through  the  horrors  of  the  camp|ign)  occupied  this 
house,  which  was  the  only  refuge,  within  protection 
of  the  British  army.  The  rooms  which  if  contain- 
ed remain,  to  this  day,  as  they  then  were,  al^ugh 
[some  other  rooms  have  been  since  added.     '^' 

The  house  stood  at  that  time,  perhaps  one  Kud^ 
Idred  yards  from  the  river,  at  the  foot  of  the  hill ;  it 
was  afterwards  removed  to  the  road  side,  close  by 
[the  river,  where  it  now  stands. 

The  Baroness,  with  her  little  children,  occupied 
Ithe  room,  in  which  we  took  tea,  and  General  Fra- 
zer,  when  brought  in  wounded*,  was  laid  in  the  other 
room.    In  fact,  as  it  was  the  only^shelter  that  re- 
jmained  standing,  it  was  soon  converted  into  a  hos- 
pital, and  many  other  wounded  and  dying  officers  % 
irere  brought  to  this  melancholy  refuge.  ^^ 

Thus  a  refin^ed  and  delicate  lady,  educated  in ' 
the  elegance  of  affluence  and  of  elevated  rank,  witK 
her  little  ^ildren,«was  compelleJ  to  witness  the 
|agonies  of  bleeding  and  dying  men,  among  whom, 
some  of  her  husband's  and  of  her  otvn  particular 
friends,  elcpired  Before  her  eyes.     She  ti^parted  to 

;m  of  her  few  remaining  comforts  and  soothe(^ 
|tliem  !by  offices  of  kindness,  l^his  distiiMtti|iidlf<^ 
^ady  was  not*  without  s^lemalSf  ccmipRnioni^^pmo   .* 
shared  her  distresses,  Ir  felt  ^ith  kepnness  their 
)wn  misfortunes.    Among  them  w^.^bdy  Harriet 
Lckland,  the^ife  qf  Major  Aieirl«Dnti»^^    com- 
landed^^e  British  grenadiers.    £ver#^i%  that 


», 


^ 


■.^■• 


.•■«,. 


'"*!; 


'#% 


92   TOUR  BETW£EN  HAKTFOBD  AND  ^UBBBC. 

has  been  said  of  the  Baroness  Reidesel,  will  apply 
to  her.  News  cupe,  from  timo  to  time,  from  the 
heights,  that  one  officer  and  another  was  killed,  and 
among  the  rest  that  Major  Ackland  was  desperately 
woujMGbd,  and  a  prisoner  with  the  enemy. 
'^  BAfir,  (called  in  General  Burgoyne's  narrative, 
Ct^el)  Ackland,  had  been  wounded  in  the  battle 
of  Hubberton,  but  had  recovered,  and  resumed  the 
command  of  the  Grenadiers.  He  was  wounded, 
the  second  lime,  in  the  battle  of  October  7,  aod 
found  by  General  (then  Colonel  WilkinSbn,) 
gives  the  following  interesting  statement  of  the  occur* 
rince  :*— "  with  Ae  troops, -i  pursued  the  hard 
pressed,  flyingjoamy,  passing  over  killed  and  woun- 
ded, until  I  heard  onf^xclaim,  'protect  me,  Sir, 
against  this  boy.'  Turning  my  eyes,  it  was  n 
fortune  to  arrest  the  purpose  of  a  lad,  thirteen 
fourteen  years  old,  in  the  act  of  |aking  aim  at  il 
wounded  officer,  who  lay  in  the  angle  qf  a  womi 
fenced  Inquiring  his  rank,  he  a^i^er^  ^  I  had  the 
honciHr  to  command  the  Grenadiers^;"  cif  course'l{ 
knew  him  to  be  Major  Aekland»  who  had  bei 
brought  from  the  field  to  this  pla&,  on  tfie  back 
||^.  0<^P^li>  ^lifi'iipton,  of  his  own  corps,  under 
^r^-'hm0I^Bi  and  wiui deposited  here,  to  saviei}ie  \v 
oJ  t6th."t  '     ' 


»Memolra^yol.f%.271:  *, 

t  Anbury  relates,  (Inyt^py0tl.'ptL.9H,)  that  aJfter.Acklai 
was  deposited}  by  Captatii  Shrimpton,  he  oiKr^d  j||ty|;uineasl 
the  Greaadien ,  who  were  flyi|lcJ>7  hiiri,  if  any  one  ^  lh«B|  wooil 


»..;; 


■i-y-j^^,. 


TOUR  BETWEEN  RARTTORD  IND  HVEBEC.   93 

f 

<*I  dismounted,  took  him  by  the  hand  and  ex-  , 
pressed  hopes  that  he  was  not  badly  wounded ;  *  not 
badly/  replied  this  gallant  officer,  and  accomplished 
gentleman,  *but  very  inconveniently,  I  am  shot 
through  both  legs;  will  youj  Sir,  have  then  good- 
ness, to  have  me  conveyed  to  your  camp  ?'  I'wcect- 
ed  my  servant  to  alight,  and  we  lifted  Ackla<|ll||Dto 
his  (the  servant's)  seat,  and  ordered  him  to  be  con- 
ducted to  head  quarters.'* 

Two  other  ladies,  who  were  in  the  same  house 
[with  madam  Reidesel,  received  news,  the  one,  that 
her  husband  was  wounded,  and  the  other,  that  hers 
was  slain ;  and  the  Baroness  herself,  expected,  eve- 
ry moment  to  hear  similar  tidings;  for  the  Baroo's 
duties,  as  commander  in  chi0^f,  of  the  German  troops, 
[required  him  to  be  frequently  exposed  to  the  most 
ymroinent  perils.  -  *-      ■ 

The  Baroness  Reidesel,  gives,  in  her  narrative, 
Ithe  following  recital,  respecting  General  Frazer's 
Ideath : — "96vere  trials,  awaited  us,  and  on  the  7th  of 
[October,  our  misfortunes  began ;  I  was  at  breakfast,  ^ 

convey  lili^into  camp;  that  a  very  stont  Grenadier,  undertook 
^t,  but  being  overtaken  by  the  Americans,  both  were  made  pris- 
oners.   Anbury's  book,  however,  although  it  contains  many  inter** 

ling  oeebrreiices,  which  so  far  as  they  are  stated,  on  bis  O^A:-- 
llmowledge,  are  prfibably  relatejd  with  correctness— is^.evidentlyli 
nadewp  woric,  and  what  is  d^nous  enough,  iB|ii||^|||^dy^  it,  and 
by  far  the  most  important  (HMis,  are  taken,  aln^^^^^eHptlin,  from 
General  Burgoyne's  «  State  Wt^e  Expedition'lliftiD  t^ada"— 
iltbough  that  worl^as  not  pabllsbed,  till  three  ycnurs  after  Aiiba- 

'8  letters  Are  Arf<^ 


'M- 


mOi' 


Wr 


X$ 


94       TOUR  BITWCBN  HARTFORD  AND  ^UEBEO. 

with  my  husband,  and  heard  that  something  was  iq. 
tended.  On  the  same  day,  I  expected  th«  Gener- 
als Burgoyne>  Philips  and  Frazer,  to  dine  with  us. 
I  saw  a  great  movement  among  the  troops ;  my  hus- 
band tpld  me,  it  was  a  mere  reconnoissance,  which 
g^e  til6  no  concern,  as  it  often  hajfpened.  I  walk- 
ed! oiApf  the  house,  and  met  several  Indians,  in  their 
war  drosses,  with  guns  in  their  hands.  Whenr  I  asl(- 
liA  them  where  they  were  going,  they  cried  out  War! 
War!  (meaning  that  they  were  going  to  battle.)— 
This  filled  me  with  apprehensions,  and  I  ha9  scarce- 
ly got  home,  before  I  heard  reports  of  cannon  and  I 
musketry,  which  gret^  louder  by  degrees,  till  at  last, 

^^th&noise  became  excessive.    About  4  o'clock  in 
me  afternoon,  instead  of  the  guests,  whom  I  expect- 

'  ed.  General  Frazer  was  brought,  on  a  litter,  mortally] 
wounded.  The  table,  which  was  already  set,  was] 
instantly  removed,  aad  a  bed  placed  in  its  stead,  for 
^he  wounded  General.  I  sat  trembling  in  a  corner; 
the  noise  grew  louder,  and  tlie  alarm  ancrcased: 
the  thought  that  my  husband  might,  perhaps,  be 
brought  in,  w^ounded  in  tlie  same  manner,  was  terri 
ble  to  me,  and  distressed  me  exceediifgly^ 

General  Frazer  said  to  the  surgeon,  '  tell  me  if 
t^f  wound  is  mortal,  do  not  flatter  me.'  The  ball 
bad  passed  through  his  bodyj  a|^d  unhappily  for  the 
General,  he  bad  eaten  a  very  hearty  brd&kfast,  Jby 
which  the  stomach  was  distended,  and  tKeball,  ai 
the  surgeon  said,  had  passed  throu|(b  it.  I  hean 
him  often  exclaim,  with  a  sigh,  '0,  fatal  ambi 


#•. 


ii' 


10 


w'^p 


m 

#0: 


TOUR  BCTWEKN  UABTTOllD  AND  <lt£BEC. 


05 


tion!  "BpOR  General  Burgoyne!  O,  mt  poor 
WIFE !'  He  was  asked  if  lie  had  any  request  to  make, 
to  which  ho  replied,  that  *  if  General  Burooyne 

WOULD  PERMIT  IT,  HE  SHOULD  LIKE  TO  BE  BURIEB 
AT  6  o'clock  in  the  EVENING,  ON  THE  JJUf  01  A 
MOUNTAIN,  IN  A  REDOUBT  WHICH  HAD  BEEN  BUILT 

THSBE.'  Towards  evening,  I  saw  my  husband 
coming ;  then  I  forgot  all  my  sorrows,  and  thanked! 
God  that  he  was  spared  to  me." 

The  sl3erman  Baroness  spent  much  of  the  night 
\a  comfOTting  lady  Harriet  Ackland,  and  in  taking 
I  care  of  her  children,  whom  she  had  put  to  bed.  ^  Of 
herself  she  says-^**I  could  not  go  to  sleep,  as  I  had 
I  General  Frazer  and  all  the  other  wounded  gentle- 
men in  my  room,  and  I  was  sadly  afraid,  rhy  chil- 
dren would  awake,  and  by  their  crying,  disturb  the  '^i||| 
dying  man,  in  his  last  moments,  who  often  ad(£ress- 
•d  me,  and  apologised  '/or  the  trovhle  he  gave  me  J* 
About  3  o'clock  in  the  morning,  I  was  told,  he  could 
[not  hold  out  much  longer ;  I  had  desired  to  be  in- 
Iformed  of  the  near  approach  of  this  sad  crisis,  and  I 
|then  wrapped  up  my  children  in  their  clothes,'  and  *. 
yent  with  then^  irtto  the  room  below.    About  eight 
)'clock<in  the  morning,  he  died.    Alter  he  was  laid 
9ut,  and  his  corpse  wrapped  up  in  tfiiheet,  we  came 
igain  intd  the  roomj^Rnd  we  had  tliis  sorrowful  sight 

)efore  us  ^e  whole  day  ;  and,  to  add  to  the  melan- 
choly sei^,  alnMst  every  moment  some  officer  of 

ly  acquaint^illl^  was  brought  in.  wounded.'' 


■DtB'' 


'%/'. 


Ht^' 


K%:;\t 


I  i 


■# 


*<■ 


■f 


^^■^ 


96      TOUR  lETWeEN  WdtTVOKD  AND  <IUE]|E6. 


What  a  situation  for  delicate  female^^-^a  small 
house,  filled  with  bleeding  and  expiring  riaen — ths 
battle  roaring  and  raging  all  around — ^little  children 
to  be  soQthed  and  protected,  and  female  domestics, 
in  de||)air,  to  be  comforted — cordials  and  aids,  such 
as  were  attainable,  to  be  administered  to  the  wound- 
ed and  dying — ruin  impending  over  the  army,  and 
they  knew  not  what  insults,  worse  than  death,  might 
await  themselves,  from  those  whom  they  had  bees 
taught  to  consider  as  base,  as  well  as  cowaKdly» 

Both  these  illustrious  females  learned,^bt  long  i 
after,  a  different  ]eis$on.     I  have  already  remarked, 
that  Major  Ackland  was  wounded  and  taken  pris- 
oner. .  J9is  lady,  with  heroic  courage,  and  exempla- 
ry  co|j|^al  tenderness,  passed  down  the  river,  to  I 
our  army,  with  a  letter  from  General  Burgoyne,  to  ] 
Genial  Gates,  and  although  somewhat  detained  on  i 
the  river,  because  it  was  night  when  she  arrived,  and 
the  centinel  could  notpermit  IflKio  land,  till  he  had 
received  orders  frorii^i|irsuperior|'^e  was,  as  sooa 
as  her  errand  was  ma^e  known,  received  by  the  Amer-  j 
icans,  with  the  utmost  respect,  kindness,  and  delica-^ 
cy.     Her  husband,  many  ye«^s  after  the  war,  even] 
lost  his  life,  in  a  d|)el,  which  he  fought  with  nn  of!i* 
6er,  who  called^e  Americans  cowards.    AV^kland] 
espoused  th^  cause,  and  vindl^ted  itinlhis^un- 
happy  maan^^  -^  ^-f 

General  Burgoyne^  in  Ms* "State  of  tjje  car^ditionJ 
from  Canada,"  has  mentioned,  wi^piiuch  respect 
and  feeling,  the  case  of  lady  Harriet  Ackland.    It 


;*$;.['  :i*»nf  . : 


:*r 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HAE' 


# 


D  f  ND  QUEBEC.      97 


seems  sl|i»  came  with  her  husband  to  Canada,  early 
in  the  year  1776,  and  accompanied  him  through 
that  campaign,  in  all  the  varieties  of  tralRling  and  of 
season,  "  to  attend,  in  a-poor  hut,  at  Chaihbly,  up- 
on his  sick  bed."  At  the  opening  of  the  cai^aign 
of  1777,  she,  by  the  positive  injunctions  of  her  hus- 
band, remained  at  Ticonderoga,  till,  hearing  of  his 
1  being  wounded  at  Castleton,  she  went  over  to  him^ 
and,  after  his  recovery,  persisted  in  following  his 
fortunesk^with  no  other  vehicle,  than  a  little  two- 
wheeled%imbril,  constructed  in  the  camp  on  the 
Hudson.  She,  with  the  Major,  was,  on  a  particular 
occasion,  near  perishing  in  the  flames,  in  conse- 
I  quence  of  their  hut  taking  fire  in  the  night.  As  the 
grenadiers,  whom  Major  Ackland  commi^ded, 
were  attached  to  the  advanced  corps,  this  lady  was 
exposed  to  all  their  fatigues,  find  to  many  oflljheir 
perils,  and  was  at  last  obliged,  during  the  battle  of 
[the  7th  of  October,  to  take  refuge  '*  among  the 
[wounded  and  dying." 

With  respect  to  her  proposal,  to  go  over  to  the 
Lmerican  camp,  to  take  care  of  her  husband.  General 
Jurgoyne  remarks,*  "Though  I  was  ready  to  be- 
lieve, (for  I  had  experienced,)  that  patience  and 
fortitude,  in  a  supreme  degree,  were  to  be  foundt 
IS  well  as  every  otlj^  virtue,  under  tlie  most  tender 
|forms,  I  #aft^  at  this  proposal.     After  so 

llong  aj^y^itation  of  the  spirits,  exhausted;  not  osify 


f  State  of  the  exped^ion,  &c.  page  128. 
9*' 


f-* 


;il^- 


m 


#i: 


'^kJk '  ik 


\ 


M 


98     TOUR  betwbIn 


VORD  AND  (^VEBSO. 


*»^ 


» 

jf|jB|  1 

j  Jw  li 

J[ffii{  Ji 

is 

^ffl 

^#K 

!tiKaW' 

for  want  of  rest,  but  absolutely  want  of  fao^||irench- 
ed  in  rains  for  twelve  hours  together,  that  ii  woman 
should  be  ^able  of  delivering  herself  to  the  ene- 
^y*  prjfaibly  in  the  night,  and  uncertain  of  what 
hands  .jm<e  might  first  fall  into,  appeared  an  effort, 
aboveVUiiian  nature.  The  assistance  I  was  enabled 
to  give,  was  small  indeed ;  I  had  not  even  a  cup  of  | 

y^ine  to  offer  her ;  but  I  was  told,  she  had  found 

/,  from  some  kind  and  fortunate  hand,  a  litde  rum  and 

dirty  water.    All  I  could  furnish  to  hei^^was  an 

yOpen  boat,  and  a  few  lines,  written  upon  Imrty  and 

wet  paper,  to  General  Gates,  recommending  hertohis 

protection." ^— •  "  It  is  due  to  justice,  at  the| 

close  of  this  adventure,  to  say,  that  she  was  receiv* 
ed,  and  accommodated  by  General  Gates,  with  all  the  I 
humanity  and  respect,  that  her  rank,  her  merits,  | 
and||lBr  fortunes  deserved*"  .4^ 

Fomit  to  quote  General  Burgoyne's  statement,  that  I 
lady  Harriet  Ackland   was   detained  through  the| 
night  in  the  open  boat,  becausef  we  are  now  in- 
formed, on  the  authority  of  Generals  Wilkinson^  andl 
I  Dearborn,  that  this  was  a  total  misrepresentatiooj 

although,  probably,  not  originating  witbGeneral  Bum 
goyne.  It  seems  Generah Dearborn  (then  aJUajor,)! 
commanded,  at  the  post  where  the  boat  was  hailedl 
As  soon  as  the  character  of  the  lady  was  known,  shel 

"  W&s  immediately  provided  with  a  comCsffli|li<^  &pai^{ 
nSent,  and  refreshments^  and  fire,  and,  ii|^ mor 


*lleiDoin»Vo).Lp.28a. 


'^«Si#- 


iiT^' 


;i^ 


*; 


M' 


TOUK  BETWEEN  HA^PbR]>  AND^  (QUEBEC*       99 

incr  yamforwturded  on  her  way  to  the  camp.  "  Let 
such)  lads  General  Burgoyne,  "as  are  affected  hy 
these  circumstances  of  alarm,  hardshifi^and  danger, 
recollect  that  the  subject  of  them  was  a  woman,  of 
the  most  tender  and  delicate  frame ;  of  the  gentlest 
manners  ;  habituated  to  all  the  soft  eleganmes,  and 
refined  enjoyments,  that  attend  high  birth  and  for- 
tune ;  and  far  advanced  in  a  state,  in  which  the  ten- 
der cares,  always  due  to  the  sex,  become  indispen- 
sably necessary.  Her  mind  alone  was  formed  foi'w' 
such  trials." 

Lady  Reidesel,  immediateljp^^n  the  surrender  of 
the  army,  received  on  the  spot,  from  General  Schuy- 
ler, (and  that  spot  was  his  own  devastated  estate,) 
the  most  kind  and  soothing  attentions,  which  she  and 
her  children  so  eminently  needed,  and  afterwards, 
in  the  family  of  this  magnfliQimous  and  g^||prous 
man,  she  experienced  from  Mrs.  Schuyler,  an|  her 
daughters,  all  the  attentions  and  sympat|iies  of 
friendship. 

After  the  surrender,  and  the  ofiice||  had  gone 
over  to  General  Gates*  army.  General  Beidesel  s^| 
a  message  to  his  lady,  to  come  to  him  with  her 
dren.  Shes^ys  in  her  narrative,  *^I  seated  m; 
once  more^  in  my  dear  calash^  and  then, 
through  tjhe  American  camp.  As  I  passed  m^  £ 
obseE!||gii^  (and  this  was  a  great  consolation  to  ii|^ 
thatfi^Qne  eyed  me  with  looks  of  resentment,  Wt 
they  all  greeted  us,  and  even  shewed  compassion  in 
their  countenances,  at  the  si£biii&iA«Baman  with 

CAHAWAHA 


li- 


i  'I 


1^ 


%" 


* 


,j  \ 


m 


'JM^^m, 

■     .-s^'^ 

'i^Ui     ' 

llv 

iiS 

'1 

t#Q'  TOUR  BETWEJEItr 


rORD  AND  <iUEB£C. 


dmall  children.  I  was,  I  confess,  afraid  tSggA  over 
to  the  enemy,  as  it  was  quite  a  new  situatifflPEo  me. 
When  I  dre#  near  the  tents,  a  handsome  man  ap- 
proached and  met  me,  took  my  children  from  the 
calashf  mid  hugged  and  kissed  them,  which  affected 
me  alm^ht  to  tears.  '*  You  tremble,"  said  he,  ad- 
dressing  himself  to  me,  "  be  not  afraid."  "  No^"  I 
answered,  "  you  seem  so  kind  and  tender  to  my 
children,  it  inspires  me  with  courage."  He  now 
^ed  me  to  the  tent  of  General  Gates."  "All 

the  Generals  remained  to  dine  with  General  Gates." 
"  The  same  gentleman  who  received  me  so  kind- 
ly, now  came  and  said  to  me,  "You  will  be  very 
much  embarrassed  to  eat  with  all  these  gentlemen; 
come  with  your  children  to  my  tent,  where  I  will 
prepare  for  you  a  frugal  dinner,  and  give  it  with  a 
free  i^l."  I  snid,  **,tou  are  certainly  Jl  hus- 
BAN^  AND  a  fatheii^  y^u  have  shewn  me  so  much 


s. 


5> 


"  I  nbw  fp^nd  that  he  was  General  Schuyler.  He 
treated   nqH  with  excellent  smoked  tongue,  beef 
.^ak$,  pototoes,  and  good  bread  and  butter  I  ^'  Nev- 
r§r  could  I  have  wished  to  eat  a  better  pinner  :    I 
^"irai  content ;  I  saw  all  aj|;pund  me  ilK^^^<>  1^^* 
i^e;  and  what  ^s  better  than  all,  ny, husband 
^  was  out  of  danger!  When  we  had  dined^^f  told  me 
iij^jresidence  was  at  Albany,  and  that  G^i|||ilBur- 
goyne  intended  to  honour  him  as  his  guest^||i|d  in- 
vited myself  and  chilcpen  to  do  so  likewise.    Task- 
ed my  husbaiid  how  I  shoiiM  act ;  he  told  me  to 


'i*.5*" 


'.t.T,4 


f. 


4k 


# 


.^<*»Vi 


TOITB  BI:TWEEI«  BARTFOUD  AKB  ^tJEBCC.      101 


accept  ^invitation." 


**  Some  fiays  after 


this,  we  arrived  at  Albany,  where  we  so  often  wish- 
cd  ourselves ;  but,  we  did  not  enter  it,  as  we  ex- 
pected we  should,  victors !  We  were  received  by 
the  good  General  Schuyler,  his  wife^  and  daughters, 
not  as  enemies,  but  kind  friends ;  and  theyrtreated 
us  with  the  most  marked  attention  and  politeness, 
as  they  did  General  Burgoyne,  who  had  caused 
General  Schuyler's  beautifully  finished  house  to  be 
burnt;  in  fact,  they  behaved  like  persons  of  exalted 

I  minds,  who  determined  to  bury  all  recollection  of 
their  own  injuries  in  the  conteill^ation  of  our  mis- 
fortunes. General  Burgoyne  was  struck  with  Gen- 
eral Schuyler's  generosity,  and  said  to  him,  "  You 
shew  me  great  kindness,  although  I  have  done  you 
much  injury."    ^^  Thai  t^ks  the  fate  of  war"  repli- 

|ed  the  brave  man,  "  let  us  say  no  more  about  it." 
Thus,  not  only  General  Burgoyne,  bpt  a  number 

I  of  the  most  distinguished  officers  of  the  arnotf^  in- 
cluding Baron  Reidesel,  and  Major  A^andj  and 
their  Indies,  weiNft  actually  lodged, 

Imost  hospitably  entertained,   in  tbe^ 


f-s, 


Jman,  whose  elegant  villa  at  Sarato^^tney 
tonly*  buni)  and  whose  fine  estate  tbiii|t 


ad 


[spoiled. 


« 


■#■ 


Mtii^|»^K88erted,injastlileatioii|that  the  house  was  burnt  to 
evenf  Its  being  a  cover  for  the  Americaos,  vt^  that  (he  estate 

ras  ravaged  id  foraging. 


-♦* 


# 


Ar'. 


ik^.'^iV!^:^.-^, 


■,i*;:i#:: 


# 


102    TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTVOftS  AND  ^CTKBEC. 

^  Retiring  at  a  late  hour  to  my  bed,  it  w^^e  easi> 
'^  ly  perceived,  that  the  tender  and  heroic  iHeias,  as- 
sociated with  this  memorable  house,  would  strongly 
possess  my  mind.  The  night  was  mantled  in  black 
clouds,  and  impenetrable  darkness ;  the  rain,  in- 
creasing,  descended  in  torrents,  upon  the  roof  of 
*this  humble  mansion  ;  the  water,  urged  from  th« 
heights,  poured  with  loud  and  incessant  rumbling, 
through  -a  neighbouring  aqueduct ;  and  the  Hud- 
'-  '%on,  as  if  conscious  that  blood  had  once  stained  its 
waters,  and  its  banks,  rolled  along  with  sullen  mur- 
murs ; — ^the  distinguished  persons^  who,  forty-two 
years  since,  occupied  this  tenement — the  agonized 
females — the  terrified  imploring  children — and  the 
gallant  chiefs,  in  all  the  grandeur  of  heroic  suffering 
and  d<iath,  were  vividly  present  to  my  mind— ^all  the 
realities  of  the'  night,  and  the  sublime  ana  tender 
images  of  the  past,  conspired  to  give  my  faculties 
too  lii^ch  activity  for  sleep,  and  I  will  not;deny  ikt  | 
the  dawning  light  was  grateful  to  my  eyes  I 


THE  BATTLE  GROUND. 


;»;* 


^^^!^:The  rain  having  ceased,  T  was  on  hplieback  at 
^^ly  dawnyrivith  a  veteran  guide  to  conduct  me  to 
the  battle  g^und*  Although  he  was  leyeinty-five 
years  old,  he  did  not  detain  me  a  moment l? in  con- 
sequence  of  an  appointment  the  evening  b0ii'e,.hf 
was  waiting  my  arrival  tthis  house,  a  mife  below] 
our  inn,  and,  dedtfttng  a^^d,  he  mounted  a  t; 


-*?.: 


» 


#■: 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HABTFORB  ANP  QUEBEC.   103  ^ 

horse,  frojoa  .the  ground.  His  name  was  Ezra  Buel,* 
a  native  ^f  Lebanon,  in  Connecticut,  which  place 
the  left  in  his  youth,  and  was  settled  here,  at  the 
time  of  General  Burgoyne's  invasion..  He  acted, 
through  the  whole  time,  as  a  guide  to  the  American 
armyf  and  was  one  of  three,  who  were  coiistantly 
employed  in  that  service.  His  duty  led  him  to  be 
[always  foremost,  and  in  the  post  of  danger  ;  and  he 
[was,  therefore,  admirably  qualified  for  my  purpose. 

The  two  great  battles,  which  decided  the  fate  of -^ 
iBurgoyne's  army,  were  fought,  the  first  on  the  19th 
lof  September,  and  the  last,  on  the  7th  of  October, 
|oQ  Bemus*  heights,  and  very  nearly  on  the  same 
i;round,  which  is  about  two  miles  west  of  the  river. 
The  river  is,  in  this  region,  bordered  for  many 
|iniles,  by  a  continued  meadow,  of  no  great  breadth  ; 
ipon  this  meadow,  there  was  then,  as  there  is  now, 
good  road,  close  to  the  river,  and  parallel  to  it. 
Ipon.4his  road,  marched  the  heavy  artillery  and 
)aggage,  constituting  the  left  wing  of -the  British  ar- 
tiiy,  while  the  advanced  corps  of  the  light  troop% 
formfrjiyjie  right  wing,  kept  on  the  heights  whiph 
bound  tf^  meadows.  ^^ 

The.  At^rican  army  was  south  and  west  of  t^ 
{ritislij^^ight  wing  on  the  river,  and  its  left  rest*? 
(ng  on  ^^eights.     We  passed  over  a  part  of  their 
camp  a  little  below  Stillwater.  ♦•. 


;a 


*  CMt^eoUoquiaUy,  io  tlj|  neighboiy%)#pMm^/,  a  rank 
rhicli  he  iMvter  bad  ioWarmy^  bdt  Wftletli  wit  /ore^^^         at^ 
fgned  him,  while'in  the  larvl^  hy  bis  l)rother  guides.    Hft  b 
lucb  respected  as  a  worthy  ii^l  ^ 


'^■''^ 


? 


.»<*. 


y<^ 


w 


,0^^ 


m'? 


104     TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AJITD  tttfKBlSO. 

A  great  part  of  the  battle  ground  was  occupied  by 
lofty  forest  trees,  principally  pine,  with  here  and 
there  a  few  cleared  fields,  of  which  the  most  con- 
spicuous in  these  sanguinary  scenes,  was  called 
Freeman's  farm,  and  is  so  called  in  General  Bur* 
goyne's  plans.  Such  is  nearly  the  present  situation 
of  these  heights,  only  there  is  more  cleared  land; 
the  gigantic  trees  have  been  principally  felled,  but 
a  considerable  number  remain,  as  witnesses  to  pos* 
^  terity ;  they  still  shew  the  wounds,  made  in  their 
trunks  and  branches,  by  the  missiles  of  contending 
armies  ;  their  roots  still  penetrate  the  soil,  that  was 
made  fruitful  by  the  blood  of  the  brave,  and  their 
sombre  foliage  still  murmurs,  with  the  breeze,  which 
once  sighed,  as  it  bore  the  departing  spirits  along. 

My  veteran  guid§,  warmed  by  my  curiosity,  and 
recalling  the  feelings  of  his  prime,  led  me,  with 
amazing  rapidity,  and  promptitude,  over  fences  and 
ditches — through  water  and  mire — through  ravines 
and  defiles — through  thick  forests,  and  open  fields- 
and  up  and  down  very  steep  hills  ;  in  short,  through 
many  places,  where,  alone,  I  would  not  hay«  ven- 
tured |  but,  it  would  have  been  shameful  <for  me 
not  to  follow,  where  a  man  of  seventy-five  would 
lead,  and  to  reluctate  at  going,  in  peace,  pver  the 
ground,  which  the  defenders  of  their  country,  a 
their  foes,  once  trod,  in  steps  of  blood. 

On  our  way  to  Freeman's  farm,  we  tracked  the 
line  of  the  Briti3h  encapipment,  still  marked  byi 
tireast  work  of  logs,  now  rotten,  but  retaining  theiti 


'&; 


•*' 


W- 


XOUR  IBTWK^N  HARTFORB  AND  ^VEBfiO.  ^tOS 

forms }  ikpy  were)  at  the  time,  eovered  with  earth, 
and  the  harrier  between  contending  armiea,  is  n<$w 
a  fence,  to  mark  the  peaceful  divi^ons  of  agricul- 
ture. This hitast  work, I  suppose  to  be  apart  of 
the  line  of  encampment,  occupied  by  Gener|)  Bur^ 
goyne,  after  the  battle  of  the  19th  of  September, 
[and  which  was  atormed  on  the  evening  of  the  7th  of 
October.  '  ir 

The  old  man  shewed  me  the  exact  spot,  where 
an  accidental  skirmish,  between  advanced  parties,  of 
the  two  armies,  soonv  brought  on  the  general  and 
[bloody  battle  of  September  19. 

This  was  on  Freeman's  farm,  a  field  which  was 
[then  cleared,  although  surrounded  by  forest.  The 
British  picket  here  occupied  a  small  house,*  when  a 
[part  of  Colonel  Morgan's  dorps  fell  in  with^iand  im- 
mediately drove  them  from  it^  leaving  the  house  al- 
[most  ^'  encircled  with  their  dead."  The  pursuing 
[party  almost  immediately,  and  very  unexpectedly, 
[fell  in  with  the  Britisdj^  line,  and  w^'e  in  part  capr 
tured,  and  the  rest  dispersed.  «    i' 

This  incicfent occurred  at  half  past  twelve  o'clock ; 
|there  wiBts  tHen  an  intermission  till  ^ne,  when  the  ac- 
tion was  sharply  renewed ;  butlj^d  not  become  geii^ 
sral,  till  three,  from  which  time^it  raged  with  unal^«> 
|ted  (ury  till  night.  *<  The  theatr^y|iDtion"  (says  Gen- 


that  the  Amerlctm 
I  bavebeontnieat 


^  Major  Fii^^  of  the  BrftisK'  armyi 
picket  occupleo^he  house  f  both 
liferent  periods  of  Die  l&air. 


.^■ 


v:f'- 


'^"■^' 


J-1 


^ 


TOUll  BITWKBN  HAATIBBD  AND  ^USBBC. 

enil  WUkinsoni*)  was  such,  that  althougK^||i«  com- 
batants changed  ground  a  dosen  tiroes,  in  the  course 
of  the  day,  the  contest  terminated  on.  the  spot  where 
it  began.  This  may  be  explained  in  a  few  words. 
The  British  line  was  formed  on  an  eminence  in  a 
diitilpine  wood,  having  before  it  Freeman's  farm, 
an  oblong  field,  stretching  from  this  centre  towards 
it|  right,  the  ground  in  front  sloping  gently  down  to 
the  verge  of  this  field,  which  was  bordered,  on  the 
opposite  side,  by  a  close  wood  :  the  §anguinary 
scene  lay  in  the  cleared  ground,  between  the  emi- 
nence occupied  by  the  enemy,  and  the  wood  just  j 
described ;  the  fire  of  our  marksmen  from  this 
wood,  was  too  deadly  to  be  withstood,  by  the  ene- 
my, in  line,  and  when  they  gave  way  and  broke, 
our  men^rushing  from  their  covert,  pursued  them  to 
the  eminence,  where,  having  their  Banks  protected, 
they  rallied,  and  charging  in  turn,  droye  us  back  into 
the  wood,  from  whence  a  dreadful  fire,  would  agaia 
force  them  to  fall  back;  and  in  this  manner,  did 
the  battle  fluctuate,  like  waves  of  a  stormy  sea,  mm 
alternate  advantages '  for  four  hours,  "without  one 
moment's  Jii^roRp^on.  The  British  furtillery  fell 
j|itp  our  pQ^ssli^l^t  every  charge,  but  we  couiii 
illlther  ti(ipi'^the  ^pe^  upon  the  enemy  BQr  brin| 
ibem  ofi!|  /^f|i^ j^  last,  and  m 

waritpfa  match  th^JS^  i^  the  lintstock  was  invari-l 
ably,  carried  ofiT,  and  the  rapidity  ^|||^ transitional 
did  not  allow  us  time  to  provid^pfti    the  slaughi] 
*  Memoirs,  Vfl^.  I*  { 


m-. 


^ 


TO0R  BITWICN    HARTrORD    ANI>    qUEBEC, 

ter  of  this  brigade  of  artillerists  was  remarkable,  the 
Captain  (Jones)  and  thirty-six  men  being  killed  or 
wounded  out  of  forty-eight.  It  was  truly  a  gallant 
conflict,  in  which  death,  by  familiarity,  lost  his  ter- 
rors, and  certainly  a  drawn  battle,  as  night  a^Qe 
terminated  it :  the  British  army  keeping  its  gn 
in  rear  of  the  field  of  action,  and  our  corps,  when 
they  could  Ito  longer  distinguish  objects,  rotiping  to 
their  own  camp.  Yet  General  Burgoyne  daimed  a 
victory." 

It  had,  however,  with  respect  to  him,  all  the  con- 
{sequences  of  a  defeat :  his  loss  was  between  five 
and  six  hundred,  while  ours  was  but  little  more  than 
half  that  number;  his  loss  was  irreparable,  ours 
easily  repaired,  and  in  proportion  to  our  entire  ar- 
imy,  as  well  as  absolutely,  it  was  much  less  than  his. 

The  stress  of  the  action,  it  reg^BSjNlBritish, 
llay,  principally  on  the  twentieth,  t^MpWt  and 
sixty-second  regiments ;  the  latter  whtch  was  0e 
hundred  strong,  when  it  left  Canada,  was  reduced 
to  less  than  sixty  men,  ahd  to  four  or  five  officers^* 

-i  '      *  I- 

General  Burgoyne  states,  that  tbir0,intf  scarcely 


ever  an  interval  of  a  minute 
^ome  British  officer  was  not 
riflemen,  posted  in  tbi  trees,  i 
lank  of  their  own  line.  ""A 
jfor  General  Burgoyne,  t^ver 
ireen,  an  H 
?as  owing^  to 


when 

eridan 

,i^eaf'»lfd'  btf '^ 

6t  whie6  wari^ieaiii 

wotihd^d  Captaki^^ 

of  General  Phil^|>S':   tb|;  iitistake 

aptain's  having  a  rich  Itfd^  fur^ 


'«ft  •Ckirdorf.'" 


*  I] 


}••'  ■ 


fty^ 


■'*. 


f 


I' 


-).*. 


/*<•.. 


10^  TOUA  BITWBMf  HABTFOKB  AHB  ^VCBBO. 

niture  to  his  saddle,  which  caused  the  marksman  to 
mistake  him  for  the  General. 

Such  was  the  ardor  of  the  Americans,  that, 
General  Wilkinson  states,  the  wounded  men,  after  I 
having  their  wounds  dressed,  in  many  instances  re*  | 
turned  again  into  the  battle. 

The  battle  of  the  seventh  of  October,  was  fought  | 
on  the  same  ground,  but  it  was  not  so  stationary;. 
It  commenced  farther  to  the  right,  and  extended,  is 
its  various  periods,  over  more  surface,  eventually 
•ecupying  not  only  Freeman's  farm,   but  it  wu 

"urged  by  the  Americans,  to  the  very  camp  of  thi 
enemy,  which,  towards  night,  was  most  impetuous*  | 
ly  stormed,  and  in  part  carried. 
V  The  interval  between  the  nineteenth  of  Septeni« 
ber,  and  the  seventh  of  October,  was  one  of  great] 
anxiety  to  both  armies ;  **  *not  a  night  passed,  (a( 
Generil  Bitgoyne,)  without  firing,  and  sometimes! 

^4bncerted  attacks  upon  our  *  pickets ;  no  foragingl 
4>arty  could  be  made  without  great  detachments  ttl 
cover  it ;  it  was  the  plan  of  the  enemy  to  harrassl 
the  army,  by  constant  alarms,  and  their  superiorityl 
of  numbers  enaldlcl  them  to  attempt  it,  without  fa-[ 
tigue  to  tbem86l^N||i  By  being  habituated  to  fireJ 
,l|lir  soldi^ers  betoaiiit  indifferent  to  it,  and  were  ca*| 
l^ble  of  eating  oi^lileepibg  when  it  was  very  nenl 
them ;  but  I  do  not  believe  that  either  of^cer  oil 
soldier  ever  slept  during  that  injterval,'^  without  hisj 
clothes,  or  that  a;iy  general  officer  or  commandeil 
of  a  regiment,  paased  a  single  lught,  without  beiD^I 
*  state  vf  the  i;xpccliti<ia.  » 


TOVII  BETWeCN  BABTFOBS  AJID  QUEBEC.      108 


V, 


Upon  bis  legs,  occasiontlly,  at  different  hours,  and 
constantly,  an  hour  before  day  light." 

The  battle  of  the  seventli  was  brought  on  by  a 
I  movement  of  General  Burgoyne,  who  caused  on« 
I  thousand  five  hundred  men,  with  ten  pieces  of 
artillery,  to  march  towards  the  left  of  the  Amertoan 
army,  for  the  purpose  6f  discovering  whether  it  was 
possible  to  force  a  passage;  or,  incase  a  retreat  of  the 
royal  army  should  become  indispensable,  to  dislodge 
the  Americans  from  their  entrenchments,  and  also  to 
cover  a  forage,  which  had  now  become  pressingly 
necessary.  It  was  about  the  middle  of  the  after- 
noon, that  the  British  Were  observed  advancing,  and 
the  Americans,  with  small  arms,  lost  no  time  in  at- 
tacking the  B||tish  grenadiers  and  artillery,  although 
under  a  tremendous  fire  from  the  latter ;  the  battle 
soon  extended  along  the  whole  line  :  sColonel  Mor- 
gan, at  the  same  moment,  attacked,  with  his  ride- 
men,  on  the  right  wing;  Colonel  Ackland,  the  coitef 
mander  of  the  grenadiers,  fell,  wounded  ;  the  grefl^ 
adlers  were  defeated,  and  most  of  the  aitiilery  ta-  . 
[ken,  after  great  slaughter. 

After  a  most  sanguinary  contest^  of  less  than  one 
[hour,  the  discomfiture  and  retrc^  of  the  British  be- 
came general^  and  they  had  sq|^y  regained  tbpr 
camp,  before  the  lines  were  s^lUi^  with  the  grea^ 
lest  fury,  and  part  of  lord  Balct^rrad'  camp,  was  for  a 
[short  time  in  our  possession. 

I  saw  this  spot,  Imd  also  thi^t  where  the  Germans, 
lundei  C/oIonel  B|eymen,  forming  the  rtgbt  leserve 

10  ^^ 


'I 


If"' 


■* 


1 

0 


■  If, -' 
>■:■ 


110     TOUR  BfiTWBEN  HARTFQRD  AND  qUCBEC. 


1' 


M 


of  the  army,  were  stormed,  in  their  encampment, 
by  General  Learned,  and  Colonel  Brooks,  now 
Gvxvernour  Brooks,  of  Massachusetts.  General  Ar- 
nold was  wounded  on  this  occasion ;  Colonel  Brey- 
man  was  killed  ;  and  the  Germans  were  either  cap- 
tured, slain,  or  forced  to  retreat  in  the  most  precip- 
itate nianner,  leaving  the  British  encampment  on 
the  right,  entirely  unprotected,  and  liable  to  be  as- 
sailed the  next  morning.  All  the  British  officers 
bear  testimony  to  the  valour  and  obstinacy  of  the  I 
attacks  of  the  Americans.  The  fact  was,  the  Brit- 1 
ish  were  sorely  defeated,  routed,  and  vigorously 
pursued  to  their  lines,  which,  it  seems  probable, 
fe*  would  have  been  entirely  carried  by  assault,  had 
not  darkness,  as  in  the  battle  of  the  Idth,  put  an  end 
to  the  sanguinary  contest.  It  is  obvious,  from  Gen- 
eral Burgoyne*s  own  account,  and  from  the  testimo- 
ny of  his  officers,  that  this  was  a  severe  defeat ;  and  I 
fi^ch  an  one  as  has  rarely  been  experienced  by  a  | 
British  army ;  this  army  was  reduced  by  it  to  the 
greatest  distress,  and  nothing  but  night  saved  them 
from  destruction. 

'  I  was  on  the  ground  where  the  grenadiers,  and 
where  the  artillery  were  stationed.  "  Here,  upon 
this  hill,"  (said  my  hoary  guide,)  "on  the  very 
spot  where  we  now  stand,  the  dead  men  lay,  thicker  | 
than  you  ever  saw  sheaves  on  a  fruitful  harvest 
field."  "  Were  they  British,  or  Americans  ?" 
"  Both,"  he  replied,  "  but  principally  British."  I 
suppose  that  it  is  of  this  ground,  tifat  Genera]  Wil- 


'^ 


TOUR  BBTIIVEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.      11 1 

kinson  remarks,  it  "  presented  a  scene  of  compli- 
cated horror  and  exultation.  In  the  square  space 
of  twelve  or  fifteen  yards,  lay  eighteen  grenadiers, 
in  the  agonies  of  death ;  and  three  officers,  propped 
up  against  stumps  of  trees,  two  of  them  mortally 
wounded,  bleeding,  and  almost  speechless." 

My  guide,  proceeding  with  his  narrative,   said, 
<<  there  stood  a  British  field  piece,  which  had  been 

4 

twice  taken,  and  re-taken,  and  finally  remained  ii| 
our  possession  :  I  was  on  the  ground,  and  said  to 
an  American  Colonel,  who  came  up  at  the  mo«- 
ment,  *  Colonel,  we  have  taken  this  piece,  and  now 
we  want  you  to  swear  it  true  to  America  ;'  so  the 
Colonel  swore  it  true,  and  we  turned  it  around,  and 
fired  upon  the  British,  with  their  own  cannon,  and 
with  their  own  ammunition,  still  remaining  uncon- 
sumed  in  their  boxes."  I  presume  General  Wil- 
kinson alludes  to  the  same  anecdote,  when  he  says, 
"  I  found  the  courageous  Colonel  Cilley  a  straddle 
on  a  brass  twelve  pounder,  and  exulting  in  the  cap- 
ture." • 

I  was  solicitous  to  see  the  exact  spot  where  Gen- 
eral Frazer,  received  his  mortal  wound.  My  old 
guide  knew  it  perfectly  well,  and  pointed  it  out  to ' 
me.  It  is  in  a  meddow,  just  on  the  right  of  th6 
road,  after  passing  a  blacksmith'^  shop,  and  going 
south  a  few  rods.  The  blacksmith's  shop  is  on  a 
road,  which  runs  parallel  to  the  Hudson— -it  stands 
elevated,  and  overlooks  Freeman's  farm. 


^; 


■*'-■ 


m 


# 


..I 


m 


r«',iF» 


Pv   ff 


1 12  TOUR  BB9WKEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

Che  night  of  October  7th,  was  a  mo«t  critical  one 
for  the  roya]  army ;  in  the  course  of  it,  they  aban- 
f0  doned  their  camp,  changed  their  whole  position,  and 
retreated  to  their  works  upon  the  heights,  contigu- 
ous to  the  river,  and  immediately  behind  the  hos- 
pital. 

I  saw  various  places,  where  the  dead  were  inter- 
red ;  a  rivulet,  or  creek,  passes  through  the  battle 
ground,  and  still  washes  out  from  its  banks,  the 
bones  of  the  slain.  This  rivulet  is  often  mentioned 
in  the  accounts  of  these  battles,  and  the  deep  ravine 
through  which  it  passes  ;  on  our  return,  we  follow- 
ed this  ravine,  and  rivulet,  through  the  greater  part 
of  their  course,  till  they  united  with  thg  Hudson 
river. 

Farm  houses  are  dispersed,  here  and  there,  ove^ 
the  field  of  battle,  and  the  people  often  find,  elVes 
now,  gun-barrels  and  bayonets,  cannon  balls,  gi;ppe 
shot,  bullets,  and  human  bones.  0{  the  three  last,  I 
took  from  one  of  these  people,  some  painful  speci- 
mens ;— some  of  the  bullets  were  battered  and  mis- 
shaped, evincing  that  they  had  come  into  collision 
with  opposing  obstacles.. 

Entire  skeletons  are  occasionally  found  ;  a  man 
told  me,  that,  in  ploughing,  during  the  late  summer, 
he  turned  one  up ;  it  was  not  covered  more  than 
three  inches  with  earth  ;  it  lay  on  its  side^  and  the 
arms  were  in  the  form  of  a  bow.;  it  was,  probably, 
some  solitary  victim,  that  never  was  buried.  Such 
are  the  memorials  still  existing,  of  ihfse  great  mill- 

.     'I 


f^- 


*Hit' 


TOUli  BETWEEN  BARTFORD  AND  ^VEBXC.   113 

tary  events ;  great,  not  so  much  on  account  of  thiB 
numbers  of  the  actors,  as  from  the  momentous  inter- 
ests at  stake,  and  from  the  magnanimous  efforts  to 
which  they  gave  origin. 

I  would  not  envy  that  man  his  state  of  feeling,  who 
could  visit  such  fields  of  battle  without  emotion,  or 
who,  (being  an  American,)  could  fail  to  indulge  admi- 
ration and  affection,  for  the  soldiers  and  martyrs  of  -> 
liberty,  and  respect  for  the  valour  of  their  enemies. 

GENERAL  FRAZER'S  GRAVE. 

Having  taken  my  guide  home  to  breakfast,  we' 
made  use  of  his  knowledge  of  the  country,  to  iden- 
tify with  certainty,  the  place  of  General  Frazer's 
interment. 

General  Burgoyne  mentions,  two  redoubts,  that 
were  thrown  up,  on  the  hills  behind  his  hospital; 
they  are  both  still  very  distinct,  and  in  one  of  these, 
which  is  called  the  great  redoubt,  by  the  officers  of 
General  Burgoyne's  army.  General  Frazer  was  bu- 
ried. It  is  true,  it  has  been  disputed,  which  is  tlie 
redoubt  in  question,  but  our  guide  stated  to  uSf  vthat 
within  his  knowledge,  a  British  Sergeant,  thi^  or 
four  years,  after  the  surrender  of  BurgoyneVjirmf, 
came,  and  pointed  out  the  grave.  We  went  to  tho. 
spot;  it  is  within  the  redoubt,  on  the  top  of  the  hill, . 
nearest  to  the  house,  where  the  General  died,  and 
corresponds  with  the  plate  in  Anbury's  travels,  tak- 
I  en  from  an  original  drawing,  made  by  Sir  Francis 


il 


'-'1^- 


i^W 


114  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

€lfirk,  aid  to  General  Burgoyne,  and  with  the  state- 
ment of  the  General  in  bis  defence,  as  well  as  vvith 
the  account  of  Madam  Reidesel. 

General  Frazer,  when  dying,  sent  with  the  "kind- 
est expression  of  his  affection,  for  General  Burgoyne, 
a  Inquest,  that  he  might  be  carried  without  parade, 
by  the  soldiers  of  his  corps,  to  the  great  redoubt, 
and  buried  there."  .        . 

The  circumstances  of  this  memorable  interment, 
have  beeB«,pften  mentioned. 

The  body,  attended  by  General  Burgoyne,  and 
the  other  principal  officers  of  the  army,  who  could 
not  resist  the  impulse  to  join  the  procession,  moved 
winding  slowly  up  the  hill,  within  view  of  the  great- 
er part  of  both  armies,  while  an  incessant  cannonade 
from  the  Americans,  who  observed  a  collection  of  | 
people,  without  knowing  the  occasion,  covered  the 
procession  with  dust; — the  clergyman,  the  Rev. 
Mr.  Brudenel,  went  through  the  funeral  service, 
with  perfect  composure,  and  propriety,  notwithstan- 
ding the  cannonade,  and  thus  the  last  honors  were  | 
paid  one  of  the  chiefs  of  the  British  army. 

The  Baroness  Reidesel,  who  was  a  spectator,  I 
speaks  of  the  funeral  service,  as  being  "  rendered  | 
unusually  solemn  and  awful,  from  its  being  accom- 
panied by  constant  peals  from  the  enemy's  artillery,"  I 
and  adds—-"  many  cannon  balls,  flew  close  by  me, 
but  I  had  my  eyes  directed  to  the  mountain,  where^ 
my  husband  was  standing  amidst  the  fire,  Qf  the  ene- 

,  -  * 


'^'m 


■.* 


TOUR  BBTW££N  HARTFORD  AND  %USBBG.   115 

fmrt  uid  of  course,  I  could  not  think  of  my  own 
danger."  ■ 

General  Burgoyne's  eloquent  delineation  of  the 
[the  same  scene,  although  often  quoted  before  by 
lotherSi  is  too  interesting  to  be  omitted  on  the  pres- 
ent occasion: — **  The  incessant  cannonade,  during 
[the  solemnity;  the  steady  attitude  and  unaltered 
Ivoice,  with  which  the  clergyman  officiated,  though 
[frequently  covered  with  dust,  which  the  shot  threw 
liip  on  all  sides  of  him;  the  mute  but  expressive 
Iraixture  of  sensibility  and  indignation,  upon  every 
countenance;  these  objects  will  remain,  to  the  last 
)f  life,  upon  the  mind  of  every  man  who  was  present. 
'!he  growing  duskiness,  added  to  the  scenery,  and 
|the  whole  marked  a  character  of  that  juncture,  that 
k'ould  make  one  of  the  finest  subjects  for  the  pencil 
)t  a  master,  that  the  field  ever  exhibited.     To  the 
canvass  and  to  the  page  of  a  more  important" histo- 
jrian,  gallant  friend  !  I  consign  thy  memory.     There 
lay  thy  talents,  thy  manly  virtues,  their  progress 
ind  their  period,  find  due  distinction ;  and  long  may 
lliey  survive ;  long  after  the  frail  record  of  my  pen 
^hall  be  forgotten." 

The  place  of  the  interment,  was  formerly  desig- 
nated, by  a  little  fence,  surrounding  the  grave.  I 
^as  here  in  1797,  twenty-two  years  ago,  the  grave 
i^as  then  distinctly  visible,  but  the  remains  have  been 
lince  dug  up,  by  some  English  gentlemen,  and  car- 
led  to  England. 


»' 


i^\ 


1; 


m 


Si^ 


» 


!!  M 


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wl^ 

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r^^^wflD 

1 

91 

^^9 

J . 

MWijW| 

1 

1 16     T»UR  BETWKEN  MARTVOIIB  AND  QUEBEC. 

'^'  The  circumstances  of  the  British  were  now  very^ 
distressing,  and  they  constantly  expected  a  renewed 
attack  from  the  Americans.  Speaking  of  the  death 
of  General  Frazer,  General  Burgoyne  remarks: 
"The  whole  of  tho  8th  of  October  was  correspond- 
ent to  this  inauspicious  beginning.  The  hours  were 
measured  by  a  succession  of  immediate  cares,  in. 
creasing  doubts  and  melancholy  objects.  The  ene*  i 
my  were  formed  in  two  lines.  Every  part  of  their 
disposition,  as  well  as  the  repeated  attacks  on  lord 
Balcarras'  corps,  and  the  cannonade  from  the 
plain,  kept  the  troops  in  momentary  expectation  of 
a  general  action.  During  this  suspense,  wounded 
officers,  some  upon  crutches,  and  others  even  carriJ 
ed  upon  hand  barrows,>by  their  servants,  were  oc-| 
casionally  ascending  the  hill,  from  the  hospit 
tents,  to  take  their  share  in  the  action,  or  follow  the  I 
march  of  the  army.  The  Generals  were  employed  | 
in  exhorting  the  troops." 

That  commander,  who,  in  the  commencement  ofl 
the  campaign,  had  uttered  in  his  general  orders,  the! 
memorable  sentiment — "  this  army  must  not  re- 
treat," was  now  compelled  to  seek  his  safety  byl 
stealing  away  in  the  night,  from  his  victorious  ene- 
my. Numerous  fires  were  lighted— several  tentsi 
left  standing,  and  ♦be  retreat  was  ordered  to  be  con-l 
ducted  with  the  greatest  secrecy.  The  army  com-] 
menced  its  retrograde  motion  at  nine  o'clock  oij 
the  night  of  the  eighth,  pursuing  the  river  road 
through  the  meadows.    It  moved  ftU  night;  buttbtl 


^:''-^^^% 


TOITR  BETWEEN'  UAKTFOAD  AND  QUEBEC.      lit 

'succeeding  day  was  excessively  rainy,  and  the  roads 
sQ  bad)  that  they  did  not  reach  Saratoga,  a  distance 
of  only  six  miles,  till  the  evening  of  the  ninth.  The 
rains  had  so  swelled  the  Fishkill,  that  they  did  not 
pass  that  rivulet  till  the  morning  of  the  tenth,  when, 
I  finding  their  enemies  already  in  possession  of  the 
fords  of  the  Hudson,  they  took  up  a  strong  position 
[which  proved  their  final  one. 

General  Burgoyne  left  his  hospital,  containing 
imore  than  three  hundred  sick  and  wounded,  to  the 
Imercy  of  General  Gates,  who  in  this,  as  in  all  other 
linstauces,  exhibited  towards  the  enemy,  the  great- 
lest  humanity  and  kindness. 

Swords'  house,  where  Mr.  W.  and  myself  lodg- 

|c(l,  was  the  centre  of  this  military  hospital,  and  was 

jccupied  by  the  wounded  officers,  while  the  com- 

|iaon  soldiers  were  comfortably  accommodated,  in 

^he  vicinity,  in  tents. 

The  researches  and  observations  of  the  morning 
liad  detained  us  till  rather  a  late  hour,  when,  taking 
leave  of  our  venerable  guide,*  we  proceeded  north- 
Ivard  on  our  journtiy,  pursuing  exactly  the  route  of 
[he  retreating  British  army. 

"I  must  not,  however,  leave  him  without  naentioning  that  he 

vas  wounded  in  this  campaign :  he  bared  his  aged  breast,  and 

lliewed  lue  where  a  bullet  had  raked  along  superficially  cutting 

be  outer  integuments  of  the  thorax,  and  carrying  with  it  intft 

lie  wound,  portio'us  of  his  clothes. 


11 


'^ 


ite? 


fr 


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i.«pa 


S''1 


il8  TOUR  BETWUUN  HARTFORD  AND  (tU£R£C;. 


THE  LAST  ENCAMPMENT. 

Six  days  more  of  anxiety,  fatigue  and  suffering, 
remained  for  the  British  army.    They  had  lost  part 
of  their  provision  batteaux,  when  they  abandon- 
ed their  hospital,  and  the  rest  being  exposed  to  im- 
minent danger,  the  small  stock  of  provisions  re- 
maining was  landed  under  a  heavy  (ire,  and  hauled 
lip  the  heigths.     On  these  heights,  close  to  the  I 
meadows  bordering  on  the  river,  they  formed  a  for- 
tified camp,  and  strengthened  it  by  artillery.    Most 
of  the  artillery  however,  was  on  the  plain.     Gener-| 
at  Gates'  army  soon  followed  that  of  Burgoyne, 
stretched  along  south  of  the  Fishkill,  and  parallel! 
to  it;  the  corps  of  Colonel  Morgan,  lay  west  and 
north  of  the  British  army,  and   General  Pellons| 
with  three  thousand  men,  was  on  the  east  of  the  Hud- 
son, ready  to  dispute  the  passage.    Fort  Edward  wasl 
8oon  after  occupied  by  the  Americans — a  fortifiedl 
camp  was  formed  on  the  high  ground,  between  the! 
Hudson  and  Lake  George,  and,parties  were  ^tationeil| 
up  and  down  the  river;  thus,  the  desperate  resoluf 
tion  which  had  been  taken  in  General  Burgoyne'ii 
camp,  of  abandoning  their  artillery  and  bagga 
and  (with  no  more  provisions  than  they  could  can]| 
on  their  backs,)  forcing  their  way  by  a  rapid  niglii| 
march,  and  in  this  manner  gaining  one  of  the  lakeSj 
was  rendered  abortive. 


tOtJK  UETWKEN  HAUTFORD  AND  d  CEBEC.     119^ 

Every  part  of  the  camp  of  the  royalarmy  was 
exposed,  not  only  to  cannon  balls,  but  to  rifle  shot ; 
not  a  single  place  of  safety  could  be  found,  not  a  cor- 
ner where  a  council  ^ould  be  held,  a  dinner  taken 
in  peace,  or  where  the  sick,  and  the  wounded,  the 
females  and  the  children,  could  find  an  asylum. — 
Even  the  access  to  the  river  was  rendered  very  haz- 
ardous by  the  numerous  rifle  shot ;  and  the  army  * 
was  soon  distressed  for  want  of  water.  General 
Reidesel,  and  his  lady  and  children,  were  often  obli- 
<'ed  to  drink  wine  instead  of  water,  and  they  had  no 
way  to  procure  the  latter,  except  that  a  soldier^s  wife 
ventured  to  the  river  for  them,  and  the  Americans, 
out  of  respect  to  her  sex,  did  not  fire  at  her. 

To  protect  his  family  from  shot,  General  Reide- 
sel, soon  after  their  arrival  at  Saratoga,  directed 
ithem  to  take  shelter,  in  a  house,  not  far  ofT.    They 
[had  scarely  reached  it,  before  a  terrible  cannonade 
was  directed  against  that  very  house,  upon  the  mis- 
taken idea,  that  all  the  Generals  were  assembl|l)  in 
it.  "  Alas,"  adds  the  Baroness,  *'  it  contained  im»Ii« 
but  wounded  and  women  ;  we  were  at  last  obliged 
[lo  resort  to  the  cellar  for  rdfbge,  and,  in  one  corner 
of  this,  I   remained  thrf^vhole  day,  my  children 
sleeping  on  the  earth,  with  their  heads  in  my  lap, 
and,  in  the  same  situation,  I  pa&sed  a  sleepless 
ight.     Eleven  cannon  balls  passed  through  the 
ouse,  and  we  could  distinctly  hear  theid^^oU  away. 
ne  poor  soldier,  who  was  lying  on  a  table,  for  the 
urpose  of  having  his  leg  amputated,  was  struck  by 


V^-i- 


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.120  TOUB  BETWEEN  HARTVORD  AND  qVEBEC. 

a  shot  which  carried  away  his  other ;  his  comrade? 
.Jkad  left  him,  and  when  we  went  to  his  assistance, 
we  found  him  in  a  corner  of  the  room,  into  which 
he  had  crept,  more  dead  than  ^live,  scarcely  breath* 
ing.     My  reflections  on  the  danger  to  which  my 
husband  was  exposed,  now  agonized  me  exceed* 
ingly,  and  the  thoughts  of  my  children,  and  the  ne« 
cessity  of  struggling  for  their  preseiTation,  alon« 
sustained  me."     A  hcrse  of  General  Reidesel  was 
in  constant  readiness  for  his  lady  to  mount,  in  case 
of  a  sudden  retreat,  and  three  wounded  English  of- 
ficers, who  lodged  in  the  same  house,  bad  made  her 
a  solemn  promise,  that  they  would,  each  of  them. 
take  one  of  her  children  upon  a  horse,  and  fly  with 
them,  when  such  a  measure  should  become  necessa- 
ry. She  was  in  a  state  of  wretchedness  on  account  of  | 
her  husband,  who  was  in  constant  danger,  exposed 
tU  day  to  the  shot,  and  never  entering  his  tent  to 
sleep,  but  notwithstanding  the  great  cold,  lying  dowD 
whole  nights  by  the  watch  fires.     "  In  this  horrid  I 
situation,"  they  remained  six  days,  till  the* cessation 
of  hostilities,  which  ended  in  a  convention,  for  the 
surrender  of  tbf  army ;  the  treaty  was  signed  on  the  | 
sixteenth,  and  the  army  sorrendered  the  next  day.* 
On  the  present  occasion,  I  did  not  visit  the  Brit- 
^  fortified  camp.     When  I  was  here,-  in  1797,  I| 
examii^d  it  particularly.     It  was  then  in  perfect 
preservation,  (I  speak  of  the  encampment  of  tbf 


'fiaraaess  Roidteiers I^arrative,  in  Wilkinaeii'a  Memoirs. 


W 


TOUR  BETWEEN  BARTFdRB  AND  «iVEBEC.     121 


British  troops,  upon  the  hil],  near  the  Fishkill,)  the 
parapet  was  high,  and  covered  with  grass  and 
shrubs,  and  the  platforms  of  earth  to  support  the^ 
field  pieces,  were  still  in  good  condition.  No  devas- 
tation, of  any  consequence,  had  been  committed,  ex- 
cept by  the  credulous,  who  had  made  numerous  ex- 
cavations in  the  breast  works,  and  various  parts  of 
the  encampments,  for  the  purpose  of  discovering 
the  money,  which  the  officers  were  supposed  to 
have  buried,  and  abandoned.  It  is  scarcely  neces* 
sary  to  add,  that  they  never  found  any  money,  for 
private  property  was  made  sacred  by  the  conven- 
tion, and  even  the  public  military  chest  was  not 
disturbed :  the  British  retained  every  shilling  that 
it  contained.  Under  such  circumstances,  to  have 
I  buried  their  money,  would  have  been  almost  as 
I  ffeaX  a  folly,  as  the  subsequent  search  for  it.  This 
infatuation,  has  not  however  gone  by,  even  to  this 
hour,  and  still,  every  year,  new  pits  are  excavated 
by  the  insatiable  money  diggers.* 


% 


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I 


THE  FIELD  OF  SURRENDER. 


* 


We  arrived  at  this  interesting  spot,  in  a  very  fine 
[Morning ;  the  sun  shone,  with  great  splendor,  upon 

'This  appears  to  be  a  very  common  popular  delusion  ;  in  many 
Usees,  on  the  Hudson,  and  about  the  lalces,  where  armies  bad 
sin,  or  moved,  we  found  money-pits  dug ;  and,  in  one  place, 
hey  told  us,  that  a  man  bought  of  a  poor  widow,  the  right  of 
tigging  in  her  ground  for  the  hidden  treasure.  V    *^ 

u*         .  P  ■ 


^'■ 


^ 


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Jif! 


./Hk. 


192    TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTrORD  AND  <iUEBEC. 

the  Ifowing  Hudson,  and  upon  the  beautiful  heights, 
and  the  luxuriant  meadows,  now  smiling  in  rich  ver- 
pRure,  and  exhibiting  images  of  tranquility  and  loveli- 
ness, very  opposite  to  the  horrors  of  war,  which  were 
once  witnessed  here. 

The  Fishkill,  swollen  by  abundant  rains,  (as  ii 
was  on  the  morning  of  October  10th,  1777,  when 
General  Burgoyne  passed  it  with  his  artillery,)  now 
poured  a  turbid  torrent  along  its  narrow  channel, 
and  roaring  down  the  declivity  of  the  hills,  hastened 
to  mingle  its  waters  with  those  of  the  Hudson. 

It  was  upon  the  banks  of  the  Fishkill,  that  tlie 
British  army  surrendered.     We  passed  the  ground, 
where  stood  the  tents  of  General  Gates,  and  where 
he  received  General  Burgoyne,  and  the  principal 
officers  of  his  army.     General  Wilkinson's  account  | 
of  this  interview  is  interesting  :  "  Early  in  the  morn- 
ing of  the  17th,  I  visited  General  Burgoyne  in  his  I 
camp,  and  accompanied  him  to  the  ground,  where 
his  army  was  to  lay  down  their  arms,  from  whence 
we  rode  to  the  bank  of  the  Hudson's  river,  which 
he  surveyed  with  attention,  and  asked  me  whether 
it  was  not  fordable.    *  Certainly,  Sir ;  but  do  you  ob- 
serve the  people  on  the  opposite  shore .'"  *  Yes,  (re- 
plied he,)  I  have  seen  them  too  long.'     He  ihcDl 
proposed  to  be  introduced  to  General  Gates,  and 
we  crossed  the  Fishkill,  and  proceeded  to  head 
quarters.  General  Burgoyne  in  front, 'with  his  adju*] 
tant-General  Kingston,  and  his  aids  de  camp  Cap- 
tain lord  Petersham,  and  Lieutenant  Wilford  behitit 


TOUR  BETWEEN  UARTFOBD  AND  ^UCHEC.     125 

him;  then  followed  Major  General  Phillips,  the 
Daren  Reidesel,  and  the  other  General  dfHcers,  and 
their  suites,  according  to  rank.  General  Gates,  ad-' 
vised  of  Burgoyne's  approach,  met  him  at  the  head 
of  his  camp,  Burgoyne  in  a  rich  royal  uniform,  and 
Gates  in  a  plain  blue  frock ;  when  they  had  ap- 
proached nearly  within  swords*  length,  they  reined 
up,  and  halted,  I  then  named  the  gentlemen,  and 
General  Burgoyne,  raising  his  hat  mos«  gracefully, 
said  '  The  fortune  of  war,  General  Gates,  has  made 
me  your  prisoner  ;*  to  which  the  conqueror,  return- 
ing a  courtly  salute,  promptly  replied,  *  I  shall  al- 
ways be  ready  to  bear  testimony,  that  it  has  not 
been  through  any  fault  of  your  excellency.'  Major 
General  Phillips  then  advanced,  and  he,  and  Gene- 
I  ral  Gates  saluted,  and  shook  hands  with  the  famil- 
iarity of  old  acquaintances.  The  Baron  Reide- 
sel, and  the  other  officers,  were  introdueed  in  their 


>» 


! turn. 

We  passed  the  ruins  of  General  Schuyler's  house, 

I  which  are  still  conspicuous,  and  hastened  to  the  field 
where  the  British  troops  grounded  their  arms.     Al- 

I  though,  in  1797,  I  paced  it  over  with  juvenile  en- 
thusiasm,* I  felt  scarcely  less  interested  on  the 
present  occasion,  and  again  walked  over  the  whole 
tract.  It  is  a  beautiful  meadow,  situated  at  the  in- 
tersection of  the  Fishkill  with  the  Hudson,  and  north 

[of  the  former.     There  is  nothing  now  to  distinguish 

*  In  company  with  the  Hon.  John  Elliott,  now  a  Senator  from 
[Georgia,  and  John  Wynn  Esq.  from  the  same  State. 


■■.,4. 


%■ 


124    TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFOKD  AND  QUEBEC?. 


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the  spot,  except  the  ruins  of  old  Fort  Hardy,  built 
during  the  French  wars,  and  the  deeply  interesting 
^historical  associations  which  will  cause  this  place  to 
be  memorable  to  the  latest  generation.  Thousands 
and  thousands,  yet  unborn,  will  visit  this  spot,  with 
feelings  of  the  deepest  interest,  and  it  will  not  be 
forgotten  till  Thermopyloe,  and  Marathon,  and  Ban* 
nockburn  and  Waterloo,  shall  cease  to  be  remem- 
bered. There,  it  will  be  said,  were  the  last  en- 
trenchments of  a  proud  invading  army ;  on  that  spot 
stood  their  formidable  park  of  artillery — and  here, 
on  this  now  peaceful  meadow,  they  piled  their  arms! 
their  arms,  no  longer  terrible,  but  now  converted 
into  a  glorious  trophy  of  victory  ! 

REFLECTIONS  AND  REMARKS. 

I  have  adverted  but  little  to  the  sufferings  of  the 
American  army,  because  but  little,  comparatively,  is 
known  of  what  they  individually  endured.    Except- 
ing the  inevitable  casualties  of  bi^tle,  they  must  have  I 
suffered  much  less  than  tbeir  eneriiies ;  for  they  soob 
ceased  to  be  the  flying,  and  became  the  attacking! 
and  triumphant  party.     Colonels  Colburn,  Adams, 
Francis  an4%nany  other  brave  officers  and  men,  I 
gave  up  their  lives,  as  the  price  of  their  country's 
liberty,  and  very  many  carried  away  with  them  the 
scars  produced  by  honourable  wounds.    The  brave- 1 
ry  of  the  American  army  was  fully  acknowledged 
by  their  adversaries. 


W^S- 


% 


TOUll  BETWEEN  HAKtlTOltn  1^0  QUEBEC.     125 


"  At  all  times,"  said  Lord  Balcarras,  "  when  I 
was  opposed  to  the  rebels,  they  fought  with  great 
courage  and  obstinacy."  "  We  were  taught  by  ex- 
perience, that  neither  their  attacks  nor  resistance 
was  to  be  despised."  Speaking  of  the  retreat  of  the 
Americans,  from  Ticonderoga,  and  of  their  behav- 
iour at  the  battle  of  Hubberton,  Lord  Balcarras 
iidds :  "  circumstanced  as  the  enemy  were,  as  an 
j  army  very  hard  pressed,  in  their  retreat,  they  cer- 
tainly behaved  with  great  gallantry  ;"  of  the  attack 
on  the  lines,  on  the  evening  of  the  7th  of  October, 
he  says :  "  the  lines  were  attacked,  and  with  as 
[much  fury  as  the  lire  of  small  arms  can  admit." 

Lord  Balcarras,  had  said,  that  he  never  knew  the 
Americans  to  defend  their  entrenchments,  but  ad- 
(ded :  "  the  reason  why  they  did  not  defend  their  en- 
Itrenchments  was,  that  they  always  marched  out  of 
|them  and  attacked  us."     Captain  MoRy,  in  an- 
swer to  the  question,  whether  on  the  19th  of  Sep- 
tember, the  Americans  disputed  the  field  with  ob- 
stinacy, answered^"  they  did,  and  the  fire  was 
uich  hotter  than  Fever  knew  it  any  where,  except 
It  the  affair  of  Fort  Anne,"  and  speaking  of  the  bat- 
\\e  of  October  7th,  and  of  the  moment  when  the 
Lmericans,   with   nothing   but    small   arihs,   w^ere 
larching  up  to  the  British  artillery,  he  adds  :  "  I 
i'as  very  much  astonished,  to  hear  the  shot  from 
16  enemy,'  fly  so  thick,  after  our  cannonade  hi|^ 
isted  a  quarter  of  an  hour."     General  Burgoyne 
|[ives  it  as  his  opinion,  that  as  rangers,  **  perhapi 


k 


126   TOtTR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

there  are  few  better  in  the  world,  tlian  the  corps  ol 
Virginia  riflemen  which  acted  under  Colonel  Mor- 
gan." He  says,  speaking  of  the  battle  of  September 
19tb,  that,  ''few  actions  have  been  characterised  by 
more  obstinacy,  in  attack  or  defence.  The  British 
bayonet  was  repeatedly  tried  ineffectually." 
t  Remarking  upon  the  battle  of  the  7th  of  Octo- 
ber, he  observes :  "  if  there  be  any  persons  whe 
continue  to  doubt  that  the  Americans  possess  the 
quality  and  faculty  of  fighting,  call  it  by  whatever 
term  they  please,  they  are  of  a  prejudice,  that  it 
would  be  very  absurd  longer  to  contend  with  ;"  hi  | 
says,  that  in  this  action  tho  British  troops  "  retreat- 
ed hard  pressed,  but  in  good  order,"  and  that  "  the  I 
troops  had  scarcely  entered  the  camp,,  when  it  was 
stormed  with  great  fury,  the  enemy  rushing  to  the 
lines,  under  a  severe  fire  of  grape  shot  and  sroalt 


arms. 


» 


In  a  private  letter,  addressed  to  Lord  George 
Germain,  after  the  surrender,  he  says,  "  I  should 
now  hold  myself  unjustifiable,  iC  I  did  not  confide 
to  your  Lordship,  my  opinion,  lipon  a  near  inspec- 
tion of  the  rebel  troops.  The  standing  corps  thatl 
I  have  seen,  are  disciplined.  I  do  not  hazard  the 
term,  but  apply  it  to  the  great  fundamental  points 
of  military  institution,  sobriety,  subordination,  regu-[ 
larity  and  courage." 

It  is  very  gratifying  to  every  real  American  tol 
find,  that  for  so  great  a  prize,  his  countrymen,  (theitl 
enemies  themselves  being  judgea,)  contended  sol 


■i^:. 


'■t||(Hj*»' 


f-*' 


<V'> 


XOUfi  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  i^UEBSC.    127 

QoblX)  and  that  their  conduct  for  bravery,  skill  and 
humanity,  will  stand  the  scrutiny  of  all  future  ages. 
From  the  enemy  it  becomes  us  not  to  withhold 
the  commendation  that  is  justly  due ;  all  that  skill 
and  valour  could  effect,  they  accomplished,  and 
they  were  overwhelmed  at  last  by  complicated  dis- 
{tresses,  and  by  very  superior  numbers,  amounting 
I  at  the  time  of  the  surrender,  probably,  to  three  for 
one,  although  the  disparity  was  much  less,  in  the 
two  great  battles. 

The  vaunting  proclamation  of  General  Burgoyne, 
[at  the  commencement  of  the  campaign ;    some  of 
his  boasting  letters,  written  during  the  progress  of 
it,  and  his  devastation  of  private  property  reflect  no 
[honour  on  his  memory.     But,  in  general,  he  ap- 
Ipears  to  have  been  a  humane  and  honourable  man, 
la  scholar  and  a  gentleman,  a  brave  soldier  and  an 
[able  commander.    .Some  of  his  sentiralbts  have  a 
Ibigher  moral  tone  than  is  common  with  men  of  his 
[profession,  and  have  probably  procured  for  him 
[more  respect,  than  all  his  battles.     Speiking  of  the 
[battleof  the  7th,  he  says,  "  in  the  course  of  the  ac- 
tion, a  shot  had  passed  through  my  hat,  and  another 
lad  torn  my  waistcoat.     I  should  be  sorry  to  be 
§ht,  at  any  time,  insensible  to  the  protecting 
laud  of  Providence  ;  butl  ever  m#e). particularly 
considered  (and  I  hope  not  superstitiously)  a  sol- 
lier's  hair  breadth  escapes  as  incentives  to  duty,  a 
larked  renewal  of  the  trust  of  being,  for  the  pur- 
)oses  of  a  public  station^  and  under  that  reflection. 


% 


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i)>' 


128    TOUR  BETWEEN  BARTtOHB  AND  ^UCRKC. 


P$i 


to  lose  our  fortitude,  by  giving  way  to  our  affee- 
tioQS  ;  to  be  divested  by  any  possible  selt'-emotion 
from  meeting  a  present  exigency,  with  our  best  fac- 
ulties, were  at  once  dishonour  and  impiety." 

Thus   have   I  adverted,  I   hope  not  with  too 
much  particularity,  to  some   of  the   leading  cir- 
cumstances of  the  greatest  military  event  which  has 
ever  occurred  in  America ;  but  compared  with  the 
whole  extent  and  diversity  of  that  campaign,  tlie  I 
above  notices,  however  extended,  are  few  and  brief.  | 
I  confess,  I  have  reviewed  them  with  a  very  deep  in- 
terest, and  have  been  willing  to  hear  some  of  the  dis- 
tinguished actors  speak  in  their  own  language.—  I 
Should  the  notice  of  these  great  evenis  tend,  in  any 
instF.nce,  to  quench  the  odious  fires  of  party,  and  to 
rekindle  those  of  genuine  patriotism — should  it  re- 
vive in  any  one,  a  veneration  for  the  virtues  oil 
those  meii%ho  faced  death,  in  every  form,  regard- 
less of  their  own  lives,  and  bent  only  on  securing  to  | 
posterity,  the  precious  blessings,  which  we  now  en- 
joy; and  above  all,  should  we  thus  be"  led  to  cher- 
ish a  higher  sense  of  gratitude  to  heaven,  for  our  un-| 
unexampled  privileges,  and  to  use  them  more  tem- 
perately and  wisely,    the   time    occupied  in  this  I 
sketch,  will  not  have  been  spent  in  vain.     Histoi;! 
presents  no  struggle  for  liberty,  which  has  in  it 
more  of  the  moral  sublime  than  that  of  the  Ameri-I 
can   revolution.     It   has  been,  of  late  years,  tool 
much  forgotten,  in  the  sliarp  contentions  of  party, 
and  he  who  endeavours  to  withdraw  the  public  mind  I 


,^^- 


TOURBETtiTEEN  HARtFORO  AND  QUEBEC.     129. 

from  those  debasing  conflicts,  and  to  fix  it  on  the 
grandeur  of  that  great  epoch — which,  magnificent 
iri  itself,  begins  now,  to  wear  the  solemn  livery  of  an- 
tiquity ^  as  it  is  viewed  through  the  deepening  twilight 
gf  almost  half  a  century,  certainly  performs  a  meri- 
torious service,  and  can  scarcely  need  a  justification. 
The  generation  that  sustained  the  conflict,  is  now  al- 
most passed  away ;  a  few  hoary  heads  remain,  seam- 
ed with  honourable  scars — a  few  experienced  guides 
can  still  attend  us  to  the  fields  of  carnage,  and  point 
out  the  places  where  they  and  their  companions 
fought  and  bled,  and  where  sleep  the  bones  of  the 
slain.  But  these  men  will  soon  be  gone  ;*  tradi- 
tion and  history,  will,  however,  continue  to  recite 
j  their  deeds,  and  the  latest  generations  will  be  taught 
to  venerate  the  defenders  of  our  liberties — to  visit 
the  battle-grounds,  which  were  moistened  with  their 
blood,  and  to  thank  the  mighty  God  of  battles,  that  the 
arduous  conflict,  terminated  in  the  entire  establish- 
|ment  of  the  liberties  of  this  country. 

I  cannot  suppress,  the  expression  of  the  pleasure,  \t'Uh  which, 
I  few  days  since,  I  observed  bis  Excellency  Governor  Brooks,  still 
vigorous  and  alert,  occupying  a  station  of  useful  and  honourable 
eminence,  and  receiving  a  voluntary  tribute  of  respect  from  his 
tellow  citizens  at  Boston,  almost  forty  three  years  after  he  so  gaN 
luntly  carried  the  camp  of  Colonel  Breyroan,  oa  the  evening  of  Oc- 
|ober  7, 1777,  and  contributed,  most  essentially,  (as  well  as  on 
nany  other  occasions)  to  the  happ^^  issue  of  the  campaign.-^ 
iJune,  1820.)  ^     :: ! 


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130     TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTVORD  AND  (QUEBEC. 

STILLWATER  TO  SANDY-HILL. 

This  ride  of  twenty-two  miles  we  took  before  din- 
ner. After  viewing  the  field  of  surrender,  which  is 
seven  miles  above  Stillwater,  and  thirty-two  above 
Albany,  we  passed  on  two  miles  farther,  to  the 
bridge,  at  Fort  Miller,  where  we  crossed  to  the 
eastern  side  of  the  Hudson. 

On  coming  near  the  head  waters  of  this  river,  \re' 
begin  to  tread  on  ground  famous,  not  only  in  the 
war  of  the  revolution,  but,  in  those  numerous  and 
bloody  campaigns,  of  a  still  earlier  date,,  in  which 
the  French  and  the  savages  carried  fire  and  slaugh* 
ter,  into  the  vast  frontier  of  the  northern  English 
Colonies.  The  contests  then  sustained,  were  dis- 
tinguished by  immense  sacrifices,  efforts  and  suffer- 
ings on  the  part  of  the  English  Colonies  ;  sacrifices, 
efforts  and  sufferings,  which,  notwithstanding  the 
great  aids,  occasionally  received,  from  the  mother 
country,  scarcely  admitted,  for  a  long  course  of 
years,  of  any  serious  and  permanent  intermission. 
Fort  Miller  was  one  of  the  posts  established  in  those 
wars,  and  formed  a  link  in  the  chain,  which  con- 
nected the  upper  waters  of  the  Hudson  with  those 
of  the  lakes  George  and  Champlain,  and  of  course, 
with  Canada.  Fort  Miller,  is  completely  levelled, 
and  I  know  not  of  any  jUticular  event,  of  sigi 
importance,  connected  with  its  history,  except  thatj 
here,  or  a  little  way  below,  General  Burgoyne, 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HAKTFORD  AND  qUEBEC  131 

when  proceeding  to  Stillwater,  on  the  13th  and  14th 
of  September,  1777,  passed  most  of  his  army  over 
*he  Hudson. 

From  this  place  we  pursued  our  journey,  along 
the  left  bank  of  the  river,  to  Fort  Edward,  and  San- 
dy Hill. 

In  the  whole  distance,  from  Albany  to  the  latter 
place,  (nearly  fifty  miles,)  there  is  scarcely  a  hill, 
even  of  moderate  elevation,  and  the  scenery  is  ex- 
tremely similar  to  that  which,  I  have  already  de*- 
scribed. 

The  river,  sprinkled  with  islands,  flows  through 
beautiful  meadows,  and  appears,  in  many  places, 
smooth  and  glassy  as  a  mirror,  and  its  motion  is 
scarcely  perceptible,  either  to  sight  or  hearing; 
again,  it  is  agitated,  and  with  lipples  and  waves,  is 
urged  over  a  shallow  and  rocky  bottom,  or,  dashes 
rapidly,  down  a  more  sudden  and  more  rocky  de- 
clivity ;  but,  in  every  variety  of  surface,  it  forms  al- 
ways, a  pleasing  and  interesting  object. 


f 


"U 


GEOLOGY. 

It  was  not  in  my  power,  to  make  tnany  very 
cise  observations  on  the  nature  of  the  hills,  by  wh| 
the  meadows  are  bounded.  On  Bemus'  heigh 
the  soil  and  forest,  hid  almost  every  rock  from 
view ;  the  solitary  pr<|fections  were,  however,  gen- 
erally ^aty,  like  the  rocks  along  the  river,  which, 
with  very  few  exceptions,  were  slate — of  the  irans- 


t^: 


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132  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

ition  class,  (as  I  suppose  ;)  the  direction  of  the  stra- 
ta was,  more  generally,  like  that  of  the  other  great 
rock  formations  of  the  north  :  that  is,  somewhat  to 
the  east  of  north,  and  to  the  west  of  south ;  their  dip 
appeared  extremely  variable,  but  I  believe  they 
were  never  flat,  nor  vertical,  and  the  structure  of  the 
strata  was  often,  extremely  confused  and  tortuous.^ 

FORT  EDWARD. 

At  this  Fort,  we  first  observed  the  canal,  whicli 
is  destined  to  connect  the  head  waters  of  Lake 
Champlain  with  those  of  the  Hudson.  It  is  now  on 
the  point  of  bein^'  united  with  this  river,  and  they 
are  constructing  the  walls  of  the  Canal  of  a  very 
handsome  hewn  stone :  it  is  obtained,  as  I  am  in- 
Ibrmed,  near  Fort  Anne,  and  presents  to  the  eye, 
jpded  by  a  magnifier,  very  minute  plates  and  veins, 
which  feebly  effervesce,  with  acids,  and  appear  to 
enclose  an  extremely,  fine  black  mineral,  resem- 
bling hornblende ;  the  stone  is  impressed  by  steel, 
and  feebly  fires  with  it ;  is  it  a  peculiar  kind  of  cal- 
careous sand  stone  ?  It  is  of  a  dark  hue,  and  is 
ahaped  into  h^dsome  blocks,  by  the  tools  of  the 
workmen.  I  was  gratified  to  see  such  firm  and 
massy  walls  constructed  of  t^is  stone ;  indeed,  in  point 

*  The  observations  of  Mr.  Amos  Eaton,  (Index  to  the  Geology 
of  the  Northern  Slates,  second  edition,)  of  Dr.  William  M«ade, 
(Experimental  Enquiry,  &c.)  and  of  Dr.  John  H.  Steel,  (Analysi; 
of  the  Mineral  waters  of  Saratoga,  &lc.)  maybe  advantageously 
consulted  as  to  the  geology  of  the  regions  boriteciog  on  the  upper 
waters  of  the  Hudson. 


• 


M 


TOUK  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.   133 


of  solidity  and  beauty,  they  would  do  honour  to  the 
modern  wet  docks  of  Great  Britain. 

It  is  inteflded  to  have  a  lock  at  this  place,  where 
there  is  a  considerable  descent  into  the  Hudson. 

There  is  a  village  at  Fort  Edward,  bearing  the 
same  name,  and  I  ought  to  have  remarked  that 
there  are  villages,  at  Stillwater,  Saratoga  and  Fort 
Miller ;  but  there  is  nothing  particularly  interesting 
in  either  of  them.  Fort  Edward,  however,  is  me- 
morable, on  account  of  its  former  importance  ;  It  is 
situated  near  the  great  bend  of  the  Hudson,  and 
formed  the  immediate  connexion  with  Lake  George, 
which  is  sixteen  miles,  and  with  Lake  Champlain, 
which  is  twenty-two  miles  distant.  It  was  origin- 
ally only  an  entrenched  camp,  and  was  constructed  by 
the  unfortunate  Colonel  Williams,  afterwards  slain, 
in  1755,  near  Lake  George ;  but  as  its  situation 
was  important,  it  was  soon  converted  into  a  regular 
Foi't.  Its  walls,  built  of  earth,  were  raised  thirty 
feet  high,  with  ditches  corresponding  in  depth  and 
width,  and  it  was  defended  by  cannon.  It  stands 
on  the  brink  of  the  Hudson,  and  the  embankment 
was  continued  along  the  river. 

The  walls  appear  to  be,  in  some  places,  still 
twenty  feet  high,  Notwithstanding  what  time  and 
the  plough  have  done  to  reduce  them  ;  for  the  in-^ 
terior  of  the  Fort,  and  in  some  places,  the  parapet 
are  now  planted  with  potatoes, 

I  know  not  that  this  Fort  was  ever  beseiged  oir 
stormed,  alth0u|h  it  was  oftea  threatened*    In  the 

12* 


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134  TOUR  BETWIIN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

last  French  war,  it  was  an  important  station,  and  ia 
General  Buigoyne's  campaign,  it  formed  the  me- 
dium of  communication  with  Lake  Gec^ge,  whence 
the  provisions  were  brought  forward  for  the  use  of 
the  British  army,  which  was  detained  on  this  ac- 
count, at  and  near  Fort  Edward,  for  six  weeks,  by 
which  means,  they  lost  the  best  part  of  the  season 
for  milhary  operations — as  they  moved  down  the 
river, 'they  relinquished  the  connexion  with  Fori 
£dvv£|rd  and  Lake  George,  and  were  never  able  to 
recover  it. 


MASSACRE  OF. MIb3- M'CRE A. 

'  The  story  of  this  unfortunate  yupung  lady  is  well 
known,  nor  should  I  mention  it  now,  but  for  the  fact, 
that  the  place  of  her  murder  was  pointed  out  to  us, 
sear  Fort  Edward.  _ 

We  saw,  and  conversed  with  a  person,  who  was 
acquainted  with  her,  and  with  her  family;  they  re- 
sided in  the  village  of  Fort  Edward. 

It  seems,  she  was  betrothed  to  a  Mr.  Jones,  an 
American  refugee,  who  was  with  Burgoyne's  army, 
and  being  anxious  to  obtain  possession  of  his  expect- 
ed bride,  he  dispatched  a  party  of  Indians  to  escort 
ker  to  the  British  army.  Where  were  his  affection 
and  his  gallantry,  that  he  did  not  go  himself,  or  at 
least  that  he  did  not  accompany  bis  savage  emk^ 
Tie*! 


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XOUR  BETWIEN  HIRTTORD  AND  QUEBEC      135 


Sorely  against  the  wishes  and  remonstrances  of 
her  friends,  she  committed  herself  to  the  care  of 
these  fiends ; — strange  infatuation  in  her  lover,  to 
solicit  such  a  confidence — stranger  presumption  in 
her,  to  yield  to  his  wishes;  what  treatment  had  she 
not  a  right  to  expect  from  such  guardians ! 

The  party  set  forward,  and  she  on  horseback; 
they  had  proceeded,  not  more  than  half  a  mile  from 
Fort  Edward^  when  they  arrived  at  a  spring,  and 
halted  to  drink.  The  impatient  lover  had,  in  the 
mean  time,  dispatched  a  second  party  of  Indians, 
on  the  same  errand ;  they  came,  at  the  unfortunate 
moment,  to  the  same  spring,  and  a  collision  imme- 
diately ensued,  as  to  the  promised  reward.* 

Both  parties  were  now  attacked,  by  the  whites, 
and  at  the  end  of  the  conflict,  the  unhappy  young 
woman  was  found  tomahawked,  scalped  and  (as  is 
said,)  tied  fast  to  a  pine  tree  just  by  the  spring. 
Tradition  reports,  that  the  Indians  divided  the  scalp, 
and  that  each  party  carried  half  of  it  to  the  agonized 
lover. 

This  beautiful  spring,  which  still  flows  limpid 
and  cool,  from  a  bank  near  the  road  side,  and  this 
fatal  tree  we  saw.  The  tree  which  is  a  large  and 
ancient  pine,  "  fit  for  the  mast  of  some  tall  ammiral" 
is  wounded,  in  many  places,  by  the  balls  of  the 
whites,  fired  at  the  Indians;  they  have  been  dug  out 
as  far  as  they,  could  be  reached,  but  others  still  re- 
main in  this  ancient  tree,  which  seems  a  striking  ejnA- 

*  Which  is  Mid  to  have  bee.9  parrel  of  r«ol. 


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136  TOUa  BBTWltN  HARTFORD  AND  qUKBEC. 

bleiDi  of  wounded  innocence,  and  the  trunk,  twist- 
ed off  at  a  considerable  elevation,  by  some  vio- 
lent wind,  that  has  left  only  a  few  mutilated  branch- 
es, is  a  happy,  although  painful  memorial  of  the 
fate  of  Jenne  M'Crea.* 

Her  name  is  inscribed  on  the  tree,  with  the  date 
1777,  and  no  traveller  passes  this  spot,  without 
spending  a  plaintive  moment  in  contemplating  the 
untimely  fate  of  youth  and  loveliness. 

The  murder  of  Miss  M*Ctea,  (a  deed  of  such 
atrocity  and  cruelty  as  scarcely  to  admit  of  aggrava- 
tion,) occurring  as  it  did,  at  the  moment  when  Gen- 
eral Burgoyne,  whose  army  was  then  at  Fort 
Anne,  was  bringing  with  him  to  the  invasion  of  the 
American  States,  hordes  of  savages,  **  those  hell- 
hounds of  war,"f  whose  known  and  established 
mode  of  warfare,  were  those  of  promiscuous  massa- 
cre,! electrified  the  whole  continent,  and  indeed, 

*  General  Hoyt  of  Deerfield,  informs  me,  that  the  received  ac« 
eonnts  of  the  circumstances  attending  the  murder  of  Miss  M'Cret 
are  in  some  particulars  incorrect;  he  states,  that  he  has  ascertain* 
•d  that  she  was  not  murdered  at  this  spring,  but  in  th«  road,  at  a 
liUlt  difltaoee  from  it. 

^.;  f  Lord  Chatham. 

I  It  is  true  that  General  Burgoyne,  in  his  celebrated  speech  to 
the  Indians,  at  tlie  river  Boquet,  at  the  opening  of  the  campaign, 
(June  24, 1777,)  reprobated  such  proceedings,  and  lx>und  the  sav- 
ages, (whom  however  he  called  "  brothers"  and  "friends,")  dovo 
to  European  rules  of  warfare ;  but,  who  would  expect,  that  a  fine 
speech  and  afew  rhetorical  iloari8hes,even  if  sanctioned  by  re  wardi 
and  punishments  in  project  would  restrainihe  habitual,  I  bad  al- 
Most  said,  tbt  inntUe  fero^  of  to  Americu  barbarian.    All  that 


!»,»*■■ 


•»■ 


TOUR  BKTWEEN  BARTFORD  AND  qUElIC.   1S7 

the  civilized  world,  producing  an  universal  burst  of 
horror  and  indignation.     General  Gates  did  not  fail . 
to  profit  by  the  circumstance,  and  in  a  severe  but, 
too  personal  remonstrance,  which  he  addressed  to 
General  Burgoyne,  charged  him  with  the  guilt  of  the 
murder,  and  with  that  of  many  other  similar  atrocities. 
His  real  guilt f  or  that  of  his  government,  was,  in  em- 
ploying the  savages  at  all  in  the  war;  in  other  res- 
pects he  appears  to  have  had  no  concern  with  the  trans- 
action ;  in  his  reply  to  General  Gates,  he  thus  vindi- 
cates himself:  **  In  regard  to  Miss  M'Crea,  her  fall 
wanted  not  the  tragic  display  you  have  laboured  to 
give  it,  to  make  it  as  sincerely  lamented  and  abhor- 
I  red  by  me,  as  it  can  be  by  the  tenderest  of  her 
friends.     The  fact  was  no  premeditated  barbarity. 
On  the  contrary,  two  chiefs  who  had  brought  her 
off,  for  the  purpose  of  security,  not  of  violence  to 
her  person,  disputed  which  should  be  her  guard, 
land  in  a  fit  of  savage  passion,  in  one,  from  whose 
[hands  she  was  snatched,  the  unhappy  woman  be- 
tcame  the  victim.     Upon  the  first  intelligence  of  tliis 
[event,  I  obliged  the  Indians  to  deliver  the  murder- 
er into  my  hands,  and  though,  to  have  punished 


y 


liitppened,  might  therefore  have  been  anticipated,  and  had  Gene- 
lal  Burguyne's  army  continued  to  be  successful,  the  savages,instead 
pf  deserting  him,  as  they  did,  in  the  hour  *<  of  his  utmost  need," 
Hould  have  spread  murder  and  desolation  every  where,  in  spite 
^f  speeches,  rules  or  remonstrances. 

The  French,  the  English  and  Ihe  Americans,  are  however,  alL 
|hargeable  with  a  common  guilt,  differing  however  in  degree,  in 
[oiploying  the  savatts,  in  the  various  wars  on  this  continent. 


*pf- 


"^ 


I  If* 


^11 


138     TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  (QUEBEC. 

him  by  our  laws,  or  principles  of  justice,  would  have 
been  perhaps  unprecedented,  he  certainly  should 
have  suffered  an  ignominious  death,  had  I  not  been 
convinced  by  my  circumstances  and  observation,  be> 
yond  the  possibility  of  a  doubt,  that  a  pardon  under 
the  terms  which  I  presented,  and  they  accepted, 
would  be  more  efficacious  than  an  execution,  to  pre- 
vent similar  mischiefs." 


SANDY  HILL,  AND  THE  MASSACRE  THERE. 

Sandy  Hill*  "  is  delightfully  situated  just  above 
Baker's  falls — it  contains  a  woollen  manufactory,  a  I 
court  house,  a  bank,  an  academy  for  young  ladies 
and  about  eighty  houses/'     This  pretty,  and  flour* 
ishing  village  is  regularly  laid  out,  and  composed  of  I 
neat  and  handsome  houses,  many  of  which  surround 
a    beautiful  central  green.     The  village  of  Sandy 
Hill  is  of  recent  origin,  and  the  scite  on  which  it{ 
stands,  was  formerly  the  scene  of  Indian  barbari- 
ties...x 

]^rom  Mr.  H.  a  very  respectable  inhabitant,  1 1 
learned  the  following  singular  piece  of  history. 

Old  Mr.  Schoonhoven,  recently  living  in  this  vi- 
cinity, and  probably  still  surviving,  although  at  die  I 
great  age  of  more  than  fourscore,  informed  Mr.  H. 
that  during  the  last  French  war,  he,  and  six  or  seven 
other  Americans  coming  through  the  w'ldemess, 
from  Fort  William  Henry,   at  the  head  of  Lakej 


*  Worcester's  Gazcte»^r. 


.^ 


^^1^ 


lOUB  BETWEEN  HABTF«RI>  ANB  %¥£BEC.>     139 

George,  to  Sandy  Hill,  had  the  misfortune  to  be  ta^ 
ken  prisoners  by  a  party  of  the  savages.    They  were 
conducted  to  the  spot,  which  is  now  the  central 
sreen  of  Sandy  Hill,  and  ordered  to  sit  down  in  a 
row,  upon  a  log.    Mr.  Schoonhoven  pointed  out  to 
Mr.  H.  the  exact  place  #here  the  log  lay ;  it  was 
nearly  in  front  of  ^e  house,   where   we   dined. 
The  Indians  then  began,   very    deliberately,    to 
tomahawk  their  victims,  commencing  at  one  end 
of  the  log,  and  splitting  the  skulls  of  their  prison- 
ers, in  regular    succession;    while    the  survivors, 
compelled  to  sit  still,  and  to  witness  the  awful  fate  of 
their  companions,  awaited  their  own,  in  unutterable 
horror.    Mr.  Schoonhoven  was  the  last  but  one,  up- 
on the  end  of  the  log,  opposite  to  where  the  massa- 
cre commenced ;   the  work  of  death  had  already 
proceeded  to  him,  and  the  lifted  tomahawk  was 
ready  to  descend,  when  a  chief  gave  a  signal  to  stop 
the  butchery.     Then  approaching  Mr.  Schoonho- 
ven, he  mildly  said,  **  do  you  not  remember  that 
(at  such  a  time)  when  your  young  men  were  danc- 
ing, poor  Indians  came,  and  wanted  to  dance  too; 
your  young  men  said  "  no ! — Indians  shall  not  dance 
with  us;"  but  you  (for  it  seems,  this  chief  had  re- 
cognized his  features  only  in  the  critical  moment) 
you  said,  Indians  shall  dance — now  I  will  shew  you 
I  that  Indians  can  remember  kindness."    This  chance 
I  recollection,  (providential,  we  had  better  call  it) 
saved  the  life  of  Mr.  Schoonhoven,  and  of  the  oth- 
ier  survivor.  *..  '*^ 


1^^ 


^ 


^'■m- 


.    >-  ■■        "■'i':ii 


t. 


m     ■TOj^ 


140     TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  t^VEBEC. 

Strange  mixture  of  generosity,  and  cruelty !  For 
a  trifling  affront,  they  cherished  and  glutted  ven- 
geance, fell  as  that  of  infernals,  without  measure  of 
retribution,  or  discrimination  of  objects;  for  a  favoui' 
equally  trifling,  they  manifested  magnanimity,  ex* 
ceeding  all  correspondence  to  thel)enefit,  and  capa- 
ble of  arresting,  the  stroke  of  death,  even  when  fall- 
ing  with  the  rapidity  of  lightning  !* 


EXCURSION  TO  LAKE  GEORGE, 

'•"      .    .  \  .  ^'' 

This  interesting  region  lay  to  the  left  cf  >ur  pro- 
posed route  to  Lake  Champlain ;  to  visr  would 
demand  nearly  twenty  miles  of  additional  travelling, 
through  very  bad  roads ;  Mr.  W.  was  already  famil- 
iar with  the  scene ;  I  therefore  took  an  extra  con- 
veyance with  which  I  was  furnished  at  Sandy  Hil], 
by  the  civility  of  Mr.  H.  who  did  me  the  favour  to 

*  Considering  the  moral  and  intellectual  light  of  the  American 
savages,  we  may,  however,  well  ask  whether  this  act,  atrocious 
as  it  is,  manifests  more  that  is  abhorrent  to  every  humane — every  J 
just— every  moral — every  christian,  nay  to  every  truly  honouraik 
feeling  than  the  lamentable  practice  of  duelling,  that  dixadful  na- 
tional sin  of  this  country;  that  foul  stain  on  our  character  as  a 
moral  and  religious  people ;  that  sin  which  ascerlains  no  mmh 
courage,  but  demonttrably proves  that  man's  cowardice,  whodarei 
not  encounter  the  opinions  of  fighting  men,  but  prefers  the  vio- 
lation of  the  most  sacred  taws  both  of  Goo  and  man  ;  thai  m, 
which  sends  to  a  premature  grave  those  who  have  defended  Iht 
nation  by  their  valour,  and  honoured  it  by  their  ccii:i:ils,  and  Iheir 
wisdom  ;  that  sin,  for  whose  victims,  thousands  of  American  hearts 
are  now  bleeding,  and  for  vi^icb,  all  good  men  jopurni  and  angels 
weep !  I  "^ 


^«>, 


^•■^ 


n' 


m^ 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HXI#FbRiDAin>  QUEBEC.      141 

accompany  me  on  the  eixcarsion,  (for  there^^'was  no 
public  vehicle)  and  leaving  Miv.W*  to  pursue  his 
journey  to  Fort  Anne,  where  I  agreed  t4*  meet  him, 
I  parted  with  him  four  miles  above  Sandy  Hill  at 
Glenn's  falls. 


GLENN'S  FALLS. 

We  stopped  for  a  few  moments  at  this  celebrated 
place.     It  is  not  possible  that  so  large  a  river  as  the 
Hudson  is,  even  here,  at  more  than  two  hundred 
miles  from  its  mouth,  should  be  precipitated  over 
any  declivity,  however  moderate,  without  a  degree 
of  grandeur.     Evert  the  variouiS  rapids  which  we  ,, 
had  passed  above  Albany,  and  stiH  more,  the  falls  * 
at  Fort  Miller  Bridge,  and  Baker's  falls,  at  Sand}^ 
Hill,  had  powerftilly  arrested  our  attention,  and  pre- 
pared us  for  the  magnificent  spectacle  now  before 
us.    I  regretted  that  I  could  not,  more  at  leisure, 
investigate  the  geology  of  this  pass,  %oth  for  its 
own  sake,  and  for  its  connexion  with  this  fine  piece 
of  scenery. 

The  basis  of  the  country  here,  is  a  black  lime 
stone,  compact,  but  presenting  spots  that  are  crys- 
tallized, and  interspersed,  here  and  there,  with  the 
organized  remains  of  animals,  entombed,  in  ages 
past,  in  this  mausoleum.  The  strata  are  perfectly 
flat,  and  are  "piled  upon  one  anothe^*>#ith  the  ut- 
most regularity,  so  that  a  section,  pJ^pSndiciiIar  to 
the  strata,  prssfents  almost  the  exact  i^ratngement  of 

13 


#* 


|Jr.'b. 


dm 


i'  '% 


# 


142    TOUB  B£TW£EN  HARTFORD  AND  ^C£BE€. 

hewn  stones  in  a  buildings  Such  a  section  has  been 
made  by  the  Hudson,  through  these  calcateous 
strata ;  not  however  all  at  once }  a  nuitiber  of  lay- 
ers are  removed,  either  through  a  part  of  the  width 
of  the  river,  or  through  the  whole  of  it ;  and,  a  few 
feet  further  down  the  stream,  the  layers,  next  below, 
are  removed ;  and  thus,  by  stairs,  or  rather  by  broad 
platforms,  not  however  without  frequent  irregular- 
ties,  and  deep  channels  cut  by  the  water  in  the  di- 
rection of  the  river,  the  way  is  prepared  for  this  fine 
cataract. 

Down  these  platforms,  and  through  these  chan- 
nels, the  Hudson,  when  the  river  is  full,  indignantly 
,  rushes,  in  one  broad  expanse ;  now,  in  several  sub- 
^  ordinate  rivers,  thundering  and  foaming  among  the 
black  rocks,  and  at  last,  dashing  their  conflicting 
waters,  into  one  tumultuous  raging  torrent,  white 
as  the  ridge  of  the  tempest  wave,  shrouded  with 
^pray,  and  adorned  with  the  hues  of  the  rainbow. 
Such  is  the  view  from  the  bridge  immediately  at 
the  foot  of  the  falls,  and  it  is  finely  contrasted  with 
the  solemn  grandeur  of  the  sable  ledges  below, 
which  tower  to  a  great  height  above  the  istream. 

I  do  not  know  the  entire  fall  of  the  river  here, 
but  should  think,  judging  from  the  eye,  that  it  could 
not  be  less  than  fifty  feet,*  including  all  its  leaps, 
down  the  different  platforms  of  rock. 

T  This  estHD«||ybieijng  made  wilbout  measurement,  and  as  I  have 
not  at  hand,  tiny  cmhority  on  the  subject  of  the  height  of  these  fall^ 
I  wi9h  the  e(mj$etun  in  thie  text  to  be  regardecHII  such  merely. 


';.;..>-#;■ 


'k'" 


^r<^|i.  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  143 

Through  an  uninteresting  country,  partly  of  pine 
barren,  and  partly^  of  stony  hills,  I  arrived  at  night- 
fall, at  the  head  of  Lake  George,  and  found  a  coni" 
fortable  inn,  in  the  village  of  Caldwell,  on  the  wes- 
tern shore. 

As  we  approached  Lake  George,  fragments  of 
primitive  rocks,  began  to  appear,  and  I  observed 
numerous  loose  masses  of  granite,  on  the  steep  stony 
hills,  near  the  lake.  I  was  much  struck  with  the 
formidable  difficulties  which  General  Burgoyne  had 
to  encounter  in  transporting  his  stores,  and  his  boats, 
and  part  of  his  artillery,  over  this  rugged  country  : 
at  that  time,  without  doubt,  vastly  more  impractical 
ble  than  at  present. 


PROSPECT  FROM  THE  HEAD  OF  LAKE  GEORGE. 

Sept,  28.— In  the  first  grey  of  the  morning,  I  was 
ia  the  balcony  of  the  Ian,  admiring  the  fine  outline 
of  the  mountains,  by  which  Lake  George  is  envi* 
roned,  and  the  masses  of  pure  snowy  vapour,  which, 
unruffled  by  the  slightest  breeze,  slumbered  on  its 
crystal  bosom.  During  all  the  preceding  days  of 
the  tour,  there  had  not  been  a  clear  morning,  but 
now,  not  a  cloud  spotted  the  expanse  of  the  hea- 
vens, and  the  sky  and  the  lake  conspired  to  exalt 
every  feature,  of  this  unrivalled  landscape. 

The  morning  came  on  with  rapid  progress ;  but 
the  woody  sides  of  the  high  mountains,  that  form 
the  eastern  l]^ier,  were  still  obscured,  by  the  lin- 


'(ni-««MiiJi 


./i^-ii  ■ 


n 


,1' 


Mi\ 


144  TOUR  B£TW££N  HARTFOAD  AND  QUEBEC. 

gering  shadows  of  night,  although,  on  their  tops,*  the 
dawn  was  now  fully  disclosed,  and  their  outline,  by 
contrast  with  their  dark  sides,  was  rendered  heau- 
lifully  distinct;  while,  their  reversed  images,  per- 
fectly reflected  from  the  most  exquisite  of  all  mir- 
rors, presented  mountains  pendent  in  the  deep,  and 
adhering  by  their  bases,  to  those,  which  at  the  same 
moment,  were  emulating  the  heavens. 

A  boat  had  been  engaged,  the  evening  before, 
and  we  now  rowed  out  upon  the  lake,  and  hastened 
to  old  Fort  George,  whose  circular  massy  walls  of 
stone,  still  twenty  feet  high,  and  in  pretty  good 
preservation,  rise  upon  a  hill  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  from  the  southern  shore  of  the  lake.  I  was 
anxious  to  enjoy,  from  this  propitious  spot,  the  ad- 
vancing glories  of  the  morning,  which  by  the  time 
we  had  reached  our  station,  were  glowing  upon  the 
mountain  tops,  with  an  effulgence,  that  could  be 
augmented  by  nothing  but  the  actual  appearance  of 
the  king  of  day. 

Now,  the  opposite  mountains — those  that  form  ^ 
the  western  barrier,  were  strongly  illuminated  down 
their  entire  declivity,  while  the  twin  barrier  of  the 
eastern  shore  (its  ridge  excepted)  was  still  in  deep 
shadow;  the  vapour  on  the  lake,  which  was  just  suf- 
ficient to  form  the  softened  blending  of  light  and 
shade,  while  it  veiled  the  lake  only  in  spots,  and 
left  its  outline  and  most  of  its  surface  perfectly  dis- 


-f^.' 


i)!fl^»l4| 


ps,*  the 
ne,  by 
1  beau- 
s,  per- 
il mir* 
sp,  and 
le  same 


before, 
lastened 
walls  of  • 
ty  good 
rter  of  a 
,     I  was 
L  the  ad- 
he  time 
iipon  the 
lould  be 
irance  of 


lat  forrai 
ted  down 
of  the 
deep 
suf- 


m 


just 
ight  and 
)Ots,  and 
jctly  iX^^- 


<m- 


\M::iH':>. 


<ijMV3i  was  nin;  fi'My  dtf^ciogijcl,  aud  t|icif  uuiiinc,  ;  ^ 

fertiy  ^eO'-;  tcv!   ir.Mn  tlirv  itj{>*it.si^qiii»Jt(^Lof  ft^  ♦•(ir'T, 
adhering  hyxhcn  bases,  i'*  ;!i«,/»e,  wbicb  at  lbe/S<i 

.      A  bout.  j{ft,(J    been   t.-n/'"  '  '   !.    li;-.'  ^veiling- (iijrtn'e^  f< 
and  wo  row  fowcd  out  u])on'th.e  jfike,  anii  h^|li€:S<jd 
l«i  o'ci  Fort  <'5v.or£(.',  wliose  dtcw^'H'  mnssy  WalV<  </  1 

,.i?tone,  ^ull  uverit^'  lV;ei    hi^di,  «iii<i"iQ  pte^^^y  jss^r^l 
irr^Msei'vatipii,  rise  upon  a  Jiill  about  a  qn.artor  or  n 
n)i]t*;'|roHa  tlie  southern  sltore  of  tl^e  j^ie^  ,  J  vvt 
a»sijQii:5  to  enjoy,  from  this  propitious^ s|fot,ttK;  <f,i\* 
vnuriiag'^oric's  of  tiie.uioruing,  which  by  theiiiPDO  | 
v/c  hiidlreached  our  station,  were  glowing  upon  ♦1)6 
;i!</uutain   tops,  with  Jiii.  eiFulgence,  that  cou):<i  h- 
»ii2:,iueuted  by^nothing  but  {he  actual  ?,ippearatici'  os 
ibe  ]^J|j|'  '^^  day-  ,    . .  •  ""\ 

^||mv,  the  opposite  mount9ins-~-tho.^e  that  hm 
l]N?  westeru  barrivtr,  wert?  stroualy  iihirniuatcd  <lc»v." 

4^0%-  x?iitire  dech\'ity,  vvbile  tbt:  i*;vin  barrier  of  li'' 
**c$«i;iern  ?^hore  fits  ridge  exfi<?pUfti)  ivas  still  ii\  dccj 
sbadovt;  the  Viipour  on  the  k-k^,  xH'hldi  was  jilig^»'''-| 
flcient  to  tbi  id  the  s>olti  upd   blieiiditug  of  bs;h^;jaiifll 
.hfide,  while  it  veiled  she  lake  i^lji^;  irii  spot«,  ttmi  | 
Uft  ilf  oi'tiino  un<]  rnos!  of  its  i-!U'fnci3  peYfectlv  »;is- 


ii 


; .  M  ■ 


w . ..  -'  ■■■* 


tne 


I*- 


•c 


tivalict' 


01 


111,!',  )(>m 

Itcd 


L■.^.'^ 


ler  ot  '■■ 

'liusl'-'-' ' 


l(>C^|V    0 


.  JP^ 


'■      ••#,■ 


**'•■*-' 


** 


»:.    *i 


*^v 


?%' 


':/*j* 


3^ 


"*SSf 


^^*<^rii^. 


TOUR  BETWEEN  BAHTFORD  AND  ((UEBBC.      149 

clivity,  by  which  we  ascend  from  the  lake,  to  the 
old  fort,  upon  the  walls  of  which  we  are  supposed 
to  stand,  and  they,  of  course,  are  not  in  view.  On 
the  very  shore,  we  observe  one  of  the  old  barracks, 
formerly  belonging  to  the  fort,  now  exhibiting  a 
tavern  sign,  and,  till  within  a  few  y^ars,  constituting 
the  only  place  of  accommodation  tc  those  who  vis- 
ited Lake  George.  At  this  place,  although  princi- 
pally covered  by  the  water,  are  the  ruins  of  the  old 
military  quay  or  pier,  formerly  extending  a  good 
way  into  the  lake,  and  affording  important  facilities 
to  the  numerous  expeditions,  that  have  sailed  upon 
Lake  George. 


«C' 


BEMABKS  ON  LAKE  GEORGE  AND  ITS  ENVIRONS.     ^ 

Every  one  has  heard  of  the  transparency  <)f  the 
waters  of  Lake  George.  This  transparency  is,  in- 
deed, very  remarkable,  and  the  same,  (as  we  might 
indeed  well  suppose  it  would  be,)  is  the  fact  with 
all  the  streams  that  pour  into  ft.  After  the  day 
light  became  strong,  we  could  see  the  bottom  per- 
fectly, in  most  places  where  we  rowed,  and  it  is 
said,  that  in  fishing,  even  in  twenty  or  tweinty-five 
feet  of  water,  the  angler  may  select  his  fish,  by ; 
bringing  the  hook  near  the  mouth  of  the  one  which 
he  prefers.  * 

Bass  and  trout  are  among  the  most  celebrated 

fish  of  the  lake  ?  the  latter  were  now  in  season,  and 

l|?thing  of  the  kind  can  be  finer ;  this  beautiful  fish, 


w. 


m: 


iifi^.  ,?--<>■.;  '-.i,,.,:-  »1 


''*^^*Jt  "^i  -*  J***"*  " 


"A^ 


♦ 


1P  150     TOUR  BETWEEN  HABTFORO  il^]>  QUEBEC. 


elegantly  decorated,  aud  gracefully  formed,  shy  of 
observation,  rapid  in  its  movements,  and  delighting, 
above  all,  in  the  perfect  purity  of  its  element,  finds 
in  Lake  George,  a  residence,  most  happily  adapted 
to  its  nature.  Here  it  attains  a  very  uncommon  size, 
and  exhibits  its  most  perfect  beauty  and  symmctr}. 
The  delicate  carnation  of  its  flesh,  is  here  aldo  most 
remarkable,  and  its  flavour  exquisite. 

If  the  lovers  of  the  sublime  and  beautiful,  visit 
Lake  George,  for  its  scenery,  and  the  patriotic,  to 
behold  the  places  where  their  fathers  stemmed  the 
tide  of  savage  invasion  ;  the  epicure  also,  will  come, 
not  to  cherish  the  tender  and  the  heroic,  nor  to  ad* 
mire  the  picturesque  and  the  grand,  but  to  enjoy 
the  native  luxuries  of  the  place. 

The  lake  is  about  a  mile  wide  near  its  head,  and 
is  sometimes  wider,  sometimes  narrower  than  this, 
but  rarely  exceeding  two  miles,  through  its  length 
of  thirty-six  miles.  It  is  said  to  contain  as  many 
islands,  as  there  are  days  in  the  year. 

1  had  scarcely  any  opportunities  of  observing  the 
mineralogy  and  geology  of  this  region. 

The  beautiful  crystals  of  quartz,  which  all  stran- 
gers obtain  at  Lake  George,  are  got  on  the  islands  in 
the  lake  ;  one  about  four  miles  from  its  head,  (and 
called,  of  course,  the  diamond  island,)  has  been 
principally  famous  for  aflfording  them  ;  there  is  a 
solitary  miserable  cottage  upon  this  island,  from 
which  we  saw  the  smoke  ascending ; — a  woman, 
who  lives  in  it,  is  facetiously  called  "  the  lady  of  the 


'4|r*,t  ,•;>.' r:'\<' 


■0 


TOUm  BETWiriBM  HARTrORD  AND  QUEBEC.     151 

lake,"  but,  probably  no  Malcolm  Greme,  and  Rbod- 
erio  Dhu  will  ever  contend  on  her  account. 

Crystals  are  now  obtained  from  other  islands,  I 
believe,  more  than  from  this,  and  they  are  said  no 
longer  to  find  the  single  loose  crystals  in  abundance 
on  the  shores,  but  break  up  the  rocks  foi:  this  pur- 
pose. Poor  people  occupy  th<3mselves  m  procur- 
ing crystals,  which  they  deposit  at  the  public  house, 
for  sale. 

The  crystals  of  Lake  George,  are  hardly  '  urpass- 
ed  by^any  in  the  world,  for  transparency,  aaci  for  per- 
fection of  form  ;  they  are,  as  usu  J,  the  six-sided 
I  prism,  and  frequently  terminated  at  both  ends  by 
3ix-8ided  pyramids.  These  last  must,  of  course,  be 
found  loose,  or,  at  least,  not  adhering  to  any  rock  ; 
Ithose  which  are  broken  off,  have  necessarily  only 
lone  pyramid.*  I  procured  specimens  of  the  rocky 
Inatrix,  in  which  the  crystals  are  formed;  it- is  of 
Lartzoze  nature,  and  contains  cavities  finely  stud- 
pd  with  crystals. 
The  crystals  of  Lake  (eorge  firequently  contain 
dar^  coloured   foreign   substance,  enclosed  all 

|iround,  or  partially  so  r,  its  nature,  I  believe,  has  not 

been  ascertained  ;  it  may  be  manganese,  titanium, 

(ir  iron. 
I  had  110  opportunity  to  see  the  rocks,  except 

tiose  on  which  Fort  George  stand,  and  which  form 

'I  have  R  crystal  from  Lake  George,  bbtained  by  a  soldier^  and 

esented  to  the  late  President  Dwight,  which  is  between  five  and 

inches  long»  by  three  broad,  and  is  perfectly  limpid,  and  well 

rstalized. 


«■>, 


,'■  !i 


■m 


r 


.  lit 


F^-,Wi,y'H.:.r.«>,,«.jjjpifqWi^*lf'l»l(|Wiai\:.iW*u>. 


li- 


:^'^ 


ll»2    TOtUIt  BETirSEN  9A1IYF0RD  AM»#VJ|f  JKC 

tbe^barrier  oMe^  lake^  a$  Us  head ;  ihe^  |)np  a  dove- 
cddiire^y  compact  lime-stdne,  of  a  ¥#t^  olfNie  grain, 
md  smooth  concboidal  fraeturist ;  they  yieiry  much 
tesetAhle  thQ  m^thlfi  of  Middiel^i^,  (Vermont,) 
ancK  I  supposcy  belong  to- ^e,«trai}utiQB  class.  I 
could  get  no  view  of  the  rOcHs^of  the  two  lateral 
barriers,  but^  from  what  I  alilerwarclii  saw»  I  con- 
elude  they  are  {^rimitive^  and  probably  (at  least  the 
eastern  one,)  gneiss.* 

The  Tulgar,  about,  the  Jake,  say,  ^1  in  some 
places,  it  has  no  bottom;  by  which,  doubtless, 
ought  to  be  understood,  that  it  is:  In  some  pu[ces  so 
deep  as  not  to  be  fathomed  by  their  U^esfil  know 
of  no  attempts  to  ascertain  its  greater  49|>tb* 

The  mountains  are  extensively,  or  rather  almost  j 
universally  in  dense  forest ;  rattle  snakes  and  deer 
abound  upon  them,  and  hunting  is  still  pursued  here: 
with  success. 

I  was  credibly  informed,ihat,  a  few  yeaps  since,] 
there  was  a  man  in  this  vicinity,  who  had  the  sin- 
gular power,  and  the  still  stranger  temerity,  to  catch  j 
Zmn^rakie  snakes  ivith  his  naked  ha^ds^  without 
wounding  the  snakes,  or  beii^g  woundbd  by  then);| 
he  used  to  accumulate  nunibers  of  ^m  intbi^l 
manner,  for  curiosity,  or  for  sale,  and,  for  a 


♦Dr.  Meade  (Eiperimental  Enquiry,  8ic.  p.  6,)  remarks,  Ihrfj 
the  easterh  side  of  Lake  George*  l«  coin p»»»«a  of^oillfbn  fock«;| 
the  Aeinioftbra  lake  appear*,  ifidbedi  to  be  transition  nme-8foiie,J 
and  poaiibiy  i7«  M  may  bft  tlfcie  same ;  aithoagb  the  quartz  fr< 
the  islapdi,  (wbicb  I  ^aye  not  visited,)  gives  »  diflTerent  indie* 
tiop ;  itah  barrUr*  ate,  howjiveri  ••ndoubtedli^  primlttre.^ 


-m, 


^wt 


An 


•JOUR  BETWEEN   HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.      153 

time,  persisted,  uninjured,  in  this  audacious  ^ac- 
tice ;  but,  at  last,  the  awful  fate,  which  allJ^it  him- 
self, had  expected,  overtook  him  ;  be  Was  bitten, 
and  died.  Surely  no  motive,  except  one  spring- 
ing from  the  highest  moral  duty,  could  have  justifi- 
ed such  an  exposure. 

In  some  places,  the  mountains,  contiguous  to  the 
shores,  are  rocky  and  precipitous.  Tradition  re- 
lates, that  a  white  man,  closely  pursued,  in  the  win- 
ter season,  by  two  Indians,  contrived  to  reach  the 
ice,  ^  the  surface  of  the  lake,  by  letting  himself 
down  one  of  these  precipices,  and,  before  the  In- 
dians could  follow,  he  was  on  his  skaits,  and  dart- 
ing, "  swift  as  the  winds  along,"  was  soon  out  of 
their  reach.  • 

I  am  not  informed  that  the  height  of  the  moun- 
tains, about  liake  George,  has  ever  been  measured  ; 
they  appeared  to  my  eye,  generally,  to  exceed  one 
thousand  feet,  and  probably  the  highest  may  be  fif- 
teen hundred,  or  more. 

The  wreck  of  a  steam-boat,  recently  burnt  to  the 
waters  edge,  lay  near  the  tavern  :  it  gave  great  fa- 
cility in  going  up  this  beautiful  lake  to  Ticondero- 
ga;  parties  and  individuals,  were  much  in  the  habit 
of  making  this  tour ;  and,  were  there  a  good  road, 
instead  of  a  very  bad  one,  from  Glenn's  falls  to 
Lake  George,  and  were  the  steam-boat  re-establish- 
ed, it  must  become  as  great  a  resort,  as  the  lakes  of 
Westmoreland  and  Cumberland,  or  as  Lock  Ka- 
jtrin,  Qow  immortalized  by  the  muse  of  Scott. 

14 


« 


f1 


154  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

The  village  of  Caldwell,  built  entirely  since  the 
American  war,  contains  five  or  six  hundred  inhabit- 
iints,  with  neat  buildings,  public  and  private,  and  a 
very  large  commodious  public-house,  well  provided 
and  attended,  so  that  strangers,  visiting  the  lake,  can 
have  every  desired  accommodation.  This  village,  I 
am  informed,  has  arisen  principally  from  the  exer- 
tions of  one  enterprising  individual,  from  whom  it  de- 
rives its  name,  as  well  as  its  existence.  He  has  lived 
to  see  his  labours  crowned  with  success,  and  a  pretty 
village  now  smiles  at  the  foot  of  the  western  l^U'ier 
of  Lake  George,  on  ground  where  the  iron  ramparts 
of  war  are  still  visible ;  for,  on  this  very  ground, 
the  Marquis  Montcalm's  army  was  entrenched,  at 
the  siege  of  Forf,  William  Henry,  in  1757. 


% 


BATTLES  OF  LAKE  GEORGE. 

In  the  wairs  of  this  country.  Lake  George  has 
long  been  conspicuous.  Its  head  waters  formed  the 
shortest,  and  most  convenient  connexion,  betweea 
Canada,  and  the  Hudson,  und  hence  thp  establish- 
jnent  of  Fort  William  Henry,  in  1755,  and,  in  more 
recent  times,  of  Fort  George,  in  its  immediate  vi- 
cinity. 

This  most  beautiful  and  peaceful  lake,  environed 
by  mountains,  and  seeming  to  claim  an  exemption 
from  the  troubles  of  an  agitated  world,  has  often 
bristled  with  the  proud  array  of  war,  )ias  wafted  its 
most  formidable' preparation»  on  its  bosom,  and  ha$ 


■%»■■ 


TOUR    BETWEEN   HARTFORD   AND    CtUEBEC.    155 

repeatedly  witnessed  both  the  splepdors  nnd  the 
havoc  of  battle. 

Large  annies  have  been,  more  than  once,  embark- 
ed on  Lake  George,  proceeding  down  it,  on  their 
way  to  attack  Ticonderoga  and  Crown  Point ;  this 
was  the  fact  with  the  army  of  Abercrombie,  con- 
sisting of  nearly  sixteen  thousand  men,  including 
nine  thousand  troops  from  the  colonies,  and  a  very 
formidable  train  of  artillery,  which,  on  the  fifth  of 
July,  1758,  embarked  at  the  south  end  of  Lake 
George,  on  board  of  one  hundred  twenty-five  whale 
boats,  and  nine  hundred  batteaux. 

What  an  armament  for  that  period  of  this  coun- 
try !  What  a  spectacle,  on  such  a  narrow  quiet  lake ! 
It  is  said  by  an  eye  witness,  to  have  been  a  most 
imposing  sight.  Little  did  this  proud  army  imagine, 
that  within  two  days,  they  would  sustain,  before  Ti- 
conderoga, a  most  disastrous  defeat,  whh  the  loss 
of  nearly  two  thousand  men,  and  of  lord  Howe,* 
one  of  their  most  beloved  and  promising  leaders, 
and  that  they  would  so  soon  return  up  the  lake,  in 
discomfiture  and  disgrace.  In  July,  of  the  next 
summer,  (1759,)  Lake  George  was  again  covered 
with  an  arraament,  little  inferior  in  numbers,  to  that 
•f  General  Abercrombie,  but  vastly  superior  in  suc- 
cess ;  for  Ticonderoga  and  Crown  Point,  were 
abandoned  at  its  approach,  and  General  Amherst^ 

*  Father  of  the  Howe)  who  figured  so  much  during  the  revoTu^ 
tionary  war. 


w 


w^. 


'  I  Ir 


''  'v» 


•<•. 


^. 


%• 


156  TOUR  BETWBEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC, 

its  fortunate  leader,  obtained  an  almost   bloodless 
rictory.*  ' 

^m  pQj^.f  WILLIAM  HENRY. 

The  remains  of  this  old  f^t  are  still  visible  ;  they 
are  on  the  verge  of  the  lake,  at  its  head  ;  the  walls, 
the  gate,  and  the  out-works,  can  still  be  complete- 
ly traced  ;  the  ditches  have,  even  now,  considera- 
ble depth,  and  the  well  that  supplied  the  garrison, 
is  there,  and  affords  water  to  this  day  ;  near,  and 
in  this  fort,  much  blood  has  been  shed. 

In  August,  1755,  General,  afterwards  Sir  Wil- 
liam Johnson,  lay  at  the  head  of  Lake  George,  with 
an  army,  about  to  proceed  to  the  attack  of  Crown 
Point ;  they  were  troops  raised  by  the  northern 
colonies.  . 

Baron  Dieskau,  who  commanded  the  French 
forces  in  Canada,  leaving  Ticonderoga,  came  down 
Lake  Champlain,  through  south  bay,  and  was  pro- 
ceeding to  the  attack  of  Fort  Edward,  which  con- 
tained not  five  hundred  men,  and  had  been  reported 
to  Dieskau,  to  be  without  cannon.  To  the  succour 
of  this  fort.  General  Johnson  detached  one  thousand 
men,  and  two  hundred  Indians,  under  Colonel  Wil- 
liams of  Deerfield. 

'  *Cnfonel  Roger  Townshend  was  killed  by  a  cannon  shot,  while 
recunnoitering,  on  almost  the  same  spot,  where  lord  Howe  was 
killed,  the  year  before  ;  he  is  said  to  have  resembled  him  much, 
« in  birth,  age,  qualifications,  inj^lyi^araeter." 


* 


#■• 


m 


w 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.   157 

Dieskau's  army,  having  in  the  mean  time,  learn- 
ed, that  there  were  cannon  at  Fort  Edward,  and 
being  assured  that  General  Johnson's  camp  was 
without  artillery  or  entrenchments,  importuned  their 
Gener??!  to  change  his  purpose  of  attacking  Fort 
Edward,  and  to  lead  them  northward,  to  assail 
Johnson's  camp.  Dieskau  yielded  to.  their  wishes, 
and  turned  his  course  accordingly.  The  moun- 
tains, which  form  the  barriers  of  Lake  George,  con- 
tinue to  the  south,  after  they  leave  the  lake,  form- 
ing a  rugged,  narrow  defile,  of  several  miles  in 
length,  most  of  which  was  then,  and  still  is,  filled 
with  forest  trees. 

In  this  defile,  about  four  miles  from  General  John- 
son's camp,  Colonel  Williams'  party,  which  left  the^ 
camp,  between  eight  and  nine  o'clock  in  the  mor- 
ning, of  September  6,  1755,  very  unexpectedly  fell 
in  with  the  army  of  Baron  Dieskau ;  the  two  armies 
met  in  the  road,  front  to  front;  the  Indians  of 
Dieskau's  army  were  in  ambuscade,  upon  both  de- 
clivities of  the  mountain,  and  thus  it  was  a  complete 
surprise,  for  Colonel  Williams  had  unhap])lly  neg- 
lected to  place  any  scouts  upon  his  vpings.  A  bloody 
battle  ensued,  a  deadly  fire  was  poured  in  upon  both 
flanks.— Colonel  Williams*  endeavouring  to  lead 

*  I  am  informed  by  General  Hoyt,  of  DecrfieM,  that  Colonel 
WHIiams' remains,  (or  sucli  as  are  believed  to  be  his,)  have  rc-cftBt' 
ly  been  found,  With  the  siculi  perforated  by  a  ball. 

If  I  mistalte  not,  the  ob<;er"<<(ion  was  made  by,  or  under  tb« 
immediate  direction  of  Gen^roi  Hoyt,  who  has  taken  much  pain», 
by  accurate  tind  minute  exaftimstions,  conducted  by  himself  on 

14* 


*■ 


i 


■*• 


l*. 


158  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

his  men  against  the  unseen  enemy,  was  instantly 
shot  through  the  head,  and  he,  and  hundreds  of  his 
party,  including  old  Hendrick,  the  chief  of  the  Mo- 
hawks, and  forty  Indians  were  slain.  The  remain- 
der of  the  party,  under  the  command  of  Colonel 
Whiting,  retreated  into  the  camp.  They  came  run- 
ning in,  in  the  utmost  confusion  and  consternation, 
a^d  perhaps  owed  their  safety,  in  a  great  measure, 
to  another  party,  which,  when  the  firing  was  heard, 
and  perceived  to  be  growing  louder  and  nearer,  was 
sent  out  to  succour  them. 

Judge  Kent  informed  me,  that  old  Mr.  Van  Skoik, 
of  Kinderhook,  has  recently  related  to  him  thr.t,  arri- 
ving the  next  day,  on  the  ground  where  the  battle  was 
ibught,  he  saw  three  hundred  men,  dead  on  the  spot, 
and  Baron  Dieskau  lying,  mortally  wounded,  in  the 
English  camp,  on  the  bed  of  General  Johnson. 
This  wound  was  received  in  a  second,  and  still 
greater  battle,  fought  the  same  day.  Dieskau,  after 
the  retreat  of  Williams'  party,  marching  on  with 
spirit,  attacked  General  Johnson's  entrenched  camp, 

the  9pot,  to  investigate  the  precise  facts,  as  to  the  places  and  cir- 
eumstances  of  some  of  our  most  interesting  military  events.— 
Surely,  it  is  b'gh  time  that  similar  efforts  were  made  in  all  similar 
places ;  after  the  present  generation  is  gone,  original  witnesses 
nan  no  longer  be  found  ;  and  there  are  few  immediate  incentives 
to  patriotism,  that  are  more  effectiral,  than  such  exact  lociti  histo- 
ties,  of  great  military  events,  and  particularly,  of  the  catastrophes 
of  distinguished  men,  who  have  died  for  their  country.  I  trust 
General  Hoyt  will  pardon  me  for  this  public  mention  of  Jbim,  and 
for  the  expression  of  my  wish  that  his  interesting  researches  mi 
■ot  be  withheld  from  the  publiis^»^une,  1820. 


■* 


TOUB  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC   159 

and  although  he  fought  with  long  and  persevering 
valour,  his  army,  in  a  great  measure  deserted  by  the 
Canadians  and  Indians,  was  repulsed  with  immense 
slaughter.  Dieskau,  wounded  in  the  leg,  and  un- 
able to  follow  his  retreating  army,  was  found  leaning 
against  a  tree ;  he  began  to  feci  for  his  watch,  in 
order  to  dehver  it  up  to  the  soldier,  who  was  ap- 
proaching him ;  but  the  soldier  supposing  him  to  be 
searching  for  a  pistol,  unhappily  fired  a  charge  into 
his  hips  which  caused  his  death. 

Nor  did  this  battle  terminate  the  fighting  of  this 
bloody  day.  The  remains  of  Dieskau's  army  re- 
treated, about  four  miles,  to  the  ground  where  Colo- 
nel Williams  had  been  defeated  in  the  morning,  And 
the  rear  of  the  army  were  there  sitting  upon  the 
ground,  had  opened  their  knapsacks,  and  were  re- 
freshing themselves,  when  Captain  McGinnies,  who 
with  two  hunc^fed  men,  had  been  dispatched  from  Fort 
Edward,  to  succour  the  main  body,  came  up  with 
this  portion  of  the  French  army,  thus  sitting  in  se- 
curity, and  attacked  and  totally  defeated  them,  al- 
though he  was  himself  mortally  wounded.  Thus 
were  three  battles  fought  in  one  day,*  and  almost 
upon  the  saiiil  ground.  This  ground  I  went  over. 
Remains  of  the  encampment  are  still  to  be  found, 
in  the  woods.  The  neighbouring  mountain,  in 
which  the  French  so  suddenly  made  their  appear- 
ance, is,  to  this  day,  called  French  Mountain,  and 

*  Smoitet  nnd  sonfe  other  writers  place  this  last  battlt  on  tb^ 
next  day.     T! 


yM 


,*.  .  >v 


160  TOUR  BETWEEN  HA&TFORD  AND  C^JEBEC. 

this  name,  with  the  tradition  of  the  fact,  will  be  sent 
down  to  ti>e  latest  posterity.  I  was  shewn  a  rock 
by  the  road  at  which  a  considerable  slaughter  took 
place. 

THE  BLOODY  POND. 

^  Just  by  the  present  road,  and  in  the  midst  of  these 
Jbattle  grounds,  is  a  circular  pond,  shaped  exactly 
IJ^Le  a  bowl ;  it  may  be  two  hundred  feet  in  diame- 
ter, and  was,  when  I  saw  it,  fvll  of  water,  and  cov- 

.  ered  with  the  pond  lilly,  Alas  !  this  pond,  now  so 
peaceful,  was  the  common  sepulchre  of  the  brave ; 
the  dead  bodies  of  most  of  those  who  were  slain 
on  this  eventful  day,  were  thrown,  in  undistin- 
guished confusion  into  this  pond  ;  from  that  time 
to  the  present;  it  has  been  called  the  bloody  pond^ 
and  there  is  not  a  child  in  this  region,  but  will  point 
you  to  the  French  mountain,  and  4o  the  bloody 
pond. — ^I  stood  with  dread,  upon  its  brink,  bd 
threvv^  8'  it^ne  into  its  unconscious  waters.  After 
these  events,  a  regular  fort  was  constructed  at  the 
head  of  the  lake  and  called  Fort  William  Henry. 


m€ 


IP 

m 


MASSACRE  OF  FORT  WILLIAM  HENRY. 

The  three  battles  of  September  .6th,  were  not 

the  end  of  the  tragedies  of  Lake  George.    The 

'Marquis     de    Montcalm     after     three    ineffectual 

attempts  upon  Fort  William  Henry,  mai|^  gr^t 

efforts  to  besiege  it  in  form,  and  in  August,  1757, 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.   161 


having  landed  ten  thousand  men  near  the  fort,  sum- 
moned it  to  surrender.  The  place  of  his  landing 
was  shewn  me,  a  little  north  of  the  puh!Ic  house  ; 
the  remains  of  his  batteries  and  other  works  are 
still  visible  ;  and  the  graves  and  bones  of  the  slain 
are  occasionally  discovered. 

He  had  a  powerful  train  of  artillery,  and  although 
the  fort  and  works  were  garrisoned  by  three  thouo- 
sand  men,  and  were  most  gallantly  defended  by  the 
commander.  Colonel  Monroe,it  was  obliged  to  capit- 
ulate ;  but  the  most  honourable  terms,  were  granted 
to  Colonel  Monroe,  in  consideration  of  his  great  gal- 
lantry. The  bursting  of  the  great  guns,  the  want  of 
ammunition,  and  above  all,  the  failure  of  General 
Webb  to  succour  the  fort,  although  he  ^y  idle  at 
Fort  Edward  with  four  thousand  men,  were  thi, 
canses  of  this  catastrophe. 

The  capitulation  was,  however,  mos^  shamefully 
broken ;  the  Indians  attached  to  MontcaIm*s  army, 
while  the  troops  were  marching  out  of  tira  gat#of 
the  fort,  dragged  the  men  from  the  ranks^  particu^ 
larly  the  Indians  in  the  English  service,  and  butch- 
I  ered  them  in  cold  blood — ^ihey  plundered  all  with- 
out distinction,  and  murdered  women  and  little 
children,  with  circumstances  of  the  most  aggravated 
barbarity.*    T]^||^assacn&  continued  all  along  the 

Men  and  women  had  their  throats  cat|  their  bodies  ripped 
Dpen,  aod  their  bowels,  with  insalt,  Ibroirn  in  their  faces.— lo' 
^anliand  j!0il(iren  were^ barbarously  talieri^by  the  heels,  andlheir 
brains  dashed  o^l  against  stones  and  trees.  The  Indians  parsued 
jlhe  English  nearly  half  the  way  to  F^rt  Edward,  where  the 
greatest  number  of  Vllein  arriyed  in  a  most  forlorn  conditloa. 


% 


*.#*. 


'xM 


.M 


iff- 


4miisnti,' 


s 


162  TOUR  BKTWCBN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

road,  through  the  defile  of  the  mountains,  and  for 
many  miles,  the  miserable  prisoners,  especially 
those  in  the  rear,  were  tomahawked  and  hewn 
clown  in  cold  blood  ;  it  might  well  be  called  the 
bloody  defile,  for  it  was  the  same  ground  that  was 
the  scene  of  the  battles,  only  two  years  before,  in 
1 755.  It  is  said  that  efforts  were  made  by  the  French 
to  restrain  the  barbarians,  but  they  were  not  restraJD- 
•d,  and  the  miserable  remnant  of  the  garrison  with 
difficulty  reached  Fort  Edward  pursued  by  the  In- 
dians,  although  escorted  by  a  body  of  French  trotps. 
I  passed  over  the  whole  of  the  ground,  upon  which 
this  tragedy  was  acted,  and  the  oldest  men  of  the 
country  still  remember  this  deed  of  guilt  and  infamy, 

Fort  William  Henry  was  levelled  by  Montcalm, 
and  has  never  been  rebuilt.  Fort  George  m$ 
built  as  a  substitute  for  it,  on  a  more  commanding 
scite,  and  although  often  mentioned  in  the  history 
of  subsequent  wars,  was  not  I  believe  the  scene  of  | 
any  very  memorable  event. 

It  was  the  depot  for  the  stores  of  the  army  q(| 
General  Burgoyne,  till  that  commander  relinquish- 
ed his  connexion  with  the  lakes,  and  endeavoured  I 
to  push  his  fortunes  without  depending  upon  his  | 
magazines  in  the  rear. 

Having  occupiei^  a  very  busy  morning  in  visjtifld 
the  memorable  placeis  at  the  head  of  Lake  Georgey 
and  having  procured  specimens  of  the  mineral  prfi 
ductions  of  this  region,  I  proce|^d  on  my  jouroeyj 
to  Fort  Anne.    Mr.  H-— — ,  my  Obliging  compan- 


\M  € 


\- 


TOUE  BETWEEN  HARTFOBD  AKD  QUEBEC.   163 


ion,  attended  me,  and  we  were  necessitated  to  re-  < 
turn  some  miles  through  the  gorge  of  the  moun- 
tains, and  again  to  view  the  bloody  pond,  the  French 
mountain,  and  the  bloody  defile.  Rarely,  I  pre- 
sume, have  such  scenes  of  horror  been  exhibited  so 
often,  within  so  narrow  a  space.  We  may  confi- 
dently trust,  that  they  will  never  be  repeated  ;  that 
lake  George,  traversed  no  longer  by  armies,  its 
forests  and  its  mountains  undisturbed  hyt0iM  roar 
of  cannon,  and  its  waters  polluted  no  mbre  by 
blood ;  but  visited  in  peace,  by  the  lovers  of  the 
sublime  and  beautiful,  and  arrayed  in  its  own  gran- 
^  deur  and  loveliness,  will  hereafter  exhibit  the  tra- 
gical history  of  other  times,  only  to  impart  a  pen- 
sive tenderness  and  a  moral  dignity  to  the  charm- 
ing scenes  with  which  the  story  of  these  events  is 
I  associated. 

As  we  emerged  from  the  defile,  and  turned  W 
I  the  left,  around  the  base  of  the  mountains  that  form 
the  eastern  barrier  of  Lake  George,  we  had  iHany 
lopportunities  of  admiring  the  grandeur  of  thin  bar- 
Irier,  and  of  contemplating  all  that  wildness  of  land- 
[scape,  which,  it  may  be  presumed,  has  undergone 
kittle  change,  since  it  was  traversed  by  the  prowling 
[savage*  intent  on  the  chase,  or  on  his  more  beloved 
employment,  the  destruction  of  his  fellow  creatures, 
[n  this  dreadful  occupation  he  has,  however,  been 
lore  than  rivalled  byl)the  polished  nations  of  Amer- 
ica and  of  Europe  ji  who,  if  they  do  not  pursue  war 
i^ith  the  atrocity  ofuthe  savage,  .seem  to  have  fol- 


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164     TOVR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AMD  ^VEBBC. 


flowed  it  with  all  his  eagerness,  and  have  often  iden- 
tified themselves  with  his  most  horrid  cruelties,  by 
calling  him  in  as  an  ally  and  a  friend,  and  marching 
by  his  side  to  slaughter  those  who  are  connected  by 
the  common,  (it  ought  to  be  by  the  sacred)  tie  of 
Christianity. 

In  the  progress  of  our  ride,  we  emerged  from 
mountain  scenery,  and  saw  many  good  farms,  and 
much  arable  and  pasture  land.  The  country  be* 
came  much  less  rugged,  although  the  roads  were 
little  improved  by  art ;  for  they  were  common  and 
often  obscure  cross  roads. 

We  met  with  no  adventure,  and  the  failure  of 
one  of  our  waggon  wheels,  which  obliged  us  to 
walk,  and  to  sustain  the  machine  for  the  last  two 
miles,  did  not  prevent  our  arriving  at  the  appointed 
bolir  of  dinner  at  old  Fort  Anne,  which  Mr.  Wads- 
worth  bad  already  reached  before  me. 

Fort  Anne  was  another  post  established  in  the 
French  wars.  It  stood  about  midway  between  Fort 
Edward  and  the  most  southern  point  of  Lake 
Champlain,  and  at  the  head  of  batteaux  navigation 
on  Wood  Creek.  I  did  not  go  to  its  scite,  the  ruins 
of  which,  I  am  told,  are  almost  obliterated ;  its 
well,  however,  is  still  to  be  seen.  There  is  a  con- 
siderable village  here,  which  bears  the  name  oftlif 
Fort. 


*■ 


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rOVR  BrrWEEN  UARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.      165 


BATTLE  NEAR  FORT  ANNE. 


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Leaving  Fort  Anne  we  crossed  Wood  Creek, 
and  our  journey  to  Whitehall  was  almost  constantly 
along  its  banks,  or  very  near  them. 

At  a-  narrow  pass  between  some  high  rocks  and 
ihe  river,  we  were  shewn  the  place  where,  on  the 
8th  of  July,  1777,  the  9th  British  regiment,  be- 
longing to  General  Burgoyne's  army,  sustained  a 
heavy  loss,  by  a  conflict  with  the  Americans  under 
Colonel  Long. 

After  the  surrender  of  Ticonderoga,  General  Bur- 
goyne  endeavoured  to  keop  up  the  alarm,  by  spread- 
ing his  parties  over  the  country.  With  4his  view, 
Colonel  Hill,  at  the  head  of  the  9th  regiment,  was 
dispatched  after  Colonel  Long,  who,  with  four  or 
tive  hundred  men,  principally  the  invalids  and  coq- 
valescents  of  the  army,  had  taken  post  at  Fort  Anfle,. 
and  was  directed  by  General  Schuyler  to  defend  it 
Colonel  Long,  with  his  party,  did  not  wait  an  at- 
lack  from  the  enemy,  but  boldly  advanced  to  meet 
ihena.  "At  half  past  ten  in  the  morning,  (says  Ma- 
jor Forbes,*  of  the  British  regiment,)  they  attacked 
us  in  front,  with  a  heavy  and  well  directed  fire  ;  a 
large  body  of  them  passed  .the  creek  on  the  left, 
and  fired  from  a  thick  wood  across  the  creek  on 
the  left  flank  of  the  regiment :  they  then  began  to 
recross  the  creek  and  attack  us  in  the  tear ;  we  then 


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ibund  it  necessary  to  change  our  ground,  to  prevent 
the  regiment's  being  surrounded  ;  we  took  post  on 
the  top  of  a  hill  to  our  right.  As  soon  as  we  had 
taken  post,  the  enemy  made  a  very  vigorous  attack, 
which  continued  for  upwards  of  two  hours ;  and 
they  certainly  would  have  forced  us,  had  ,it  not 
been  for  some  Indians  that  arrived  and  gave  the 
Indian  whoop,  which  we  answered  with  three 
cheers ;  the  rebels  soon  after  that  gave  way."— 
Tlie  giving  w^ay  of  the  Americans  was,  however, 
caused,  not  by  the  terror  of  the  way  whoop,  but  by 
the  failure  of  their  ammunition.  The  fact  was,  the 
British  regiment  was  worsted,  and  would  probably 
have  been  taken  or  destroyed,  had  Colonel  Long 
been  well  supplied  with  ammunition.  It  was  said 
by  Captain  Money,  another  British  officer,  that  the 
fire  was  even  heavier  than  it  was  in  the  obstinate 
battle  of  September  19th,  on  Bemus'  heights.  The 
scene  of  this  battle  is  very  correctly  described  above, 
by  Major  Forbes. 

On  leaving  the  street  of  Fort  Anne  village,  we 
crossed  a  bridge  over  Wood  Creek,  and  were  now 
on  its  left  bank.  Immediately  after,  we  came  to  a 
narrow  pass,  only  wide  enough  for  the  carriage,  and 
cut,  in  a  great  measure,  out  of  a  rocky  ledge,  which 
terminates  here,  exactly  at  the  creek.  This  ledge 
is  the  southern  end  of  a  high  rocky  hill,  which  con- 
verges towards^  Wood  Creek,  and  between  the  two 
is  a  narrow  tract  of  level  ground,  .^which  terminates 
at  the  pass  ahready  mention^f  d*    On  this  ground  the 


w 


>«' 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  167 

battle  took  place,  and  the  wood  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  creek,  from  which  the  Americans  fired  upon 
the  left  flank  of  the  British,  is  still  there,  and  it  was 
up  this  rocky  hill  that  they  retreated  and  took  their 
stand.  » 

General  Burgoyne,  as  usual,  claimed  a  victory  in 
this  affair,  which  is  understood  to  have  been  a 
bloody  contest,  as  indeed*  it  obviously  must  have 
been,  from  the  narrowness  of  the  defile,  and  the 
consequent  nearness  of  the  contending  parties. — 
Captain  Montgomery,  of  Colonel  Hill's  regiment, 
was  left  wounded  on  the  field,  and  taken  prisoner 
by  the  Americans,  which  could  not  have  been  the 
fact,  had  the  Royal  party  been  victorious. 

Immediately  after  leaving  this  battle  ground  w« 
arrived  on  the  banks  of  the  canal,  which  they  are 
now  digging  from  the  Hudson  to  Lake  Champlain. 
Being  almost  constantly  in  sight  of  it,  and  very  of- 
ten as  near  it  as  possible,  we  were  seriously  incom- 
rtioded  by  deep  gullies  and  heaps  of  miry  clay, 
thrown  out  by  the  canal  diggers,  through  which  wc 
were  compelled-$o  drag  our  way ;  and  when  we  were 
not  in  the  mud,  we  found  a  road  excessively  rough 
and  uncomfortable,  from  the  united  effect  of  much 
rain  and  much  travelling,  with  occasional  hot  sun- 
shine, in  a  country  whose  basis  is  a  stiff  clay.  We 
rode  almost  constantly  in  sight  of  Wood  Creek,  as 
well  as  of  the  canal. 

The  rocks  on  our  ride  were  immense  strata  of 
gneiss,  often  so  full  of  garnets,  that  the  ledges  ap- 


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168  TOWR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

peared,  at  a  great  distance,  spotted  with  red  and 
brown^  These  primitive  hills  have  every  appear- 
ance of  being  continued,  uninterruptedly,  to  Lake 
George,  and  it  is  evident  that  its  eastern  barrier 
must  be  primitive. 

After  a  very  fatiguing  journey  from  Fort  Anne, 
several  miles  of  which  I  walked,  we  arrived  safelv 
at  Whitehall,  at  the  head  of  Lake  Champlain,  a  Ut- 
ile before  night. 

I  am  told  there  are  on  parts  of  the  road  from 
Fort  Edward,  remains  of  the  causeway,  which  Gen- 
eral Burgoyne,  with  so  much  labour,  caused  to  be 
constructed  for  the  passage  of  his  army,  but  I  did 
not  see  them.  It  will  be  remembered  that  his 
route  was  from  Skeensborough,  (now  Whitehall)  to 
Fort  Edward. 

WHITEHALL— THE  CANAt. 

The  canal  terminates  twenty-two.miles  from  Fort 
Edward,  at  Whitehall,  where  they  are  now  con- 
structing a  lock,  with  handsome  massy  hewn  stone. 
There  is  a  considerable  descent  to  the  surface  of 
Lake  Champlain,  and  Wood  Creek,  whose  moutli 
and  that  of  the  canal  are  side  by  side,  here  rushes 
down  a  considerable  rapid  with  some  grandeur. 
This  is  the  place  formerly  Called  the  falls  of  Wood 
Creek  at  Skeensboroug|i. 

As  Wood  Creek  is  really  a  river,  navigable  by 
larger  boats  th?.n  those  which  will  probably  pass  oh 


€ 


TOUK  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  169 

the  canal,  and  as  the  canal  and  river  from  Fort 
Anne,  a  distance  of  about  ten  or  eleven  miles,  are  of- 
ten close  together,  so  that  a  stone  might  be  thrown 
from  the  one  to  the  other,  a  traveller  does  not  at  once 
see  why  the  larger  natural  canal  should,  with  vast 
expense,*  be  deserted  for  the  smaller  artificial  one. 
Perhaps  the  shortening  of  distance,  by  avoiding  the 
numerous  windings  of  the  creek — the  obtaining  of 
a  better  horse  road  for  dragging  the  boats — security 
from  the  effects  of  floods  and  drought,  in  altering 
the  quantity  of  water — and  the  securing  of  a  more 
adequate  supply  of  water  for  that  part  of  the  canal 
between  Fort  Anne  and  the  Hudson,  may  be  among 
the  reasons,  and,  in  either  case,  there  must  be  locks 
at  Whitehall.  However  this  may  be,  I  cannot  doubt 
that  seme  good  reason  must  have  influenced  those 
who  directed  this  under. ikinn,  although  it  may  not 
be  obvious  to  a  st/aagtr,f 

*  The  whole  expense  o!'  (Le  canal  is  said  to  have  been  esti- 
mated at  $181,000.— U'jris'rr's  GasetUe.: 

t  As  I  walked  along,  I  intenogated  a  plain  u  an,  (appavRntly  a 
substantial  farmer,)  through  whose  possessions  (he  canal  passed, 
why  they  dug  the  cana!   !>f  the  side  of  Wood  Creek,  which  ap- 
I  peared,  of  itself,  to  be  sutScient.     He  replied,  with  a  good  deal  of 
petulant  vvarnillj,  tliat  it  was  to  cut  up  »  iople's  land,  and  to  ex* 
peiul  a  great  deal  of  money,  and  thut  t.  'ouy  influence  and  votes, 
and  that  this  part  of  the  canal  was  perfectly  useless.     I  mcution 
hhi  circumstance,  not  as  entering  at  ail  into  ihis  man's  views,  or 
las  supposing  him  the  least  in  the  right,  but  merely  to  give  a  spe* 
Icimeii  of  a  species  of  IocpI  irritatioft,  which,  I  believe  is  not  un- 
it onimnn  in  similar  cases,  where  farms  are  ItitetlBectcd  by  canali, 

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170     TOUA  BETWEEN  HABTSOllD  AN»  ^tVEBEC 

WHITEHALL  PORT. 

This  is  a  well  built,  and  apparently  thriving  little 
place,  situated  on  both  branches  of  the  muddy 
Wood  Creek,  which  on  its  way  to  the  gulf  of  St. 
Tiawrence,  sluggishly  flows  through  the  village, 
till  it  makes  its  escape,  into  Lake  Champlain ;  it 
then  tumbles  down  a  steep  declivity,  over  a  bed  of 
rocks,  and  foams,  and  roars,  as  if  in  exultation,  at 
making  its  escape  from  its  own  Lethean  channel. 

Whitehall  anciently  called  Skeensborough,  was  fa- 
mous in  General  Burgoyne's  campaign.  Here  he  de- 
stroyed the  little  American  flotilla,  in  July,  1777,  and 
the  baggage  and  stores  of  the  American  army ;  and 
here  he  had  his  head  quarters  for  some  time,  while 
preparing  to  pass  his  army  and  heavy  artillery  over 
land  to  Fort  Edward. 

Whitehall  is  situated  at  the  bottom  of  a  narrow  de- 
file  in  the  mountains,  and  has  the  bustle  and  ;  •  owd- 
ed  aspect  of  a  port,  without  the  quiet  and  cleanli- 
ness of  a  village.  Soma  of  the  houses  are  situated 
on  elevations  and  declivities,  and  some  in  the  bot- 
tom of  the  vole — some  are  of  wood,  and  others  of 
brick,  but  I  was  gratified  to  see  many  of  thera 
handsomely  constructed  of  stone — of  the  fine 
Gneiss  rock  which  abounds  here-— the  two  parts 

or  by  new  turnpike  roads,  or  where  these  facilities  <"or  trans- 
portation give  a  new  direction  to  travelling,  or  to  trade,  or  altffr 
the  estimated  value  of  property, 


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'«*  ' 


rub  A  HETWILUI  BARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.   171 

(ji  the  town  are  connected  by  a  bridge  over  Wood 
Creek.  The  population  of  this  town  is  between 
two  and  three  thousand,  and  the  village  contains  a 
Presbyterian  meeting-house,  four  warehouses,  ten 
siores,  and  more  than  an  hundred  dwelling  houses.* 

The  fever  and  ague  is  now,  very  prevalent  here,  ^ 
and  many  sallow  faces,  and  feeble  frames,  are  to  be 
seen  about  the  streets. 

The  country,  both  up  Wood  Cre^,  and  down 
the  lake,  contiguous  to  the  town,  looks  as  if  it  might 
nourish  fever  and  ague,  but  the  inhabitants  deny 
that  it  is  their  inheritance,  and  profess  to  consider 
the  visitation  of  this  summer  as  fortuitous.  I  am 
afraid  that  their  canal,  with  its  stagnant  waters,  will 
not  help  them  to  more  health.  A  thick  fog  prevail- 
ed here,  most  of  the  time  that  we  were  in  the  place, 
and  rendered  it  uncomfortable  to  move  out  of  doors 
till  the  middle  of  the  forenoon,  when  it  blew  away. 

This  will  probably,  become  a  considerable  place, 
situated  as  it  is,  at  the  head  of  the  lake  navigation, 
and  at  the  point  of  communication,  between  the 
Hudson  and  Lake  Chamnlain.  It  derives  some 
little  importance,  from  the  small  navy  maintained  on 
the  lake,  in  time  of  war;  there  is  a  small  navsl  arse- 
nal here  and  at  present  there  are  a  few  naval  offi- 
cers fnd  men  at  this  station. 


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172  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

THE  OLD  MAN  OF  THE  AGE  OF  LOUIS  XIV. 

Two  miles  from  Wliitehall,  on  the  Salem  road, 
to  Albany,  lives  Henry  Francisco,  a  native  of 
France,  and  of  a  place  which  he  pronounced  Essex, 
but  doubtless  this  is  not  the  orthography,  and  the 
place  was,  probably,  some  obscure  village,  which 
may  not  he  noticed  in  maps  and  Gazetteers. 

Having  a  few  hours  to  spare,  before  the  depar- 
ture of  the  steam  boat  for  St.  John's,  in  Cana- 
da, we  rode  out  to  see,  (probably,)  the  oldest  man 
in  America.  He  believes  himself  to  be  one  hun- 
dred and  thirty-four  years  old,  and  the  country 
around  bcheve  him  to  be  of  this  great  age.  When 
we  arrived  at  his  residence,  (a  plain  farmer's  house, 
not  painted,  rather  out  of  repair,  and  much  open  to 
the  wind,)  he  was  up  stairs,  at  his  daily  work,  of 
spooling  and  winding  yarn.  This  occupation  is 
auxiliary  to  that  of  his  wife,  who  is  a  weaver,  and 
althc  ugh  more  than  eighty  years  old,  she  weaves  six 
yards  a  day,  and  the  old  man  can  supply  her  with 
more  yarn  than  she  can  weave.  Supposing  he  must 
ba  very  faeble,  we  offered  to  go  up  stairs  to  him, 
bixi  he  soon  came  down,  walking  somewhat  stoop- 
ing, aiid  supported  by  a  staff,  but  with  less  apparent 
inconvenience,  than  most  persons  exhibit  at  eighty- 
five  or  ninety.  His  stature  is  of  the  middle  size,  and 
although  his. person  is  rather  delicate  and  slender, 
he  stoop?  but  little,  even  when  unsupported.  His 
complexion  is  very  fair  and  delicate,  and  his  expres- 


^^^. 


TOUB  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  a^GBEC.      173 

gioD  bright,  cheerful,  and  intelligent ;  his  features  are 
handsome,  and  considering  that  they  have  endured 
through  one  third  part  of  a  second  century,  they 
are  regular,  comely,  and,  wonderfully  undisfigured 
by  the  hand  of  time ;  his  eyes  are  of  a  lively  blue ; 
his  profile  is  Grecian,  and  very  fine ;  his  head  is 
completely  covered  with  the  most  beautiful  and  del-  < 
icate  white  locks  imaginable ;  they  are  so  long  and 
abundant  as  to  fall  gracefully  from  the  crown  of  his 
head,  parting  regularly  from  a  central  point,  and 
reaching  down  to  his  shoulders  ;  his  hair  is  perfect- 
ly snow  white,  except  where  it  is  thick  in  his  neck ; 
when  parted  there,  it  shews  some  few  dark  shades, 
ihe  remnants  of  a  former  century. 

He  still  retains  the  front  teeth  of  his  upper  jaw : 
his  mouth  is  not  fallen  in,  like  that  of  old  people 
generally,  and  his  lips,  particularly,  are  like  those  of 
middle  life  ;  his  voice  is  strong  and  sweet  toned, 
although  a  little  tremulous  ;  his  hearing  very  little 
impaired,  so  that  a  voice  of  usual  strength,  with  dis- 
tinct articulation,  enables  him  to  understand ;  his  eye- 
sight is  sufficient  for  his  work,  and  he  distinguishes 
large  print,  such  as  the  title  page  of  the  Bible,  with- 
out glasses ;  his  health  is  good,  and  has  always 
Ibeen  so,  except  that  he  has  now  a  cough  and  ex- 
pectoration. 

He  informed  us,  that  his  father,  driven  out  of 
I  France,  by  religious  persecution,  fled  to  Amster- 
dam; by  his  account,  it  must  have  been  on  account 
hr  the  persecutions  of  the  French  protestants,  or 


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174  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

Hugonots,  in  the  latter  part  of  the  reign  of  Louis 
XIV.  At  Amsterdam,  his  father  married  his  moth- 
er, a  Dutch  woman,  five  years  before  he  was  born, 
and,  before  that  event,  returned  with  her,  into 
France.  When  he  was  five  years  old,  his  father 
again  fled  on  account  of  "  de  religion,"  as  he 
expressed  it,  (for  his  language,  although  very  intel- 
ligible English,  is  marked  by  French  peculiarities.) 
He  says,  he  well  remembers  their  flight,  and  that  it 
was  in  the  winter ;  for,  he  recollects,  that,'  as  they 
were  descending  a  hill,  which  was  covered  with 
snow,  he  cried  out  to  his  father,  "  O  fader,  do  go 
back  and  get  my  little  carriole," — (a  little  boy's 
sliding  sledge  or  sleigh.) 

From  these  dites  we  are  enabled  to  fix  thd  time  of 
his  birth,  provided  he  is  correct  in  the  main  fact,  for 
he  says  he  was  present  at  Queen  Anne's  coronation, 
and  was  then  sixteen  years  old,  the  31st  day  of  May, 
old  style.  His  father,  (as  he  asserts,)  after  his  re- 
turn from  Holland,  had  again  been  driven  from 
France,  by  persecution,  and  the  second  time  took 
refuge  in  Holland,  and  afterwards  in  England, 
where  he  resided,  with  his  family,  at  the  time  ofthe 
coronation  of  Queen  Anne,  in  1702.  This  makes 
Francisco  to  have  been  born  in  1686 ;  to  have  been 
expelled  from  France  in  1691,  and  therefore,  to  have 
completed  his  hundred  and  thirty-third  year  on  the 
eleventh  of  last  June ;  of  course,  he  is  now  more 
than  three  months  ailvanced  in  his  hundred  andi 
thirty-fourth  vvar.     It  is  notorious,   Uiat  abgut  tli 


m- 


TOVR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  175 

time,  multitudes  of  French  protestants  fled,  on  ac- 
count of  the  persecutions  of  Louis  XIV,  resulting 
from  the  revocation  of  the  edict  of  Nantz,  which  oc- 
curred October  12,  1685,  and,  notwithstanding  the 
iruai'ds  upon  the  frontiers,  and  other  measures  of 
precaution,  or  rigor,  to  prevent  emigration,  it  is  well 
known,  that  for  years,  multitudes  continued  to  make 
their  escape,  and  that  thus  Louis  lost  six  hundred 
thousand  of  his  best  and  most  useful  subjects.  I 
asked  Francisco,  if  he  saw  Queep  Anne  crowned ; 
I  he  replied,  with  great  animation,  and  with  an  ele- 
Ivated  voice,  "  Ah !  dat  I  did,  and  a  fine  looking  wo- 
man she  was  too,  as  any  you  dat  will  see  now  a- 
Idays."* 

He  said  he  fought  in  all  Queen  Anne's  wars, 
land  was  at  many  battles,  and  under  many  command- 
lers,  but  his  memory  fails,  and  he  cannot  remember 
Itheir  names,  except  the  Duke  of  Malborough,  who 
Iwas  one  of  them. 

He  has  been  much  cut  up  by  wounds,  which  he 
^hewed  us,  but  cannot  always  give  a  very  distinct 
account  of  his  warfare.  ,, 

He  came  out,  with  his  father,  from  England,  id 
Jew-York,  probably  early  in  the  last  century,  but 
^annot  remember  the  date. 

He  said,  pathetically,  when  pressed  for  accounts 
^fliis  military  experience,  "  O,  I  was  in  all  Queen 
bne's  W9.V3 ;  I  was  at  Niagara,  at  Oswego,  on  the 

r  For  an  unlettered  man,  he  has  very  few  gallic  peculiaritits, 
b(!  tho«e  the  coamon  ones,  such  fts  d  for  th,  &c.  ^' 


^:. 


ih',. 


176     TOUK  BETWEEN   UARTFOBD  AND  <l(JEBB€. 

Ohio,  (in  Braddock*s  defeat,  in  1755,  where  he  was 
wounded.)  I  was  carried  prisoner  to  Quebec,  (iu 
the  revolutionary  war,  when  he  must  have  been  at 
least  ninety  years  old.)  I  fight  in  all  sorts  of  wars, 
all  my  life  ;  I  see  dreadful  trouble ;  and  den  to  have 
dem,  we  tought  our  friends,  turn  tories  ;  and  the 
British  too,  and  fight  against  ourselves,  O,  dat  was 
de  worst  of  all."  ^ 

He  here  seemed  much  affected,  and  almost  too 
full  for  utterance.  It  seems,  that,  during  the  revo- 
lutionary war,  he  kept  a  tavern  at  Fort  Edward,  and 
he  lamented,  in  a  very  animated  manner,  that  the 
tories  burnt  his  house,  and  barn,  and  four  hundred 
bushels  of  grain  ;  this,  his  wife  said,  was  the  same 
year  that  Miss  M'Crea  was  murdered. 

He  has  had  two  wives,  and  twenty-one  children; 
the  youngest  child  is  the  daughter,  in  whose  house 
he  now  lives,  and  she  is   fifty-two  years  old ;  of  I 
course,  he  was  eighty-two  when  she  was  born ;  they 
suppose  several  of  the  older  children  are  still  living,  | 
at  a  very  advanced  age,  beyond  the  Ohio,  but  thej 
^ave  not  heard  of  them  in  several  years.     The  fam- 
ily were  neighbours  to  the  family  of  Miss  M'Crea, 
and  were  acquainted  with  the  circumstances  of  herj 
tragical  death. 

They  said,  that  the  lover,  Mr.  Jones,  at  first,  vow- 
ed vengeance  against  the  Indians,  but,  on  countiog| 
the  cost,  wisely  gave  it  up. 

Henry  Francisco  has  been,  all  his  life,  a  very  ac- 
tive and  energetic,  altiiough  not  a  stout  framed  inau.| 

Til', 


J^ 


tOVA  BSTWIBir  BARTVOmi)  AND  qilEBVC.     177 

He  was  formerly  fond  of  spirits,  and  did,  for  a  cer- 
tain period,  drink  more  than  was  proper,  but  that 
habit  appears  to  have  been  long  abandoned. 

In  other  respects,  he  has  been  remarkably  ab- 
stemious, eating  but  little,  and  particularly,  abstain- 
ing, almost  entirely,  from  animal  food  ;  his  favour- 
ite articles  being  tr  ') read  and  butter,  and  baked 
apples.  His  wife  u.id,  that,  after  such  a  breakfast, 
he  would  go  out  and  work  till  noon ;  then  dine  up- 
on the  same,  if  he  could  get  it,  and  then  take  the 
same  at  night,  and  particularly,  that  he  always  dran^i: 
tea,  whenever  he  could  obtain  it,  three  cups  at  a 
time,  three  times  a  day. 

The  old  man  manifested  a  great  deal  of  feeling, 
aud  even  of  tenderness,  which  increased,  as  we 
treated  him- with  respect  and  kindness  ;  he  often 
shed  tears,  and  particularly,  when,  on  coming  away, 
we  gave  him  money ;  he  looked  up  to  heaven,  and 
fervently  thanked  Oodf  but  did  not  thank  us ;  he  how- 
ever pressed  our  bands  very  warmly,  wept,  and  wish- 
ed us  ever^  blessing,  and  expressed  something  seri- 
I  ous  with  respect  to  our  meeting  in  another  wof)  d •  He 
appeared  to  have  religious  impressions  on  his  mind^ 
notwithstanding  his  pretty  frequent  exclamations, 
when  animate.d*  of  Good  God  !  O,  my  God!  which 
appeared,  however,  not  %» he  used  in  levity,  and 
were  probably  acquired  in  cfaUdbood,  from  the  al- 
post  colloquial  **MonDieu,"&c.  of  the  Frenchi  The 
}ldest  people  in  the  vicinity,  remember  Francisco, 
^s  bei^  always,  froni  their  earliest  reoellectioBj 

16 


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'»!p4#«,?«'-«:'?3i5-V*.'   -v  V  r<i'r\ 


tmm.  wswmxn  MMWTwmm  jam  ^SBfec. 

nmcli  Met  ^Hui  themselveif  I  and  a  Mr.  Fuller,  who 
reewniijrdied  li«re,  between  eighty  find  x^etf  years 
of  age,  '^Kiugkt  Franekeo.  was  one  bimdred  and 

Oil  the  wholev  i^ough  the  ewdencei  rests,  in  a 
degree^  en  Ins  own^credil^ty,  s^ll,  as  many  things 
eomobarate  %  and;  aa  kit  cfa«rac«aff  appear^remark- 
ably  sincere,  guileless,  and  affectionate,  I  am  inclin- 
ed to  believe,  that  he  is  as  old  as  he  is  stated  to 
be^  He  is  reaUy  a  most  remarkable  and  interest- 
ing old  man ;  there  is  nothing,  either  in  his  person 
or  dtesa^of  the  iiegltgenee  and  s^ualidness  of  ex- 
treme age^  especiidly  when  not  in  elev4^d<  cirgum- 
stanees ;  ^i  the  contrary,  heis  agretmble  iom  attrac- 
tive^and  were  he  dressed  in  a  superior  manner,  and 
|daeed  in  a  hradaomo  sad  well  fiiraiahed^partment, 
he  wonldi'be  «  isnoat  beaiitifui^^d  mim^ 

^ytde^-«mdd«^l;faav#e3^»eeted  lQ'*«CH[iv3erse,  and 
sfaal^  hands  wi^  a  man^  who  faas^  beett^  soldier  in 
most  iif  tfae^  vava  o|«  tto^^oarvtry^l^  one  hundred 
yeteoM^wh^mmm  ^ium  a  eentory  ago,  (lliigbt  under 
liilboro^hr  ifttbe  iim  of  %ieenfiAmief  and  who, 
t^drecdj^  gfo^  i^no  manhood^)  smv^^  crowned 
ens  hundted  and  seventeen  tfeart  since  f  whe,  one 
bimdred  aod  tireBty-<e%k  yvava  agp^  and  t»i^ 
eaMliKry  if^M^ftifAe  Jii^  by 

the  pffOtt^  magn^oeill^  and  lirtohMnBt  liotiU  XIV, 
^  lirli^  has  l»v«d^  a  foftji-fou^hpart  <^^  Me  Hm 


Pl„^;i?i%fciV.,g:.^ 


ai-.,r  'a/ni'-i-i 


.'im^i*' 


TOlTft  WTWBEir  B ABTV OBO  ARD  ^VB]IEG«     1 79 

What  an  interviewl  ^It^is  like  seeing  one  come 
back  from  the  dead,  to^elate  ^eeviints  of  centuries, 
now  swaUowedup  in  the  abyss  of  time  !  Except  his 
cough,  which,  they  told  us,  had  not  been  of  long 
standingi  we  saw  notiiing  in  Francisco^s  appearance, 
that  might  indicate  a  speedy^  dissolution^  and  he 
seemed  to  have  sufficient  mental  and  bodily  powers, 
to  endure  for  years  yit  to  come»  '  ^ 


\    M 


PASSAGE  DOwk  LAKE  crfXMPLAlN. 

The  carriage  and  horses  were  received  on  board 
the  ^team-boat  at  Whitehall,  nn  accommodation 
which  whad  not  expected ;  and  thus  we  avoided 
the  inconvenience,  of  having  them  go  around  by 
laadf  to  Bmrlington  in  Vermont,  to  wut  o^  return 
(rom  Canada.  -The  steam-boat  lay  Itt^  "#  wild 
gleni  imn^tately  under  a  high,  precipitous^  rotky 
bill,  and  iKiC  for  ^m  the  roaring  outlet  of  Wood 
Creek^wr  almost  drop  down  upon  ^  port  ill,  on  a 
saddeoy  alii  it  striketone  like  an  mterestinfiliscov- 
ery,  in  a'.couniiy^  80iprild|  and  so  far  inland,  ato  to 
present,  in  o^er  respeetsf  IK>  naautical  imaged,  or 
realities. 

We  left  Whitehall  between  two  and  three  o'clock 
in  the  a^lnoon,  in  th«  €ongreaSj  a  neat  and  rapid 
boat,  and  the  o^'oiie  i*cimaintng  dn  thi  lak^,  since^ 
the  late  aiyfol  catastridiphe  of  die  Phoenix. 

Thei|^  for  many  miles,  after  |t  receiveaf  ^^^d 
Cr^ekki^n  fact,  nodiing  more,  thi 


:.■■;;■  vM 


M'sWt!    ' 


# 


180     TOim  9BTir£B»:  HAIlTrOB»  AND  ^VEBEC. 

gish  rivef)  passing,  without  ftpparent  motion,  among 
high,  rocky,  and  ewen  mountainous  ridges,  be- 
tween  whose  feet,  and  the  lake,  there  isj  generally^ 
a  considerable  extent  of  low,  wet,  marshy  ground, 
of  a  most  unpromising  appearance,  for  any  purpose, 
but  to  produce  fever  and  ague,  unless  by  and  by, 
it  should,  by  dykeing  and  ditching,  be  rescued, 
like  Holland,  from  the  dominion  of  the  water,  and 
converted  to  the  purposes  of  agriculture. 

The  channel,  through  which  we  passed,  is,  for 
miles,  so  narrow,  that  the  steam-boat  could  scarcely 
put  about  in  it,  and  there  seemed  hardly  room  for 
ifhe  passage  of  the  little  sloops,  which  we  freique|)tly 
met  going  up  to  Whitehall.  At  the  very  heW  ofthis 
hfttural  canal,  lie  moored,  to  the  bank,  ktem  and 
stern,  the  flotillas*  of  Macdonough  Hiid  Downie, 
now,  by  the  catastrophe  of  battle,  united  into  one. 

As  we  passed  rapidly  by,  a  few  seamen  shewed 
their  heads  through  the  grim  port-holes,  from 
which,  five  years  ago,  the  cannon  poured  fire  and 
death,  and  we  caught  a  glimpse  of  the  '#iscks,  that 
were  then  covered  with  the  mutilated  and  the  slaift, 
and  deluged  with  their  generous  blood.'    ' 

*  ft  was  a  great  piece  of  self-denial  to  niei  not  to  go  on  board 
of  this  flotilla,  bat,  (a  circumstance  which  I  sbonld  not  otherwi!^ 
'nentfon,)  I  was,  all  the  time  ive  weto  at  Whitehall,  and  indeed 
all  the  way  to  MontrtaUin  a  stato  nf  fevere  saffering^  from  an 
*g<Pftiil  my  face  and  head,  which  obliged  me  to  avoid  the  damn 
air,  iiMEifM^  damp  meadowf,  where  the  flotilla  lay,  mi>9red  to  ih» 
natniilhank  of  the  creek. 


■  V«#- 


TOUR  BfiTWE&N   HARTFORD   AND   ^USBUC.    181 


Sparless,  black  and  frowning,  these  now  disman- 
tled ships,  look  like  the  coffins  of  the  brave,  and 
will  remain,  as  long  as  worms  and  rot  will  allow 
them,  sad  monuments  of  the  bloody  conflict. 
*  Our  passage  down  the  lake  presented  nothing 
particularly  interesting,  except  the  grandeur  of  the 
double  barrier  of  mountains,  which,  although  much 
inferior  in  height  to  those  of  Lake  George,  are  still 
very  bold  and  commanding. 

It  seems  as  if  the  lake  had  been  poured  into  the 
only  natural  basin,  of  magnitude,  which  exists  in 
this  mountainous  region,  and  as  if  its  boundaries 
we]^  irrevocably  fixed,  by  the  impassable  barriers 
of  rocHlland  alpine  land. 

The  mountains,  particularly  on  the  eastern  sid 
presenting  to  the  eyd  their  naked  precipitous  cliffs, 
composed  of  the  edges  of  the  strata,  were  evidently, 
(almost  without  exception,)  gnebs.  This  was  the 
fact  also,  from  Lake  George  to  Lake  Champlain, 
and  at  Whitehall,  notwithstanding  the  assertion  of  a 
late  £ngMsh  traveller,*  that  they  are  lime-stone. 
At  Whitehall,  the  rocks  have  a  very  beautiful  strati- 
fication ;  the  hills  appear  as  if  cracked  in  twd,  and 
one  part  being  removed,  we  have  a  fine  vertical  sec- 
tion; both  their  horizontal  and  perpendicular  divis- 
ions, resemble  a  regular  piece  of  masonry,' and  tbit 
is  the  prevailing  fact,  as  we  pass  down  the  lake. 


.w# 


*  Lieu(eq|iit  Hall,  whose  book  is  general^  tt  Jnitily  ■ndliifeKst- 
iog  perrorluince,  but  sometimes  inaccurate  ai^giaologicflt  topicfi 

16* 


182     TOUR  BBTWBEN  BA»TrOll»  AND  ^tm^EC* 

Th«  dip  of  these  strata  of  goeiss,  which  is  the  east, 
is  very  moderate,  not  exceeding  a  few  degrees,  and 
this  appeared  to  be  the  general  fact  Oh  our  ride 
from  Fort  Anne  to  Whitehall,  the  road  passed  down 
one  of  the  natural  declivities,  formed  by  the  dip  of 
the  rock ;  for  several  hundred  feet,  to  the  right  and 
left,  and  in  the  direction  of  the  road,  the  carriage 
rattled  over  this  perfectly  naked  and  smboth  natu- 
ral pavement.  I  had,  to-day,  no  opportunity  to  land, 
to  inspect  the  rocks>  but,  as  the  boat  often  passed 
very  near  the  cliffs,  sometimes  within  a  few  yards,  I 
was  sufficiently  satisfied,  concerning  their  general 
nature,  and  that  the  country  was  highly  primitive. 

During  our  passage  of  twenty-five  milesHk)  ^'i- 

nderoga,  we  had  a  fine  descending  sun,  shining  in 
till  strength,  upon  the  bold  scenery  of  the  lake,  and 
that  I  might  enjoy  it,  undisturbed  by  the  bustle  of 
a'  crowded  deck,  I  took  my  seal  in  the  carriage, 
where  I  was  protected  equally  from  the  fumes  of 
the  boat,  and  the  chill  of  the  air,  and  cotild,  at  my 
leisure,  calch  every  variety  of  images,  and  all  the 
changes  of  scenery,  that  were  passing  before  me. 
It  was  with  very  great  regret,  that  I  fodnd  we  could 
not  stop,  even  for  a  moment,  at  Ticonderoga  and 
Grown  Point ;  and  it  was  not  till  I  had  devised  and 
dismiss^  several  abortive  plans  for  leaving  the  boat 
and  getting  on  afterwards,  or  in  some  other  way, 
thit  I  submitted  to  pass  these  interesting  places. 

The  tnin,  setting  in  splendor,  shot  hb  liit  beams 
over  Moitnt  Defiance,  as  we  came  iti  sight  of  it,  and 


4 


# 


XOUA  BKTWEfiN  HABTVOHD  AND  ^VEBKC.       183 

the  commencing  twilight,  softened  by  the  first  ap- 
proaches of  CTeoing,  which  was  not  yet  so  far  ad- 
vanced»  as  to  throw  objects  into  obscurity,  cast  a 
pensive  veil  over  the  scite  and  ruins  of   . 


TICONDEROGA. 

The  remains  of  this  celebrated  fortress,  once  s* 
highly  important,  but  no  longer,  an  object  either  of 
hope  or  fear,  are  still  considerably  conspicuous.  A& 
we  cdme  up  with,  and,  from  the  narrowness  of  the 
lake,  necessarily  passed  very  near  them,  I  was  grat* 
Ided,  as  much  as  I  could  be,  without  landing,  by  a 
view  olllheir  ruins,  still  imposing  in  their  appear- 
ance, and  possessing,  with  all  their  associations,  a> 
high  degree  of  heroic  grandeur. 

They  stand  on  a  tongue  of  land,  of  considerable 
elevation,  projecting  south,  between  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  which  winds  around  and  passes  on  the  eas^ 
and  ^e  passage  into  Lake.  George,  whiph  is  on,the 
west.  ,  , ; 

The  remains  of  the  old  works  are  still  c6nspicu- 
ous,  and  the  old  stone  barracks,  erected  by  the 
French^  are  in  part  standing. . 

This  fort  was  built  by  th6  French ;  and  Lord 
Howe,  and  many  other  gallant  men,  lost  their  lives 
in  the  attempt  to  storm  it,  in  1 758. 

From  this  fortress,  issued  many  of  those  fero^ 
cious  incursions  of  French  and  Indians,  which  for- 
merly distressed  the  English  settlements;  aoid  its 


m. 


'«/! 


184     TOCR  BSTWSKN  HAATFORS  AND  ^VlBfiC^ 

\ 

fall,  ia  1759,  when,  on  the  approach  of  General 
Amherst  with  a  powerful  army,  it  was  abandoned 
by  the  French,  without  fighting,  filled  the  northern 
colonies  with  joy* 

In  1777,  great  hopes  were  reposed  upon  this  for- 
tress, as  a  barrier  against  invasion ;  it  was  regarded 
as  being  emphatically  the  strong  hold  of  the  North ; 
and  when  General  Burgoyne,  with  astonishing  ef- 
fort, dragged  cannon  up  the  precipices  of  Mount 
Defiance,  and  shewed  them  on  its  summit,  Ticonde- 
roga,  no  longer  tenable,  was  precipitately  abandbned. 
,  ^  Mount  Defiance  stands  on  the  outlet  of  Lake 
George,  and  between  that  and  Lake  Champlain, 
and  most  completely  commands  Ticonderogii|'which 
it  far  below,  and  within  fair  cannon  shot.  On  the 
slightest  glance  at  the  scene,  it  is  a  matter  of  utter 
astonishment,  even  to  one  who  is  not  a  military 
man,  how  so  important  a  point  came  to  be  over- 
looked by  all  preceding  commanders :  probably  it 
arose  from  the  belief,  which  ought  not  to  have.been 
admitted  till  the  experiment  had  been  tried,  that  it 
was  impossible  to  convey  cannon  to  its  summit— 
On  the  right  is  Mount  Independence,  where  there 
was  %  Jormidable  fort  at  the  time  of  General  Bur- 
goyne's  invasion. 

The  shadows  of  the  night  were  descending  on 
the  venerable  Tioonderoga,  as  we  left  it,  and  when 
I  looked  upon  it&  walls  and  environs,  so  long  and  so 
often  clustering  with  armies^^formidible  for  s6  great 
a  lei^th  of  time  in  all  the  apparatus  and  prepara- 


!'^' 


/' 


/ 


%r 


TaV»BBTWfiJBII  UkVnOKD  A»0  ^VEBEC     185 

tions  of  war,  and  the  object  of  so  many  campaigns 
and  battles ;  but  now,  exhibiting  only  one  solitary 
smoke,  curling  from  a  stone  chimney,  in  its  half- 
fallen  barracks,  with  not  one  animated  being  in  sight; 
while  its  massy  ruins,  and  the  beautiful  green  de- 
clivities, sloping  on  all  sides  to  the  water,  were  still 
and  motionless  as  death,  I  felt  indeed  that  I  was  be- 
holding a  striking  emblem  of  the  mutability  of  power, 
and  of  the  fluctuations  of  empire.  Ticonderoga,  no 
longer  within  the  confines  of  a  hostile  country — ^no 
longelr  a  rallying  point  for  ferocious  savages  and 
for  formidable  armies*— no  more  a  barrier  against 
invasion,  or  an  object  of  seige  or  assault,  has  now 
becom#only  a  pasture  for  cattle. 

At  Ticonderoga,  the  lake  takes  a  sudden  but 
short  turn  to  the  right,  and  forms  a  small  bay,  with 
Mount  Defiance  on  the  left,  Mount  Ind;  pendence 
on  the  right,  and  Ticonderoga  in  front.  This  scene 
is  very  fine,  and  the  whole  outline  of  the  spot — the 
mountains  near,  and  the  mountains  at  a  distance—- 
the  shores— the  bay-*and  the  ruins,  all  unite  to 
make  a  very  grand  landscape.  v 

Night  was  upon  us,  before  we  were  up  with 
Crown  Point,  that  other  scarcely  less  celebri||^d,  or 
less  important  fortress.  The  moon  served  only  to 
enable  me  dimly  to  see  undefined  masses  of  stone 
and  earth,  as  a  bystander  observed,  **  there  are  the 
ruins  of  Crown  Point !"  Wy 

Aknost  every  thing  that  has  been  said  historin^^* 
ly  of  Ticonderoga,  is  applicable  to  Crown  Pointy 


% 


'■&. 


186     TOUm  BfiTWBfiN  HABTFORD  AITD  aVBB^C. 

only  there  has  not  been  much  blood  shed  before  its 
walls.  This  fortress  also,  was  built  by  the  French ; 
it  was  equally  annoying  to  the  English  Colonies  as 
Ticonderoga ;  its  reduction  was  as  ardently  desired, 
ahd  as  many  campaigns  were  undertaken  for  this 
purpose.  Like  Ticonderoga,  it  was  retained  by 
the  French  till  1759,  when  it  was  quietly  abandon- 
ed by  them,  and  Lord  Amherst,  on  taking  posses- 
sion of  it,  built  an  entire  new  fortress  of  stone,  and 
made  it  much  more  formidable  than  before. 


Wf.0 


A  NIGHT  ON  LAKE  CHAMPLAIN 

The  recent  loss  of  the  Phoenix,  and*4he  tragical 
events  by  which  it  was  accompanied,  might  well 
have  caused  us  some  anxiety,  in  the  prospect  of  a 
night  passage  on  the  lake ;  but  the  weather  was  fine, 
and  the,  water  smooth,  and  we  had  a  good  boat, 
furnished  with  a  gentleman's  ca^in  on  deck.  As 
I  was,  however,  scarcely  able  to  sleep  at  all,  I 
passed  most  of  the  night  in  the  carriage,  both 
as  being  a  pleasant  situation,  and  as  affording  me 
some  opportunity  of  observing  the  fire,  the  man- 
agem^^  of  which  I  was  willing  enough  to  see.  I 
am  sorry  to  say,  that  I  wais  disappointed  in  not  ob- 
serving that  anxious  vigilance,  which,  after  the  late 
dreadful  occurrence,  we.  should  naturally  expect  to 
hni.  Large  piles  of  pine  wood,  very  dry,  of 
course,  and  also  very  hot,  from  their  being'  placed 
Aea^r  the  furnace  and  boUers,'  occupied  the  middle 


,;,fft^'.j>.":-v'''" 


i'«^'^^  '•■  ^i'^yf^^yr'-!*-^/^  •trft*:**^^^.  -'Va 


^^^ 


.'^» 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  ^VRBEC.      187 

of  the  vessel.  A  candle  was  placed  by  one  of  the 
people  on  a  projecting  end  of  a  stick  of  this  wood. 
It  had  burned  nearly  down,  and  a  fresh  north  wind 
blew  the  flame  directly  towards,  and  almost  ogainst 
the  pine  slivers,  which  were  very  dry  and  full  of 
turpentine,  and  therefore  in  a  condition  to  catch  fire 
with  the  greatest  ease.  Happily,  from  the  contig- 
uous carriage  window,  Mr.  W  observed  this 
threatening  candle,  and  after  some  importunity  with 
the  people,  (who  seemed  very  indifferent  to  the 
danger,)  succeeded  in  having  it  removed.  It  might, 
very  naturally,  have  caused  the  Congress  to  share 
the  fate  of  the  Phoenix,  which  was  burnt,  by  a  can- 
dle placed  in  a  situation  of  less  apparent  danger ; 
that  is,  near  a  shelf  in  a  closet,  where  it  communi- 
cated fire  to  the  board.* 

We  found  one  other  unpleasant  circumstance : 
the  boat  stopped,  several  times,  at  different  places, 
on  the  two  shores  of  the  lake,  to  deliver  »ttd  re- 
ceive freight,  and  our  Captain  being  extremely  dil- 
atory, we  were  delayed  one  and  two  hours  at  I 
place. 


X"** 


.11 


:\ 


4 


SCENERY,  FLATTSBURGH,  be. 

At  three  o'clock  in  the  morning  we  stopped  at 
Bwrlingtoii,  and  left  the  carriage  and  horses,  with 

pp..'!..    ' 

*0b  oar  ratani,,w«  foand  th«  CongreM  nnder  a  new  Captain, 
landanitt^h  moretlrict  poUoc^  whioh  left  ao  farther  room  to 
Ic^oiilafaiofiiegligenee. 


^?t 


iwit>i'V»>f'>t)4'««l^Wi*'V*)WW'U-*^ 


>•*■  *"t>»<l»W«<***<  - 


"■^ 


m 


188   ToiTA  MXTWtz%  nun wmji  a»d  ^ubbo. 

the  young  man  to  take  care  of  them,  tiU  our  return 
from  Canada.  It  was  day  light  before  we  left  this 
place,  and  the  morning  presented  a  scene  so  similar 
to  Long  Island  Sound,  that  we  could  hardly  per- 
suade ourselves  that  we  were  on  fresh  water.  Al- 
though the  weather  wai  fair,  and  we  could  see  the 
most  distant  shores,  the  high  mountains  were  hardly 
distinguishable,  being  shrouded  in  vapour. 

Early  in  the  forenoon  we  were  in  Plattsburgh 
Bay,  and  pass^^d  over  the  scene  of  Commodore 
Macdonough's  brilliant  victory^  an  event  singuhirly 
decisive  in  its  circumstances,  momentous  in  its  re- 
sults, and  honourable  in  the  highest  degree  to  that 
able  and  gallant  commander.  ^ 

At  this  memorable  place,  (the.only  one  since  we 
left  Ticonderoga  and  Crown  Point,  where  a  long 
delay  would  have  been  grateftil#)  we  had  time  only 
to  walk  a  little  iray  towards  the  village,  and  to  visit 
one  o%be  batteries,  signalised  in  September,  1814, 
in  repelling  the  enemy  from  the  passage  of  the  Sar- 
&iac.  Dr.  L.  Foot*  of  the  army,  caused  the  little 
time  we  had  to  spend,  to  pass  both  agreeably  and 
usefully ;  but  we  wete  soon  again  under  F>y>  (u)<i 
doubling  Cumberland  Head,  roiupt4  l^^hidl  the  brave 
but  unfortunate.  Commodore  Downie  sailed,  to  de- 
feat  and  death,  we  left  the  beautiful  bay  of  Platts- 

burgh,  with  all  i^  gnopd  uid  Inteiefting  associa- 

>    ■  '    '   '  '■''% 

tions. 

*  A  IHeed^  Mi  Ar  iicVeril  ye^ft  i  pMpiiK 


% 


■^■if   •4mtltmku>tnitt:m'.'r4-v«imnu*-jtMi^iiiiWsll^ii^ 


ifP^ 


TOUB  BKTWCKN  HARTVORD  ANB  <iUBBBO.     189 


^iMiii 


I  since  we 

ere  a  long 

lime  only 

od  to  visit 

»r,  1814, 

iftheSar- 

the  little 

leably  and 

jrty,  ^^ 

the  brave 
^^^,  to  de- 
af Platts- 

ig>  asso^cia* 


ENTRANCE  INTO  CANADA. 

Our  passage  down  the  remainder  of  the  lake  was 
very  rapid,  and  we  soon  arrived  at  the  American 
Custom-house  ;  the  boat  was  visited,  but  ou^  bag- 
gage was  not  examined,  and  we  were  treated  with 
the  greatest  civility. 

This  ceremony,  (for  it  was  a  ceremony,  merely,) 
being  over,  we  were  very  soon  abreast  of  the  great 
stone  castle,  resembling  that  on  Governor's  Island, 
at  New-York.  It  was  erected  by  the  American 
Government,  on  Rouse's  Point,  upon  the  western 
side  of  the  entrance  into  the  river  Sorel  or  Riche- 
lieu,  and  was  designed  to  command  the  communi- 
cation between  that  river  and  Lake  Champlnin.  In 
consequence  of  a  late  determination  that  the  boun- 
dary line  (the  45th  degree  of  latitude,)  passes  a  litde 
south  of  this  castle,  it  now  falls  to  the  British  Gov- 
ernment. ^ 

The  current  favoured  our  progress,  and  we 
pushed  on  very  impetuously  through  the  quiet  wa- 
ters of  this  very  considerable  river,  whose  smooth 
surface  was  thrown  into  waves  by  our  rapid 
course.  The  country  on  both  sides  is  the  most 
uninteresting  that  can  be  well  imagined.  It  is  a  low 
wet  swamp,  not  redeemed  like  Holland,  but,  to  a, 
connderable  extent,  too  much  covered  by  water  to  • 
ackhit  of  immediate  cultivation.  A  few  patches  of 
clear  aid  dry  land,  and  a  few  poor  hamlets  appear 
here  and  there,  but  there  is  no  Tillage  worth  men- 

17 


• 


■^ 


i. 


% 


% 


190  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  ^VEBKCi 

tioning  in  the  whole  distance  of  twenty  miles  to  St. 
Jolin's.  The  land  appears  to  the  eye  as  if  it  were 
even  lower  than  the  water,  and  we  naturally  think 
of  fevers  and  agues,  which,  however,  are  said  to  be 
of  rare  occurrence,  and  are  probably  prevented  by 
a  temperate  climate.  At  some  future  day,  should 
this  country  become  populous,  this  low  marshy  land, 
t2which  is  probably  fertile,  may  be  rescued  from  the 
f#ater,  by  the  same  means  which  have  caused  such 
scenes  of  richness  and.  beauty  to  be  exhibited  in 
Holland. 

The  only  very  interesting  object  in  the  river,  is 
the'  Isle  aux  Noix,  eleven  miles  from  the  frontier, 
and  eight  or  nine  from  St.  John's.  The  glitter  of 
arms — the  splendor  of  the  British  uniform — the  im- 
posing  appearance  of  ramparts  and  cannon-^the 
beauty  of  the  log  bftrracks  of  the  officers,  painted  in 
stripes — and  the  bustle  of  military  activity,  of  course 
excited  a  degree  of  interest,  and  afforded  an  agree- 
able relief  from  the  dull  scenes  of  forests  and 
swamps. 

The  Isle  aux  Noix  is  important  in  time  of  war, 
as  being  the  frontier  British  post,  and  has  been  many 
times,  a  point  of  rendezvous  for  armies  and  flotillas, 
not  only  for  the  invaders,  but  for  the  defenders  of 
Canada. 

We  both  left  and  received  passengers  at 
and,  but  without  going  ourselves  on  shore^  an{ 
than  one  hour  from  the  time  we  left  it  brf|%bl  oi| 
to  the  wharf  at  St.  John's,  in  Lower  Canada :  |r 

% 

,1'  ...     *  yW 


(*i"5»('^..../- 


'*• 


f 


TOUR  BET'WEEN  HARTFORD  ASD  QUEBEC.     194 

arrived  before  night  on  the  30th  of  September,  ten 
days  from  our  leaving  Hartford.^ 


ST.  JOHN'S,  AND  DEPARTURE  FOR  MONTREAL. 

St  JohCi, — ^I  scarcely  saw  any  thing  more  of 
this  little  town,  than  what  might  be  observed 
in  passing  to  the  Inn,  where  we  found  attention 
and  kindness,  but  a  house  so  crowded,  that  we 
were  very  willing  to  leave  it  on  our  way  to  Mont- 
real. 

We'  did  not  go  with  most  of  our  steam  boat  com- 
panions in  the  stage,  which  went  on  in  the  night,  to 
La  Prarie,  but  the  next  morning  were  furnished 
with  an  extra  conveyance,  in  which  we  proceeded 
CQ  our  journey.  There  are  good  stages  at  St.  John's, 
exactly  like  the  most  common  kind  of  American 
stage  coaches,  or  rather  stage  waggons,  and  they 
are  furnished  with  good  horses.  Indeed,  we  were 
informed  that  these  establishments  were  set  up  by 
Americans,  whose  enterprize  and  activity  are  re- 
markably contrasted  with  the  unvarying  habits  of 
the  native  Canadians. 

The  private  carriage  in  which  we  travelled,  was 
an  old  fashioned  hack,  such  as  might  have  been 
seen  in  American  towns  twenty  or  twenty-five  years 
^^0  thecacvass  curtains,  (without  windows,)  were 
t^,  had  few  6r  no  strings  to  secure  ^m  in  place, 

*Sttcb  Is  the  eipedition  of  the  pui^«>«htel«»,^^  tbtt  thU  dir- 
tance  maj/ 6e  travelled  la  tliree  days.  *      /*  ■% 


*  > 


t% 


:^ 

■•»■ 

'-   S 

■'■    i'             % 

i 

^  ;r-;      '; 

,  .i' 

'^  \    :, 

h  \ 

■';.f , . ;- 

:| 

•WAV,     :.. 

■(5-«v- 


w 


:^' 


•'«PS"; 


'^mSm 


192     TOUil  BETW££N  HARTFORD  AND   ^VEBEC. 

and  flapping  in  a  brisk  head  wind,  they  served  to 
let  in,  rather  than  to  exclude  the  cold  air,  and  very 
imperfectly  screened  us  from  a  driving  rain.  Our 
coachman  was  a  Vermont  lad,  who  had  emigrated 
in  childhood,  along  with  his  parents,  but  he  had  not 
caught  the  Canadian  tardiness  of  movement,  for  he 
drove  us  at  a  great  rate,  over  a  road  very  level,  but 
by  no  means  smooth  ;  we  were,  however,  willing  to 
bear  pretty  severe  jolting  for  the  sake  of  expedi- 
tion. # 

We  had  an  interesting  ride  of  twelve  miles,  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Sorel  river,  which  murmured 
along  by  our  side,  and  were  charmed  with  the  pret- 
ty comfortable  white  cottages,  constructed  very 
■neatly  of  hewn  logs,  and  forming  apparently  dry 
and  warm  dwellings.  Almost  every  moment  we 
met  the  cheerful  looking  peasants,  driving  their  lit- 
tle carts,  (charrettes,)  drawn  by  horses  of  a  diminu- 
tive size.  The  men  were  generally  standing  up  in 
the  body  of  the  cart,  with  their  lighted  pipes  in  their 
mouths,  and  wore  red  or  blue  sashes  and  long  conic- 
al woollen  caps  of  various  colours.  These  carts 
were  furnished  with  high  rails,  and  occasionally  with 
seats,  occupied  by  females  and  children ;  they  ap- 
peared, (like  our  one  horse  waggons,)  to  furnish  the 
most  common  accommodation  for  transporting  both 
commodities  and  persons'. 

We  gave  our  horses  a  few  moments  of  rest  at 
Cbambly,  but  were  prevented  by  th#  rain  from  leav- 
ing our  Ipn.    I  regretted  this,  however,  the  less, 


'^m 


*      i 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HERTFORD  AND  ((VEBEC.      193 

as  we  expected  to  return  through  the  same  place, 
and  might  be  more  favourably  situated. 

We  lost  no  time  in  resuming  our  journey,^  and 
drove  in  less  than  three  hours  to  Longueil,  through 
a  perfectly  level  country,  well  cultivated,  fertile, 
considerably  populous,  and  furnished  with  very  neat 
and  comfortable  white  houses,  constructed  of  hewn 
logs,  like  those  on  the  Sorel  river.  The  barns, 
frequently  of  a  large  size,  were  usually  built  in  the 
same  manner ;  but  the  want  of  good  frame  work 
was  very  obvious  in  their  frequently  distorted  ap- 
pearance. 

* 

FIRST  GLIMPSE  OF  MONTREAL. 

At  the  village  of  Longueil,  or  a  little  before  ar- 
riving there*  we  caught  th^  first  view  of  Montreal. 
The  first  impression  of  this  city  is  very  pleasing. 
In  its  turrets  and  steeples,  glittering  with  tin  ;  in  its 
thickly  built  streets,  stretching  between  one  and  two 
miles  along  the  river,  and  rising  gently  from  it ;  in 
its  environs,  ornamented  with  country  houses  and 
{reen  fields ;  in  the  noble  expanse  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence, sprinkled  with  islands  ;  in  its  foaming  and 
noisy  rapids ;  and  in  the  bold  ridge  of  the  moun- 
tain, which  forms  the  back  ground  of  the  city,  we 
recognize  all  the  features  neceiMllry  to  a  rich  and 
magnificent  landscape,  and  perceive  among  these 
indications,  decisive  proofs  of  a  flQiurishing  inland 
emporium.  .  * 

17* 

'IIP 


■  P   * 


194    TOUR  BETWEEN  BA&TFORD  AKD  ^VEBEC, 

PASSAGE  OF  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE. 

If  we  experienced  some  elevation  of  feeling  at 
the  first  view  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  we  were  not 
likely  to  hav&  our  pride  cherished  by  the  means 
which  conveyed  us  over  this  mighty  river.  Two 
Canadian  boatmen  ferried  us  over  in  a  canoe,  hol- 
lowed out  of  a  single  log.  Our  baggage  being  duly 
placed,  we  were  desired  to  sit,  face  to  face,  on 
%  some  clean  straw  placed  on  boards  which  lay  across 
the  bottom  of  the  boat :  we  were  situated  thus  low, 
that  our  weight  might  not  disturb  the  balance  of  the 
canoe,  and  we  were  requested  to  sit  perfectly  still. 
Our  passage  was  to  be  nearly  three  miles  obliquely 
up  stream,  and  a  part  of  the  way  against  some  pow- 
erful rapids. 

Between  us  and  Montreal,  considerably  up  the 
stream,  lay  tHe  brilliant  island  of  St.  Helena.  It 
is  elevated,  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  city,  is 
strongly  marked  by  entrenchments,  is  fertile,  and 
covered  in  part  with  fine  timber.  It  is  a  domain, 
and  we  were  much  struck  with  the  beautiful  situa- 
tion of  the  house  on  the  south  side  of  the  island,  be- 
longing to  the  Baroness  Lonqueil.  With  the  island 
and  river,  it  would  fofm  a  fine  subject  for  a  pic* 
,  ture. 

'Our  boatmen  conveyed  us,  without  much  difBcul- 
ty,  to  the  southern  point  of  this  island,  between 
which,  and  the  . 'city,  owing  to  the  compression  ot 
the  river  by  the  island,  a  powerful  rapid  rushes 


4 


% 


TOUB  BETWEEN  HARTTORD  AND  QUEBEC.  195 


along,  with  much  agitatiooi  and  a  current,  which  it 
is  very  difficult  to  stem.  At  the  point  of  the  isl- 
and, particularly,  a  branch  of  the  river,  confined  by 
rocks,  dashes  along,  almost  with  the  rapidity  of  wa- 
ter, bursting  from  a  flood  gate.  Through  this  strait, 
it  was  necessary  to  pass,  and,  for  some  time,  the 
boat  went  back,  and  even  after  landing  us  on  the 
island,  the  canoe  was  coming  around,  broadside  to 
the  current,  when  we  were  apprehensive  that  our 
baggage  must  be  thrown  into  the  river ;  but,  by 
main  strength,  they  pushed  the  boat  through  this 
torrent,  and  along  the  shore  of  the  island,  till  the 
rapid  became  so  moderate,  that  they  ventured  again 
to  take  us  in,  and  push  for  the  city.  It  took  these 
poor  fellows  a  toilsome  hour  to  convey  us  over,  and 
they  demanded  but  a  pittance  for  tlieir  services. 
» 

FIRST  IMPRESSIONS  OF  MONTREAL. 

We  mounted  a  steep  slippery  bank,  from  the 
river,  and  found  ourselves  in  one  of  the  principal 
streets  of  the  city.  It  required  no  powerful  eflfort 
of  the  imagination,  to  conceive  that  we  were  arrived 
in  Europe.  A  town,  compactly  ^.built  of  stone, 
without  wood  or  brick,  indicating  permanency,  and 
even  a  degree  of  antiquity,  presenting  some  hand- 
some public  and  private  buildings,  an  active  and 
numerous  population,  saluting  the  ear  with  two  laik- 
guages,  but  principally  with  the  French— every  thing 


yiW 


*!■- 


u% 


106     TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFOAD  A^D  q,UEB£C. 

seems  foreign,  and  we  easily  feel  that  we  are  a  great 
way  from  home. 


ACCOMMODATIONS  OF  A  PUBLIC  HOUSE. 

We  were  no  sooner  ushered  into  the  mansion 
house,  a  vast  building,  constructed  of  hewn  stone, 
than  we  could  easily  imagine  ourselves  in  one  of  the 
principal  coffee-houses  of  London.  Assiduity,  kind- 
ness, quiet,  and,  in  a  word,  domestic  comfort,  In  ev- 
ery particular,  except  the  absence  of  the  family  cir- 
cle, were  at  once  in  our  possession. 

The  master  of  the  house  was  an  Englishman, 
and,  having  been  brought  up  in  a  London  coffee- 
house, he  very  naturally  transferred  all  that  it  is  de- 
sirable and  comfortable,  in  the  habits  of  those  es* 
tablishments,  to  his  own,  in  Montreal. 

Being  worn  out  with  suffering,  from  the  cause 
which  I  mentioned  at  Whitehall,  I  was  obliged  to 
betake  myself  immediately  to  my  room  and  bed ; 
but,  I  was  not  permitted  to  feel  that  I  was  a  stran- 
ger ;  so  kind  were  the  attentions,  and  so  appropri- 
ate the  various  little  comforts  and  refresh^nents,  that 
were  provided  |nd  administered. 

The  next  morning,  having  obtained  complete  re- 
lief, from  what  1  had  not  expected,  superior  surgic- 
al skill,^  I  was  enabled  to  begin  to  enjoy,  as  .well 
9s  to  see  the  new  objects  around  me. 

*  Iq  a  mode  suflkiently  curious  and  original,  which  I  shall  nen< 
Uon  further  on. 


h 


TOUB  BETW££N  UAMTFORO  AND  qUEB£C.      I9t 


liitP 


ehlsballmen* 


MANNERS  OF  THE  GUESTS. 

Dinner  here,  is  at  five  o'clock ;  soup  was  ready, 
however,  at  almost  any  previous  hour,  and  we  par- 
took of  this  refreshment,  not  having  been  recently 
accustomed  to  so  late  an  hour  for  dinner.  We  found 
at  table,  a  small  party  of  very  respectable  men,  ap- 
parently Englishmen ;  and  we  were  particularly  and 
agreeably  struck,  with  the  gentlemanly  manners  of 
overy  individual  at  table,  where,  although  the  guests 
were  strangers  to  us,  and  probably  most  of  them  to 
each  other,  all  were  polite,  attentive,  and  sociable, 
without  that  selfish  indifference,  or  rude  familiarity^, 
so  common  at  some  public  tables,  where  a  correct 
medium  seems  hardly  to  be  understood. 

The  manners  of  this  circle  were  particularly 
contrasted  with  those  of  a  certain  group,  which 
we  had  encountered  during  our  tour,  and  from  which 
it  was  impossible,  at  the  time,  to  make  our  escape. 
They  were  noisy,  drinking,  swearing,  card-playing 
gentlemen ;  and  of  all  ages,  from  twenty  to  sixty, 
but  in  their  manners  so  alike,  that  youth  and  age 
were  fitly  associated. 

We  began,  at  evening,  to  receive  the  calls  of 
those  to  whom  we  had  letters,  particularly  of 
some  of  our  own  countrymen,  and  obtained  at 
ODCQ,  all  the  local  information,  which  f^e  neected,  to 
direct  our  immediate  movements,  and  t^'^able  01 
to  form  and  mature  our  plans. 


■■Mr 


<ll 
))| 


.kA«M>?lfc^tWf^^«nMUM 


;'>'ii»'fllK#- 


•#■ 


I98  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFOlID  AND  QUEBEC. 


EVENING  SCENES  ON  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE. 

i  The  weather  being  mild  and  fine,  parlour  fires 
'  were  not  yet  kindled  in  Canada,  but,  as  we  prefer- 
,  red  afire  for  ourselves,  we  retired  at  candle  lighting, 
into  a  very  large  and  w6ll  furnished  room,  with  a 
bow  end,  and  overlooking  a  terrace,  thirty  feet  wide, 
and  one  hundred  and  forty-four  long,  which  is  the 
length  of  the  house.  This  terrace  is  thirty  feet 
above  the  river,  immediately  on  its  brink,  and  com- 
mands a  tiew  of  it,  for  many  miles  up  and  down  the 
stream,  and  of  the  country  on  the  Other  shore,  thus 
{^resenting  a  most  delightful  prospect.  This  room 
was  our  parlour,  while  we  remained  in  the  hodse, 
and  we  were  particularly  fond  of  viewing  from  its 
windows,  and  from  the  terrace  below,  the  fine  seethes 
of  twilight  and  evening,  on  the  St.  Lawrence. 

We  had  anticipated  some  inconvenience,  in  vis- 
iting Canada,  so  late  in  the  season,  on  account  of 
the  shortness  of  the  days  ;  but  the  long  and  bright 
twilight,  both  at  morning  and  evening,  made  us  am- 
ple amends,  and  we  found  as  much  light  as  we  left 
behind  us,  although  less  of  sunshine.  At  half  after 
five,  with  the  sun  down^  and  the  moon  at  the  full,  in 
the  firmament,  we  sit  at  the  dinner  table,  apparently 
in  broad  day  light. 

FrOm  the  moment  the  sun  is  down,  every  thing 
be,comes  silent  on  the  shore,  which  our  windows 
overlook,  and  the  murmurs  of  the  broad  St.  LaW' 
reoce,  more  than  two  miles  wide,  immediately  be- 


rw.  I 


TOVE  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AMD  qUEBKC.  199 

fore  us,  and  a  little  way  to  the  right,  spreading  to 
five  or  six  miles  in  breadth,  are,  sometimes  for  an 
hour,  the  only  sounds  that  arrest  our  attention.  Ev- 
ery evening  since  we  have  been  here,  black  clouds 
and  splendid  moonlight  have  hung  over,  and  embel- 
lished this  tranquil  scene ;  and,  on  two  of  those 
evenings,  we  have  been  attracted  to  the  window,  by 
die  plaintive  Canadian  boat  song.     In  one  instance, 
it  arose  from  a  solitary  voyager,  floating  in  his  light 
canoe,  which  occasionally  appeared  and  disappear- 
ed on  the  sparkling  river ; .  and,  in  its  distant  course, 
seemed  no  larger  thanF  some  sporting  insect.    In 
another  instance,  a  larger  boat,  with  more  nume- 
rous, and  less  melodious  voices,  not  indeed  in  per-.§' 
feet  harmony,  passed  nearer  to  the  shord,  and  gave 
additional  life  to  the  scene.    A  few  moments  after, 
the  moon  broke  out  from  a  throne  of  dark  clouds, 
and  seemed  to  convert  the  whole  expanse  of  water 
into  one  vast  sheet  of  glittering  silver,  and,  in  the 
very  brightest  spot,  at  the  distance  of  more  than  a 
mile,  again  appeared  a  solitary  boat,  but  too  distant 
to  admit  of  our  hearing  the  song,  with  which  the 
boatman  was  probably  solacing  his  lonely  course. 

DAY  SCENES  ON  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE. 

The  mere  contemplation  of  a  river,  presenting 
such  a  broad  expanse  of  water,  at  the  distance  of 
(ire  hundred  miles  from  the  ocean,  is  interesting  and 
pleasing.    At  this  season  it  is  a  tranquil  scene,  but 


I  ! 


# 


200  TOUR  BETWEEN  UARTPORS  AND  quCBEC. 

the  river  presents  very  considerable  diversity.  On 
our  right,  it  spreads  into  a  broad  lake,  generally 
smooth,  but,  in  numbers  of  places,  it  is  ruffled  by 
rapids,  and  broken  by  ledges  of  rocks  ;  on  the  left, 
it  runs  with  great  rapidity,  between  the  island  of 
St.  Helena  and  the  city,  and  presents,  at  all  times, 
a  lively  and  magnificent  water  course. 

Occasionally,  sloops,  ships,  and  steam  boats  are 
seen  on  the  river,  either  passing  rapidly  down,  or 
struggling  against  the  current,  but  the  most  com- 
mon craft  of  the  river,  is  of  every  size,  from  a  small 
canoe,  to  the  largest  boats  that  are  built  without 
\  decks. 

S  The  margin  of  the  river,  adjoining  the  city,  is,  at 
most  places  where  there  are  no  wharves,  lined  witli 
floating  rafts  and  separate  logs,  intended  both  for 
fuel  and  for  timber. 

A  scene  of  considerable  activity  is  exhibited  im- 
mediately  before  our  terrace,  by  the  carts  and 
horses,  which  are  driven  into  the  river,  as  far  as  is 
necessary,  and  frequently  till  tlie  horses  can  hardly 
keep  their  feet ;  the  object  is  to  obtain  the  wood, 
which  is  thus  conveniently  loaded,  as  the  body  of 
the  cart  is  as  low  as  the  surface  of  the  river ;  and 
single  sticks,  too  large  for  the  cart«,  are  drawn  out 
seperately  by  the  horses.  The  carts  are  also  used 
for  the  conveyance  of  water  casks  to  supply  the 
city ;  the  horses  are  driven  into  the  water,  and  the 
casks  are  filled,  very  conveniently,  without  reraoy- 
ing  them  from  the  cart. 


^'•IW^^**^!!^.'' 


10UA  SJBTWBKN  BAHlCromD  ANP  ^U£B]BC.     201 

We frequeatly vobsenredf  Qn  the  Sorel  riyier,  the 
French  wopMOy  waihiQg  at  the  riTer's  edge.  The 
same  employment  it  seen  here  before  our  windows. 
Sometimes  the  clothes  are  placed  on  boards,  in  the 
river,  and  pounded;  and,  at  other  times,  the  wq- 
inen  dance  on  th^iQ,  dashing  the  water  about  like 
ducks,  and  seemingly  as  much  for  frolic  as  for  work. 
All  thewi  employments,  are  i^ttended  with  mucli 
vociferatio|i|  and  con|ribute  to  give. life  and  interest 
to  the  quiet  scenes  of  a  great  inland  water. 

Some  oC  the  c^cumstances  which  I  have  just 
n)entioned,  are,  it  is  true,  trivial,  but  still,  they  tend 
to  characterise  the  country  and  its  inhabitants* 

PASSAQE  TO  QUEBEC. 

I  purposely  omit  to  make  any  other  remarks  on 
Mpntreal|.  tin  our  return  from  Quebec,  when  we  ex^* 
pecttomss^scfVfral  days  mpre  in  this  city,  and  the 
observations  of  both  residences  may  be  so  blended, 
as,  in  a  good  degree,  to  avoid  repetition. 

We  remained  in  Montreal  three  days  and  a  half. 
and  wei|t  On  board  the^steam^'boat  \q  lodge,  on  the 
sight  of  the  fourth.  We  lay  quietly  at  the  wharf  till 
one  o'clpcjkfin  tl^  morning  of  the  fifth  \  and  when 
day  Hght  was  fully  displosed,  we  had  p^fssed  many 
miles  down  the  river,  and  were  impelled  rapidly 
forward  by  the  .united  force  of  steam  and  current. 
I  The  weather,  which,  the  day  before,  had  heen  cold, 


rtSK. 


« 


2f>S>     TOU||l  BBTVEUN  UAWrVOMD  AHD  iiUBBUC. 

becan&e  delightfuli  with  a  mild  soft  ai^i  i^nd  a  bril- 
liant sun.  Nothing,  for  a  tame  scene,  could  be 
finer,  than  the  one  which  surrounded  us  after  sun 
rise.  The  flat  shores  are  every  where  studded  with 
white-washed  cottages,  appearing  (likr  those  whicli 
we  had  seen,  when  travelling  by  land,)  to  be  all  warm 
and  comfortable  ;  and,  at  tlie  distance  of  every  two 
or  three  miles,  appeared  a  little  snowy  village,  with 
its  glittering  tin  spire  ;  if  it  included  a  house,  a  little 
superior  to  the  cottage,  that  was  also  covered  witj) 
ibe  same  material. 

TOWN  OF  SOREL. 

Early  in  the  forenoon,  we  were  at  the  town  of 
Sorel,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  the  same  name. 
This  Is  the  point  of  communication  between  Lake 
Champlain,  and  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  is,  of  course, 
a  station  very  important  to  the  countries  on  these 
great  waters. 

At  this  place,  we  were  detained  an  hour  to  take  in 
wood,  which  is  here,  as  in  the  United  States^  dry  pine. 
The  shore  is  so  boiu,  th;t  the  boat  lies  ait  the  bank, 
and  this  is  so  high,  that  tlie  wood  was  thrown  down 
upon  the  deck,  with  a  good  deal  of  violence,  so  as 
to  endanger,  and  actually  to  break,  some  of  the 
^lass  in  the  sky  lights. 

We  went  on  shore,  and  walked  through  the  pria- 
jcipal  stceets  of  the  town. 


■J-***'  .    Hi"'^-  '   >-'--!f"W|-i'yv,\; 


TOUR  BBTWKKH  HARlTOlID  AMd  ^UtiKC.     SQJS 


The  town  of  Sorel,  or,  (as  it  is  sometimes  caNed,) 
William  Henry,  stands  *'  on  the  scite  of  a  fort  built 
in  the  year  1666,  by  order  of  Mons.  de  Tracy;", 
it  was  intended  as  a  defence  against  the  incursion* 
of  the  Indians,  and  received  its  name  of  Sorel,  from 
a  Captain  of  Engineers,  who  superintended  its  con- 
struction. ... 

The  present  town  was  begun  about  the  year  1785, 
by  some  loyalists  and  disbanded  soldiers,  and  it 
eontinues  to  be  the  residence  of  many  old  military 
pensioners.  H**^' 

Although  the  plan  of  the  town  occupies  about 
one  hundred  and  twenty  acres,  the  number  of  lious- 
es  does  not  much  exceed  one  hundred  and  fifty, 
exclusive  of  stores,  barracks,  and  government  build- 
logs. 

The  plan  is  regular,  and  the  streets  intersect  at 
right  angles,  leaving  a  central  square  of  more  than 
five  hundred  feet  on  a  side.^  The  town  is  built  prin- 
cipally of  wood,  and  the  aspect  of  many  of  the  buil* 
dings  is  more  Kke  that  of  an  Anglo-American  town, 
than  any  thing  that  we  have  seen  in  Canada.  The 
population  is  about  fifteen  hundred.  The  churches 
are  of  stone.  We  visited  that  of  the  Catholics, 
which  is  somewhat  ornamented  with  pictures,  but 
cannot  be  considered  as  particularly  handsome.  We 
found  peojple  at  their  devotiood,  and  a  priest  in  t^-- 
tendance. 

*BOQchette.. 


r«i 


i^r 


2^     TOtTR  BETII^SEN  RAftTPORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

Sore)  was  occupied  by  General  Thomas  in  May, 
1776,  with  the  greater  p^rt  of  the  American  army, 
*oii  their  retreat  from  before  Quebec.    Here  Gene- 
ral Thomas  died  of  the  smalt  pox. 

The  river  Sorel  is  two  hundred  and  fifty  yards 
broad,  opposite  to  the  town,  but  it  presents  a  singu- 
lar example  of  a  river  much  narrower  at  its  embou- 
chure, than  at  its  origin  :  it  is  more  than  four  times 
as  wide  at  St.  Johns,  as  at  Sorel,  and  continues  to 
widen  all  the  way  up  the  stream,  to  the  Lake 
Chnmplain ;'  from  St.  Johns,  there  is  also  a  ship 
navigation  into  the  lake ;  but,  from  the  town  of  So- 
rel, vessels  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  tons,  ascend 
only  twelve  or  fourteen  miles.* 

From  the  town  of  Sorel,  we  proceeded  among  a 
great  many  isllmds,  and,  after  passing  a  few  miles, 
entered  that  great  expanse  of  the  river,  which  is 
ten  miles  wide,  and  twenty  miles  long,  and  is  called 
the  Lake  of  St.  Peter.  It  has,  indeed,  a  very  great 
resemblance  to  a  lake,  being  smooth,  and  without 
apparent  motion. 

We  felt  as  we  had  done  in  Lake  Champlain,  that 
this  must  be  Long-Island  sound,  and  here  indeed, 
the  resemblance  is  much  greater,  as  the  water  is 
green,  like  the  ocean.  The  water  is^  of  course, 
shallow,  and  some  caution  is  necessary,  to  avoid 
running  aground.  The  shores  are  very  flat  and 
swampy,  and,  in  a  hot  climate,  ivould  probably  be 
sicklv. 

*  BoufhettP. 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC*  205 

At  the  large  town  of  Three  Rivers,  where  we  ar- 
rived by  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  which 
is>half  way  between  Montreal  and  Quebec,  we  stop- 
ped in  the  stream,  a  few  minutes,  to  take  in  passen- 
gers. -  There  were  some  ships  lying  at  this  place, 
but  there  is  no  harbour,  other  than  the  stream,  nor 
did  I  observe  any  accommodations  for  ships,  except 
the  naked  banks  of  the  river.  This  town  is  the 
third  in  the  province,  but  very  far  behind  the  other 
two ;  it  contains  about  three  hundred  and  twenty 
houses,  and  two  thousand  five  hundred  inhabitants  ; 
it  extends  about  one  thousand  three  hundred  yardi^ 
along  the  river,  and  was  founded  in  1618.*    , 

Proceeding  down  the  river,  we  continued  to  en- 
joy a  delightful  day's  sail,   with  a  pei^ect  Indian 

summer.     Mr.  W and  myself  had  a  large  state 

room  to  ourselves,  where  we  could  retire  in  perfect  se* 
elusion,  whenever  we  did  not  choose  to  be  among  the 
passengers,  who,  however,  were  few  and  civil,  and, 
as  the  boat  was  very  large,  we  had  none  of  the  in- 
eonveniences  of  a  crowd.  I  occupied  a  good  deal 
of  the  dtiy  in  writing,  as  the  scenery  had  a  very  great 
degree  of  sameness,  and  from  the  windows  I  could 
catch  a  glimpse  of  its  changes,  so  as  to  go  seasona- 
bly on  deck,  and  not  to  lose  any  important  object. 

Towards  evening,  when  we  were  just  above  the 
Richelieu  Rapids,  and  the  surface  of  the  river  ex- 
tremely smooth,   the  Captain  pointed  out  a  large 


^fi 


*Boachette. 
18* 


206  TOVB  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  ((VCBBC. 

seal,  sleeping  on  the  wafer,  at  the  distance  of  pei- 
hap»  two  or  three  hundred  ymrds.  He  fired  at* it 
five  xa  six  times,  without  effect;  we  could  see  the 
balls  strike  the  water,  very  near  the  seal,  but  the  ani- 
mal did  not  even  awake,  or  change  its  position. 

As  the  rapids  of  Richelieu,  where  the  river  is  very 
narrow,  and  the  current  rushes  tumultuously  over 
a  rocky  bottom,  are  esteemed  dangerous  for  night 
navigation,  and  as  it  was  already  evening,  we  cast 
anchor  to  wait  the  return  of  day.  This  was  just 
what  we  could  have  wished^  for,  had  we  continued 
on  our  course,  we  must  have  arrived  at  Quebec  in 
tlie  night,  and  thus  have  lost  the  noble  scenery  of 
the  approach  to  this  city.  We  had  also  the  addi- 
tional advantage  of  a  night  of  perfect  quiet  and  se- 
curity, undisturbed  by  the  jar  of  «he  machinery,  or 
the  trampling  of  the  people.  Indeed,  had  we  been 
in  moiion,  we'  should  have  felt  very  secure  at  night, 
for  the  fire  and  the  boiler  were  as  far  from  us,  as 
the  whole  length  of  a  common  Kuropean  ship,  and 
no  accident  has  ever  happened  in  this  river. 
In  the  morning  we  were  again  under  way,  as  soon  as 
we  could  see  suflSciently  to  avoid  the  rocks,  which  are 
so  numerous  here,  that  day  light  is  almost  indispen- 
sable to  a  safe  passage.  It  was  a  perfect  May  morning, 
with  the  finest  softest  splendor  of  an  Indian  summer, 
so  that  we  bad  every  inducement,  and  every  oppor- 
tunity to  observe  the  various  interesting  objects  that 
occurred.  By  this  time  we  had  become  familiar, 
and  acquainted  with  several  of  our  fellow  passen- 


TOtJB  BBTWBEII  H ARTTO&B  AMD  ^VSBCC .     207 

gers,  fnmfmg  whom,  were  English  military  and  na*- 
val  m^n,  Quebec  merchants,  and  a  Roman  Catholic 
Ecclesiastic.  The  latter  came  on  bbard  at- the 
Three  Rivers,  and  appeared  a  mild  and  amiable 
man.  From  our  other  companions,  to  whom  we 
made  known  our  country,  and  our  views  in  travel- 
ling, we  received  every  desired  information,  and 
the  most  obliging  civilities.  The  military  gentle- 
men particularly,  were  very  courteous,  and,  as  they 
were  not  only  acquainted  with  Canada,  but  had  seen 
much  of  other  countries,  and  of  foreign  military  ad- 
ventures, ^  they  were  very  interesting  and  instruc- 
tive. One  of  them  had  witnessed  in  persdn,  some 
of  Wellington's  victories,  and  another,  a  man  of 
most  original  and  attractive  character,  and  appa- 
rently of  warm  piety t  had  been  not  less  occupied,  in 
the  East-Indies,  in  promoting  schemes  of  benevo*- 
lence,  than  in  the  pursuits  of  arms.  Having  been 
warned  that  Quebec  would  burst  upon  us,  all  of  a 
sudden,  and  that  we  were  drawing  near  to  it, 
our  eyes  now  gazed  in  no  other  direction,,  and  our 
thoughts  became  entirely  fixed  upon  that  object. 

APPROACH  TO  QUEBEC. 

Oct,  6.-^This  seat  of  ancient  dominion — now  % 
hoary  with  the  lapse  of  more  than  two  centuries — 
formerly  the  seat  of  a  French  empire  in  the  west— | 
lost  and  won  by  the  blood  of  gallant  armies,  and 
of  illustrious  commanders—throned  on  a  rock,  and 


^ 


m 


Iti 


• 

H 

f 

11 

<* 

K  1' 

n 

l.-«'.li'-i»«l*»'l" 


*.   .u.-', 


■  / 


1208     T«t7B  B£TWES^^IIrTF«BD  AND  (QUEBEC. 

defended  by  all  the  proud  defiance  of  war—- who 
could  approach  such  a  city  without  emotion? — ^Who 
b  America  has  not  longed  to  cast  his  eyes  on  the 
water-girt  rocks  and  towers  of  Quebec  I 

On  approaching  this  city,  about  the  middle  of 
the  day,  we  enjoyed  the  most  propitious  circum- 
stances of  light  and  weather. 

From  Cape  Rouge,  on  our  left,  (seven  miles 
above  Quebec,)  there  is  an  uninterrupted  range  of 
high  ground,  rising  even  into  hills  and  precipices. 
€!ape  Rouge  is  so  called,  from  its  red  colour — the 
precipitous  bank  being  stained,  probably^  by  oxid  of 
iron,  so  as  to  give  it,  for  miles,  a  reddish  hue. 
■  The  land  grew  higher  and  higher;  we  passed 
the  mouth  of  the  Chaudiere  river,  six  miles  from 
Quebec,  on  our  right,  where  a  number  of  ships 
wore  waiting  to  take  in  timber,  and  we  watched  eve- 
ry moment,  for  the  appearance  oCthe  great  fortress 
of  the  north,  while  one  of  our  military  acquaintances 
pointed  out  to  us  the  various  interesting  objects,  as 
we  camQ,  up  with  them  in  succession.  At  length  we 
descried  the  towers  of  Quebec,  standing  on  a  rock 
of  three  hundred  and^rty  feet  in  height,  mdisiired 
Trom  the  river. 

I  have  already  remarked  that  the  banks  (espe- 
cially the  north  one)  are  for  mii<|i  above  the  city, 
yery  precipitous,  and  they  grow  more  so  the  nearer 
rWe  approach.  About  two  miles  from  Quebec  we 
were  shewn  Sillery  river  and  cove,  and  within  one 
mile,  or  a  mile  and  a  half  of  the  cit^,  Wolfe's  cpn, 


■ « 


^ 


iBEC. 

^ar— -who 
if—Who 
es  on  the 

niddle  of 
s  oircum- 

yen  miles 
[I  range  of 
irecipices. 
ilour — the 
by  oxidof 
hue. 

ve  passed 
liles  from 
r  of  ships 
tched  eve- 
iat  fortress 
ualntances 
objects,  as 
;  length  we 
on  a  rock 
,  m^isurecl 

nks  (espe- 
e  the  city, 

the  nearer 
Quebec  we 

within  one  .  | 

olfe*fl  com 


-%- 


4^; 


h 


p. 


li'i 


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^ 


X  Ci 


'"«"# 


■^♦f»*  tvif^Wf'. , 


4lp*'^<'* 


']ijk'  t'Mt'ii  \'^hh  lumber  and  ships.  This  name  bas 
!>€eit  <i'f:rive(3,  from  the  fact,  thai  here  (jleuorai 
VV^i^<»,imtier  cover  of  night,  landed  bis  army,  ua- 
.';ew:(*iv«d  by  the  Freacb,  sind  clambering  up  the 
preciplee,  gained  the  heights  ofAbrahum. 

Tbrpf  round  towers  of  stone,  mounted  wiih  can- 
Tiofl  ^n<\  standing  on  these  ht'ight«,  in  advance  of  the 
other  vrorks  cl  Quebec,   are   the   fn'-t  objects  that 
strike  the  eye ;  then  the  high  wails  ol  stonej  cover- 
ed with  heavy  artillery,  and  which,   as  we   come 
neatr^r  to?  the  city,  vve  perceive  to  extend  idl  along, 
fipOK    tiic    verge     of    the    precipice,    of    r?uked 
rock.  <ff  more  than   three  hundred  4eet  in  heigjit^ 
.vvhioh  divides  the  lower  from  the  upper  town*     Qu 
:>ur  rlpiij  was   the    ground   on   the  south  easftetipi     i^SS^ 
^Hleof  ll«?  river,  called  point  Leri.     This  |^js^^;i|. || 
jirecipiin^  of  rock,  but   rather  It^ss  ekvatfj  tiWit  |/ 
Capf.'  Diamond,  on  wivich  the  citadel  of  %ieb«N^#  -^ 
;>uiU.     Point  Levi   is  now  covered   whh   k»ritji&s* 
vfj^e- hfloaes.     In  the  yetir  175ll|- Gt?neral  M<»mikr 
♦ift,b; ;\'>rder  of  General  VVolfc,  erected  his  bati»jjiiNs 
thftfe,  t*>  bom  hard  Quebec.  '  ;, 


V  PU-INT    NO.    5. 

Thlr^ketch,   taken  by'Mr.  W~ — ,  from  thf? 

'!£5fim  1l©fif^  #a$^commet5c>^d,   about  three  or  four 
iuiles  abdvelbe  eity,  arid   when  we    w'^se  passinpc 

■^hjocted  to  mk  disadvantage  of  ronstant  change 

'*^  I^Mb^i  ^'feut,  HI  It  fortunatdv  bappeneH,  thin  tk- 


r. 


m 


iVv-  ■"* 


;^ 


^ 


j¥ 


A     \ 


^F 


iti 


;A' 


i*     ,!Ii^ 


;^  »> 


,Ml^«« 


'■■'W'V! 


■J" 

TOVH  »STWEEN  HABTTORO  AND  aVEBEC.  209 

now  filled  with  lumber  and  ships.  This  name  has 
been  derived,  from  the  fact,  that  here  General 
Wolfe,under  cover  of  night,  landed  his  army,  un- 
perceived  by  the  French,  and  clambering  up  the 
precipice,  gained  the  heights  of  Abraham. 

Three  round  towers  of  stone,  mounted  with  can- 
non and  standing  on  these  heights,  in  advance  of  the 
other  works  of  Quebec,  are  the  first  objects  that 
strikd  the  eye ;  then  the  high  walls  of  stone,  cover- 
ed with  heavy  artillery,  and  which,  as  we  come 
nearer  to  the  city,  we  pereeive  to  extend  all  along, 
upon  the  verge  of  the  precipice,  of  naked 
rock,  of  more  than  three  hundred  feet  in  height, 
which  divides  the  lower  from  the  upper  town.  On 
our  right,  was  the  ground  on  the  south  eastern 
side  of  the  river,  called  point  Levi.  This  also  is  a 
precipice  of  rock,  but  rather  less  elevated  than 
Cape  Diamond,  on  which  the  citadel  of  Quebec  is 
buih.  Point  Levi  is  now  covered  with  brilliant 
white  houses.  In  the  year  1759,  General  Monck- 
ton,  by  order  of  General  Wolfe,  erected  his  batteries 
there,  to  bombard  Quebec. 

PHINT   NO.    5. 

This  sketch,  taken  by  Mr.  W ,  from  the 

steam  boat,  was  commenced,  about  three  or  four 
miles  above  the  city,  and  when  we  were  passing 
every  moment,  rapidly  along.  It  was  unavoidably 
subjected  to  the  disadvantage  of  constant  change 
9f  poi^^n  ;  but,  as  it  fortunately  happened,  this  cir- 


'iS^ 


,*»«» 


*,^**5V"' "«■->'/**■ 


»;Vis^#«»Si<5p>w4 


m    ■ 


210     TOUR  BITWIEN  HARTrOlUf'iMfi  ^triBM. 

Gumstance  rather  augmented  the  distinctness,  than 
altered  the  relative  position  of  the  principal  objects. 

On  the  right,  is  exhibited  part  of  the  promontory 
of  Point  Levi,  with  a  glimpse  of  a  few  of  the  hous- 
es and  ships  at  its  foot.  In  the  remote  view,  down 
the  river,  are  seen  some  of  the  highlands,  beyond 
the  falls  of  Montmorenci,  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
river,  and  at  the  distance  of  from  ten  to  fifteen  miles. 
Immediately  before  the  observer,  is  the  smc.  th  ex- 
panse of  the  river,  with  some  of  the  numerous  ships 
and  boats  that  adorn  its  surface. 

On  the  left,  and  nearest  at  hand,  a  beautiful 
•opse  of  wood,  with  some  buildings  at  its  feet,  jus( 
intercepts  the  view  of  Wolfe's  cove,  which  lies  be- 
tween this  grove  and  the  high  ba.ik  on  which  stands 
the  nearest  round  tower ;  only  the  opening  of  the 
^ove  is  seen.  Then  come  the  heights,  on  which 
are  the  plains  of  Abraham,  and  upon  them  the  Mar- 
tello  towers,  two  of  which  only  are  from  this  posi- 
tion visible  ;  the  view  of  two  others  is  cut  off  by  the 
intervening  heights.  Further  on,  appears  Cape 
Diamond,  composed  of  almost  perpendicular  pre- 
cipices of  naked  rock,  three  hundred  and  forty- 
five  feet  in  the  greatest  height.  The  walls  and 
towers  of  massy  stone,  pierced  and  cut  down  for 
embrasures,  and  crowned  with  the  flag  staff  and 
colours  that  appear  on  this  Cape,  constitute  the 
Citadel  of  Qdebcc.  Immediately  at  the  foot  of 
this  precipice,  i#the  commencement  of  the  lower 
towr>/\yhich  is  continued  around  the  foot  of  the 


'f 


■«#;. 


■■f.* 
'"'1 


■^^]k^*mt^^.K^'A': 


■■  ,■  "»!a 


TOUR  BETWEEN  BARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.   21 1 

rock ;  only  a  very  small  part  of  it,  and  no  portion 
of  the  houses  of  the  upper  town  is  visible  from  this 
point  of  view. 


Arrived  in  the  bay  of  Quebec,  we  found  it 
swarming  with  ships,  and  presenting  every  appear- 
ance of  a  great  seat  of  commerce.  The  bay  is  a 
beautiful  piece  of  water,  looking  like  a  perfect 
lake,  with  most  nobly  formed  swelling  shores.—*- 
It  is  bounded  by  the  ground  just  mentioned— 
by  the  Isle  of  Orleans,  four  miles  down  the  river, 
and  by  a  delightful  country,  on  the  north  and 
north  east,  intersected  by  the  Montmorenci  and 
St.  Charles'-  rivers,  which  fall  into  the  bay  ;  the 
ground  slopes  with  charming  declivity  to  the  water, 
around  which  it  sweeps  gracefully  like  a  bow,  and 
presents  in  a  long  circuit,  so  many  snow  whit« 
cottages— handsome  country  houses,  and  fine  popu- 
lous villages,  that  it  seems  for  leagues,  almost  one 
continued  stjreet.  The  land  is  finely  cultivated, 
and  even  now,  is  covered  with  the  deepest  verdure 
and  sprinkled  with  dandelions  in  full  bloom.  Back 
of  this  fine  amphitheatre  of  rural  beauty,  ranges  of/ 
mountains,  stretch  their  shaggy  summits  and  limit 
the  view.  |The  harbour  is  one  of  the  grandest  im- 
aginable, aiid  the  whole  scene  resembles  extremely 
the  pictures  of  the  bay  of  Naples,  to  which  it  is  said 
i^  competent  judges,  to  bear  a  strong  resemblance^ 


I  ,tr  t 


•u 


■li 


J- 


..MM«ai«<m<wMWM«i« 


% 


212    TOV»  VBTWMtH  HAATFOIUI  AMD  4|iniiKC. 

Wt  had  icavotly  tiiii«  10  ■i4aS'«  U|is  fin*  KMe,  be* 
fore  w#  wen  moored  ct  tbe  dock  in  the  kfmt  town, 
in  tbe  midtt  of  all  the  din  of  a  crowdeil  fort.-> 
While  we  were  waiting  for  the  neeeiiirjr^arrange. 
ments  to  land,  weliad  a  few  momenttio eontem- 
plate  the  new  seene  before  us.  Contiguous,  was 
the  lower  town,  skirlhig  the  upper,  and  embracing 
thi^  feet  of  its  roekjr  precipicea.  It  midief  a  circuit 
of,  I  should  imagme,  almost  two  mi|e%  and  is 
crowded  in  the  most  oon^paot  manner  possible,  on 
a  narrow  strip  of  land«  between  the  precipices  and 
the  St.  Lawrence.  The  houses  are  so  far  below 
the  walls  of  the  uppsf  town,  thai  a  stone  could  be 
dropped  into  the^  chimnies  of  the  nearest,  and  it 
would  in  most  places  (all  two  or  three  hundred  feet 
in  the  air  before  it  reached  its  olijeet*  . 

One  of  the  most  striking  eijects  bdbre  4iur  eyes 
was  the  Castle  of  St«  Louie-^^the  residenioe  of  the 
Ciovernor.  It  is  a  hundred  and  sixQr^two  feet 
long,  forty-five  broad,  and  three  storiei  high.  It 
stands  (almost  impending  ever  the  lower  town)  up- 
on the  very  verge  of  the  giddy  precipice  of  two 
hundred  feet  in  height,  and  lofty  pUlars  are  built  up 
from  the  rock  below  to  support  Its  gtUery,  which 
runs  tbe  whole  leng^of  the  building^  Jtis  a  plain 
yeilow  structure  (^  stone,  and  now  eXhit^its  no  ap- 
llMsiorance  of  it  Cai^e  although  it  was  a  |ortress  un- 
dto  the  French  governmeoi.  ^ 

From  the  Castle  an /Observer  may  JookAiwn  per- 
pendicularly upoA  the  hollies  of  4ie  burer  town 


'ur- 


:-rtV^;..^«' 


c. 

le,  be« 
rtown, 
port.— 
prange- 
iontem- 
ii8,  was 
ibracing 
I  circuit 
and  is 
lible,  on 
ces  and 
ftr  below 
so\iki  be 
It,  audit 
idred  feet 

i-  ■ 
4»ur  eyes 

of  the 
•tvp  feet 
Ibigh.  It 
jown)  up- 

of  two 

|e  built  up 

|ry ,  wbich 

is  a  plain 

»it8  no  ap- 

^rtcess  uD- 


per- 


town 


Pi 


0 

V 


'!?^',- 


.;* 


*& 


4l&*         ^'    ♦■ 


^i.; 


■^%:^ 


"f'lV 


% 


#' 


lit 


f<;> 


«%    BflElWJfiEN    >1 


*■ 


^JRlf    ANJ>    ^VUliE^-     211^ 


'.'*   ju  i|ie  fOcfiwibiu  even  to  the  aootioii  oJTa 

;U  ^t  olTensiv^ls  well   as  agreeaMjl  objeris  of  a 

.f«!>w4e''«  port — ilnfj,  grotesque  assem^age,  of  iMuld- 

:^s,  pjp^liai?.  (ajHisj^aid)  to  an  old  French  tuwii ; 

;     .  iiear  the  rumbling:  of  carts  and  drnys  am! 

,  1     lau  of  diiierent  liiDgua.a;es,  ami  h6  wlH  riihale 

i-:>keand  gsises  from  a  crow'd  of  ciijnmies, 

•  'the  foQtof  the  biiildiag  on  which  he  Sf^nds. 

i*«5  il>e   right  of  the  Custie,vthe  ma?=sy  walls  ap- 

<ahi,   and  the  hlark  artliiery,  pointing  ovel^ 

,j5^mnet,  look  like  heasits  of  prey,  croe.rliiiij^  and 

ro  leap  upon  their  victin^s.  ;>  ,#^:: 

mon  landed,  under  the  auspices  of 

.  four  newly  acquired  military  Iriea^)^^ '; 

jhewed  us  our  lodgings,  in  St.  Jc(ha>:  street, 

»?  hatigage  ronveyed  to'ldTieni,  by  im  '>ivn  r;c:;r- 

4d  called  .soon  after  t(i  enqnim  fi*»r  «M:r  wvj- 

Pill  NT    NO.  6. 

v»«w  was  taken  from  tlie  stcsai  heat,  v,  . 
s^cani  hoats  and  vessels  w  ere  between  f 
ttarf,   and  they  are  the  nearest  ohje'*t> 
obf«erve  at  the  bottom  of  the  pictW'  " 
n.     ii:.;-  buildings  in  the  jnost  f y  .v\.j?d   and 
■  '■  of  ilie  lower  town,  which  in«v  he  f;on- 
,(wiih  ncbpsiclerabje  omis^iioe  of  hauxcj> lui;- 
iefl,)  as  a  eontinnalioii  of  tb6^ft♦s^f;Mf:i!•* 


IT  llJ  I 


•""■'i  1 


•m^ 


t 


~^-     '  \  »S   -t^i 


*s  <^t:^^r- 


iratEwag??;,, 


f-'* 


/^^-^'-ii, 


■*«*:;" 


VMt, 

(ire. 


»vX-  .-i-:!!; 

This 

C:./f-^?^?l^ 

■ 

still  oth 

?^ 

and  the 
which  \ 

^J^ifvll      f--'^^' 

Then  c( 

am^i-;^:   ■  -'*: 

hi 

\ 

!*usth'ng 
idered 

■■■■■ 'V    / 

m 

V 

lier  to  t 

Naot 


coi 


#■ 


Too^^B%:w£CN  HAArriroRD  and  Quebec.  21  S 

see  all  the  confusion,  even  to  the  motion  of  a  dog; 
all  the  offensive  as  well  as  agreeab|$|  objects  of  a 
crbwded  port — ^the  grotesque  assemblage  of  build- 
ings, peculiar  (as  is  said)  to  an  old  French  town ; 
he  may  hear  the  rumbling  of  carts  and  drays  and 
the  jargon  of  different  languages,  and  he  will  inhale 
the  snaoke  and  gases  from  a  crowd  of  chimnies, 
rising  to  the  foot  of  the  building  on  which  he  stands. 
On  the  right  of  the  Castle,  the  massy  walls  ap- 
pear again,  and  the  black  artillery,  pointing  over 
the  parapet,  look  like  beasts  of  prey,  crouching  and 
ready  to  leap  upon  their  victims. 
We  soon  Istnded,  under  the  auspices  of  Captain 

: — ,  (our  newly  acquired  military  friend)  who 

politely  shewed  us  our  lodgings,  in  St.  John's  street, 
had  our  baggage  conveyed  to  them,  by  his  own  ser- 
vftDt,  and  called  soon  after  to  enquire  for  our  wel- 
fare. 

PRINT   NO.  6. 

This  view  was  taken  from  the  steam  boat,  while 
other  steam  boats  and  vessels  were  between  it 
and  the  wharf,  and  they  are  the  nearest  objects 
which  we  observe  at  the  bottom  of  the  picture.* — 
Then  come  the  buildings  in  the  most  crowded  and 
[bustling  part  of  the  lower  town,  which  may  be  con- 
idered  (with  a  considerable  omission  of  houses  fur- 

er  to  the  left,)  as  a  continuation  of  the  commence- 

'  The  wall  and  arched  passage,  on  the  nearest  ptrt  of  the  ibore, 
|re  Bot  copied,  but  are  from  fancy. 

19 


^•v 


|i    W 


m 


m 


I 


m'^m 


m  i'f 


d/ 


214     TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  ^EBEC. 

'W'  "  '* 

mentor  the  lower  town,  seen  at  the  foot  of  Cape 

Diamond,  in  Print  No.  5. 

In  the  present  print  we  see,  immediately  before 
us,  confused  piles  of  houses  and  stored,  buih,  ia 
many  instances,  in  the  old  French  style,  with  steep 
high  roofs,  having  two  or  more  rows  of  dormant 
windows.  * 

On  the  highest  point  of  the  extreme  left,  is  Cape 
Diamond,  with  a  part  of  the  Citadel  in  view,  crown- 
ed with  the  flag  and  telegraph.  On  the  right  ot 
these,  are  a  few  of  the  houses  of  the  upper  town, 
and  almost  immediately  before  us,  the  elevated 
Castle  of  St.  Louis,  with  its  gallery,  supported  by 
high  pillars  of  stone,  springing  from  the  rocks  below. 

Still  further  on  the  right,  we  observe  other  hous- 
es in  the  upper  town,  (only  the  nearest  edge  of 
which  is  however  visible,)  and  on  the  extreme  right 
is  a  spire  of  one  of  the  Catholic  churches. 

ENTRANCE  INTO  QUEBEC 

As  we  passed  along  the  streets  of  the  lower  towu, 
I  could  well  have  tliought  that  we  were  in  the  Wap- 
ping  of  London.  A  swarming  population,  among 
whom  sailors  were  conspicuous ;  the  cheering 
heigho !  of  the  latter,  working  in  the  ships ;  the  va- 
rious merchandize,  crowded  ipto  view,  in  front  o! 
the  shops  and  warehouses;  the  narrow  compact | 
streets,  absolutely  full  of  buildings ;  the  rattling  o 
innumerable  ^arts  and  drays,  and  all  the  jargon  c 


■  ^ 


■fixk 


^91^^ 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  <lUEbEC.     SilB 


it,  is  Cape 
w,  crown- 
e  right  ot 
pper  town, 
B   elevated 
)ported  by 
)cks  below. 
other  hous- 
jst  edge  ol 
ttreme  right 


lower  towu, 
intbeWap- 
tion,  among 
be    cheering  ] 
lips ;  the  va- 
in front  0! 
row  compacil 
le  rattling  o 
the  jargon  c 


discordant  voices  and  languages,  would  scarcely 
permit  us  to  believe  that  we  were  arrived  in  a  re- 
moie  comer  of  the  civilized  world. 

Wd  did  not  feel  so  absolutely  like  strangers,  as 
we  should  have  done,  without  the  countenance 
of  the  Captain.  I  have  already  mentioned,  that  a 
fortuitous  acquaintance  with  this  gentleman,  on 
board  the  steam  boat,  and  an  incidental  disclo- 
sure to  him  of  our  views  in  visiting  Canada,  led  to 
a  good  deal  of  mutual  kindness,  and  on  his  part  to 
offers  of  service.  He  is  a  Captain  of  the  grena- 
diers ;  is  still  a  young  man,  and  being  open,  frank, 
and  friendly  in  bis  deportment,  he  won  our  confi- 
dence, and  did  not  withhold  his  own.  We  learned, 
that  he  served  in  the  Peninsular  war,  both  under 
Sir  John  More,  and  under  Wellington  ;-  be  was  with 
the  former  when  he  fell,  in  the  flight  of  the  British 
army  from  Corunna,  and  with  the  latter  at  St.  Se- 
bastian's, at  the  battle  of  Vittoria,  and  on  various 
other  distinguished  occasions. 

His  wife,  a  very  fine  young  woman,  who,  with 
another  lady,  had  corar  to  the  wharf  to  receive  him, 
joined  us,  and  with  this  pleasant  little  party,  we  en- 
tered Quebec. 

The  first  street  of  the  lower  town,  along  which 
we  passed,  came  to  an  abrupt  termination,  the  last 
house  standing  at  the  foot  of  the  precipice,  when, 
turning  suddenly  to  the  right,  into  a  str||t,  one  of 
whose  sides  was  overhung  by  the  fro^i^ng  rock,  we 
soon  cam«  to  a  foot  passage  of  stairs,  made  of  plank, 


:i! 


:  m 


•^' 


216     TOUR  BETWBEH  HARTrORD  AND  a^^EBEC. 

very  steep  and  high,  and  furnished  with  iron  rail- 
ings ;  this  passage  terminated  in  Mountain  street,  as 
it  is  called,  from  the  steepness  of  the  ascent.  It  is 
the  only  passage  from  this  side  into  the  upper  town, 
and  it  was  by  no  means  an  easy  task  to  ascend  it, 
even  on  a  good  foot  pavement. 

In  the  mean  time,  we  admired  the  strength  and 
agility  of  the  little  Canadian  horses,  which,  with 
heavily  loaded  carts  at  their  heels,  perseveringly 
scramble  up  this  arduous  ascent,  and  with  still 
greater  care  and  firmness,  sustain  their  ponderous 
vehicles  when  descending,  and  prevent  them  from 
hurrying  themselves'  and  their  burdens,  headlong, 
down  the  steep. 

The  Castle  of  St.  Louis,  (literally  a  castle  in  the 
air,)  was  now  seen  immediately  above  our  heads,  on 
the  left,  at  the  distance  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet. 
It  is  completely  on  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  which 
overhangs  the  lower  town,  and  from  its  dangerous 
pre-eminence,  appears  ready  to  participate  in  the 
destruction  which  it  seems  threatening  to  id!  below. 

We  now  passed  the  grand  Prescot  Gat6,  under 
ponderous  arches  of  stone,  of  great  thickness  and 
weight,  and  entered  the  upper  town. 

The  impression  of  every  thing  was  completely 
foreign  from  any  thing  that  we  see  in  the  United 
States.  Buildings  of  wood,  and  even  of  bHck,  are 
almost  entirely  unknown.  Stdne,  either  rough  from 
the  quarry,  or  covered  with  white  cement,  or  hewn 
according  to  the  taste  and  condition  of  the  proprie* 


# 


TOUll  BETWKEN  UA»TFOHD  AND  QUEBEC.    2\^ 


stle  in  the 
r  heads,  on 
d  fifty  feet, 
(ice,  which 
dangerous 
late  in  the 
nil  below, 
iate,  under 
ickness  and 


tor,  is  almost  the  only  material  lor  building ;  roofs, 
in  many  instances,  *ind  generally  on  the  better  sort 
of  buildings,  glittering  with  tin  plate,  with  which 
they  are  neatly  covered ;  and  turrets  and  steeples, 
pouring  a  flood  of  light  from  the  same  substance  : 
these  are  among  the  first  things  that  strike  the  eyes 
of  a  stranger  entering  the  city  of  Quebec. 

If  from  the  United  States,  he  sees  a  new  popula* 
tion,  and,  to  a  great  extent,  a  completely  foreign 
people,  with  French  faces  and  French  costume ; 
the  French  language  salutes  his  ear,  as  the  common 
tongue  of  the  streets  and  shops  :  in  short,  he  per^ 
ceives  that  even  in  the  very  capital,  there  is  only  a 
sprinkling  of  English  population ;  it  is  still  a  French 
city ;  and  the  Cathedral,  the  extensive  College  of 
the  Jesuits,  now  used  for  barracks,  and  most  of  the 
public  buildings  and  private  houses,  are  French. 
He  sees  troops  mingled,  here  and  there,  with  the 
citizens ;  he  perceives  the  British  uniform,  and  the 
German  in  the  British  service,  which  remind  him 
that  the  country  has  masters  different  from  the  mass 
of  its  population,  and  although  the  military  are,  ob- 
viously, not  subjects  of  terror  to  the  citizens,  the 
first  impression  borders  on  melancholy,  when  we 
see  these  memorials  of  an  empire  fallen,  and  of  an 
empire  risen  in  its  stead.    Sixty  years  have  done 
little  towards  obliterating  the  Gallic  features  of  tlie 
country,  and  with  a  pleasure  very  rarely  experien* 
ced,  in  similar  cases,  we  involuntarily  revolve  in  eur 


:ii 


■S-- 


218  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

minds,  here  \$  a  country  conquered,  although  not 
epfirested' 

Trumpets,  and  bugles,  and  French  horns  now 
startle  us  with  a  sudden  burst  of  martial  music,  and 
we  can  hardly  believe  that  we  are  not  arrived  in  a 
fortified  town  of  Europe* 


It  was  a  fine  morning,  (October  7th,)  and,  as  we 
were  about  to  avail  ourselves  of  this  favourable 
weather,  to  visit  some  parts  of  the  environs  of  Que- 
bee,  I  will  first  describe  our  carriage,  which  was 


THE  CANADIAN  CALASH. 

This  is  not  unlike  an  American  chaise  or  gig,  but 
is  built  much  stouter,  .and  wither  without  a  top;  the 
horse  is  much  farther  from  the  body  of  the  carriage, 
and  this  allows  room  for  a  driver,  whose  seat  rests 
on  the  front  or  foot  board,  of  that  part  of  the  vehi- 
cle in  which  we  ride  ;  this  foot  board,  after  sloping, 
in  the  usual  manner,  then  rises  perpendicularly,  to 
such  a  height  as  to  sustain  the  seat ;  high  sides  are 
iriso  furnished  to  the  part  where  the  feet  rest  in  a 
common  chaise,  and  thus  children  and  baggage  are 
secured  from*  falling  out.  The  ca'ash  carries  two 
grown  persons  on  the  seat  within,  besides  the  driver, 
who  is  often  a  man ;  his  seat,  and  the  board  which  sup- 
(  ^ns  it  fall,  by  means  of  hinges,  when  the  passengers 
are  to  get  in,  and  the  board  and  seat  are  then  hook^ 


Ugh  not 

ms  now 
isic,  and 
ved  in  a 


nd,  as  we 
avourable 
s  of  Que- 
sh  was 


or  gig,  but 
atop;  the 

le  carriage, 
seat  rests 

>f  the  vehi- 

ter  sloping, 
cularly,  to 
I  sides  are 
Bt  rest  in  a 

laggage  *'f® 
carries  two 

8  the  driver, 

which  sup- 


then  hook* 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFOBD  AND  QUEBEC.   21$ 

ed  up  again  to  their  place,  when  the  driver  mounts. 
In  such  a  machine,  which  is  the  most  common  vehi- 
cle of  the  country,  and  is  sometimes,  as  in  the  pre- 
sent instance,  made  clumsily  handsome,  we  made 
our  first  excursion  from  Quebec. 

Our  driver  was  Michael  Gouvan,  a  very  intelli- 
gent and  obliging  young  man,  a  French  Canadian, 
who  spoke  both  English  and  French ;  and  his  horse, 
(an  iron  grey,)  was  one  of  that  small,  but  hardy 
breed,  which  being,  in  this  country,  left  in  their 
natural  state,  are  extremely  stout  aud  courageous, 
and  carry  the  heavy  calash,  and  three  men,  appa- 
rently with  more  ease,  than  our  horses  draw  our 
chaises,  and  two  grown  persons. 

EXCURSION  TO  BEAUPORT  AND  MONTMORENCF. 

I  have  already  observed  that  it  was  a  very  fine 
morning  ;  the  temperature  was  jnild,  and  the  skies 
bright,  with  a  balmy  softness  in  the  atmosphere,  ac- 
companied by  a  slight  haziness ;  it  is  exactly  like 
our  Indian  summer,  and  indeed,  they  here  call  this 
kind  of  weather  by  the  same  name  ;  we  could  not 
have  had  a  more  acceptable  time  for  our  little  jour- 
ney of  nine  miles,  to  the  falls  of  Montmorenci. 

We  passed  out  at  the  gate  St.  John,  on  the  north 
western  side  of  the  town  ;  it  stands  at  the  head  of 
the  street  of  the  same  name,  and  leads  to  a  very  ex" 
tensive  and  populous  suburb,  situated  entirely  with- 
out the  walls.    This  suburb  exhibits  many  new  8b4, 


i%% 


r; 


','V 


'■■'PI 


ill 


•i  'l\ 


220  TOUR  BITWEKN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


\ 


good  buildings,  and  appears  modern.  We  soon 
reached  the  beautiful  meadows,  north-east  of  Que< 
bee,  through  which  flows  the  river  Charles.  On 
our  left,  was  an  extensive  nunnery,  quite  by  itself, 
in  the  fields ;  it  appears  to  be  the  same  described  by 
Charleroix,  nearly  a  century  ago,  under  the  name 
of  the  hospital. 

For  four  miles,  we  passed  through  some  of  the 
most  beautiful  meadows  which  I  have  ever  seen ;  they 
were  neatly  divided  into  small  enclosures,  by  stakes 
driven  into  the  ground,  and  secured  at  top,  by  a 
rail,  fastened  with  withes ;  the  meadows  were  cover- 
ed with  thriving  cattle :  they  were  still  rich  in  deep 
verdure,  and  would  have  adorned  the  banks  of  the 
Connecticut,  or  of  the  Thames.  The  road  through 
them,  was  much  cut  up  by  wheels,  as  this  is  a  great 
thorough-fare  into  Quebec,  and  the  land  is  natural- 
ly moist  and  rich.  Houses  were  scattered  here  and 
there,  upon  the  meadows,  and  when  we  began  to 
ascend  the  ruing  ground,  we  entered  the  extensive 
village  of  Beauport. 

This  village,  consisting  of  sixty  or  seventy  hous- 
es, is  built  principally  on  one  street,  of  four  or 
five  miles  in  length,  and  extends  quite  to  the  river 
Montmorenci ;  it  is  one  of  those,  which  I  mention- 
ed as  making  so  briUiant  an  appearance  from  the 
bay  of  Quebec.  The  farms  and  garden  grounds  of 
this  village  are  **  all  in  a  flourishmg  state,  and  the 
orchards,  and  occasional  clumps  of  trees,  combine 
ta  lender  it  one  of  tlie  pleasantest  roads  in  the  envi* 


Le  of  the 

sen;  they 

by  stakes 

»p,  by  a 

)re  cover- 

h  in  deep 

iks  of  the 

td  through 
is  a  great 

is  natural- 

1  here  and 
began  to 
extensive 

enty  hous- 
of  four  or 
)  the  river 
I  mention* 
from  the 

grounds  of 
ite,  and  the 
B8,  combine 

in  the  envi- 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTyOlLD  AND  QUEBEC.     22rl 

Fons  of  Quebec.    This  village  is  the  residence  of 
many  families  of  respectability."* 

The  houses  are  generally  of  stone,  covered  with 
a  cement,  and  white  washed,  roof  and  all ;  this  gives 
them  a  very  neat  appearance,  and  makes  them  look 
very  brilliant,  even  at  a  considerable  distance ;  com- 
monly they  are  of  one  story,  sometime.?  of  two,  and 
inside  they  appeared  very  comfortable.  The  win- 
dows, as  is  generally  the  fact  in  the  French  houses, 
are  divided,  up  and  down,  in  the  middle,  and  swing, 
tike  doors  on  hinges. 

There  is  in  this  village,  a  large  and  showy  church, 
with  three  steeples,  and,  on  entering  it,  we  found 
solitary  individuals  at  their  private  devotions,  cross- 
ing themselves  with  holy  water,  and  silently  moving 
their  lips.  This  church  contained  a  number  of 
pictures,  and  they  were  ornamenting  its  ceiling  with 
golden  roses. 

Our  driver  left  his  calash,  went  into  the  church, 
fell  on  his  knees,  and  said  hH  prayers  with  much 
apparent  seriousneiis.  *^ 

The  Montmorenci  is  a  sm^ll,  but  rapid  river, 
rolling  tumultuously,  over  a  very  rocky  bottom,  and 
just  above  the  falls,  is  considerably  smaller  than  the 
Housatonuck,  at  the  falls  of  Salisbury,  in  Connecti- 
cut. 

Leaving  our  calash  and  driver  on  the  high  hill, 
which  forms  the^  western  bank  of  the  river,  we  cross- 
ed a  bridge,  and  passed  down  the  eastern  side  of 
^  Montmorenci,  which  is  also  very  high  groundf 

^Bouchette. 


M 


_ifi 


i 


..>i^i 


222    TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORB  AMD  ^VBBEC. 


■¥ 


tod,  as  we  approach  the  St.  Lawrence,  it  rises,  so 
as  to  be  even  still  higher  than  the  opposite  shore. 
From  this  elevation^  the  beautiful  islond  of  Orleans, 
which  is  twenty  miles  long,  and  dve  wide^  was  in 
full  view  before  us.  It  is  well  cultivated,  contains 
about  four  thousand^  inhabitants,  and,  next  to  Mont- 
real, is  the  most  important  island  in  the  river.  On 
the  side  contiguous  to  where  we  were,  it  slopes  to 
the  water's  edge,  and  terminates  in  a  handsome 
beach  of  sand.  A  similar  beach,  corresponds  to 
it,  on  the  main ;  the  ship  channel  is  on  the  other 
side  of  the  island. 

As  we  passed  along  through  the  fields,  we  found 
a  man  and  boy  ploughing.  The  oxen  were  yoked, 
not  as  with  us,  by  the  shoulders  and  neck,  but  by 
the  horns.  A  kind  of  yoke  lay  upon  their  necks, 
and  was  fastened,  by  leather  straps,  to  the  horns ; 
but  no  bow,  or  other  contrivance,  passed  around  the 
neck  ;  thus  the  oxen  draw  entirely  by  their  horns ; 
and  I  am  told  that  this  French  farmers  cannot  be  in- 
duced to  adopt  our  method,  although  it  is  obvious 
that  the  animal  is  thus  sadly  embarrassed,  and  can 
exert  very  little  power.  I  saw,  however,  one  yoke 
in  another  field,  harnessed  in  our  way. 


GEOLOGY. 


There  is  yerj  little  variety  in  the  Geology  be- 
tween Quebec  and  Montmorenci.    After  leaviog 


*Boucbett«, 


I'OUA  BETWBCN  RARTrORB  AND  ^UUBUC.     293 


riseSf  bo 

Le  shore. 

Orleans, 

I,  was  in 

contains 
t  to  Mont- 
ver.  On 
,  slopes  to 
handsome 
isponds  to 

the  other 

J,  we  found 
vere  yoked, 
ick,  but  by 
heir  necks, 
the  horns; 
around  the 
their  horns; 
[annot  be  in- 
it  is  obvious 
id,  and  can 
[r,  one  yoke 


tbe  city,  the  first  objects  that  strike  the  eye,  where 
the  green  slopes  of  the  hills  have  been  excavated, 
ill  quarrying,  are  numerous  black  rocks,  very  regu- 
larly stratified,  and  looking  almost  like  great  beds  of 
coal.    These  rocks,  which  prevail  through  the  vil- 
lage of  Beauport,  are  black  fetid  limestone,  in  stra- 
ta nearly  horizontal,  and  presenting  in  t!ie  section 
of  the  hills,  a  remarkable  regularity,  almost  archi- 
tectural.    The  strata,  being  divided  by  seams,  both 
horizontal  and  vertical,  look  as  if  tliey  had  been  laid 
up  by  the  skill  of  a  mason.     The  houses  in  Beau- 
port,  are  generally  built  of  this  stono,  and  the  peo- 
ple burn  it  into  lime  at  their  very  doors.    Its  great 
regularity,  and  the  ease  with  which  it  divides,  must 
make  it  an  excellent  building  stone  ;  while  the  com- 
bustible substance  v/hich  it  contains,  will  also  aid, 
very  materially,  in  burning   it  into   quick  lime. — 
These  strata  appear  to  be  secondary  lime  stone. 

The  strata,  over  which  the  Montmorenci  falls, 
seem  to  be,  (for  I  could  not  get  near  enough  to  be 
quite  certain,)  of  the  same  description.  I  am  fa- 
voured by  Dr.  John  I.  Bigsby,  of  the  Medical  staff 
ofthe  British  army  in  Canada,  with  the  following 
facts,  as  to  the  **  succession  of  the  strata  a  few  yards 
above  the  bridge,  at  the  falls  of  Montmorenci,  on 
the  west  side  ofthe  river  :" 

"  The  lowest  visible  rocks,  rising  six  or  eight  feet 
from  the  bed  ofthe  river,  are  dough  shaped  mounds 
of  granite,  vertical,  with  a  south-west  direction,  with 
many  irregular  quartz  veins,  half  a  foot  thick.    On 


,.  «■• 


^;^ 


I' 


§0 


224    TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTl'OKD  AND  QUEBEC. 

it,  lies  a  perfectly  horizontal  sand  stone,  so  coarse 
as  to  resemble  conglomerate,  (I  suspect  this  sand 
stone  is  a  coarse  grey  wacke.)  It  is  four  feet  thick, 
and  weathered  red  and  white.  Upon  this  rests  light 
hair  brown,  highly  crystalline  lime-stone,  very  fetid, 
full  of  shells,  vegetable  filaments,  massive  blende, 
and  a  mineral,  like  brown  spar.  This  gradually  be- 
comes dull,  less  crystalline,  and  at  length,  at  the 
top  of  the  bank,  is  nearly  a  common  blue  lime 
(stone,)  with  a  conchoidal  fracture,  and  still  here 
and  there  containing  small  crystals  of  carbonates. 
The  whole  height  here,  is  perhaps,  forty  feet." 

As  we  walked  along  upon  the  eastern  bank  of  the 
Montmorenci,  and  approached  the  St.  Lawrence, 
we  found  ourselves  on  the  verge  of  a  precipice,  of 
three  hundred  feet  in  height :  this  terminates  at  the 
St.  Lawrence,  or  very  near  it,  in  an  almost  perpen- 
dicular promontory,  down  which,  with  some  diffi- 
culty, we  wound  our  way  to  the  bed  of  the  great 
river.  The  strata  of  rock  here,  run  parallel  to  the 
St  .Lawrence,  and  at  right  angles  to  the  Montmo- 
r^ci ;  as  these  strata  are  very  soft,  and  easily  de- 
composed and  disintegrated,  the  Montmorenci, 
which  rolls  its  rapid  and  turbulent  waters  across 
them,  has  evidently,  by  long  continued  attrition, 
.  worn  them  away,  so  that  in  the  bed  of  tliis  small 
river,  at  the  falls,  these  rocks  have  receded  about 
one  sixtli  of  a  mile  from  the  St.  Lawrence. 


TOUB  BETWEEN  HARTFOR0  AND  QUEBEC.  225 


0  coarse 
his  sand 
eet  thick, 
rests  light 
^ery  fetid, 
re  blende, 
dually  be- 
rth, at  the 
blue  lime 
,  still  here 
carbonates. 

feet." 
bank  of  the 
Lawrence, 
)recipice,  of 
nates  at  the 
»ost  perpen- 
i  some  diffi- 
»f  the  great 
irallel  to  the 
he  Montmo- 
]d  easily  de- 
ontmorenci, 
aters  across 
led  attrition, 
>f  tliis  small 
•ceded  about 
lee. 


THE  FALLS  OF  MONTMORENCl. 

The  destructive  action  of  the  river  itself,  upon 
the  rocks  which  form  its  bed,  and  its  banks,  has 
produced  in  the  long  course  of  time,  a  deep  bay,  or 
indentation,  shaped   nearly  like  a  parabola,  or  a 
horse-shoe  magnet ;  it  recedes  from  two  hundred 
and  eighty,  to  three  hundred  yards,*  from  the  St. 
Lawrence,  and  its  almost  perpendicular  banks,  are 
in  different  places,  from  two  to  three  hundred  feet 
high  ;  they  are  composed  apparently,  of  fetid  lime 
stone,  very  much  decomposed,  which,  on  the  eastern 
side,  resembles  extremely  a  fine  grained  slate,  or 
sand  stone.     The  crumbled*^'and  broken  parts,  be- 
come fetid  by  friction  or  percussion.     At  the  upper 
end  of  this  bay,  the  Montmorenci,  after  a  gentle  pre- 
vious declivity,  which  greatly  increases  its   veloci- 
ty, takes  its  stupendous  leap  of  two  hundred  and 

fortyf  feet,  into  a  chasm  among  the  rocks,  where  it 
boils  and  foams  in  a  natural  rocky  basin,  from  which, 
after  its  force  is  in  some  measure  exhausted  in  its 
own  whirlpools  and  eddies,  it  flows  away  in  a  gentle 
stream,  towards  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  fall  is  near- 

^Boiichette. 
i  It  is  astonishing  that  Cliarlevoix  states  the  fall  of  Montnio- 
Irenci  as  being  thirty  feet  wide,  and  only  forty  high.     I  cannot  but 
Ithink  that  there  .  .lust  have  been  a  typographical  error  in  the 
|oinission  of  two  hiindredi  before  forty,  especially,  as  Charlevoix 
atesthe  height  of  the  Niagara  falls  very  nearly  as  they  are  now 
estimated.    It  is  not  probable  that  a  century  has  made  much  dif- 
prsHce  with  either. 

20 


m 


\) 

i 


0,-i 


ir  •«.*«. 


226 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


"m 


ly  perpendicular,  and  appears  not  to  deviate  more 
than  three  or  four  degrees  from  it.  This  deviation 
is  caused  by  the  ledges  of  rock  below,  and  is  just 
sufficient  to  break  the  water  completely  into  foam 
and  spray.  The  width  of  the  stream,  at  the  mo- 
ment of  its  fall,  is  apparently,  fifty  or  sixty  feet ;  it 
may  bo  seventy  when  the  river  is  swollen  by  rains, 
or  by  the  melted  snows. 

The  effect  on  the  beholder  is  most  delightful. 
The  river,  at  some  distance,  seems  suspended  in 
the  eii*,  in  a  sheet  of  billowy  foam,*  and,  contrast- 
ed, as  it  is,  with  the  black  frowning  abyss,  into  which 
it  falls,  it  is  an  object  of  the  highest  interest. 

As  we  approacHed  nearer  to  its  foot,  the  impres- 
sions of  grandeur  and  sublimity  were,  in  the  most 
perfect  manner  imaginable,  blended  with  those  of 
extreme  beauty. 

This  river  is  of  so  considerable  magnitude,  that, 
precipitated  as  it  is,  from  this  amazing  height,  the 
thundering  noise,  and  mighty  rush  of  waters,  and 
the  never  ceasing  wind  and  rain,  produced  by  the 
fall,  powerfully  arrest  the  attention  :  the  spectator 
stands  in  profound  awe,  mingled  with  delight,  espe- 
cially when  he  contrasts. the  magnitude  of  the  fall, 
with  that  of  a  villa,  on  the  edge  of  the  dark  preci- 
pices of  frowning  rcftk,  which  form  the  western  i 
bank,  and  with  the  casual  spectators,  looking  dowo 


igi 


*  It  has  been  compared  to  a  white  ribbon,  suspeoded  in  the  airi 
\h\n  comparison  does  justice  to  the  delicacy  >  but  oot  to  the  gran  | 
deur  of  this  cataract. 


TOUR  BETWEEN  dARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.     2St7 

from  the  same  elevation.  But,  these  impressions 
are  not  sufficient  to  overpower  the  delic&te  beauty 
of  this  cataract.  The  sheet  of  foam,  which  breaks 
over  the  ridge,  is  more  and  more  divided,  as  it  is 
dashed  against  the  successive  layers  of  rock,  which 
it  almost  completely  veils  from  view  ;  the  spray  be- 
comes very  delicate  and  abundant,  from  top  to  bot- 
tom, hanging  over,  and  revolving  around  the  torrent, 
till  it  becomes  lighter  and  more  evanescent,  than 
the  whitest  fleecy  clouds  of  summer,  |han  the  finest 
atte  I'  •  I  web,  than  the  lightest  gossamer,  consti- 
tuting t'  most  airy  and  sumptuous  drapery,  that 
can  be  imagined.  Yet,  like  the  drapery  of  some  of 
the  Grecian  statues,  which,  while  it  veils,  exhibits 
more  forcibly,  the  form  beneath,  this  does  not  hide, 
kt  exalts  the  effect  produced  by  this  noble  cat- 
aract. 

The  rain-bow  we  saw  in  great  perfection ;  bow 
within  bow,  and  (what  I  never  saw  elsewhere,  so 
perfectly,)  as  I  advanced  into  the  spray,  the  bow 
became  complete,  myself  being  a  part  of  its  circum- 
ference, and  its  transcendent  glories  moving  with 
every  change  of  position.  This  beautiful  and  splen- 
did sight  was  to  be  enjoyed  only  by  advancing  quite 
into  the  shower  of  spray  ;*  as  if,  in  the  language 
of  ancient  poetry,  and  fable,  the  genii  of  the  place, 
pleased  with  the  beholder's  near  approach  to 
the  seat  of  their  empire^  decked  the  devotee  with  the 

*  Which  was  very  copious,  and,  (if  not  averted  by  an  uoibjeW 
la,)  would  soon  wet  Ibe  observer  (brougb  his  clothes. 


» 


f;- 


IP 


^m 


i 


ii 


f'i' 


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# 


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In 


J" 


•K5f; 


228      TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORB  AND  at^EBEC. 

appropriate  robes  of  the  cataract,  the  vestal  veil  of 
jfleecy  spray,  and  the  heavenly  splendors  of  the  bow. 

The  falls  of  Montmorenci  have  been  often  de- 
scribed, and  wc  had  obtained  tolerably  definite  and 
correct  ideas  of  them,  but  their  entire  impression 
on  us  was  beyond  our  expectations. 

Those  who  visit  this  place  in  the  winter,  see  one 
fine  Cfsature  added  to  the  scene,  although  they  may 
loser  iome  others.  The  spray  freezes,  and  forms  a 
regular  conoi  of  sometimes  one  hundred  feet  in 
height,  and  standing  immediately  at  the  bottom  of 
the  cataract.  It  is  even  said,  that  some  are  har- 
dy enough  to  clamber  up  this  icy  tower.  Captain 
'  informs  us  that  he  has  performed  this  giddy 

feat. 

PRINT,  NO.  7. 

r 

In  this  view,  on  the  right,  are  seen  the  rocky  stra^ 
ta,  rising  from  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  presenting 
their  broken  edges ;  higher  up,  the  precipice  is  cov- 
ered with  sand,  gravel,  and  ruins  of  the  rocks,  ^nd 
with  some  poor  verdure,  and  stinted  shrubs.  This 
high  bank,  here  terminating  abruptly  on  the  great 
river,  is  continued  around  to  the  fall,  forming  the 
right  side  of  the  great  curve,  in  the  center  of  which, 
appears  the  cataract.  In  the  picture,  the  spray  is 
but  partially  represented,  and  is  less  copious,  and 
rises  to  a  less  considerable  height^  than  in  tiie  scene 
itself.  Just  where  the  river  commences  its  leap. 
sdrae  rocks  are  seen,  breaking  tlie  current. 


•"ili^- 


■1*  '■.. 


BEC. 

il  veil  of 
the  bow. 
often  de- 
finite and 
upression 

r,  see  one 
they  may 
id  forms  a 
ed   feet  in 

bottom  of 
B  are  har- 
.     Captain 

this  giddy 


rocky  stra- 
presenting 
pice  is  cov- 
rocks,  ^nd 
kbs.    This 
n  the  great 
brming  the 
of  which, 
\ie  spray  is 
ipioits,  and 
tiie  scene 
;es  its  leap; 
nt. 


.-^«Sf' 


.^'.:>. 


'i 


1; 

% 

r^iPBriml 

Sd 

^^HmHsMI 

pi 

^9H 

1 

#: 


r     ^- 


i^ 


^jii 


i438      TOUit  BETWEtM^WAJlTFOHl)   ANT)  (^t  K7?#a 

apj)ro}uiatt'  roWs  of  the  calafoct,  llift  vt?sl:«* 
fleecy  spray,  ami  the  hcavenfyspJondorsol'iiH 

The  falls  of  Aloritiaorenci    have  l)cen   of 
scribed,  and  w?  had  obtained  tolerably  de(uj»» 
vsonecv  ideas  o!   jli^iwi,    but  their  entire  inipr 
on  us  was  bevonci  our  expectations. 

Those  who  viyit  tiiis  place  in  the  winter,  f'Ve  .^y^*? 
tine  feature  addeij  to  tlie  scene,  ahhoush  th*:-         • 
los^lpbme  .    'ci';.     The  spray  free/es,  and  i«'.  • 
ieguJar  roiii^^jp|i/  sometia)es  one  hundred   kt.i 
height,  nnd  slantlinj;  itnmetiiately  at  the  hotion?  ■> 
the  cataract.     It  is  aven  said,  that  some  are.  h'-' 
tiy  .enough  to  elainber  up   this  i(W  tower.     (.';*jn;4ifi 
informs  ws,  tbat  lie  lias  performed  this  gid'^v 


PRINT,  NO.  7. 

in  this  viewj  on  the  rlalu,  are  seen  tlie  roc'fv  xt 
fa,  rising  frora  the  St.  Lawrence,   and   prese})^ 
their  broken  edp'^;  higher  np,  the  precipice  iscer- 
uredN'.With  {<mdf  gravel,  anri  ruins  of  the   rocks,  mi 

^ji^  wllh  'Icrrne  poor  verdure,  and  stinted  shrubs.     T 
hij;h  bank,  ii ere  tarminaiina;' abruptly  on  the  great 
viviST,  is   ooatianeiV  around  to  the  falj,  forndiiM;  x\m 

.'  right  side  oflbe  g|;«H\^^^^) ^"  '^^<^  center  of  whirr 
appew^Ac  catai^ct;  In  the  picture,  the  spray 
bti^^^tipkliy  represented,  and  is  less  copioiis,  angi 
vib^isiib  a  Jes»'coiT^iderabIehci^ht^th?»'||p|^fcn<; 
Itself.  Just  where  the  river  commences  its  leap 
senK*  jovks  ar*;^  seen,  braakiag  th«  ciiir- 


■an-' 


* 


*^ 


*  '■■ 


>l-.  ■  ,^. 


■ti..y 


Itfi-t 


of  I 

air.: 

id  ('. 

e  arc  b 
.1  this  gj^'*^" 


rocky  «i  i 

pice  is<;i 
rocks,  8^^ 

till  the  gvftiu 

M*  of  wUif'^ 
(the  s\>vny  • 


t; 


'A' 

11-  P 


h        !il 


,      .    .1,      111 


.  l' 


fl 


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.■^•^Ilr'*^- 


■HMb'"* 


:'t%   ■•, 


V'-'^i"^ 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HAmTFORD  AND  <iUEBEC.      229 

Immediately  in  front,  nearest  to  the  observer,  and 
just  where  some  spectators  are  placed,  the  fall  is 
seen  with  great  advantage;  perhaps,  it  is   moire 
beautiful  there,  than  any  where  else  ;  the  views  of 
it  are,  however,  very  fine  at  every  position,  as  we 
advance  towards  it,  (although  the  impending  banks 
of  ruinous  and  decomposed  rock,  look  rather  alarm- 
ing, as  we  pass  along.)     At  the  foot  of  the  cataract, 
on  the  right,  we  perceive  a  projection  of  rock,  half 
veiling  the  bottom,  of  the  fall  from  view  ;  tliis  rock 
is  constantly  wet  and  slippery,  with  the  spray,  and 
the  observer  scrambles  up  its  sides,  with  some  diffi- 
culty, but,  when  arrived  there,  he  is  fully  compen- 
sated by  the  grandeur  of  the  scene ;  if  he  advance 
over  the  other  declivity  of  the  rock,  the  bow  attends 
his  every^  step,  and,  at  some  places,  two  or  three 
concentric  bows  are  seen.     If  willing  to  be  thor- 
oughly wet,  and  possessed  of  a  little  of  the  spirit  of 
adventure,  he  may,  by  persevering  .in  his  advances 
even  gain  a  peep  behind  the  cataract.     On  the  left, 
is  seen  the  other  side  of  the  bay  ;  it  is  composed  of 
perpendicular  ledges  of  black  stratified  rock ;  (I 
presume  it  is  the  same  fetid  lime  stone,  which  con- 
stitutes the  basis  of  Beauport,)  and,  on  its  summit, 
a  little  removed  from  the  edge,  is  a  handsome  villa. 
Almost  exactly  on  the  edgej  and  resembling  a  low 
fence,  is  seen  an  aqueduct,  which  diverts  a  part  of 
the  river,  just  above  the  fall,  and  conducts  it  to  a 
saw  mill  at  the  bottom  of  the  bank.    The  tranquil 
basin,  below  the  fall,  at  Iqifrwatef^ presents  to  vieW^ 

20*      "^Itf^MH..  "■  ■  ■'•■'/■''. 


i 


§.i 


I: 


1 13 


1 '-'!'' 


i  ; 


-  m 

m 


'."'i 

;.iii 


230     TOUR  BCTWEEM  UARTFORI)  AND  qi/KBEC. 

portions  of  the  rocky  strata,  which  form  its  bed,  and 
it  is  then  fordable,  and  also  for  some  time,  during 
th^  latter  part  of  the  ebb,  and  the  beginning  of  the 
ilovt  of  the  tide. 


i 


SAW  MILLS  AND  LUMBER. 

Just  below  the  falls,  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Montmorenci  at  its  confluence  with  the  St.  Law- 
rence, is  the  great  establishment  of  Mr.  Patterson, 
for  sawing  lumber.  The  mills,  which  are  probably 
as  extensive  as  any  in  the  world,  are  fed  by  a 
stream,  directed  (as  already  mentioned  in  the  de- 
scription of  print  7,)  from  the  Montmorenci,  just 
above  the  falls.  It  is  conducted  along,  on  the  high 
bank,  in  a  large  artificial  channel,  of  plank  and  tim- 
ber, till,  rushing  down  the  inclined  plane,  formed  by 
the  great  natural  descent  of  the  hill,  it  acquires  a 
prodigious  velocity,  and,  falling  upon  the  water 
wheels,  in  the  mill,  at  the  bottom  of  the  bdnk,  it 
imparts  an  impulse,  sufficiently  powerful,  to'  turn  the 
machinery  of  a  vast  establishment,  and  performs  a 
very  great  amount  of  labour.  Nor  does  it  injure 
the  cataract,  as  Lieuteitant  Hall,  in  his  travels,  sup- 
poses it  would  ;  for,  it  is  no  more  missed  from  the 
stream  of  the  Montmorenci,  than  a  pebble  would 
be  from  its  banks. 

Contiguous  to  these  mills,  is  a  vast  deposit  of 
lu.ipber ;  much  of  it  b  afloat,  and  is  guarded  from 


X: 


\. 


a,' 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  <IUIBE0«      231 

floating  quite  away,  by  wharves  and  pillars,  and  by 
very  extensive  artificial  dams,  running  out  a  great 
way  into  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  forming  a  large  ba- 
sin. I  cannot  say  with  confidence,  how  many  acres 
it  appeared  to  cover ;  my  elevation  on  the  contiguous 
bank,  was  so  great,  that  I  might  be  much  deceived ; 
but  it  served,  together  with  the  deposits  which  we 
had  seen  at  the  Chaudiere,  at  Sillery,  in  Wolfe's 
eove,  and  other  places,  to  give  us  a  strong  impres- 
sion of  the  magnitude  of  the  Canadian  lumber  trade; 
it  is,  in  fact,  the  principal  business  of  the  country  ; 
and  the  ships  waiting  to  receive  it,  are  very  nume- 
rous. A  good  deal  of  this  lumber,  as  we  were  as- 
sured, comes  from  Vermont,  and  is  rafted  down 
Lake  Champlain,  and  through  the  rivers  Sorel  and 
St.  Lawjrence. 

To  us,  who  had  never  seen  any  thing  to  compare 
with  the  exhibition  of  lumber,  on  the  waters  around 
Quebec,  this  sight,  and  the  other  similar  ones,  ap- 
peared very  remarkable.  The  number,  and  size  of 
the  ships,  also,  that  are  waiting  to  receive  it,  far  ex- 
ceeded our  expectations,  and  evinced,  that,  if  Great 
Britain  cannot  supply  herself  with  lumber,  on  good 
terms,  from  any  other  source,  this  colony  must,  for 
this  reason  alone,  be  very  important  to  her ;  and) 
indeed,  it  has  obviously  this  great  advantage,  as  a 
source  of  supply,  that  it  is,  in  a  great  measure,  in- 
dependent of  the  contingency  of  war. 

As  an  article  of  trade,  however,  I  am  aware  that 
lumber,  from  its  great  bulk^  aad  low  value,  makes  ti 


.-err^lj?" 


lilt 


III 


Mi 


n 


m 


■«^ 


"sfe- 


332    TOCR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  ((UUBEC. 


Mi 

:  It:       ,    t 


much  {p'eater  show,  than  a  commerce  in  many  com. 
modities,  which,  in  a  much  more  snug  way,  may 
imply  a  vastly  greater  amount  of  capital,  and  of 
profits. 

The  lumber  rafts  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  well  de- 
serve to  be  mentioned  among  the  curiosities  of  the 
river.  We  found  some  of  them  around  us  in  the 
morning,  as  we  wiere  coming  down  to  Quebec,  and 
were  amused  with  the  view  of  these  anomalous 
floating  communities.  Some  of  them  occupied 
thousands  of  square  feet  on  the  water,  and  exhibit- 
ed an  active,  grotesque  population,  busy  in  steering 
these  ponderous  misshapen  piles,  down  the  current 
of  tlie  river  ;  they  erect  huts  upon  them,  and  con- 
trive to  concentrate  upon  the  rafts,  the  few  and 
coarse  accommodations,  which  their  frugal  habits, 
and  their  tardy  inland  voyage  may  demand. 

We  did  not  expect  to  find  oppressively  hot  weath- 
er in  Canada,  so  late  as  the  7th  of  October,  but,  in 
clambering  the  precipices  about  the  falls  of  Mont- 
morenci,  we  experienced  a  degree  of  heat,  like  that 
of  the  middle  of  July. 


VIEW  OF  QUEBEC,  AND  OF  ITS  ENVIRONS,  FROM 

BEAUPORT.  .^.^-^ 

From  the  river  Montmorenci,  the  ground  gently 
descends  towards  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  towards 
Quebec,  but,  as  the  distance  is  considerable,  the  el- 
evation is  sufficient  to  aflTord  a  good  view  of  that 
city. 


•i^*i 


y  com- 

and  of 

pell  de- 
s  of  lite 
3  in  the 
bee,  and 
lomalous 
occupied 
exhibit- 
i  steering 
e  current 
and  con- 
few  and 
;al  habits, 

id. 

lOt  weath- 

ir,  but,  in 
iof  Mont- 

.,  like  that 


|s,  FROM 

^nd  gently 
towards 
lie,  the  el- 
\vr  of  that 


TOUR  BKTWBEN  HARTrORD  AND  aUCBBC.   23^ 

Approaching  it  by  water,  from  Montreal,  we  have 
only  a  glimpse  of  the  upper  town,  but,  from  the 
Beau  port  side,  we  see  it  perfectly.  Most  of  the 
upper  town  is  built  upon  a  side  hill,  sloping  rapidly 
to  the  north  and  east,  and  the  view  from  Beauport, 
gives  the  idea  of  a  firm  city,  of  considerable  r  agni- 
tude. 

The  roofs  and  spires,  covered  with  tin,  glittered 
to-day,  in  the  bright  meridian  sun.  The  towers  and 
turretted  iValls,  completely  encircle  the  upper  town, 
ahhough  they  exclude  the  lower ;  and  the  suburbs, 
now  become  almost  as  extensive  and  handsome,  as 
tlie  city  itself,  are  also  in  full  view,  with  a  conside- 
rable part  of  the  lower  town,  and  most  of  the  ships 
in  the  bay  and  river. 

The  opposite  shores  of  the  island  of  Orleans,  and 
of  Point  Levi,  with  the  numerous  farm  houses  and 
villages,  that  are  conspicuous  all  around,  and  the 
luxuriant  meadows,  intersected  by  the  Char^'^s.  ad- 
ded to  the  beauty  of  the  prospect. 

Indeed,  Quebec  and  its  environs,  present  as  mag- 
nificent scenery  as  can  well  be  imagined.  Towers 
and  spires — Walls  and  rocks — cascadeii  and  precipi- 
ces— swelling  hills,  and  luxuriant  vallies,  and  woody 
mountains — beautiful  tillages,  and  numberless  sol- 
itary villas,  and  white  cottages — with  grand  rivers, 
and  crowding  fleets,  are  all  united  to  delight  the 
spectator.  Such  scenes  would  be  esteemed  very 
fine  in  any  country. 


lib 


ni\ 


^ 


I    11. 


m 


-41 


• 


\ 


'W 


1^34     TOUR  BETWEEN   HARTFORD  ANR  (QUEBEC. 


I* 


!'  '^ 


1     ^■.; 


PillNT,  NO.  8. 

This  print,  although  the  scene  is  principally  the 
same,  does  not  exhibit  exactly  the  view,  from  Beau- 
port,  which  was  last  described.     The  observer  is 
not. in  Beauport,  but  is  standing  on  the  eastern  side 
bf  the  Montmorenci,  on  the  bank,  which  is  exhibit- 
ed on  the  right  of  print  7.   Immediately  before  him, 
is  the  saw  mill  of  Mr.  Patterson,  with  floating  lum- 
ber, and  a  ship,  waiting  to  receive  it.  "On  the  right, 
is  the  high  promontory,  situated  on  the  western  side 
of  the  Montmorenci,  and  constituting  the  counter 
part  to  that  exhibited  in  the  last  print ;  the  ship, 
and  saw  mill,  and  two  adventurers,  pn  the  top  of 
the  precipice,  give  some  idea  of  its  height.    From 
the  mill,  we  see  the  aqueduct  passing  along  the 
hill ;  after  it  begins  to  descend  from  the  heights,  it 
is  covered  on  the  top,  with  thick  plank,   strongly 
bound  by  timber,  to  prevent  the  water  from  over- 
flowing, for  the  stream  is  so  copious,  as  completely 
to  fill  this  hollow  box,  through  which  the  water  is 
hurried  with  a  frightful  velocity.     On  the  left,  is 
Point  Levi,  opposite  to  Quebec,  and  distant  from 
the  observer  five  or  six  miles  ;  at  the  foot  of  this 
promontry,  we  see  a  little  settlement,  a  port  in  minia- 
ture, and  numbers  of  ships  contiguous.    In  the  ex- 
treme distance,  are  the  hills  about  the  mouth  of  the. 
Chaudiere  river,  and  beyond  it;    they  are  froiUj 
twelve  to  fifteen,  and  even  twenty  miles  distant,  am 
are  situated  ovi  the  right  bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence 


r^r^.tCTS^ 


■^^M 


%U£BEC. 


rincipally  the 
,  from  Beau- 
3  observer  is 
I  eastern  side 
cli  is  exhibit- 
or before  him, 
floating  lum- 
'On  the  right, 
}  western  side 
the  counter 
[It ;  the  ship, 
?n  the  top  of 
eight.    From 
ing  along  the 
he  heights,  it 
ank,   strongly 
;er  from  over- 
as  completely 
h  the  water  is 
)n  the  left,  is 
d  distant  from 
B  foot  of  this 
I  port  in  minia- 
s.    In  the  ex- 
B  mouth  of  the- 
they  are  from 
lies  distant,  and] 
3t.  Lawrence 


4    T  a  V  R  a  E  "P W||i':  n  k  m^  v  om*  a  n^  r  q  c  r^.  iv  t,  ^^ 


it 


JK 


j»BlNT,  NO.  8. 

This  print,  aliho'ijijji  t^  scene  is  ^print'tp^iv 
same,  does  m)l  eNlul'it  ^jfferly  ilie  view,  fro-j  i  • 
port,  whicli  was  last   describerJ.     The  oh-r  \ 
not  in  Beauporf,  but  is  standing  on  the  eastr- 
fifths  Monlmonnici,  on  th«  bunk,  which  is  <:- 
fid  on  the  rig:iil  of  print  7.    f  inm»^viiate]y  bcfor 
is  the  saw  mill  of  Mi\  }*uttoiiiQn,  with  lloarin 
bcr,  and  n  ship,  waitinpr,  Jo  receive  it.  'On  ti;. 
is  the  hi;^^h  promontory^  siiuated  on  the  \\(;;^tit;i>, 
of  the  Montmorenci,  and  constituting   the   < 
part  to  that  exhibited   in  the  livst  print.j  ifu   " 
aiid  saw  mill,  and  two  adventurers, , on  tlirf 
die  precipice,  give  i?ome  idea  of  its  heigiMt 
die   njilJ,  we  see  lifO  aqueduct  passing  al  - 
lull  ;  after  it  begins  to  descend  from  the  hOi,; 
is  covered   on  thie  |op,  with'  thick   phmk, 
bound  by  tiirtber,  to  prevent  the  water  {x^;~' 
flowim;;,  for  iItk*  streo'n  is  so  copious,  as  cois 
to  6^'  this  hollow  box,. through   which  tiie 
hiimed  witli  a  friiiihtful  veiochv.     On  tli* 
Point  Levi,  opposite   to  Quebec,  and  diivM^ . 
the  observer  five  or  ^ix   miles  ;  at  the   fo**! 
promontry,we  see  a  Jdtle  settlement,  a  po* 
^trte,  and  numbers  of  ships  contiguousrf| 
treme  distance,  are  the  hills  about  the  mW 
Chaudioi'^  river,  and   l)eyond   it ;    thmf 
twelve  to^Sftccn,  anrl  even  twenty  miles 
are  sitiialed  o«^  the  right  hank  of  tJie  St  1  - 


H^fift- 


)b 


fee; 


Stott 


li 


befoi 

tlie   <> 
t^  lit* 

1   tllff 


,c 


'^    u; 


h«. 


iii^ 


lu- 
ll iVi'^ 


■^*' 


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# 


# 


■'i^h 


i^ 


„v?**" 


.*»■» 


-,'if 


^'■■ 


'x-m: 


TOOIl  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  ANfii^lTEBEC       23^ 


In  the  middle  of  the  view,  on  the  fight,  is  the  city 
of  Quebec,  exhibiting  a  part,  both  of  the  upper  and 
lower  town.  This  view  may  be  considered  as  be- 
ing, in  this  respect,  a  continuation  of  that,  exhibited 
in  prints  No.  5  and  6  ;  and,  as  beginning  nearly 
where  the  latter  leaves  off.  We  sec  the  upper  town, 
with  its  crowded  show  of  houses  and  spires,  and  with 
the  flag  and  telegraph  on  Cape  Diamond,^ surround- 
ed by  its  military  wall,  and  distant  four  or  five  miles  ^ 
the  wall  passes  along  upon  the  very  edge  of  the 
precipice  of  naked  black  rock.  Immediately  at  the 
foot  of  this  precipice,  is  a  continuation  of  the  lower 
town,  with  its  wharves,  ships,  and  warehouses,  and» 
on  its  extreme  right,  we  see  the  steep,,ascent  to  the 
palace  gate.  The  promontory,  on  the  right  of  the 
Montmorenci,  intercepts  the  view  of  Beauport,  and 
of  the  beautiful  slope  from  it  to  the  St.  Lawrence ; 
nor  do  we  see  the  declivity  of  the  city  of  Quebec 
to  the  north  and  west;  from  the  highest  parts  that 
are  in  view,  it  declines  very  rapidly  in  that  direc- 
tion, tox\  rds  the  Charles  river ;  and  this  part  is  ex- 
tensive and  populous,  and  includes  the  fine  sub- 
urb of  St.  Johns. 

In  order  to  understand  this  print,  and  No.  5  and 
6,  it  must  be  remembered,  that  the  front  of  th^a 
town,  towards  the  St.  Lawrence,  is  circular,  pre- 
seoting  its  convex  side  to  the  rivers,  in  the  form  of 
the  exterior  curve  of  an  amphitheatre. 


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236     TOUR  BttrwXEl9  HARtrORB  AlfB  quCBSC. 


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,M 


BATTLE  OF  MONTMORENCI. 

The  roar  of  the  ibataract — ^the  beauty  of  the  re- 
volving spray,  and  the  splendors  of  the  rainbow, 
have  not  always  been  observed,  in  tranquility,  at 
Montmorenci ;  for  the  flash,  and  the  smoke,  and 
the  thunder  of  artillery,  have,  at  a  former  period, 
overwhelmed  these  milder  beauties,  and  the  banks, 
mnd  the  waters  of  these  rivers  have,  at  their  conflu- 
ence, been  stained  with  blood. 

On  the  27th  of  June,  1759,  General  Wolfe,  ar- 
riving in  the  St.  Lawrence,  with  an  armament  equip- 
ped expressly  for  the  reduction  of  Quebec,  estab- 
lished his  aripy  upon  the  island  of  Orleans,  while 
Admiral  Saunders,  with  the  fleet,  occupied  the  chan- 
nels and  the  bay  of  Quebec.  On  the  29th,  General 
Wolfe  detached  General  Monckton,  with  four  bat- 
talions, to  drive  the  French  force  from  Point  Levi, 
the  promontory  opposite  to  Quebec,  and  to  occupy 
that  place,  a  service  which  was  successfully  execu- 
ted. The  Frei^ch  soon  after,  passed  over  from  Que- 
bec, with  one  thousand  six  hundred  men,  to  attack 
General  Monckton,  but  fell  into  confusion — fired  oh 
one  another,  and  retreated  back  to  the  city.*  Gen- 
eral Monckton  severely  cannonaded  and  bombard- 
ed the  city,  from  this  point,  and  although  his  fire 
was  quite  destructive  to  the  lower  town,  and  very 
injurious  to  the  buildings  in  the  upper  it  made  no 
serious  impression  on  its  defences,  and  left  the  place 

*  Geaeral  Wolfe*s  dispatch  (o  his  goverameot. 


;.^; 


of  the  re- 
le  rainbow, 
nquility,  at 
imolie,  and 
ner  period, 
I  the  banks, 
heir  conflu- 

il  Wolfe,  ar* 
iLinent  equip- 
lebec,  estab- 
rleans,  while 
ied  the  cban- 
i9th,  General 
ith  four  bat- 
Point  Levi, 
id  to  occupy 
^sfully  execu- 
tor from  Que- 
len,  to  attack 
^ioD — fired  on 
city.*    Gen- 
Lnd  bombard- 
lOugh  his  fire 
0,  and  very 
jr  it  nnade  no 
left  the  place 


70rR   BETWEEN    HARTFORD    ANJE)    (QUEBEC.    237 

nearly  as  tenable  as  ever.     Indeed,  it  is  obvious 
from  mere  inspection,  that  were  the  works  of  Que- 
bec, on  the  side  next  to  Point  Levi,  all  destroyed, 
still  it  would  be  of  little  avail,  towards  an  escalade 
of  the  precipices  of  naked  rock,  in  some  places  more 
than  three  hundred  feet  high,  on  which  the  walls  and 
towers  are  built.     For  many  miles  above  the  city, 
the  left  bank  of  the  river  is  a  mere  precipice,  or  ad- 
mits of  easy  and  effectual  defence,  by  a  small  num- 
ber of  troops,  judiciously  stationed.    /The  only  ac- 
cessible ground,  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Que- 
bec, is  the  graceful  declivity  between  the  river  St, 
Charles,  which  washes  the  north  eastern  part  of  the 
city,  and  the  M ontmorenci.     This  is  the  fine  natur- 
al slope,  that  appeared  so  beautiful  as  we  entered 
the  hay  of  Quebec,  ilnd  stretches  four  or  five  miles, 
along  the  river,  from  Beauport  to  the  St.  Lawrence. 
Near  Montmorenci,   this  declivity  becomes  very 
steep  and  of  arduous  ascent.     This  ground  would, 
of  course^  invite  a  landing,  but  the  Marquis  de  Mont- 
calm, had  occupied  every  part*bf  it,  with  an  en- 
trenched camp ;  batteries  of  cannon  were  placed  at 
every  accessible  point,  and  his  rear  was  defended 
by  a  thick  forest.  ^'-fij^^-:. 

Still,  General  Wolfe,  seeing  no  prospect  of  re- 
ducing Quebet;,  except  by  first  defeating  the  army 
by  which  it  was  defended,  and  perceiving  no  possi- 
bility of  attacking  that  army,  except  by  occupying 
this  ground,  took  measures  to  effect  that  object. 

«1 


..•.I  I 


i 


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^^^' 


■i' 


238     TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

On  the  night  of  July  9th,  he  passed  his  army 
over  the  north  channel,  between  the  island  of  Or- 
leans and  the  promontory  represented  on  the  right 
of  print  7.  He  wished  next  to  pass  the  Montmoren- 
ci  above  the  falls,  and  to  attack  the  enemy  in  the 
rear,  but,  there  was  no  ford  nearer  than  three  miles 
up  tl.?  river,  and  the  opposite  bank  was  entrenched, 
and  so  steep  and  woody,  that  it  could  not  be  suc- 
cessfully attacked. 

He  had  occupied  with  cannon,  the  precipice  be- 
low the  falls,  which  forms  the  right  of  the  curve,  in 
print  7  ;  it  is  higher  than  the  opposite  side,  to  which 
the  left  of  the  French  camp  extended,  and  the  vigor 
of  the  fire  from  this  battery,  under  the  direction  of 
General  Townsend,  prevented  the  French  from 
erecting  a  corresponding  battery,  near  the  place 
where  the  aqueduct  is  represented,  in  the  left  6{  the 
picture ;  this  battery  was  therefore  unopposed,  and 
considerably  annoyed  the  French  camp* 

We  saw  the  remains  of  the  English  battery  ;  they 
are  still  distinctly  Visible  on  the  heights,  north-east 
of  the  bay,  below  the  falls  ;  the  bank  has  now  crum- 
bled so  much,  that  the  entrenchments  are  close  to 
the  etffie  of  the  precipice,  and  the  observer,  on  ac- 
count of  the  frail  support  below,  should  be  on  his 
guard  in  approaching  the  brink.  * 

It  has  been  already  mentioned,  in  the  descriptiou 
of  print  7,  that  the  bay  below  the  falls  is  fordable, 
near,  and  at  low  water.  General  W^dfe  determined 
to  avail  himself  of  this  facility,  and  to  attack  the  en- 


SBEC. 

his  army 
id  of  Or- 
i  the  right 
ontmoren- 
itay  in  the 
three  miles 
jntrenched, 
lot  be  suc- 

recipice  he- 
he  curve,  in 
de,  to  which 
ind  the  vigor 
direction  of 
"rench  from 
IT  the  ^ace 
he  left  <5f  the 
)pposed,  and 

fattery;they 

|s,  north-east 

IS  nowcrum- 

are  close  to 

srver,  on  ac- 

^d  be  on  his 

ie  description 

is  fordable, 

le  detertnined 

ittack  the  en- 


4^  ^1  * 

TOUR  BCTWEEM  HABTVORD  AMD  ^UBBEC.     9S9 

(;my  in  front,  in  t))eir  entrenchments  ;  to  enfilade 
and  batter  these,  a  great  quanthy  of  artillery  was 
placed  upon  the  eminence,  and  was  served  with 
much  effect. 

It  became  necessary  to  pass  the  ford  on  the  rocks« 
and  then  to  go  around  the  point  by  the  saw  mill ; 
which  is  exhibited  on  the  right  of  print  8.  The 
promontory  thert  represented,  immediately  above 
the  saw  mill,  cuts  off,  in  a  great  measure,  the  view 
of  the  ground  occupied  by  the  French  camp,  and 
also  the  view  of  tlie  beach  where  the  English  troops 
were  to  form. 

It  was  on  the  morning  of  the  31st  of  luly,  that 
the  grenadiers,  in  the  boats  of  the  squadron,  sup- 
ported by  .a  part  of  General  Monckton*s  corps  from 
Point  Levi,  who  were  also  in  boats,  proceeded  for 
the  shores  they  were  thrown  into  some  confusion, 
and  detained  a*  good  while  by  accidentally  ground- 
ing, so  that  it  was  late  ii^  the  afternoon,  before  they 
effected  a  landing  on  the  beach,  am^ve  the  saw  mill 
The  enemy  had  precipitately  al^doned  a  redoubt, 
close  to  tfab  shore ;  the  corps  of  Generals  Townsend 
and  Murray,  which  were  to  ford  the  Montmorenci, 
and  come  round  to  the  beach,  to  unite  in  the  attack, 
were  on  their  way,^  and  in  good  order,  but  the  corps 
of  General  Monckton  were  not  yet  landed.  , 

The  grenadiers^  consisting  of  thirteen  companies, 
aided  by  two  hundred  royal  Americans,  had  orders 
to  form  in  foi^  distinct  bodiest,  and  to  proceed  to 
the  attack  as  soon  as  they  could  be  supported  by 


ml  i 


''ikij 


'** 


% 

* 


'% 


'^^ 


240    TOim  BETWKBN  MARTVORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

Monckton's  corps,  and  aided  by  t)ie  troops  from  the 
ford  of  the  Montmorenci. 

But,  before  Monckton's  corps  were  landed,  and 
before  the  other  troops  were  at  hand  to  support 
them,  and,  without  waiting  to  form,  they  rushed  im- 
petuously forward,  running  towards  the  ^*  enemy's 
entrenchments,  in  the  utmost  disorder  and  confu- 
sion."* Their  courage  proved  4heir  ruin ;  they 
were  cut  down  in  great  numbers,  by  a  very  hot  and 
well  directed  fire,  and,  being  unable  to  form,  they 
retreated  behind  the  redoubt,  which  the  French  had 
abandoned,  leaving  their  dead  to  be  plundered,  and 
numbers  .of  their  wounded  to  be  murdered  and 
scalped  by  the  savages.  General  Wolfe  now  drew  off 
bis  grenadiers,  to  form  them  behind  General  Monck- 
ton's  corps,  which  was  by  this  time  dvawn  up  on  the 
beach  in  '*  extreme  gp(M  order."  But  it  was  now 
near  nigb^-^ii  sudden  thunder  storm  came  on->the  tide 
began  to  make^and  the  attack  was  abandoned,  after 
the  loss  of  betwSHi  five  and  six  hundred  brave^raen, 
of  the  flower  of  thu^rmy,  and,  Wolfe,  fearing  that,  if 
he  persisted  any  longer,  his  retreat  might  !be  cut  off, 
quietly  recreated  again  to  his  camp,  across  the 
Montmorenci.  This  attack  has  often  been  censur- 
ed as  rash,  and,  after  viewing  the  ground,  I  presume 
most  |>6r86ns  would  pronounce  that  judgment  to  be 
.  odrrect.  General  Wolfe  himself,  says :  "  The  ene- 
my were  incTeed  posted  upon  a  aommanding  emi- 
nence.   The  beach,  upon  which  tiif»  troops  were 

•  »  Wolfe'*  letter  to  Mr.  Pitt'     • 


'#^^ 


TOVB  BETWEEN  HARTFOBD  AND  QUEBEC.  341 


led,  and 
support 
shed  im- 
enemy's 
nd  confu- 
iiin;  they 
y  hot  and 
orm,  they 
ranch  had 
dered,  and 
•dered  and 
)W  drew  off 
ral  Monck- 
up  on  the 
it  was  now 
)n— the  tide 
ioned,  after 
brave*  men, 
aringthat,if 
^e  cutoff, 
across  the 
|een  censur- 
1  presume 
;ment  to  be 
The  ene- 
mding  emi- 
•oops  were 


drawn  up,  was  of  a  deep  mud,  with  holes,  and  cut 
by  several  gullies.  The  hill  to  be  ascended,  very 
steep,  and  not  every  where  practicable.  The  ene- 
my numerous  in  their  entrenchments,  and  their  fire 
hot.  If  the  attack  had  succeeded,  our  loss  must 
certainly  have  been  great,  and  theirs  inconsiderable, 
from  the  shelter  which  the  neighbouring  woods  af- 
forded them.  The  river  of  St.  Charles  still  remain- 
ed to  be  passed,  before  the  town  was  invested.  All 
these  circumstances  I  considered ;  but,  the  desire 
to  act  in  conformity  to  the  king's  intentions,  induced 
me  to  make  this  trial,  persuaded  that  a  victorious 
army  finds  no  difficulties."* 

General  Wolfe  expected,  (had  he  succeeded,)  to 
hav^  penetrated  !he  left  of  the  French  camp,  where 
his  artillery,  from  the  opposite  heights,  had  made 
an  impression.  Without  claiming  to  have  any  mili- 
tary knowledge,  I  may  perhaps,  be  allowed  to  say, 
that,  after  toiling  up  this  hill,  on  foot,  and  finding  it  an 
arduous  undertaking  to  one  entirely  unmolested,  it  ap- 
pears next  to  madnegs,  to  lead  columns  of  men  up 
a  long  and  steep  ascent,  where,  especially  in  a  hot 
summer's  day,  they  could  not,  for  many  minutes, 
proceed  upon  the  run,  without  being  put  out  of 
breath,  and  where  the  well  directed  fire  of  deeply 
entrenched  troop|^  aided  by  artillery,  must  speedily 
cut  down^  (as  it  actually  did,)  one  half  of  those  wha 
made  the  «ash  attempt,  while  they,  in  turn,  could  do 
their  enemy  little  or  no  barm. 

*  Wolfe's  letter  to  Mr.  Pitt. 

2\» 


A,' 


\ij?.:.'i'i 


hi  J 


%\ 


i**?; 


I 


342    TOUH  BETWEEN  HARTrORD  AND  ^VKISC. 

It  was  an  afTairt  extremely  like  Bunker's  hill,  in  al- 
most all  its  circumstances,  except  that  the  French  pos- 
sessed regular  entrenchments,  abunciance  of  cannon, 
and  experienced  commanders  and  troops,  while  the 
Americans,  at  Bunker's  Hill,  had  nothing  more  than 
a  smnll  redoubt,  and  a  very  imperfect  breast  work, 
thrown  up  in  one  night,  and  made,  to  some  extent, 
of  rail  fence  and  hay,  and  were  almost  without  can- 
non, and  with  commanders  and  troops,  most  of 
whom  had  never  been  in  battle  before.  Had  they 
been  situated  at  Bunker's  Hill,  as  the  French  were, 
at  Montmorenci,  they  would,  without  doubt,  have 
finally  repulsed  the  assailants.  If  General  Wolfe 
liad  lived,  and  ultimately  failed  in  the  campaign,  he 
would  probably  have  been  centred,  with  much 
more  severity,  especially  had  he  been  frustrated  in 
the  attempt  to  gain  the  plains  of  Abraham,  which  he 
certainly  would  have  been,  had  the  French  com- 
mander beefn  as  much  on  his  guard  there,  as  at 
Montmorenci. 

In  the  recital  of  the  horrors  of  war,  we  view  them 
with  wonderful  apathy,  for  the  very  reason,  that 
ought  to  excite  the  deepest  interest,  because  the  re* 
suits  are  given  by  hundreds  and  by  thousands.  Id 
this  vast  aggregate  of  human  woe,  we  forget  the  par- 
ticular sufferings,  and  are  much  less  affected,  (as 
has  often  heen  remarked  by  moral  writers,)  by  the 
accounts  of  the  slaughter  of  armies,  than  jve  should 
be  by  the  detailed  exhibition,  of  the  sufferings  of  8 
single  sotdier.    But  we  ought  to  jvttember  that  er- 


TOVR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  ^VEBEC.     243 

ff^l  wounded  and  dying  roan  hat  hit  own  individual 
agony f  and  that  it  is  not  greater  for  a  Wolfe,  than 
for  every  private  soldier. 

The  following  anecdote^  contains  an  account  o(^he 
dangers  and  sufferings  of  two  individuals,  in  this  very 
battle,  and  the  event  happened  on  the  very  ground 
which  we  walked  over,  in  this  day's  excursion.  I 
presume  that,  notwithstanding  its  length,  I  shall  be 
excused  for  its  introduction  ;— 

«  Captain  Ocbterlony,  and  Ensign  Peyton,  be- 
longed to  the  regiment  of  Brigadier-General  Monck- 
ton.  They  were  nearly  of  an  age,  which  did  not 
exceed  thirty ;  the  first  was  a  North-Briton,  the 
other  a  native  of  Ireland.  Both  were  agreeable  ii^ 
person,  and  unblemished  in  character,  and  coonect*^ 
ed  together  by  the  ties  of  mutual  friendship  and  es- 
teem. On  the  day  that  oreceded  the  battle.  Cap- 
tain Ocbterlony  had  been  obliged  to  fight  a  duel 
with  a  Germaa  officer,  in  which,  though  he  wound- 
ed and  disarmed  his  antagonist,  yet  he  himself  re- 
ceived a  dangerous  hurt  under  the  right  arm,  in 
consequence  of  which  his  friends  insisted  on  his  re^ 
maining  in  camp  during  the  action  of  next  day;  but 
his  spirit  was  too  great  to  comply  with  this  remon- 
strance. He  declared  it  should  never  be  said  that 
a  scratch,  received  in  a  private  rencounter,  had  pre- 
vented him  from  doing  his  duty,  when  his  country 
required  his  Service;  and  he  took  the  field  with  a 


^aCtf 


!'   H 


I 


f  ^ 


emolMV  Hiftltfiy  df  EflgUod,  Vol.  V.  page 


'-» 


1 
f  i 


I 


244    TOim  ,BSTWE£N  RARTrOAD  AND  ^l^EBEC. 

fusil  io  his  hand,  though  he  was  hardly  ahle  to  db- 
ry  his  arms.  In  leading  up  his  men  to  the  enemy's 
entrenchment,  he  was  shot  through  the  lungs  with  a 
mu|ket  ball,  an  accident  which  obliged  him  to  part 
with  his  fusil,  but  he  still  continued  advai^cing,  un- 
til, by  loss  of  blood,  he  became  too  weak  to  proceed 
further.  About  the  same  time,  Mr.  Peyton  was 
lamed  by  a  shot,  which  shattered  the  small  bone  of 
his  left  leg.  The  soldiers,  in  their  retreat,  earnest- 
ly  beggedi^  with  tears  in  their  eyes,  that  Captain 
Ochterlony  would  allow  them  to  carry  him  and  the 
ensign  off  the  field.  But  he  was  so  bigotted  to  a 
severe  point  of  honour,  that  he  would  not  quit  the 
ground,  though  he  desired  they  would  take  care  of 
his  Ensign.  Mr.  Peyton,  with  a  generous  disdain, 
rejected  their  good  offices,  declacing^  that  he  would 
not  leave  his  Captain  in  such  a  situation  ;  and,  in  a 
little  time,  they  remained  sole  survivors  on  that  part 
of  the  field. 

"  Captain  Ochterlony  sat  down  by  his  friend, 
and,  as  they  expected  nothing  but  immediate  death, 
they  took  leave  of  each  other ;  yet  they  were  not 
altogether  abandoned  by  the  hope  of  being  protect- 
ed as  prisoners  I  for  the  Captain  seeing  a  French 
S(^dier,  with  tw^.  Indians,  approach,  started  up,  and 
accosting  them  in  the  French  language^  which  he 
spoke  perfectly  well,  expressed  his  expectation  that 
tliey  would  treat  him  and  his  companion  as  officers, 
prisoners,  and  gentlemen.  The  tjirp  I^ians  seeir- 
cd  to  be  en^ly  under  the  coii|i|MOIe  French- 


% 


}  to  dkr- 

enemy's 

gs  with  a 

nto  part 

^cing,  un- 

)  proceed 

yton  was 

II  bone  of 

t,  earnest- 

,t  Captain 

m  and  the 

;otted  tea 

[Ot  quit  the 

^ke  care  of 

)U3  disdain, 

the  would 
;  and,  in  a 
)n  that  part 

his  friend, 
diate  death, 
iy  were  not 
ing  protect- 
a  French 
led  up,  and 
1^,  which  he 
ictation  that 
as  officers, 
iians  seerr- 
,e  French- 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTfORD  AND  ^tTEBCCt    243 

man,  who,  comiiig  up  to  Mr.  Peyton,  as  he  sat  on 
the  ground,  snatched  his  laced  hat  from  his  head, 
and  robbed  the  Captain  of  his  watch  and  money. 
This  outrage  was  a  signal  to  the  Indians  for  murder 
and  pillage.     One  of  them,  clubbing  his  firelock, 
struck  at  him  behind,  with  a  view  to  knock  him 
down,   but  th€  blow  missing  his  head,  took  place 
upon  his  shoulder.    At  the  same  instant,  the  other 
Indian  poured  his  shot  into  the  breast  of  this  unfor- 
tunate young  gentleman,  who  cried  out,  *  O  Pey- 
ton !  the  villain  has  shot  me.'    Not  yet  satiated 
with  cruelty,  the  barbarian  sprung  upon  him,  and 
stabbed  him  in  the  belly  with  his  scalping  knife. 
The  Captain  having  parted  with  his  fusil,  had  no 
weapon  for  his  defence,  as  none  of  the  officers  wore 
swords  in  the  action.    The  three  ruffians  finding 
him  still  alive,  endeavouredlMo  strangle  him  with  his 
own  sash  ;  and  he  was  now  upon  his  knees,  strug- 
gling against  them  with  surprising  exertion.    Mr. 
Peyton,  at  this  juncture,  having  a  double-barrelled 
musket  in  his  hand,  and  seeing  the  distress  of  his 
friend,  fired  at  one  of  the  Indians,   who  dropped 
dead  on  the  spot.     The  Qther,  thinking  the  ensign 
would  now  be  an  easy  prey,  advanced  towards  him, 
and  Mr.  Peyton,  having  taken  good  aim,  at  the  dis- 
tance of  four  yards,  discharged  his  piece  the  second 
time,  but  It  seemed  to  take  no  effect.    The  savage 
fired  in  his  turn,  and  wounded  the  ensign  in  the 
shoulder ;  tl^^  rushiag  upon  him,  thrust  his  bayo*. 
net  t|)rough  1^  body }  he  repeated  the  blow,  whick 


f 


^h'\ 


r  . 


■m 


l\i 


346  TOUH  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC » 

Mr.  Pejitoo  attempting  to  parry^  received  another 
wound  in  his  left  hand ;  nevertheless,  he  seized  the 
Indian's  musket  with  the  same  hand,  pulled  him 
forwards)   and,  with  his   right,   drawing  a  dagger 
which  hung  hy  his  side,  plunged  it  in  the  barbari- 
an's side.   A  violent  struggle  ensued  ;  but  at  length, 
Mr.  Peyton  was  uppermost,   and,  with  repeated 
strokes  of  his  dagger,  killed  his  antagonist  outright. 
Here  he  was  seized  with  an  unaccountable  emotion 
of  curiosity,  to  know  whether  or  not  his  shot  had 
taken  place  on  the  body  of  the  Indian ;  he  accor- 
dingly turned  him  up,  and  stripping  off  his  blanket, 
perceived  that  the  ball  had  penetrated  quite  through 
the  cavity  of  the  breast.     Having  thus   obtained  a 
dear  bought  victory,  he  started  up  on  one  leg,  and 
saw  Captain  Ochterlony  standing  at  the  distance  of 
sixty  yards,  close  by  thfienemy's  breast-work,  with 
the  French  soldier  attending  him.     Mr.  Peyton  then 
called  aloud,  *  Captain  Ochterlony,  I  am  glad  to  see 
you  have  at  last  got  under  protection.     Beware  of 
that  villain,  who  is  more  barbarous  than  the  sava- 
ges.  God  bless  you,  my  dear  Cap*tain.  I  see  a  par- 
ty of  Indians  coming  this  way,   and  expect  to  be 
murdered  immediately.'   A  number  of  those  barba- 
rians had/or«ome  time  been  employed  on  the  left, 
in  scalping  and  pillaging  the  dying  and  the  dead  that 
were  left  upon  the  field  of  battle  ;  and  above  thirty 
of  them  were  in  fjilF  march  to  destroy  Mr.  Peyton. 
This  gentleme*^  knew  he  had  00  mercy  to  expect; 
(pTf  should  his  life  be  spared  for  the  present,  they  i 


T«VB  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  ^UGBBC.     247  ' 

would  have  Afterwards  insisted  upon  sacrificing  him 
to  the  manes  of  their  brethren  whbm  he  had  slain  ; 
and  in  that  case  he  would  have  been  put  to  death 
by  the  most  excruciating  tortures.    Full  of  this  idea, 
he  snatched  up  bis  musket,  and,  notwithstanding  his 
broken  leg,  ran  above  forty  yards  without  halting ; 
and  feeling  himself  now  totally  disabled,  and  inca- 
pable of  proceeding  one  step  further,  he  loaded  his 
piece,  and  presented  it  to  the  two  foremost  Indians, 
who  stood  aloof,  waiting  to  be  joined  by  their  fel- 
lows :  while  the  French,  from  their  breast-works, 
kept  up  a  continual  fire  of  cannon  and  small  arms 
upon  this  poor,  solitary,  maimed  gentleman.   In  this 
uncomfortable  situation  he  stood,  when  he  discerned 
at  a  distance,  a  Highland  officer,  with  a  party  of  his 
men,  skirting  the  plain  towards  the  field  oi  battle. 
He  forthwith  waved  his  hand  in  signal  of  d\;;i€ss. 
and  being  perceived   by  the  officer,  lie  deviciiod 
three  of  his  men  to  his  assistance.     T'ltsi;  brave 
fellows  hastened  to  him  through  the  midst  of  a  ter- 
rible fire,  and  one  of  them  bore  him   off  on   his 
shoulders.   The  Highland  officer  was  Captain  Mac- 
donald,  of  Colonel  Frazer*s  battalion ;  who.  undfer- 
I standing  t||at  a  young  gentleman,  his  kinsman,  bad 
I  dropped  on  the  field  of  battle,  had  put  himself  at  the 
head  of  this  party,  with  which  he  penetrated  to  the 
middle  of  the  field,  drove  a  considierable  number  of 
Ithe  French  and  Indians  before  him,  and  finding  his 
Irelatiou  still  unscalped,  carried  him  off  in  triumph. 
[Poor  Captain  Ochterlooy  was  convieyed  to  Quebec* 


"t1 


■if.  w 


'^# 


i$" 


.vS48     TOUR  BKTWCElf  BAllTFOED  AND  (QUEBEC. 


It- 


I  4 


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J'  : 
I!  ' 


1^ 


where,  in  a4ew  days,  he  died  of  his  wounds.  After 
the  reduction  of  that  place,  the  French  surgeons 
who  attended  him,  declared,  that,  in  all  probability, 
he  would  have  recovered  of  the  two  shots  he  had 
received  in  his  breast,  had  he  not  been  mortally 
wounded  in  the  belly  by  the  Indian's  scalping 
knife. 

^*  As  this  very  remarkable  scene  was  acted  in 
sight  of  both  armies,  General  Townshend,  in  the 
sequel,  expostulated  with  the  French  officers  upon 
the  inhumanity  of  keeping  up  such  a  severe  fire 
against  two  wounded  gentlemen,  who  were  disa- 
bled, and  destitute  of  all  hope  of  escaping.  They 
answered,  that  the  fire  was  not  made  by  the  regu- 
lars, but  by  the  Canadians  and  savages,  whom  it 
was  not  in  the  power  of  discipline  to  restrain." 

EXCURSION  TO  THE  FALLS  OF  CHAUDIERE. 

Oct.  8. — With  our  faithful  Gouvan,  and  our  com- 
fortable calash,  we  crossed  the  St.  Lawrence  about 
the  middle  of  the  day.  We  had  come  down  to  the 
wharf  much  earlier,  and  waited  two  hours  for  the 
boat,  which  was  detained  on  the  other  side,  at  the 
command  of  a  party  of  the  officers  of  justice,  who 
bad  gone  over  to  whip  a  culprit ;  at  length,  a  great  | 
company  of  them  returned  in  the  boat,  with  their 
badges,  and  bringing  with  them  the  miserable  man. 
As  usual  elsewhere,  in  such  cases,  it  excited  and  I 
eratified  iho  raob,  hut  the  JisKraeed  and  chastised] 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTTOBB  AND  dUEBEC. 


24^ 


offender,  wore  an  aspect  very  different  from  the 
consequential  air  of  the  constables,  or  from  the  grin- 
ning insolence  of  the  populace. 

Arrived  on  the  opposite  shore,  we  soon  ascend- 
ed the  steep  heights  of  Point  Levi— saw  where 
General  Monckton  erected  his  batteries,  to  bom- 
bard the  city,  previous  to  the  unsuccessful  battle  at 
Montmorenci — and  enjoyed  a  brilliant  and  new 
view  of  Quebec,  and  of  its  environs — the  fortifica- 
tions and  precipices  appearing  particularly  grand 
from  this  elevation. 

DESCRIPTION  OF  THf:  VIGNETTE. — {See  title,  page.) 
VIEW  OF  QUEBEC  FROM  POINT  LEVI. 

No  position,  in  which  we  were  placed,  afforded 
us  so  impressive  a  view  of  the  rock  of  Q.iebec,  and 
particularly  of  its  castellated  appearance,  as  this  from 
the  summil  of  Point  Levi.  After  the  prints  that 
have  been  already  described,  this  will  be  readily  in- 
telligible. The  distance  is  about  one  mile.  On  the 
extreme  left,  is  a  glimpse  of  the  heights  and  plains  of 
Abraham — on  the  extreme  right,  the  hills  about 
Beauport  and  Montmorenci.  Immediately  before 
us,  is  the  rock  of  Quebec ;  and  the  extent  of  the 
part  that  is  seen,  is  about  one  mile :  nearly  the  whole 
of  it  is,  literally,  a  naked  rocky  precipice,  of  a  very 
dark  hue,  almost  black,  and  composed  of  enormous 
I  strata  of  slate  and  lime  stone,  very  rude,  both  on 
I  account  of  their  natural  contortions,  and  the  e^Tectj; 

22, 


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9S0    TOVR  BETWEEN  UAIITFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

of  blasting,  and  of  other  forms  of  violence  upou 
them.  On  the  summit  of  the  rock,  on  the  left, 
where  it  is  three  hundred  and  forty-five  feet  high,  is 
the  citadel,  standing  on  Cape  Diamond ;  some  way 
to  the  right  of  this,  where  the  rock  declines  consid- 
erably in  height,  appears  the  castle  of  St.  Louis, 
(more  distinctly  exhibited  in  print  6.)  Still  further 
to  the  right,  and  scarcely  distinguishable  among  the 
buildings,  is  the  Prescot  gate,  at  the  top  of  mountain 
street,  which  comes  obliquely  up  from  the  lower 
town,  and  afFordc  the  only  communication  on  this 
side  of  the  rock.  Beyond  the  gate,  on  the  left,  is 
seen  the  English  Episcopal  cathedral,  and,  to  the 
right,  the  Roman  Catholic  cathedral,  the  parliament 
house,  the  seminary,  &;c.  and,  in  front  of  these  last, 
is  tlie  wall  of  the  city,  with  embrasures  and  cannon, 
forming  the  grand  battery,  which  occupies  a  lower 
level,  or  natural  platform  of  the  rock,  which  is  here 
about  two  hundred  and  thirty  feet  high. 

At  the  foot  of  the  rock,  is  rhe  lower  town,  and,  if 
we  add  to  it,  that  part  exhibited  from  Montmoren- 
ci,  (print  8,)  we  have  then  very  nearly  the  whole  of 
the  lov  er  town  ;  it  uk^  be  added,  that  print  8,  and 
this  vignette,  in  connexion,  exhibit  nearly  the  whole 
of  the  rock  of  Quebec.  Nearly  on  the  extreme  left 
of  the  rock,  at  the  foot  cf  Cape  Diamond,  in  the 
lower  town,  is  the  place  where  General  Montgome- 
ry was  slain  on  the  morning  of  December  Ol,  1775; 
and,  on  the  right,  at  the  foot  of  the  rock,  or  grand 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.   251 

battery,  is  the  street  where  General  Arnold's  party 
were  defeated  and  captured',  on  the  same  occasion. 
This  vignette  is  the  only  print  in  this  volume,  that 
is  not  original.    It  is  common  at  Quebec,  on  bank 

bills,  and,  Mr.  W ,  finding  it  so  very  exact  a 

representation  of  the  fine  scene,  which  we  contem- 
plated, from  Point  Levi,  adopted,  and  copied  it,  with 
some  slight  variations.  •The  engraver  has  given  it 
still  greater  precision,  by  reference  ta  the  view  of 
Quebec,  on  Colonel  Bouchette's  topographical  map 
of  Lower  Canada.    ^ 


The  villages  through  which  we  passed,  were  not 
so  well  built  as  Beauport ;  a  larger  proportion  of  the 
houses  were  constructed  of  logs,  and  the  people  ap*- 
peared  not  in  so  good  circumstances,  but  still  they 
were  comfortable. 

The  road  to  Montmorenci  was  rough  ;  that  over 
which  we  were  now  passing,  was  smooth,  and,  com- 
pared with  any  other  roads  that  we  had  seen  in 
Canada,  it  was  very  fine.  We  passed  through  a 
large  settlement,  sustained  principally  by  the  great 
lumber  establishment  of  Mr.  Caldwell,  and  soon  ar- 
rived at  the  mouth  of  the  Chaudiere  river,  over 
which  we  were  ferried. 

During  our  whole  ride  from  Point  Levi,  we  had 
been  gratified  by  a  succession  of  fine  views :  the 
river — the  opposite  shores,  precipitous  in  almost 
every  direction — the  heights  of  Abraham — Cap€ 


p 

Wi^ 

am 

I  vl^fl^fli 

|Ki; 

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252     TOVR  BITWEKN  HARTFORD  AND  <tU£BEC. 

Diamond,  and  the  upper  and  lower  towns — the 
slopes  of  Beauport,  and  the  heights  of  Montmoren- 
€i — the  Isle  of  Orleans,  and  the  bosom  of  the  riv- 
tr — some  of  these  features  were  constantly,  either  in 
prospect,  or  in  retrospect ;  and  we  saw  many  scenei^ 
which  would  have  been  well  worthy  of  tho  pencil. 

Among  these,  one  was  selected,  of  which  the  aii- 
Rexed  print  is  a  representation. 

PRINT,  NO.    9. 

This  scene,  which  we  thought  not  to  be  exceed- 
ed in  beauty  by  any  thing  that  we  saw  in  Canada, 
was  sketched  from  the  left  bank  of  the  Chaudiere 
river,  at  its  mouth.  Our  road  from  Point  Levi, 
conducted  us  to  the  foot  of  the  precipice  of  rock, 
which  is  seen  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Chaudi' 
ere  ;  and,  while  a  larger  boat  was  getting  ready  to 
convey  over  carriages  and  horses,  Mr.  W.  had  the 
good  fortune  to  cross  first,  in  a  small  boat,  and  occu- 
pied the  few  moments,  before  the  rest  of  us  arrived, 
in  securing  the  outlines  of  this  grand  and  beautiful 
prospect. 

It  was  seen  by  the  mildest,  softest  light,  of  an  In- 
dian summer  afternoon — not  more  than  two  hours 
before  sun-setting  ;  and  there  was  a  mellowness  iu 
the  tints,  especially  of  the  remoter  objects,  which, 
notwithstanding  the  grandeur  of  some  of  the  fea- 
tures of  the  landscape,  excited  still  stronger  percep- 
.tions  of  beauty.  These  impressions  were  heighten- 
m  by  contrast,  with  the  deep  black  ivUf,  immediate- 


tl 

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'if 


sld|J«»  of  B«}a»|i^rt,  anil  the  hclglit^  of  Montmoipn- 
ct — the  lile  of  I  'le«in*»  and  the  bosooi  of  the  ri 
•sv- -some  of  the:-.*;;  'jutureji  wera  constantly, tjithir  iit, 
pic^pect,  or  in  rRt  >  ^cct ;  and  we  saw  ra;it«v  icen^" 
whiclj  would  have  bo  \)  woll  vvortliy  of  thn  j.v«icii 

Among  these,  one  u  y  »ole<'ip»l,  of  whirl)  -hf:  an- 
Mttxed  pdnt  is  a  represe;  alion, 

PRINT,  .  O.    9. 

This  scene,  which  ive  th«\  ^iit  not  to  he  pt^rl- 
ed  in  beauty  by  any  thing  liist  we  saw  in  Cuimda. 
was  sketched  from  the  left  blr«k  of  tho  Chaudiprt 
river,  Td  its  mouth.     Our  roai^   from   PoiiH  Lev. 
ccndMr:ted  ns  to  the  foot  of  the  precipice. of  n:('. 
which  is  seen  on  tho  opposite  s.de  of  the  Chao-jb 
mm  ;  and,  while  a  larger  boat  wti^ji'  gcttini;  renrfy 
tJonvey  orcr  carrii*^  ftiwi  hor-t^sV  Mr.  W;  hai^  \h* 
good  fortune  to  elporj?  first,  in  a  small  boat,  and  oc.r-, 
aied  the  few  moments,  before  tho  re.nofwsi  arriv« 
in  securing  the  outlines  of  this  grand  and  bea^t 
prospect. 

It  was  seen  by  the  mildest,  softest  liehv  of  m'l 
dian  sumKier  afternuon — not  nnore   thanv^'*^  binn 
before  sun-setting;  and  there  was  a  meHt^^^N'!*^' 
fiie  tints,  especially  of  the  remoter  objec*         •   > 
notwiih-tandioff  the  grandeur  of  some  of 
tures  of  tlie  landscape,  excised  still  stroi}il*«r  , 
.tions  of  beauty.     These  impressions  we?'^  i 
ed  hr  contract,  with  the  deep  black  gull,  'rmr. 


(''■ 


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TOUR  BETWEEN  HABTrORD  AND  QUEBEC.  253 

ly  below  the  observer,  and  a  little  to  the  right.-— 
This  is  the  mouth  of  a  very  considerable  river,  the 
Ghaudiere,  which  here,  coming  from  the  south- 
east, pours  its  black  waters  into  titQ  deep  green  St. 
Lawrence,  and  is  sO  imprisoned,  between  Very  ab- 
rupt precipitous  shores,  princip^ly  of  rock,*  but 
overhung  in  part  by  forest,  that,  from  the  high  bank 
where  the  view  was  taken,  only  a  part  of  the  rivet 
is  seen.  Some  idea  of  the  height  of  these  banks 
will  be  gained,  by  comparison  with  the  ships,  which 
here  lie  securely  anchored  in  the  mouth  of  the  Ghau- 
diere ;  they  are  European  ships,  in  quest  of  lumber, 
and  i^ppeared  tO  be  generally  of  between  two  and 
three  hundred  tons  burthen. 

On  the  right,  at  the  distance  of  six  or  seven  miles, 
we  see  Point  Levi ;  in  the  middle  of  the  extreme 
distance,  are  the  hills  about  Montmorenci,  distant 
about  twelve  miles  ;  on  the  smooth  expanse  of  the 
river  between,  numberless  ships  are  seen  to  repose, 

.  surrounded  and  tinged,  by  the  peculiarly  attemper- 
ed light,  of  what  I  presume  painters  would  call  a 
perfect  Glaude  Lorrain  sky.  On  the  left,  is  Que- 
bec, with  its  citadel,  built  on  Gape  Diamond,  and 

*  nearer,  a  glimpse  of  a  part  of  the  plains  of  Abraham, 
with  some  of  the  Martello  towers.  The  distance  is 
about  six  miles,  and  the  bearing  nearly  north-east 
oy  north ;  the  distance  ^by  the  road,  is  nine  miles. 

*  The  ree%  oa.  the  opposite  shore,  is  extremely  well  character^ 
ised,  grejf  waekef  (the  grey  wacke  of  Werner.) 

22* 


I     I 


■■■rtfr-j! 


..'».»»>aSiW7B? 


»m 


> 


■lii'. 


254     TCiTR  BETWEEN  HIRTTOBD  AND  QUEBEC. 


•.!''"»    • 


♦        »        »        *        #        #        * 


After  crossing  the  Chaudiere,  our  road  became 
more  rough,  aud  was  evidently  much  less  frequent- 
ed. In  mounting  the  bank  from  the  Ghaudiere,  it 
was  so  steep,  that  it  was  with  difficuhy  the  horse 
^ragged  up  the  empty  calash. 

Somewhat  less  than  two  miles  from  the  falls,  we 
turned  into  the  fields,  and,  at  a  farm-house,  obtain- 
ed a  French  Canadian  to  act  as  our  guide  through 
scenes^  which,  we  were  assured,  would,  to  stran- 
gers, soon  become  quite  a  labyrinth.  It  was  not 
long,  before  we  were  obliged  to  leave  our  calasb, 
and  proceed  on  foot,  when,  crossing  a  small  river, 
we  entered  a  forest,  where  an  obscure  cart  path, 
soon  dwindled  into  a  foot  path,  which  we  pursued 
over  a  rugged  and  unpleasant  variety  of  surface. 

The  afternoon  was  very  hot,  and  we  were  much 
fatigued,  but  our  journey  was  rendered  less  irksome, 
by  the  society  of  Mr.  H  d,  an  interesting  young 
Hibernian,  who  had  accompanied  us  from  Quebec. 

Owing  to  our  detention  at  the  ferry,  it  was  near- 
ly sun-down  when  we  arrived  at  the  falls,  and  we 
were  too  much  hurried,  to  enjoy  the  Chaudiere 
quite  at  our  leisure,  as  we  yesterday  did  the  Montmo* 
renci. 

The  Chaudiere  is  a  river  of  considerable  magni- 
tude, but,  owing  to  its  numerous  rapids,  falls,  and 
various  obstructions,  it  is  scarcely  navigable,  even 


v^ 


■r 


-i..  ■  * 


\ 

TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  ^UEREC.     255 


tor  Canoes.  It  rises  from  the  Lake  Megantic,  near 
the  American  territory :  its  general  width  is  from 
tour  hundred  to  six  hundred  yards,  and  its  course  is 
more  than  one  hundred  miles  long.  The  hanks 
are,  in  general,  high,  rocky,  and!  steep,  *'the  bed 
rugged,  and  much  contracted  by  racks,  jutting  from 
the  sides,  that  occasion  violent  rapids."* 

Among  the  falls  in  this  river,  those  which  we  had 
come  to  visit,  are  the  most  considerable. 

Salient  points  of  rock,  narrow  the  river  so  much, 
that  its  breadth  does  not  exceed  four  hundred  feet,  * 
and  the  descent  is  estimated  at  one  hundred  and 
thirty.*  Enormous  masses  of  rock  lie  on  the  shore, 
contiguous  to  the  falls,  and  by  similar  masses,  the 
cataract  is  divided  into  three  parts,  which  reunite, 
before  they  plunge  into  the  abyss  at  the  bottom. 

Ledges  of  clay  slate,  alternating  with  grey  wacke 
slate,  and  red  slate,  here  form  the  natural  dam,  over 
which  the  water  is  precipitated.  I  saw  no  granite, 
as  Lieutenant  Hall  mentions  in  his  travels ;  and,  as 
the  region  is  a  transition  one,  I  doubt  whether  he 
has  not  fallen  into  a  mistake  on  this  point. 

We  emerged  from  the  deep  gloom  of  the  forest, 
exactly  at  the  place  where  the  cataract  becomes  vis- 
ible, although  the  sound  produced  by  it,  (at  a  dis- 
^nce  scarcely  audible,)  had  been  for  some  time 
rapidly  increasing  on  the  ear. 

This  cataract  is  grand,  and  wild,  and'  turbulent, 
roaring,  and  dashing,  and  foaming  over  its  irregular 

*  Boiichette, 


fii- 


•f> 


*3P"P 


'■.Ji' 


M>y 


h 


I'-iitev. 


256     TOVtL  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  <iUCBEC. 

barrier — current  encountering  current,  and  all 
plunging  into  a  restless  whirlpool,'  boiling  with  in- 
cessant agitation;  thence,  undoubtedly,  its  iF'rench 
name,  of  the  Pot,  or  boiling  Cauldron. 

Colonel  Bouchette  has  given  the  following  accu- 
rate sketch  of  these  falls  : — **  The  contin\ial  action 
of  the  water,  has  worn  the  rock  into  deep  excava- 
tions, that  give  a  globular  figure  to  the  revolving  bod- 
ies of  white  foam,  as  they  descend,  and  greatly  in- 
crease the  beautiful  effect  of  the  fall;  the  spray 
thrown  up,  being  quickly  spread  by  the  wind,  pro- 
duces in  the  sun  shine,  a  most  splendid  variety  of 
prismatic  colours.  The  dark  hued  foliage  of  the 
woods,  that  on  each  side,  press  close  upon  the  mar- 
gin of  the  river,  forms  a  striking  contrast  with  the 
snow-like  effulgence  of  the  falling  torrent ;  the  hur- 
ried motion  of  the  flood,  agitated  among  the  rocks 
and  hollows,  as  it  forces  its  way  towards  the  St. 
Lawrence,  and  the  incessant  sound,  occasioned  by 
the  cataract  itself,  form  a  combination,  that  strikes 
forcibly  upon  4>e  senses,  and  amply  gratifies  the  cu- 
riosity of  the  admiring  spectator." 

The  falls  of  the  Chaudiere  are,  by  many,  consid- 
^  ered  as  superior  to  those  of  the  Montmorenci ;  but, 
although  vastly  grander  on  account  of  their  width, 
and  the  great  quantity  of  water,  they  did  not  strik« 
us,  as  having  such  jpeculf^  beautiejSf  and  as  differ- 
ing 80  much  from  coinifl^W^taracts ;  that  of  Mont- 
Hftorencii  18  probably  wtthdijt  a  parallel  in  North 
America. 


'# 


>^ 


i|!.»i    II  .ijlllii 


•r 


TQVR  BETWEEN  HARTFOBB  AND  QUEBEC.  257 


The  Chaudiere  is  interesting,  from  its  connexion 
with  a  projected  road*  to  the  United  States.  The 
Canadian  settlements  on  the  river  du  Loup,  are 
seventy  miles  from  the  nearest  American  settle- 
ments on  the  Kennebec,  and  only  twenty  from  tho 
American  line.  A  mountainous  ridge  intervenes^-* 
it  is  quite  wild,  but  is  intersected  by  numerous  riv- 
ers and  streams,  and  would,  without  doubt,  afford 
practicable  passes  for  roads.  A  mutual  good  un- 
derstanding between  the  contiguous  countries,  would 
soon  effect  the  object ;  indeed,  Massachusetts,  be- 
fore the  late  wat,  appointed  commissioners  for  the 
purpose  of  making  a  road  to  the  height  of  land :  This 
will  probably  Ite  effected  at  a  future,  and  not  very 
distant  period,  and  will  bring  Quebec  witliin  a  dis- 
tance of  no  more  than  two  hundred  niiles  by  land, 
from  Hallowel,  on  the  Kennebec;  and  thence  to 
tho  ocean,  the  communication  is  imihterrupted* 
By  this  road,  if  will  be  only  three  hundred  and  sev- 
enty miles  to  ^oston.  Prom  Quebec,  there  is  al- 
i^eady  an  excellent  road  for  fifty  mites  up  the  Chau- 
diere, and  a  tolerable  one  to  the  settlements  on  the 
river  du  Loup.-{- 


•1^ 


•« 


L  ■"■.**■ 


'''It  was  by  this  route,  that  General  Arnokl's  party,  in  ll9fi>,  |>en- 

ctrated  to  Quebec.  ^     -«>• 

tBouchcUf. 


i-'-\l 


jsf;>;V5&,     ^^ 


■^i/; 

4 


* 


•^, 


258    TOUa  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  (QUEBEC. 

It  was  eight  o'clock,  and  quite  dark,  before,  on 
our  return,  we  reached  the  ferry,  at  Point  Ijevi ;  the 
steam  boat  had  stopped  for  the  night,  and  no  per- 
suasions or  temptations  of  ours  could  induce  the 
boatmen  to  put  out  again.  Fortunately  for  us,  a 
pacty  arrived  soon  after,  who  appeared  to  be  per- 
sons of  influence,  belonging  to  Quebec,  and  they 
induced  the  boatmen  to  go ;  we  fell  into  the  train, 
and  thus  they  did  us  good,  probably  without  intend- 
ing it. 

Our  late  arrival  gave  us  tlie  pleasure  of  enjoying 
a  night  view  of  Quebec,  from  a  position,  where, 
otherwise  we  should  not  have  seen  it.  The  few 
lights  that  were  visible,  in  the  upper  town,  served 
merely  to  mark  its  outline.  The  lower  town  look- 
ed like  the  illuminated  foot  of  a  gl^my  mountain. 
It  was  so  dark,  when  we  landed,  fnat  the  dirt  of 
the  lower  town  could  not  be  seen,  and  we  wound 
ourway  up  through  the  steep  and  intricate  passages, 
rendered  ftintly  visible,  t>y  a  few  lamps,  which  shed 
just  light  enough  to  exhibit  the  antique  fashion  of 
the  houses,  and  to  render  us  sensible  of  the  gloom 
of  its  narrow  crowded  streets.  Mn*  W^—  rode, 
but  I  walked  with  Mr.  H— ^,  and  just  as  we 
passed  through  the  perfectly  dark  arch  of  the  Pres- 
cot  gate,  and  issued  into  the  city,  a  flash,  like  light- 
ning) illuminated  the  upfet  town,*  and  w^s  instantly 
foflowed  by  tbe  thunder  of  the  evening  gun.  It 
needed  btitlittle  h^l^^m  imagination  to  make  us 
believe  tbatwe  weifiMi^ing  a  fortress  of  the  dark 


% 


TOVm  BCTWCEN  HARTrORD  AND  (QUEBEC     259 

ages,  and  the  grand  flourish  of  martial  music,  which 
immediately  hurst  upon  our  ears,  with  the  full  swell 
and  deep  intonation  of  bugle-horns,  clarionets,  and 
trumpets,  and  other  wind  instrument^  was  well 
adapted  to  increase  the  illusion.  The  imperfect 
light  served  to  magnify  the  size  of  the  place  d'armes, 
or  military  parade,  in  which  we  were  arrived,  and 
we  hastened  to  the  opposite  side  of  it,  contiguous 
to  the  barracks,  (formerly  the  College  of  the  Jesu- 
its.) Here  we  found  the  band,  consisting  of  about 
twenty  Germans,  who  continued  to  play,  for  some- 
time, and  seemed  as  much  grati6ed  with  their  own 
music  as  if  it  had  possessed,  for  them,  the  charm  of 
novelty. 


#' 


PLAINS  OF  ABRAHAM. 

t  have  several  times  had  occasion  to  mention  that 
the  weather  has  been  very  fine,  since  we  have  been 
in  Canada.  It  has  been  particularly  so  since  our 
anrival  at  Quebec,  and  the  thermometer  has  been 
at  summer  heat,  or  even  above,  so  that  our  excur- 
sions up  and  down  the  streets  of  this  mountainous 
city,  and  over  its  environs,  has  been  sometimes 
very  fatiguing. 

On   one  of  the  fine  mornings,  iwe  drove,  dut 
through  the  magnificent  gate  of$^  liif^^si^t^'the 
celebrated  plains  of  Abraham, 
leave  Quebec,  without  visitii«g;l)ie 
was  fought  the  battle,  that 


■inm 


JMiT  V<' 


260     TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


\% 


ada,  and  ultimately  terminated  the  empire  of  the 
French  in  North  America. 

There  are  probably  few  scenes  of  warfare,  which 
are  more  intelHgible  than  those  in  this  vicinity.  It 
is  very  obvious,  (after  becoming  acquainted  with 
the  peculiarities  of  the  place,)  that  any  army  that 
is  to  act  against  Quebec,  must  encounter  very  un- 
common difficulties.  We  have  already  had  occasioo 
to  advert  to  some  of  them,  while  speaking  of  the 
scenes  that  occurred  at  Montmorenci. 

The  unsuccessful  termination  of  that  affair, 
evinced,  that  nothing  was  to  be  hoped  from  any  ad- 
ditional efforts  in  that  quarter.  The  season  was 
already  far  advanced — the  expected  co-operation 
from  General  Amherst,  by  the  way  of  lake  Cham- 
plain,  and  from  General  Johnson,  through  lake  On- 
tario had  not  been  realized,  and  it  became  absolute- 
ly necessary  to  attempt  something  decisive,  as  the 
season  would  soon  compel  the  English  to  abandon 
the  campaign.  The  camp  at  Montmorenci  was 
therefore  broken  up,  and  on  the  sixth  of  Septem- 
ber, the  troops  were  embarked  and  transported  up 
the  river ;  they  were  landed,  fpr  a  season  at  Point 
JLiCvi,  and  refreshed  on  the  southern  shore,  but  after 
some  days,  again  went  on  board,  and  were  convey- 
ed three  leagues  above  the  city.  General  Mont- 
calm dispatched  a  corps  of  observation  after  them, 
consisting  of  one  thousand  five  hundred  men,  under 
General  Bougainville,  but  still  maintained  his  station 
with  th,g  main  anqyi  at  Beauport. 


'* 


ri-  C. 


H,- ,  •««  #t|<P*»»»«^i.>  *•!,...■,,.   ■  v.»)i»"win>i|Wi»lwff  »'>f »'"»■*  iW,  'I'' 


«•-  >  (• 


T#l|[il^.aiWW«i»'iMil«iM»..*ll»'.^^  flU 

ter  midnight,  G«q«iiiI  Wii||9»<«iib^|Miiir«}i$  4m!I» 
4iK>IM4iiAlPii^wHtt  Omi.^^^  to Jfo^* 

The  ofiiPiaQii  |f«%iii./i^i(»i^v4i9t|QRJby^^ 

and  Ifl^>fii4  1^^  :««•»  ilUiioi;^ 

oppojiiiH  J>9»l^^     wap/lWi#ooii^iiftiottMrf 
dr<^pi|f^j||li|^  pfaik^^  iuUe  A  tbfl  viplaBace  of  the 

fore  ba4^iiati<ini|Pi^^  «acl^i|il«^guards 


i*rj", 


•>m<isiAjit»ii»t3My  "Jl«^: 


:i^w|l|¥ifj. 


v.,  wO- 


if^ 


.f  1 


::s^ 


i 


^yM 


R^- 


Il9i   TOim 


ITAMVmitt  MID  t^Ktflc. 


tyftd  smrvedin  NoUiiid,  tnd%«f  ftmiKdrwitb  the 
ViMfieh  hragiMg^iiid  ewttoffiB^  promptly  replied,  **la 
fVcMeai;"  Tht-iMXi^queBtlonwivmuch  moreembar- 
ntisfiig,fortlve  ieiitineldenitiid«d  **it'qmitigiment9^^ 
««to*^hallregiiii«iii;^  Th«  CaptAhl  %lio  happfoed 
lllciiew  the  name  of  oiM  «#ibe  r«giiiMnli  which  wis 
Ipthi)  mer^  witii  Bcmgaidville,  pronptif  tafoined, 
*^deU  RtiiM,'*-^**  the  Queen  V^  This  M>ldier  im- 
iUediiftely  replied,  **j7«i«#»/*  for  he  conclitded  at 
itrhce,  that  thia  was  a  French* coniFOy  ef  proviaions, 
wht^h/  as  the  EngKah  hid  }(ei«Mied,'^ofllt<i(Mne  de- 
^^HeYH,  \f^  expected  te  pass  di^n^  the  river  to 
4|aeb^;  The  cither  aetitriifela  w^t%  difteeived  ia  a 
^nAM  nfinnn^r;  but,  one,  lelii  titedakma  than  the 
irest^  rtinhing  dowoi'tothe  tiratidr'aedge,  called  out, 
(^r  Pourquo)  est  ce  qiie  vouii  if e  par^  phii'  haut  ?" 
**  Why  dont  you  speak  louder.^  The  same  Cap- 
taHa^  with^j»ef^ct%ieff'-^f^nMiid;  repHild^  *'Tai  toi, 
iiouiserdiiseiitiRdu^s!'*  ^'liifrii^ 
Itod  iiit  diicovered."**  Thesetttry  ii^fied  with 
this  citition  laired.  The  British  bottts  were  on 
fhe  ^idt  of  behkg'fired  into;  by  the  Chiptain  of  one 
of  their  owia  transport  ships,  idio,  igndrint  of  wbit 
"Wfli  going  oir,1!i9^^ 

"fV^Hf  |aird«Mi^^  rowed 

'irt^^iiide'M  ilirsbtif  in#li^^  which 

»wOtdd  bav*  itemed  tbe  tolfn^  and  ftiiatrated  (he  I 


^M^tp^^''  ^  €lill##  ^lE>lfi^iitlthoti^i^|ready  re- 


4 


duced  bf  a 


I  ■:. 


wasfliper- 


.--i.^ife.»:^=.*«-t> 


t-Miii^ 


TOOA  BBTWIEN  UAWrWOtLD  AND  ^VeBBC.     269 


adde4  ^"^*  nevertbel«M  the  .firat  man  to  leap 
ubore.  The  rugged  preoipicei,  full  of  projeclkkos 
of  rooks  mm!  of  trees,  and  shrubs  growing  every 
wheBO  apuong  the  tlifis,  into  which  the  bank  was 
iMToken,  presented  a  aiost  forbidding  appearance, 
and  Geaeral  WoHe  familiarly  speaking  to  an  oiBcer 
who  stood  by,  said,  .**!  don't  beliave  there  is  any 
posubflity  of  getting  up,  but  you  must  do  your  en- 
deavour." There  was  only  a  narrow  path,  leading 
obliquely  up  the  hill;  this  had  been  rendered  by 
the  ememy  impassable,  in  consequence  of  being 
broken  up<by  oeoss  ditches,  and  there  was  besidea 
aa  entrenchment  at  the  top,  defended  by  a  Captaie^ 
Ijuard.^  ^bis  guard  was  easily  dispersed,  and  the 
troops  then  pulled  themselves  up  by  taking  hold  of 
the  boughs  and  stumps  of  the  trees  and  of  the  pro- 
jections of  4he  rocks.  « 

This  precipice  (which  may  be  in  different  places, 
from  one  hundred fi%  to  two  hundced  feet  high,) 
is  stiUvtiy  rude  and  rugged,  but  probably  much 
less  so  than  in.' 1759,;  itean  now  be  surmounted, 
without  very  ;great  difficulty,  by  men  who  aire  un- 
BMlested* 

^^otfeditaked^  aUj  aipon.  a  very  hazardous  adven- 
hire ;  badiw  baen  discof  erad  prematurely,  through 
*  Wi^^tif#B•i^^  ^  lA  s^^t^n^*^  sentry,  his  army 

>rwfll^i(l^ariiij^iin'(Mlii%r  dftHtt  Britlili  arttky,  lit  4i«tic, 
tb«tthif«!i^P||iwb^p|Mi,«|K>  conmran^d  lb»g|«M  •itbit 
fkm,  tai  «^l  Ulfiii|^  ^  tbi  rivff  %^l>  «nc[  mfUrt  t\mn  qji^  bon- 
dred  yean  old.  I  sawi  at  '^<><I^M^  <in  old  officar*  who  was  with 
Wolfe,  on  tbls  'oeeasiaii ;  be  ll^l^^isiir  lOiir  score. 


■  .j;*-, -It  y<Hif*-«f    V   -f  *'*!■•■ 


264    TOim  BCTWSEN  VARtrORD  AND  aVEBEC. 


* 


I '  i 


ii9|ild{^ve  been  inevitably  lost ;  but  having  gained 
tiiiei^iie%btfl^  he  fovmed  his  troops,  and  naet  the  ene- 
m^'in  good  order. 

•  Th6  plains  of  Abraham  lie  Soith  and  West  of 
Quebec,  and  commence  the  moment  you  leave  the 
ijisjalbfof^  the  city.  They  are  a  very  elevated  tract 
of  ground  ;  this  must  of  course  be  the  fact,  as  they 
are^on  the  summit  of  the  heights  Which  terminate  at 
the  river;  they  are  nearly ^vel->free  from  trees  and 
alliotber  obstacles,  and  I  presume  were  nearly  so^  at 
the  time  of  the  battle.  OuF>inilit8iy  friend,  Cap- 
tain ,  with  true  professional  feeling,  remarked) 
that  it  was  *^  ajine  place  fir  a  battle,*^  f  went  to 
the  brink  of  the  precipice,  where  my  guide  assured 
me  that  Wolfe  and  the  army  came  up$  a  foot  path, 
much  trodden,  leads  through  low  bushes  to  the  spot. 
I  presume,  that  five  hundred  men,  posted  on  this 
edge,  would  have  repelled  the  whole  army. 

It  was  about  an  hour  before  ^e  dawnj  that  the 
army  began  to  ascend  the  precipioe,  and  by  day 
light,  they  were  formed  and  in  perfect  preparation, 
to  meet  the  enen^*!!  f  ulj      f 

.tThe  Marquis  de  Montcalm,  iVaS' no  sooner  in- 
formed, that  the  English  troQfs  i^ere  in  possession 
of  the  heights  of  Abraham,  than  Jbe  prepared  to 
ii|^t  them,  and^ibr^this.  purpose  marched  his  army 
aorp^s  the  Ch|ur)es,  from  bis  fntreiifphments  at 
Beauport,  and  between  nine  and  ten  o'clock  the  two 
armies  met,  face  to  face.  Montcalm's  numbers 
were  nearly  the  same  as^se  of  the  English  army, 

*  Except  perhnps  on  tfajBir  confines. 


TOUR  BfiTWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  <iUEBSC.    265 

but  nearly  half  of  his  troops  were  Indians  and  Cr* 
nadians,  while  the  whole  of  Wolfe's  weii  d«s^ijpliii^ 
ed  corps  of  the  best  descriptiom  The  Friuitiill 
General  could  not  now,  as  at  Montroorend,  a^} 
himself  of  the  cover  of  entrenchments^  behind 
which  undisciplined  troops,  especially  if  skilled  iri 
marksmanship,  have  often  repelled  the  assaults  of 
veterans.  -n^.^-  ■    ■    ■    ^■'■,- 

Montci^m  made  however  the  best  possible  dis- 
position of  his  troops — apportioning  his  regulars,  in 
such  distinct  bodies,  along  the  line,  as  to  support  the 
irregulars,  in  the  most  effectual  manner.  In  front, 
among  the  cornfields  and  bushes,  he  placed  one 
thpusand  five  hundred  of  his  best  marksmen,  prin- 
cipally Indians  and  Canadians,  whose  destructive 
fire  was  patiently  borne  by  the  British  line,*  but  they 
reserved  ^eir  own  till  the  enemy,  whose  main 
body  they  perceived  rapidly  advancing,  was  within 
forty  yards  j  when  it  was  poured  in  upon  the  French, 
and  continued  with  such  deadly  effect,  that  it  could 
not  be  withsto^.  The  French  fought  bravely,  but 
they  were  broken,  and  notwithstanding  one  or  two 
efforts  to  make  a  stand,  and  renew  the  attack,  they 
were  so  successful^  pushed  by  the  British  bayonet, 
and  hewn  down  by  the  highland  broad  sword,  that 
their  discomfiture  was  complete.  The  battle  was 
particularly  severe  on  the  French  left,  and  the  Eng- 
lish right.    This  ground  is  very  «ear  the  St.  Law- 

*  ThMB  ulvsncfed  gaards  had  eichanged  shots  for  some  hours  be* 

fore. 


f.m 


#■■ 


tife: 


T&ITK  ISVTWtl/EJif  nxmPVaUTt  kKt>(lVti^}tC, 


r«nee,  atid  but  a^litdedisttmctt  in  front  of  the  citadel, 
and  fiHtheMfeVWitftthiit  pissed  there,  tnust  have  been 
d^inctly'8«en  by  tbose^n  the  trtilfe  of  %iebec.  It 
llltist  httre  be«to  «  niost  interesting  speetade,' and  we 
can  eiisily  enter  into  the  feelings  of  the  American 
French,  who  viewed  their  eotintry  and  their  city, 
and  their  firesictes,  and  homes,  itt  involved  m  the 
issue  of  this  battle.  With  what  emotion^  then,  must 
they  have  seen  their  defenders,  not-onlyt^lling  in 
the  ranks,  bat  driven  by  the  forions  onset  of  the 
enemy  to  the  waUs  of  the  city,  where  they  were 
slaughtered  by  the  bayonet  and  biPoad  sword,  on  the 
very  glacis,  and  in  ^  ditcher,  immediately  under 
their  ejres.  About  one  thousand  of  the  French 
Were  Icilled  And  wouiided,  and  more  ten  half  that 
ntimber  of  the  English,  and  it  is  thought  that  the 
French  army  would  have  been  totally  detftroyed,  if 
the  city  had  not  openeci  its  gates,  to  reoeivea  part, 
aiid  if  another  part  had  hot  taken  refi^ln  the  works 
6v«r  the  St.  Charles. 

Montcahn  was  on  the  French  teft^nd  Wolfe  oq 
the  English  right,  and  here  they  both  fell  in  the 
critical  moment  that  decided  the  victory*  Wolfe, 
early  in  the  ictkin,  received  a  bullit  in  hisifrist,  but 
he  bbmid  it  around  with  hts  fa»ndkerchief,  and  con- 
tinued lb  enoourage  his  troops. :  soon  after,  another 
bidl  pendt^ted  hie  groin^  but  this  wound^  although 
tnuch  m6re  fieveVe,-  he  concealed,  and  persevered 
till  a  third  bullet  pierced  his  breast.  It  was  not  till 
that  moment,  that  be  submitted  to  be  carried  into 


#?..«■, 


tOUR  BETWEEN  HARYFi^RD  AND  ^VEBSC.     S6T 

the  rear  of  the  line :  he  was  no  longer  able  to  stand) 
andJeaoed  his  head  Upon  the  shoulder  of  a  lieuteii'- 
ant  who  sat  down  for  that  purpose— *when  being 
aroused  by  the  ^'distant  sound  of  they  fly — they 
fty,^*"  he  «agerly  asked)  "who  fly?"  and  being  told 
it  was  the  French,  he  replied,  then  '^  I  die  happy.*' 
He  asked  tO'be  sustained  on  his  feet,  that  he  might 
once  more  behold  the  field,  but  his  eyes  were  al- 
ready dwimraing  in  death,  his  vision  was  gone,  and 
he  expired  on  the  spot.    This  death  has  furnished 
a  grand  and  pathetic  subject  for  the  painter,  the 
poet,  and  the  historian,  and  undoubtedly  (consider- 
ed as  a  specimen*  of  mere  miUtary  glory,)  it  is  one  of 
the  mbst  eubtime  that  the  annals  of  war  a&rd* 
From  my  earliest  childhood,  I  had  ardently  wished 
to  see  the  plains  of  Abraham,  and  to  stand  on  the 
place  where  Wolfe  expired.   To-day  I  enjoyed  that 
pensive  satiaiaction,  and  easily  passed  in  imagina- 
tion from  ther^niet  and  security  in  which  we  saw 
these  beaut^til  plains,  to  the  tremendous  collision  of 
ten  thoustnd^tnen  ill  arms. 

A  round  stone  of  red  granite,  four  or  five  feet,  by 
two  or  three  in  diameter — not  a  fixed  rock,  but  a 
loose  stone^  marks  the  spot  where  Wolfe  expired 
in  the  moment  of  vietory.  This  stone  was  phiced 
here  thirty^  years  after  the  b&ttie^— and  is  one  of  the 
fourstonesarranged  in  a  meridian  line  by  the  sur- 
veyor general  of  ^'Canada,  in  1790,  for  the  purpose 
of  adjusting  the  instruments  used  in  the  public  sur- 


#■ 


# 


268     TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  <iUEREC. 

MM:      ■f-  •  ■..*.;.,- 

veys  of  land.  This  stone  has  been  so  much 
rounckd,  hy  having  portions  detached  by  visitors, 
that  it  was  with  the  utmost  diffieulty,  I  could  knock 
off  a  small  piece  as  relic.  Fortunately  the  entire 
stone  is  too  large  to  be  carried  away  and  it  cannot  be 
broken  to  pieces  except  by  gun  powder. 

A  fine  monument  to  Lord  Nelson*  graces  the 
market  place  in  Montreal — but  'there  is  no  monu- 
ment to  Wolfe,  even  on  the  spot  where  he  fell. 

When  I  expressed  to  an  i4nglish  officer,  my  sur> 
prise,  at  this  omission,  he  reminded  me,  (what  in- 
deed might  havo  been  very  obvious  upon  a  little  re- 
flection,) that  the  feelings  of  a  French  population 
were  not  to  be  forgotten,  and,  that  such  a  monu- 
ment might  be  offensive  to  them.^ 

The  victorious  hero  has  engrossed  the  plaudits  of 
the  world,  but  Montcalm  deserved. as  much  com- 
|j&endation  as  Wolfe.  Except  the  massacre  at  Fort 
William  Heni^^,  (which,  however,  it  Jg  said  he  ex- 
erted himself,  although  unsuccessfully^  to  prevent,) 
I  know  of  no  other  imputation  on  his  moniory  ;  and 
in  talent,  military  skill,  and  personal  courage,  and 
devotion  to  his  king  and  country,  he  was«in  no  way 
inferior  tf»  his  rival..  He  survived  long  enough  to 
writ«  a  letter,  with  his  own  hand,  to  the  English 

*  Nearljr  0|^osUe  to  our  loggings  In  St.  Jobn-streeti  i»the  only 
mofiuiaent  to  Wolfe,  wtiich  w*  ia#  hi  Qnebee.  Itlftt  statoe,! 
b«U«v«,  of  wood,  j^andaomely  earv«d«  and  •boirt  As,  large  as  life ; 
it  is  io  the  military  costume  of  that  day,^  and  is  said  to  be  a  good 
likeness  of  Wolfe.  It  stands  in  a  niche,  in  the  angle  of  a  house, 
or  shop,  and  etfKMed  to  the  WnAhtt. 


* 


p*.-- 


%m 


I  ■A'    »* 


TOUR  BETTf^EN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.     260 

General,  recommending  the  French '  prisonernr  to 
his  humanity,  and,  when  informed  that  his  wound 
wad  mortal,  he  expressed  great  satisfaction  that  be 
should  not:  live  to  see  the  fall  of  Quebec,  which  ca- 
pitulated five  days  after.  Montcalm^s  second  in 
command.  General  Senezergus,  also  died  of  his 
wounds; 

Had  Montoalm  succeeded  in  preserving  Canada 
from  conquest^  and,  had  Quebec  been  successfully 
defended  by  his  valdur,  his  fame  would  have  been. 
extolled,  as  much  as  that  of  Wolfenow  is.      *?  ^***i 

This  ;  victory  was,  in  its  consequences,  of  tm^ 
mense' importance.  It  eventually  terminated  a  long 
course  of  bloody  wars ;  it  gave  permanent  peace 
and  security  to  the  English  colonies,  rescued  their 
vast  frontier  from  all  the  horrors  of  savage  warfare^ 
and  even  contributed  largely  to  the  general  pacifi* 
cation  of  Europe.  It  is  one  of  the  great  epochs  of 
American  history.  The  French  dominion  in  Amer^ 
ica,  utterly  mcompatible  with  the  repose  or  safety 
of  the  English  settlements,  and,  after  enduring  one 
hundred  imd  fifty  years,  was  soon  to  be  finally  tes» 
minated*  Thus  a  providence,  probably  at  the 
time^  unseen  and  unobserved,  1^  any  of  the  parties, 
was  preparing  the  way  for  American  independence* 

No  American  can^  therefore,  contemplate  with 
indifierenoei  the  apot  where  Wolfe  fel^  and  so  much 
gallant  blood  wiis  dpilt. 

The  French  had  still  a  powerful  army,  and  some 
naval  force  above  the  i>i^>  and,  in  the  eniwog 


M 


t-m^ 


270     TOUII  BETWEEN  tiMXrrOtLli  AND  QtTfiBEC. 

Spring,  M<}fii3ieurIj«Hiri  upproathed  it  from  Mont- 
Teol^  for  the  purpose  of  recovering  it  from  the  £ng> 
liflh.  General  MurraT;  who  commaniled  in  Que- 
bec, marched  out  to  meet  him,  and,  on  the  28th  of 
April,  1760,  a  bloody  battle  occurred^  three  miles 
above  the  city,  at  Cillery ;  the  English  army,  very 
much  inferior  in  numbers,  to  the  French,  was  se* 
verely  defeated,  with  the  loss  of  one  thousand  men, 
and  the  French,  it  is  said^  suffered  still  more.  The 
English  retreated  into  Quebec,  to  which  the  French 
now  laid  siege,  andj  very  possibly,  would  have  re- 
duced it,  but  for  the  arrival  of  an  English  squadron, 
with  remforCements,  when  they  abandoned  the 
siege,  and  retired  up  the  river. 

How  large  a  portion  of  the  history  of  modern 
Europe  is  occupied  by  the  wars  of  England  and 
France !  What  rivers  of  each  others  blood,  as^  well 
as  of  the  blood  of  other  nations,  have  not  these  rival 
empires  shed !  Heroic,  enlightened,  refined,  learn- 
ed, enterprising,  both  claiming  the  name  of  chris- 
tian; had  'their  efforts  been  e^ally  directed  to 
promote  ^e  w^are  of  their  own  respective  domin- 
ions, of  each  other,  «nd  of  the  world,  by  cultivating 
the  arts  of  peaee^  and  the  vtrtues  of  elvili'life,  what 
good  might  they  not  have  done  I  Birt,  like  fero- 
cioys  beasts  d'prey^v they  vhsve  hunted  each  other 
out  of  every jiiche  aftd  comer  oftbir|^obe;  every 
cdony,  every  little  cluster  of  tradert,  Oftrf  agricul- 
tiNrali8ts-*0very  wandering  bark,  if  belonging  to  the 
rival  power,  ha?  Imen  ^^3i|io9ed  to  these  cruel  as^ 
saults. 


_y 


'tOtFtL  BETWEEN  BUHTrORD  AND  QUEBEC.     2tl 

Iiii$fr&idi'^u«rter  of  the  wofldy  on  what  ocean  o^ 
sea,  »in  ««rh8t  countey,  on  what  island,  or  on  what 
coast,  of  remotest  India  or  Ameriea,  have  they  not 
opened  otjch  others  veins,  till  the  earth  cries  out  up* 
OD  tbem^  for  bjood  unrighteously  shed ! 


FORTIFICATIONS  OF  QUEBEC. 

The  s^ongest  town  in  America,  and  one  of  the 
strongeat*  in  die  world,  demands  a  brief  notice  in 
this  re^fiect,  idthough  it  will  be  such,  as  one  unskil-^ 
led  in  military  ^affairs^  can  rgive^ 

It  is  quite  ohvious,  from  what  hai  been  said,  that 
Quebec  is  possessed  of  great  natural  advantages^ 
The  lofty  perpendicular  precipicea  of  naked  rock^ 
whif  b,  oit  the  south  and  east,  seperate  a  great  part^ 
of  the  iotwer ..town  from  the  upper,  constitute,  in 
themselves,  onithose  sides^  an  insurmountable  barrier; 
the  river  Chillies,  with  ita.  shallow  waters,  and  low 
flats,  of  sand  imd  mud,  drained  almost  dry,  by  the 
retiring  <^  the  Mde,  forms  an  insuperabli9  impedi- 
ment to  tbe<^ereeyon  of  commanding  works,  or  to 
the  location  of  shipa  on  the  east  and  north,  not  to 
mentioii:tfaal#ll ^is groundls  perfectly  commanded, 
hj  the  giois  from  the- upper  town.  The  only  vul* 
nerable^lpoiBt  is  on;tbe  uro^st  and  south,  from  the 
plains  (^v^^Hrahanii  CBpe«  Diamond,  the  highest 
point  of  ^9^WR^  k  is  truoi  is  rather  more  elevated 
thm  any  part  of  the  plains,*  but  the  highest  ground 

*Oiilyt0BorlAeeiifeet.    Kouchette. 


Ik 


'^m 


Mi 


I..y>y».-y  1 1  illil|i||l||||||piJ|||||||ji|li(B^ 


.«.,»#»•- 


!!  •;. 


m 


ml  obstade,  1^  tiiiiM6i>  «i|  lii^  side ; 
j^  »  jlie iR^ipi^,  side.^  ^df^^^Mt^,  hen, 

000  aipii|«^#iib%Jl»liiltM^^<^  or 

HIQ^ar  is  oii«,|j|i(ii«Mui4  #eti^^  «r  veiy 

It  i»Bi«ia4fi|,  jai%  that 

^baye^l^epyjJWMglt^iii^j^^  coiw- 

|^gi«  ii|L  keigbt  anti  t^(^lp^piig^^.J|;i|g^^ 

^?V#h«y  are  hi^0^Si^:^li!l^mfi^^ 


S^S^'^ 


tfMQ. 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFOKD  ANO  ^UEBEC/  275 


t^idlft  woriis 

MIw*  side; 
kmd.-  heT«, 
^lifliVi^  care. 
iiflpH9De  riv- 
I),  is 


|lifi»  walls, 
IP4%««  very 

«^4-*^ljt:';i     ■'■■■ 

Plif  9«od  I9HI 


liM«w»  coun- 
la^mtticu- 


appeared  to  me  forty  or  fifty  feet  thick,  and  equally 
high.  Even  the  lofty  precipices  of  naked  rock,  are 
surmounted  with  a  stone  wall,  and  with  cannon,  and 
the  highest  points  are  crowned  with  towers,  and  dis- 
tinct batteries.  In  general,  the  curtains  of  the  wall 
are  looped  for  musketry,  and  projecting  bastions 
present  their  artillery  towards  the  assailants,  in  every 
direction,  and,  of  course,  so  as  to  rake  the  ditches. 
A  military  man  at  Quebec,  remarked  to  me,  that,  in 
storming  a  place,  they  preferred  attacking  the  batte- 
ry or  bastion,  rather  than  the  curtain,  because  the 
cross  fire  cuts  down  so  many  in  the  ditches. 

When  we  visited  the  plains  of  Abraham,  we  drove 
out  and  in  by  the  gate  St.  Louis,  where  the  wall  ap- 
peared to  be  fifty  feet  thick,  and  nearly  as  high  ; 
this  was  the  judgment  we  formed,  without  inquiry — # 
I  need  not  say,  without  measurement.^  A  deep 
ditch  succeeds,  and  thjpn  there  is  an  exterior,  but 
lower  wall,  and  another  ditch,  both  of  which  must 
be  scaled,  before  the  main  wall  can  be  approach- 
ed. A  storming  party  would  be  dreadfully  ex- 
posed, while  mounting  this  exterior  wall.  The 
avenue  to  the  gate,  is  bounded  on  both  sides,  by  a 
high  wall,  and  makes  several  turns,  in  zig  zag.  At 
every  turn,  cannon  point  directly,  at  the  approach- 
«s;  and  generally,  down  every  ditch,  and  in  every 
possible  direction,  where  the  walls  can  be  approach- 
ed, great  guns  are  ready  to  cut  down  the  assailants. 

*  We  were  afterwards  informed  by  a  British  officer,  that  actaal 
measutement  gave  this  result. 

24 


■  5v* , 


274    TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  <tUEBEC. 

I  have  several  times  remarked,  that  the  promon- 
tory of  rock,  which  constitutes  the  loftiest  point  of 
the  upper  town,  is  called  Cape  Diamond,  and  that, 
upon  this,  is  erected  the  famous  citadel  of  Quebec. 
This  is  not,  as  one  might  suppose,  a  building,  or  cas- 
tle, covered  with  a  roof ;  it  is  open  to  the  heavens, 
and  differs  from  the  rest  of  the  works,  only  in  being 
more  elevated,  stronger,  and  therefore  more  com- 
manding.      . 

The  highest  part  of  the  citadel,  is  Brock's  batte- 
ry, which  is  a  mound,  artificially  raised,  higher  than 
every  thing  else,  and  mounted  with  cannon,  pointing 
towards  the  plains  of  Abraham.  It  was  named  after 
General  Brock,  who  fell  at  Queenstown,  and  was 
erected  during  the  late  war,  about  the  time  that 

liMontreal  was  threatened,  by  Generals  IVilkinson 
and  Hampton.  This  commands  every  part  of  the 
works  on  that  side,  and  is  intended,  I  presume,  be- 
sides the  general  objects  of  defence,  to  operate.  Id 

^  the  last  resort,  on  an  enemy  who  may  scale  all  the 
other  walls.  The  citadel  is  forbidden  ground,  and, 
by  rule,  no  person,  not  belonging  to  the  military,  or 
the  supreme  government,  is  admitted  into  it. 

By  special  favor,  however,  we  enjoyed  this  grati- 
fication ;  the  sentry,  at  first,  refused  to  let  us  pass,  al- 
though under  patronage,  which  commanded  his  re- 
spect, but  at  length,  with  much  reluctance,  he  yield- 
ed. 

This  course  of  conduct  is  usual  in  such  plsies, 
and  may  be  judicious  here,  as  preventing  numeroirs 


,,r.,^ 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTrORD  AND  <iUEBEC.      275 

and  troublesome  visits,  but  it  appears  very  unneces- 
sary in  a  military  point  of  view,  for,  the  more  tlio 
strength  of  the  citadel  is  made  known,  the  less  dis- 
posed, I  am  persuaded,  will  any  enemy  be  to  attack 
it.     Commodore  Bainbridge,  during  his  recent  vis- 
it here,  (I  understand,)  was  freely  shewn  the  citadel, 
and  every  part  of  the  fortifications ;  and  I  heard   a 
British  officer  say,  that,  in  his  view,  it  was  quite  ri- 
diculous to  pursue  any  other  course,  and  to  pretend 
to  any  secrecy  about  the  thing.     Still,  however,  I 
suppose  the  officers  have  orders  from  their  superiors, 
not  to  introduce  persons  here,  for  the  day  after  we  had 
bnen  in  the  citadel,  I  was  with  two  British  military 
men,  of  considerable  personal  and  ofBcial  influence, 
and,  while  they  were  shewing  me  some  apartments, 
contiguous  to  the  citadel,  I  hinted  a  wish  to  see  itjp 
if  it  could  be  permitted,  but  was  answered  politely^ 
ahhough  decidedly^  that  it  could  not.      Idid  ngt  tell 
them  that  I  had  already  seen  it. 

Every  other  part  of  the  fortifications  maybe  free- 
ly visited  by  every  body,  but,  on  the  side  next  to 
the  St.  Charles  river,  the  sentry  refused  to  perjuit 
rae  to  approach  the  embrasure ;  I  wished  to  see  how 
high  the  Wall  was  at  that  place. 

From  the  citadel,  the  view  of  the  river,  of  the  town, 
and  of  the  surrounding  country,  is,  of  course,  extreme- 
lygrand  and  beautiful,  but,  in  this  instance,  the  rapid 
advance  of  evening,  rendered  the  distant  objects  indis- 
t|^.  We  were,  however,  very  forcibly  struck  with  the 
foirmidable  preparations,  which  seem  on  all  sides. 


■it- 


f*.;*^' 


,11^ 


w 


21*6     TOUR  BBTWECN  HARTFORD  AND  <irlBBEC. 

to  render  an  attack  upon  the  place  a  hopeless  enter- 
prise. Within  the  walls,  are  numerous  magazines, 
furnished  with  every  implement  and  preparation, 
and  more  or  less  proof  against  the  various  missiles 
of  war.  Piles  of  cannon  balls  are  every  where  to 
be  seen,  and,  I  presume  there  are  some  hundreds  of 
heavy  cannon  mounted  on  the  walls,  and  in  the  va- 
rious defences.  About  forty  acres  of  ground,  with- 
in Cape  Diamond,  are  reserved  for  military  works.* 

Beyond  the  walls,  on  the  plains  of  Abraham,  are 
^e  four  Martello  towns,  already  mentioned  ;  they 
are  solidly  constructed  of  stone,  and  appear  to  be 
forty  feet  high,  and,  at  the  base,  have  probably  a 
diameter  not  much  inferior ;  as  they  have  cannon 
on  their  tops,  they,  of  course,  sweep  the  whole 
laioy  and  effectually  command  it;  the  particular 
object  of  their  construction,  was  to  prevent  an  ene- 
my /rom  occupying  the  high  ground,  on  the  plains 
of  Abraham.  These  towers  are  very  strong,  on 
the  side  farthest  from  the  town,  and  weaker  on  the 
side  next  to  it,  that  they  may  be  battered  from  it, 
should  an  enemy  obtain  possession  of  them. 

On  the  whole,  as  long  as  the  nvci  U  in  possession 
of  those  who  defend  the  town,  and  as  lo.-^g  as  the  latter 
is  sufficiently  furnished  with  men,  and  other  means 
necessary  to  render  its  fortifications  efficient,  there 
'  appears  little  hope  of  taking  it  at  all,  and  certainly 
•.  not  without  such  an  expense  of  blood,  as  it  is  ^[|Ty 
painful  to  contemplate. 

*Boach«t|^^ 


sf-  ■■*■ 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  qUCBBC.  277 


An  officer  of  the  garrison  informed  us,  that  it 
took  him  one  hour  and  a  half,  merely  to  visit  all  the 
sentinels  on  duty,  upon  the  various  stations  on  the 
walls ;  this  appears  to  evince,  that  the  walls  cannot 
be  much  less  than  three  miles  in  circuit ;  and  the 
same  military  man  gave  it  as  his  opinion,  that  it 
would  require  at  least  ten  thousand  men  for  a  com- 
petent garrison. 

The  cold  is  so  intense  in  the  winter  nights,  par- 
ticularly on  Cape  Diamond,  that  the  sentinels  can- 
not stand  it  more  than  one  hour,  and  are  relieved  at 
the  expiration  of  that  time. 

It  is  in  vain  to  attempt  to  conceal,  that  the  Cana- 
dians, and  the  government,  in  their  various  defen- 
ces, (and  it  is  said  that  still  more  expensive  works 
are  in  contemplation,*)  have  reference  to.ldiiQ^er: 
from  only  one  source,  ,*,      "'" 

It  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  attempt  to  take  QlKfliec 
by  force,  will  never  again  be  made,  for,  if  it  has  al- 
ready cost  so  much  blood,  with  defences  compara- 
tively weak,  what  would  it  not  cost  now  ?f 

*  We  are  recently  inrormed,  by  the  newspapers,  that  these  new 
works  are  going  on  very  rapidly.    July,  1820. 

\  Going  into  a  boolc-store  in  Quebec,  1  observed  in  one  of  Ibe 
Gazettes  of  the  city,  a  paragraph,  copied  from  a  recent  American 
paper,  to  this  effect,  that,  if  it  should  be  ever  desirable  to  takeQue> 
bee,  it  could,  at  any  time,be  easily  done,  in  two  months,  Bithepoint 
of  the  bayoMt.  Surely  such  a  remark  is  indecent,  whh  respect  to  a 
people,  with  whom  we  are  now  in  amity ;  and,  to  any  one  who 
i^er  seen  Quebec,  it  appears  sufwrlatively  ridiculous,  and  on? 
ises  us  to  contempt  ran  effort  to  take  the  moon  at  the 
'of  the  bi^net,  would  b4j||post  equally  rational.         ^, 


jS|^ 


24  « 


■* 


■tm- 


2178      TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  Q,U£Beq. 


GEOLOGICAL  REMARKS. 


The  limited  opportunities  which  I  have  enjoyed, 
of  examining  the  geology  of  this  vicinity,  have  led, 
rather  to  isolated,  than  to  connected  observations. 
It  has  not  been  in  my  power  to  ascertain  the  bear- 
ing and  relations  of  these  facts,  and  this  I  regret  the 
more,  as  it  is  probable  that  interesting  results  would 
be  obtained,  by  a  more  extended  and  connected 
survey. 

In  speaking  of  the  mouth  of  the  Chaudiere  river, 
I  have  already  observed,  that  greywacke  forms  the 
cliffs  on  the  eastern  side.  It  has  never  before  fallen 
to  my  lot,  to  observe  this  rock  on  so  great  a  scale. 
It  occurs  in  a  schistose  form,  at  the  falls  of  tlie 
^baiidiere,  and  constitutes  the  principal  part  of  the 
barrier,  over  which  the  torrent  is  precipitated. 

On  the  road  from  Point  Levi  to  the  Chaudiere 
river,  and  for  several  miles  before  we  arrive  at  the 
latter,  vast  ledges  of  common  greywacke,  rise  above 
the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  form  a  continued 
chain  of  rocks,  of  a  very  peculiar  physiognomy,  and 
very  diiferent  from  those  rocks,  with  which  I  have 
been  most  famihar.  This  greywacke  is  of  a  most 
indubitable  character,  and  varies  from  coarse  to  fine 
grained ;  in  the  coarsest  kind,  the  individual  por- 
tions are  not  larger  than  peas,  and  I  have  observed 
a  very  fine  grained  kind,  with  which  they  pave  some 
of  the  streets  in  Quebec ;  its  grain  is  so  small,  as  to 


TOUB  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.   279 

be  almost  imperceptible.     I  did  not  learn  whence 
it  is  brought. 

At  Point  Levi,  the  road  up  the  precipice,  from 
the  river's  edge,  is  cut  with  much  labour,  through 
cliffs  of  slate,  very  highly  inclined — much  contort- 
ed, and  containing  imbedded  limestone,  which  ap- 
peared to  me  like  that  of  the  transition  class;  but 
my  examination  was  very  hasty  and  slight. 

It  is  very  probable  that  this  formation  extends 
under  the  bed  of  the  river,  and  substantially  ap- 
pears again  in  the  precipices,  of  Quebec,  which  I 
found  an  opportunity  to  examine  with  some  atten- 
tion. 

The  name  of  Cape  Diamond,  is  derived  from 
the  fact,  that  what  the  common  people  every  where 
call  diamonds,  or,  in  other  words  rock  crystals  ar& 
found  in  this  rock  and  at  its  foot.  ' 

I  walked  around  these  precipices,  with  my  ham- 
mer in  my  hand,  and  observed  the  crystals  in  their 
places ;  they  occur  in  veins,  in  argillite  or  slate, 
along  with  crystalized  carbonat  of  lime.  I  passed 
through  the  Hope  gate,  on  the  north  east,  and  de- 
scended the  oblique  road,  which  leads  to  the  lower 
town  ;  this  street  is,  in  a  manner,  cut  out  of  the 
rocky  strata,  and  I  had  very  good  opportunities 
to  observe  them ;  I  continued  my  examination 
around  at  the  foot  of  the  jj^recipices  beyond  Cape 
Diamond,  and  almost  to^f  plains  of  Abraham. 

The  fortifications  of  Qiiebe<^*%tand  principal- 
ly upon,  and  are  composed  chiefly  of  slate  rock 


m 


f 


, 


&m\ 


I 


hi} 


280  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

and  of  the  fetid  limestone ;  tlie  slate  is  high- 
ly inclined,  and  is  sometimes  remarkably  twis- 
ted and  irregular  in  its  arrangement ;  the  colour  is 
dark — almost  black,  and  it  is  often  fetid  when 
struck.  This  is  explained  by  its  association  with 
compact  fetid  limestone,  which  abounds  in  many 
parts  of  these  ledges,  and  is  replete  with  veins  of 
white  or  slightly  coloured  calcareous  spar-— some- 
times fibrous  in  its  structure  and  sometimes  distinct- 
ly crystalized.  I  observed  the  same  rocks  appear- 
ing in  the  upper  town^  in  various  places,  and  espe- 
cially where  they  were  cutting  a  drain  near  the 
prison.  Dr.  Wright,  the  Inspector  General  of 
Hospitals  at  Quebec,  was  kind  enough  to  shew  me 
a  collection,  which  he  is  forming,  of  the  rocks  and 
minerals  of  the  country,  and  among  them  were  a 
good  many  specimens  from  Upper  Canada.  I  was 
much  gratified  to  see  such  a  beginning  in  Quebec, 
and  from  the  zeal  and  intelligence  of  Dr.  Wright 
and  of  Dr.  Bigsby*  of  the  same  department — may 
we  not  hope  that  we  shall  become  much  more  ex- 
tensively informed  than  now,  as  to  the  mineralogy 
and  geology  of  the  Canadas  \ 

The  very  highly  inclined  position,  sometimes  al- 
most vertical,  and  the  contorted  structure  of  the 
slate  of  Quebec — with  the  abundance  of  perfectly 
limpid  quartz  crystals,  occasionally  an  inch  in 
length,  that  are  sprinkled  between  the  layers  of 

"This  Slimmer  acting  with  the  commissioners  of  boundBries  on 
the  great  laliea. 


■!wB 


11 


ofboundBirieson 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  «IUEB£C.      281 

slate,  giving  it  often  an  elegant  appearance,  seem  to 
forbid  our  regarding  it  as  secondary,  notwithstand- 
ing its  association  with  the  black,  compact,  fetid 
limestone,  and  its  being  itself  (occasionally  at  least) 
fetid,  on  percussion.     I  am  told,  that  both  the  slate 
and  the  limestone,  as  well  as  strata  of  wacke,  (grey- 
wacke  ?)  are  subordinate  to  gneiss  mountains,  which 
run  east  south-east,  and  east  north-east,  dipping 
southerly  at  a  very  elevated  angle.     On  the  whole, 
as  the  slate  is  the  prevailing  rock  and  as  the  region 
on  the  other  side  of  the  St.  La>vrence,  is  decidedly 
a  transition  formation,  I  am  inclined  to  refer  the 
rock  of  Quebec  to  the  same  class.     The  crystals 
of  quartz  were  formerly  more  abundant,  and  proba- 
bly, more  beautiful,  than  at  present. 

I  found  numbers  however,  that  were  not  only 
transparent  and  beautiful,  but  crystalized  all  around. 
As  I  was  hammering  upon  a  rock,  to  which  I  had 
climbed,  so  far  up  one  of  the  precipices,  that  I  was 
above  the  chimnies  of  the  houses,  in  the  contiguous 
parts  of  the  lower  town,  a  man  came  running  out, 
and  with  a  French  accent,  and  much  vehement  ges- 
ture and  expostulation,  conjured  me  to  desist,  un- 
less I  meant  to  bury  him  and  his  house  in  ruins,  by 
causing  the  rocks  to  fall.  I  saw  no  danger,  as  the 
rocks  appeared  tolerably  firm,  but  of  course  desist- 
ed, and  came  down.  Indeed,  so  large  a  number  of 
the  houses  in  the  lower  town  are  built  against  the 
foot  of  the  precipice,  or  very  near  it,  that^^the  rocks 
bok  as  if  they  might  at  any  time  fall  and  crush 


H 


a 


0^ 


*• 


282     TCrUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  Ct^'CBE^. 

them  ;  it  would  seem  as  if  they  must  of  course  do 
so,  should  any  of  them  give  way.  We  were  in- 
formed that  a  great  mass  fell,  recently,  and  much 
endangered  many  houses,  but  happily  missed  them ; 
one  house  is  said  to  have  been  crushed  last  winter, 
but  I  did  not  hear  that  any  life  was  lost. 

I  examined  the  rocks  on  the  plains  of  Abraham, 
and  particularly  near  where  General  Wolfe  died, 
for  there  was  an  open  quarry  at  that  place ;  tliey 
were  slate  of  the  same  description  with  the  preci- 
pices, at  Cape  Diamond,  and  I  observed  no  other 
on  the  plains,  and  none  in  the  rocks  of  the  town, 
but  slate  and  the  fetid  limestone ;  these  two  stones 
are  almost  exclusively  employed  in  building,  and 
the  walls,  as  already  observed,  are  constructed  prin* 
^  cipally  of  them. 


DEATH  OF  GENERAL  MONTGOMERY. 

Every  American,  on  visiting  Quebec,  of  course, 
inquires  for  the  place,  where  Montgomery  and  his 
associates  fell.  This  question  I  proposed  many 
times,  without  being  able  to  obtain  a  satisfactory  an- 
swer, till,  in  my  mineralogical  visit  to  the  lower 
town,  in  which  I  knew  that  the  event  occurred,  I 
repeated  my  inquiries,  till  I  ascertained  the  street, 
which,  as  described  by  historians,  passes  at  the 
foot  of  Cape  Diamond. 

Many  persons  in  Quebec,  know  little  or  nothing 
of  the  event,  and  many  more  feel  no  interest  in  the 


% 


f  course  do 
^e  were  in- 
,  and  much 
issed  them ; 
I  last  winter, 

of  Abraham, 
Wolfe  died, 
place;  they 
ith  the  preci- 
ved  no  other 
of  the  town, 
se  two  stones 
building,  and 
iStructed  prin» 


ec,  of  course. 
)mery  and  his 
■oposed  many 
latisfactory  an- 

to  the  lower 
nt  occurred,! 
ned  the  street, 

passes  at  the 

ttle  or  nothing 
interest  in  the 


tOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.     283 

topic.     I  inquired  in  vain,  at  several  houses  and 
shops,  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  the  place,  till 
at  last,  I  was  so  happy  as  to  find  an  individual,  who 
appeared  to  be  perfectly  acquainted  with  the  whole 
transaction,  and  from  the  precision  and  distinctness  of 
his  story,  and  the  clear  views  he  had  of  the  ground, 
and  of  the  event,  I  have  no  doubt  that  his  informa- 
tion, as  to  the  place,  was  correct.    He  was  confident 
diat  he  shewed  me  the  exact  spot  where  the  barrier 
stood,  from  which  the  fatal  shot  was  fired,  and  the 
precise  place  where  Montgomery  and  his  companions 
were  cut  down.  The  place  is  immediately  under  Cape 
Diamond,  and  was,  at  that  time,  as  it  is  now,  a  very 
narrow  pass,  between  the  foot  of  the  impending  pre- 
cipice, and  the  shore  ;  vessels  then  were  moored  to 
rings  fixed  in  the  rock,  some  of  which  rings  still  re- 
main, although  wharves  have  been  since  constructed 
at  the  water's  edge     now  there  is  a  road  just  wide 
enough  for  a  cart ;    it  has  been  cut  out  of  the  solid 
rock.    The  American  camp  was  on  the  plains  of 
Abraham.     Four  points  of  attack  were  agreed  on — 
\m  feints  against  the  walls  of  the  upper  town,  one 
at  St.  John's  gate,  and  the  other  near  the  citadel, 
while  two  real  assaults,  were  to  be  directed  against 
two  other  points,  both  in  the  lower  town,  but  situ- 
ated on  opposite  sides. 

General  Arnold  led  a  party  from  the  plains  of 

Abraham,  around  by  the  river  Charles,  and  assault- 

I  ed  the  lower  town  on  that  side.    In  the  mean  time, 

General    Montgomery,    approached   under  Cape 

Diamond.  < 


MA 


m 


m 


K 


#^ 


384     TOUR  BETWEEIf  HAIIT^'ORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

The  pasis  at  the  £9ot  of  Cape  Diamond,  wab 
probably,  then  much  narrower  and  more  difficult 
than  at  present.  The  attempt  was  made  at  five 
o'clock,  on.  the  morning  of  Dec.  31,  1775,  in  the 
midst  of  a  Canadian  winter,  and  of  a  violent  snow 
storm,  and  of  darkness.  The  path,  narrow  and  dif- 
ficult at  best,  was  then  so  much  obstructed  by  enor- 
mous masses  of  ice,  piled  cmt  each  other,  as 
to  render  the  way  almost  impassable.*  Mont- 
gomery's party  were  therefore  obliged  to  proceed 
in  a  na'rrow  file,  till  they  reached  a  picketted  block 
house,  which  formed  the  first  barrier.  The  Gene- 
ral assisted  with  his  own  hands,  in  cutting  down 
and  removing  the  pickets,  and  the  Canadian  guard, 
stationed  for  its  defence,  having  thrown  away  their 
arms,  fled,  after  a  harmless  random  fire.  The 
next  barrier  was  much  more  formidable  ;  it  was  a 
small  battery,  whose  cannon  were  loaded  with  grape 
fhot,  and  as  General  Montgomery,  with  Captains 
Cheesman  aud  Macpherson,  the  latter  of  whom  was 
bis  aid,  and  others  of  the  bravest  of  his  party,  were 
pressing  forward  towards  this  barrier — a  dis- 
charge of  grape  shot  killed  the  General,  and  most  of  | 
those  near  his  person,  and  terminated  the  assault  on  j 
that  side  of  the  town.  It  is  said  that  this  second  | 
barrier  had  also  been  abandoned,  but  that  one  ci ! 
two  persons  returning  to  it,  seized  a  slow  match, 
and  applied  it  to  the  gun,  when  the  advancing  par- 
ty were  not  more  than  forty  yards  from  it.    Thl«;| 

*  Marshall,^  "^'^ 


*!*■ 


EBEC. 

nond,  was 
re  'difficult 
ade  at  five 
f75,  in  the 
iolent  snow 
row  and  d'lf- 
ted  by  enor- 
1   other,    as 
le*     Mont- 
1  to  proceed 
jkettcd  block 
The  Gene- 
cutting  down 
madian  guard, 
wn  away  their 
m  fire.    The 
,le  ;    it  was  a 
ied  with  grape 
with  Captains 
sr  of  whom  was 
lis  party,  were 
[arrier— a   ^^^' 
:al,  and  most  of 
„  the  assault  on 
^at  this  second 
,ut  that  one  c  ^ 
a  slow  match 
advancing  pav- 
from  it.    Thus 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  ^UEBECw^   285 


occurrence  has  been  sometimes  differently  related. 
Some  American  gentlemen  who  were  at  Quebec 
about  sixteen  years  since,  saw  a  man,  who  asserted 
that  he  was  the  person  who  touched  off  the  cannon, 
and  what  is  very  remarkable,  ne  was  a  New-Eng- 
lander.     He  related,  that  the  barrier  was  abandon- 
ed, and  the  party  who  had  been  stationed  at  it, 
were  in  full  flight ;  but  as  it  occurred  to  him,  that 
there  was  a  loaded  cannon,  he  turned,  and  discharg- 
ed it  at  random,  and  then  ran.     This  anecdote  I 
had  from  one  of  the  gentlemen  who  conversed  with 
this  man. 

That  there  was  some  such  occurrence,  appears 
probable,  and  the  following  circumstances,  having  a 
similar  bearing,  were  related  to  me  by  the  person 
who  shewed  me  this  fatal  ground.    The  spot  may 
be  known  at  the  present  moment,  by  its  being  some- 
what fai'ther  up  the  river,  than  the  naval  depot,  where 
great  numbers   of  heavy  cannon  are  now  lying. 
The  battery  stood  on  the  first  gentle  declivity,  be- 
yond this  pile  of  cannon,  and  the  deaths  happened 
on  the  level  ground,  about  forty  yards  still  farther  on. 
My  informant  stated,  that  the  people  in  the  block 
house,  as  he  called  it,  loaded  their  cannon  over 
night,  and  retired  to  rest.     It  so  happened,  (and  it 
was  perfectly  accidental)  that  a  Captain  Of  a  vessel 
in  the  port,  lodged  in  the  block  house  that  night. 
He  was  an  intemperate  man,  half  delirious  even 
when  most  sober,  and  never  mipded  any  one,  or 
was  much  listened  to  by  others.    Early  on  the  fatal 

25 


i'i: 


7*^ 


^i: 


•':h 


ii'lf 

mi 


11 

■3  ■ 


1  '*/■ 


\0i 


"%',. 


286    TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  <iUE]IEC. 


morning,  before  it  was  light,  he  exclaimed,  all  of  h 

sudden — "  they  are   coming,  I   s r   they  are 

coming  !"  no  one  regarded  him,  but  he  got  the  iron 
rods,  which  they  used  to  touch  off  the  cannon, 
heated  them,  and  fired  the  pieces,    v 

Immediately,  rockets  were  seen  to  fly  into  the 
.  air,  which  were  signals  to  the  party  of  Arnold,  that 
all  was  lost.  When  light  returned.  General  Mont- 
gomery, his  aids,  and  many  others,  in  the  whole, 
twenty-seven,  (as  he  stated,)  were  found  eitlier 
dead  or  grievously  wounded. 

Thus,  I  have  had  the  melancholy  satisfaction  of 

peeing  both  where  Wolfe  and  Montgomery  fell. 

Had  the  latter  succeeded,  his  enterprise  would  have 

been  regarded  as  more  gallant  than  even  that  of 

^olfe.  * 

Probably  the  situation  of  the  defences  was  very 
different  then  from  what  it  is  now  ;  at  present,  such 
an  attempt  would  be  perfectly  desperate,  and  could 
deserve  no  name. -but  rashness. 

The  memory  of  the  transaction  appears,  in  a  great 
measure,  to  have  passed  by,  at  Quebec,  and  I  can 
even  conceive  that  in  twenty  years  more,  it  may 
be  difficult  to  have  the  place,  accurately  desig- 
nated. It  would  be  easy  now,  with  permission  of 
the  government,  to  have  an  inscription,  cut  upon 
the  neighbouring  precipice  of  rock,  which  is  not 
six  feet  from  the  place,  and  I  presume,  were  the 
request  properly  preferred,  no  objection  would  be 
made. 


% 


% 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.     2811; 

**  All  enmity  to  Montgomery  expired  with  his 
life,  and  the  respect  to  his  private  character  pre- 
vailed over  all  other  considerations ;  his  dead  body 
received  every  possible  mark  of  distinction  from 
the  victors,  and  was  interred  in  Quebec,  with  all  the 

military  honours  due  to  a  brave  soldier." "  The 

most  powerful  speakers  in  the  British  Parliament* 
displayed  their  eloquence  in  praising  his  virtuesMtifd 
lamenting  his  fate.  A  great  orator  and  veteraii  fel- 
low soldier  of  his,  in  the  late  war,  shed  abundance 
of  tears,  whilst  he  expatiated  on  their  past  friend^ 
ship  tmd  participation  of  service  in  that  season  of 
enterprise  and  glory.  Even  the  minister  extolled 
his  virtues.'** 

During  our  visit  to  the  citadel,  the  place  of  his 
interment  w^  pointed  out  to  us.  His  bones  (as  iir 
well  known)  were  recently  transferred  to  New- 
York,  more  than  forty  years  after  their  original  in- 
terment, and  now  lie  buried,  contiguous  to  the  mon- 
umenr,  erected  by  Congress,  in  front  of  St.  Paul's 
Church. 


ilK 


:* 


:.•! 


GENERAL  ARNOLD'S  PARTI. 

In  the  existing  accounts  of  the  attack  made  by 
General  .^nold's  division,  it  is  not  easy  for  a  person 
who  is  i^nacquainted  with  Quebec,  to  understand, 
precisely  jfc'here  the  scene  of  operatioa;!  lies,  nor 
how  there  was  ta  be  a  co-operation  with  General 
Mentgomery .  Perhaps  the  following  remarks  may 
•  Annual  Register«  for  1776. 


si 


'  I  ft 

m 


"% 


#: 


208     TOTJR  BETWEEN  RARTYORD  AN]>  <iUEBBC. 

liave  a  tendency  to  render  this  scene  intelligible, 
and  especially  to  those  who  may  seek  for  informa* 
tion  on  the  spot. 

General  Arnold's  party  entered  through  the  suburb 
of  St.  Roch,  which  lies  on  the  river  St.  Charles,  north 
west  of  Quebec,  without  the  walls,  and  is  an  appen- 
Jfgeoftbe  lower  town.  Having  been  obliged  to 
iHtiflon  the  only  cannon  which  they  had,  they  pass- 
^  through  the  street  St.  Roch,  which  leads  in  a 
ioBth  west  direction,  towards  the  wall,  and  then 
turning  to  the  left,  by  the  Intendant's  Palace,  pro- 
eeeded  on,  towards  the  St.  Lawrence,  parallel  to 
the  city  wall,  and  at  a  small  distance  from  it.  Here 
it  was,  that  during  a  march  of  nearly  half  a  mile, 
the  party,  with  very  little  injury,  sustained  the 
jBre  on  their  right  flank,  from  the  walls.  With- 
out regarding  this  heavy  fire,  they  pressed  on 
towards  the  enemy's  first  barrier,  which  was  in 
the  street  called  Saint  des  Matelots.*  This  street 
commences  in  the  lower  town  on  the  St.  Law- 
rence, a  few  hundred  yards  from  the  passage 
up  mountain  street ;  passing  down  that  street,  and 
turning  to  the  left  or  north,  we  come  to  that  of  the 
Matelots,  (or  sailors,  this  being  the  part  of  the 
town  which  they  frequent)  this  street  runs  in  a 
strait  direction,  for  some  way,  and  then*turns  sud- 
denly, by  a  very  narrow  path,  only  twelve  feet 
wide,  and  cut  out  of  the  rocki  jocund  th^t  angle  of 

*  See  Colonel  Boucbette's  plan  of  Qaebeo,  in  his  topographioai 
map  of  Lower  Canada. 


the  suburb 
irles,  north 
an  appen* 
obliged  to 
,  they  pass- 
leads  in  a 
1,  and  then 
*alace,  pro- 
I,  parallel  to 
m  it.   Here 
half  a  mile, 
[Stained   the 
Rlls.     VTith- 
pressed  on 
lich  was  in 
This  street 
le  St.  Law- 
the  passage 
t  street,  and 
to  that  of  the 
part  of  the 
et  runs  in  a 
en*turns  sud- 
twelve  feet 
thiit  angle  of 

bistopograpkwa* 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFOtlD  AND  QUEBEC.      289 

the  precipice,  and  of  the  grand  battery,  which  looks 
down  the  bay  of  Quebec  ;    it  then  proceeds  west 
without  turning.     At  the  time  of  the  attack,  this 
passage,  around   the  foot  of  the   precipice,    was 
exceedingly    narrow,    and   much    obstructed    by 
cakes  of   ice.     Coming  from   the  suburb  of  St. 
Roch,  the  first  barrier  occurred,  before  arriving  at 
the  angle  of  the  street,  and  of  the  precipice ;    the 
second   after  passing   it.     Arnold    being  severely 
wounded,  in  the  approach  to  the  first  barrier,  it  was 
stormed  and  carried,  by  Captain  Morgan  of  the 
Virginia  riflemen,  although  it  was  defended  by  two 
twelve  pounders,  loaded  with  grape  shot ;    one  of 
these  pieces  was  discharged,  but  killed  only  a  single 
man,  and  before  the  second  was  fired,  the  barrier  was 
passed,  by  scaling  ladders,  and  its  defenders  Bed.  It 
was  still  dark — a  violent  snow  storm  prevailed,  and 
Morgan  and  the  other  ofiicers,  being  ignorant  of  the 
streets  and  of  their 'defences,  did  not  attempt  the  oth- 
er barrier,  till  the  day  dawned.  They  then  turned  the 
angle  of  the  street,  which  brought  them  in  front  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  and  of  the  next  bairier,  which  last  was 
entirely  invisible  till  they  had  made  this  turn,  when, 
they  were  instantly  exposed  to  a  tremendous  fire  of 
musketry  from  the  barrier,  and  from  the  houses  on 
both  sides  of  the  street ;  a  few  of  the  bravest  mount- 
ed the  barfier  with  ladders,  but  saw  on  the  other 
side,  double  rows  #  l^ldiers,  with  their  guns  fixed 
on  the  ground,  and  presenting  nothing  but  points  of 
bayonets  to  receive  them,  sliould  they  leap  to  the 

25  * 


^m 


M/\ 


\  m 


m 


290  TOUA  BETWEEN  BARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

ground.  Their  retreat  was  in  the  meantime  cut  ofT, 
by  a  party  of  two  hundred  men,  who,  with  several 
field  pieces,  issued  from  the  palace  gate,  in  their 
rear,  and  thus  they  were  completely  surrounded— 
the  unconquered  barrier  was  in  front — the  city  wall 
and  precipice  on  one  side,  and  the  St.  Lawrence 
and  St.  Charles  on  the  other. 

It  was  a  most  daring  attack. 

I  passed  several  times  through  the  street  of  the 
Matelots,  and  wonder  that  any  of  the  party  should 
have  escaped  death. 

We  can  now  understand,  how  the  party  of  Mont- 
gomery and  that  of  Arnold,  would,  if  successful, 
have  co-operated.  At  the  time  of  their  repulse, 
they  were  making  directly  towards  one  another,  and 
but  for  that  event,  would  have  met  in  mountain 
street,  and  probably  have  attempted  the  Pres- 
cot  gate  in  concert;  or  possibly,  being  in  pos- 
session of  the  lower  town,  they  might  have  assail- 
ed the  Palace  gate  which  Arnold  had  passed, 
aft^r  leaving  the  suburb  of  St.  Roch.  At  pres- 
ent, either  of  these  attempts  would  appear  prepos- 
terous, and  it  would  seem  that  they  could  scarcely 
have  proved  succesful  then,  unless  the  enemy  had 
been  taken  by  surprise.  Judge  Marshall's  inter- 
esting account^  of  this  assault  will  be  perfectly  in- 
telligible, if  it  be  remembered  that  the  scenes  of 
both  tragedies  are  in  the  lower  town,  and  the  catas- 
trophes of  both  in  front  of  the  precipice,  bordering 
on  the  St.  Lawrence.  Montgomery  fell  on  the  ex- 
"•  Lifo  of  Washington,  Vol.  ii,  p.  333. 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  <IUEBB0.     201 


ireme  left,  as  represented  in  the  ^'ignette^^the 
repulse  of  Arnold's  division  was  on  the  extreme  right, 
and  none  of  either  party  entered  the  upper  town, 
(ill  Arnold's  troops,  having,  (after  they  were  sur- 
rounded, and  all  hope  of  escape  was  at  an  end,) 
(ought  for  three  hours,  finally  surrendered.  Rarely 
has  more  personal  bravery  been  displayed,  than  in 
this  transaction. 


.:!! 


i 


\r 


CASTLE  OF  ST.  LOUIS  AND  THE  LATE  DUKE  OF 

RICHMOND. 

The  situation,  and  dimensions  of  this  building, 
have  been  already  mentioned,  (page  212.)  On  its 
scite,  and  on  the  contiguous  ground,  the  French 
bad  a  fortress,  called  St.  Louis ;  it  covered  four 
acres,  and  formed  nearly  a  parallelogram.  The 
present  castle  is  a  part  of  the  curtain,  connecting 
two  of  t}ie  bastions  of  the  fort,  or,  at  least,  it  is 
in  the  same  place,  for,  I  am  not  certain  that  it  has^^ 
not  been  rebuilt,  since  the  destruction  of  the  ancient 
fortress. 

This  castle  had  been  suffered  to  go  to  decay, 
but,  in  1808,  seven  thousand  pounds  were  voted  for 
its  repair  and  embellishment,  and  an  additional  sum 
at  a  subsequent  period.  Sir  James  Craig  first  oc- 
cupied it,  after  this  resuscitation. 

The  enthre  establishment  forms  a  square,  of  whicTi 
the  present  castle  jjs  the  front,  and  the  other  parts 
are  occupied  by  public  offices,  ball  rooms,  &c.  wad 


I 

i 


# 


vm: 


292  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

there  are  stables,  a  guard-house,  and  a  riding  room, 
besides  extensive  gardens.* 

Without  introduction,  we  went  to  the  castle  of  St. 
Louis,  and,  as  strangers,  preferred  our  request  to 
see  the  interior.  The  sentinel,  and  the  servants, 
gave  us  a  ready  admission.  We  were  civilly  con- 
ducted through  its  various  apartments.  They  are 
numerous,  but  generally  plain  ;  some  are  large  and 
handsome,  but  they  are  inferior,  in  elegance,  to  the 
rooms  in  many  private  houses.  The  furniture,  with 
some  exceptions,  is  far  from  being  splendid.  Some 
articles  are  rich,  but  many  are  hardly  worthy  of  the 
distinguished  place  which  they  occupy. 

Among  the  curiosities  of  the  place,  is  a  famous 
round  table,  or  rather  half  of  a  round  table,  whh  a 
circular  place  cut  in  the  middle.  This,  it  seems,  is 
occupied  by  the  host,  when  he  drinks  wine  with 
his  friends,  who  are  arranged  around  him.  That 
there  may  be  no  impediment  to  conviviality,  not 
even  the  usual  trouble  of  circulating  the  bottle, 
there  is  an  ingenious  machine  of  brass,  shaped 
a  little  like  a  sextant,  which  can,  at  pleasure,  be 
attached  to  the  table,  or  removed ;  the  center 
embraces  a  pivot,  on  which  it  moves,  and  the  peri- 
phery of  the  circle,  sustains  the  bottle ;  the  ma- 
chine revolves  in  the  plane  of  a  horizontal  circle, 
in  other  words,  on  the  circular  table ;  this  is  effected 
merely  by  touching  a  spring  ;  the  contrivance  is  cer- 
tainly as  important  as  it  isoriginal. 

.^  Bouchette, 


■ '  :Jfr/! 


ih- 


TOUR  BETWEIfN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.   293 

I  am  not  certain,  however,  to  whom  the  honor  of 
the  invention  belongs,  for  we  were  assured  in  the 
castle,  that  the  furniture  descends,  not  as  public, 
but  as  private  property,  and  is  paid  for  by  each  suc- 
cessive governor.  This,  (if  correctly  stated,)  does 
not  correspond  with  the  usual  munificence  and  dig- 
nity of  the  British  government. 

The  duke  of  Richmond,  the  late  Governor-Geirfe- 
ral  of  the  Canaydas,  is  stated  not  to  have  been  rich-; 
indeed,  in  Canada,  the  remark  is  made  on  all  hands, 
that  he  was  poor.  Still,  we  were  repeatedly  assured, 
that  the  duke's  plate,  which  was  lately  sent  back  to 
England,  was  insured  at  forty  thousand  pounds,  a 
snug  fortune  in  itself,  for  a  private  man,  if  not  for  a 
nobleman,  .*'*'• 

We  were  introduced  into^tl^^uke's  private  study 
and  library  ;  the  latter  was  tk6t  extensive,  although 
the  books  were  good  ;  we  saw  also  his  bed  room 
and  bed,  and,  in  short,  all  the  apartmentsi  of  the 
family. 

We  asked  for  some  personal  relic  of  the  duklf 
and  they  presented  to  us  a  thermo metrical  register, 
kept  by  him,  during  the  first  seven  months  of  the 
present  year,  and  the  first  half  of  August,  ending 
with  the  time,  (I  presume,)  when  he  set  forward  on 
the  journey,  during  which  he  died.  The  register  is 
said  to  be  in  his  own  hand  writing.  As  it  is  not  of- 
ten that  we  obtain  a  document  respecting  t/anadian 
temperature,  and,  as  this  is  interesting,  on  account  of 
its  origin,  I  will  present  an  abstract  of  it,  in  the  form 
of  results. 


T«:. 


m:: 


i'^.t- 


JW 


294     TOUR  BETWKEN    HARTFORD  AND  ^UEBKC. 


Average  tempera- 
A.  D.         ture  at 
1819.  noon. 

Jan.      J7°ab.  0 

Feb.     25     " 

March  25 

April    43 

May     56 

June     66 

July      75 

Aug. 

(first  15 

days)     78 


cc 
ti 

it 


u 


Jan.  14 
Feb.  24 

March  6  2 

April  8  32 

May  25  36 

June  1  52 

July  28  65 


Aug.  8      72 
winter, 


Coldest  day 
at  noon. 
6o  bel.  0 

13    ab. 
« 


(I 
<i 
u 
u 


u 


Hottest  day 
at  noon. 
Jan.  23      4lOab.O 
Feb.  9       42   " 
March  21  37  " 
April  29    64  « 


May  4 

June  6 
July  24 

Aug.  7 
and  10 


72  « 
90  « 
84  « 


86  " 


The  average  of  , 

the  three      j  ^P""^' 
summer, 


22°  above  0 
months,  is  ^  55        " 
73 


ti 


In  January,  the  thermometer,  at  noon,  on  the  5th, 

8th,  and  29th,  pras  4°  below  0. 

I  have  thrown  ttway  fractions  of  a  degree.     ' 
The  thermometets,  with  which  the  observations 

were  made,  still  hung  in  the  room. 

It  is  well  known  that  the  duke  died  of  hydropho- 
bia ;  and,  it  seems  impossible  to  obtain  in  Canada, 
nay,  even  in  Quebec,  and  in  the  palace  itself,  a  cor- 
rect account  of  the  circumstances  that  attended  the 
calamity.  As  the  subject,  being  of  very  recent  oc- 
currence, has  been  much  spoken  of  in  our  presence, 
and  in  all  circles,  I  trust  it  will  not  be  indelicate 
with  respect  to  the  friends  of  the  deceased,  or  to 
the  people  recently  under  his  government,  if  I  pro- 
ceed to  repeat  some  of  the  statements  which  we 
have  heard. 


^ 


■■•■* 


rOirU  BKTWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  <%U£BEC.     295 


ill 

ill  \i' 


I 


oon,  on  the  5th, 


The  person  who  shewed  us  the  castle,  and  who^ 
as  we  were  informed,  belonged  to  the  duke's  house- 
bold,  gave  us  the  following  account.  It  seems 
that  the  duke  had  a  little  dog,  to  which  he  was  im- 
moderately attached ;  the  dog's  name  was  Blucher, 
and  Blucher,  we  were  told,  was  caressed  with 
such  fondness,  that  he  slept  with  his  master,  and 
was  affectionately  addressed,  by  the  appellation  of 
» my  dear  Blucher." 

This  idolized  animal  was  bitten  in  the  neck 
by  another  dog,  afterwards  ascertained  to  be  mad — 
die  rencounter  took  place  in  the  court-yard  of 
the  palace,  and  the  duke,  in  whose  presence  it 
occurred,  full  of  compassion  for  his  poor  dog, 
caught  him  up  in  his  arms,  and  applied  his  own  lips 
to  the  part  bitten  ;  others,  as  well  as  this  man,  have 
informed  us,  that  it  was  thus  the  duke  imbibed  the 
poison,  some  say  through  a  cut  in  his  lip,  made  by 
Ills  razor,  or  through  an  accidental  crack.  The 
duke  continued  to  sleep  with  the  dog,  which  had  not 
then,  however,  exhibited  signs  of  madness. 

There  are  other  persons,  and,  among  them,  some 
highly  respectable  men,  attached  to  the  army,  who 
d^Dy  the  above,  and  say  that  the  duke  was  bitten 
by  a  rabid  fox,  on  board  the  steam-boat ;  the  fox 
and  dog,  it  is  said,  were  quarrelling,  and  the  duke 
interfered,  to  part  them.  Others  aisert,  th^'  the 
duke  put  his  hand  into  the  cage,  where  theilbx  was 
confined  ;  and  all  who  impute  the  e^entto  the  fox, 
declare  that  the  hurt,  which  was  on  a  fingeri  was  so 


f::l 


ft!   ■■* 

k,  if    i' 


h'lvi 


« » 


"*% 


^/■p- 


H 


>■:       1 


^.'.m 


296    TOtTR   B£TW£EN    HARTFORD    AND    QUEBEC. 

extremely  slight,  as  not  to  be  noticed  at  the  time, 
nor  thought  of  afterwards,  till  the  hydrophobia  came 
on. 

At  the  mansion  house  in  Montreal,  where  the 
duke  always  lodged,  when  in  that  city,  we  were 
assured  by  a  respectable  person  in  the  house, 
that  the  duke  certainly  got  his  poison  from  his 
own  dog;  that  this  story  was  told  him  by  the 
servants  of  the  duke,  when  they  returned  with 
the  dead  body  ;  and,  what  is  more,  that  he  saw  the 
letter  which  the  duke  wrote  to  his  own  daughter, 
the  lady  Mary,  after  his  symptoms  had  manifested 
themselves,  and  when  he  was  in  immediate  expec- 
tation of  death.  In  this  letter,  the  duke  reminded 
his  daughter  of  the  incident  which  was  related  to  us 
at  the  palace.  Which  ever  story  is  true,  it  would 
appear  that  the  duke  came  by  his  death  in  conse- 
quence of  his  attachment  to  his  dog,  and,  surely 
never  was  a  valuable  life  more  unhappily  sacrifi- 
ced.* 

The  duke  was  up  the  country,  near  the  Ottawa 
river,  when  the  fatal  symptoms  appeared,  but  he 
persevered  in  his  expedition — tr^elled  thirty  miles 
on  foot,  the  day  before  he  died — concealed  his  com- 
plaint, and  opposed  it  as  long  as  possible — wrote 

*  I  have  never  bad  it  in  my  power  to  see  the  official  accounts  of 
tlie  duke's  death,  as  published  in- England.    I  am  told  they  djlfer  | 
in  some  measure,  fioa  the  preceding  statements,  but  I  cannot  (ell 
in  what  particulars.    All  I  can  say,  is,  that  I  give  the  reports  as  1 1 
heard  tb^.m. 


•»>:'■',.. 


% 


■'•.if^itk'.  yt 


[>    4),UEBEC. 

I  at  the  time, 
rophobia  came 

sal,  where  the 
city,  we  were 
n    the    house, 
)ison  from  his 
\   him  by  the 
returned  with 
that  he  saw  the 
own  daughter, 
had  manifested 
(mediate  expec- 
duke  reminded 
ms  related  to  us 
true,  it  would 
death  in  conse- 
iog,  and,  surely 
nhappily  sacrifi- 

lear  the  Ottawa 
Ippeared,  but  he 
)lled  thirty  miles 
Incealed  his  corn- 
possible— wrote 

Le  official  accounts  of 
r  am  told  they  djffer 
ijnls,  but  I  cannot  tell 
Iglve  the  reports  as  1 


TOUR  BKTWBElir  HARTFORD  AND  ^T7£B|:C. .    297 

his  final  fareV^ell  to  the  lady  Mary,  and  the  other 
children,  in  a  long  letter,  which  contained  particular 
directions  as  to  the  disposition  of  the  family — and 
met  death,  we  must  say,  at  least,  like  a  soldier,  for 
a  soldier  he  had  been  the  greater  part  of^his  life. 

His  complain,  manifested  itself,  in  the  first  in- 
stance, by  an  uneasiness  at  being  upon  the  water,  in 
the  tour  which  he  was  taking  into  the  interior,  and 
they  were  obliged  to  land  him.  A  glass  of  wine, 
L  presented  to  him,  produced  his  spasms,  although  it 
is  said,  that,  by  covering  his  eyes  with  one  hand, 
and  holding  the  glass  with  the  other,  he  succeeded 
in  swallowing  the  wirie  ;  but  afterwards,  he  could 
bear  no  liquids,  and  even  the  lather  used  in  shaving, 
distressed  him. 

Intheintervals  of  his  spasms,  he  was  worfderfully 
cool  and  collected — gave  every  necessary  order  to 
his  servants,  and  to  the  officers  of  his  suite — oppos- 
ed the  sending  for  a  physician,  from  Montreal,  be- 
cause, he  said,  the  distance  from  it  to  Richmond, 
where  he  died,  being  eighty  miles,  he  should  be  a 
dead  man,  before  the  physician  could  arrive,  and 
seemed  to  contemplate  the  dreadful  fate  before  him, 
with  the  Aerotm,  at  least,  of  a  Martyr. 

In  his  turn^  of  delirium,  instead  of  barking  and 
raving,  as  suoh  patients  are  said  usually  to  do,  he 
employed  himself  in  arranging  his  imaginary  troops, 
forming  a  line  of  l)attle,  (for  he  had  been  present  at 

26 


^'„. 


I'll 
■t-i 


fy 


•.f\  ■<■■ 


m 

Mil 


?  *; 


u 


<i- 


w 


lB«i 


299  ^^&  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  ^UEBiiC. 

many  battlesj  and,  last  of  all,  at  Waterloo*  itself,) 
and  gave  particular  commands  to  a  Captain  in  the 
navy,  who  was  not  present,  but  whom  h  j  called  by 
name,  ^o^rer— and  the  command  was  often,  and  ve- 
hemently repeated.  In  a  soliloquy,  overheard  but 
a  few  minutes  before  his  death,  he  said,  **  Charles 
Lenox,  duke  of  Richmond ! — die  like  a  man  !— 
Shall  it  be  said,  that  Richmond  was  afraid  to  meet 
death — no,  never !" 

I  know  not  what  were  his  grace's  views  on  top- 
ics, more  important  at  such  a  crisis,  than  what  our 
fellow  men  will  think  of  us ;  but,  there  was  a  degree 
of  grandeur,  of  the  heroic  kind,  in  finding  a  military 
nobleman,  cool  and  forecasting,  in  contemplation  of 
one  of  the  most  awful  of  all  deaths,  and,  even  in  his 
moments  of  delirium,  like  king  Lear,  raving  in  a 
style  of  sublimity. 

We  were  informed,  that,  even  in  ,death,  he  did 
not  forget  Blucher,  but  ordered  that  he  should  be 
caged,  and  the  event  awaited.  The  dog  was  carried 
away  with  the  family,  when  they  sailed  for  Eng- 
land, altliough  he  had  previously  began  to  snap  and 
fly  at  people. 

The  duke  appears  to  be  remembered  with  af- 
fection ;  he  was  regarded  as  a  very  warm  friend 
to  Canada,  and  all  here,  believe  that  he  had  its  in- 
terests much  at  heart,  and  was  actively  engaged  in 
promoting  them.        ^ 


*  I  WAS  informed  by  a  British  officer,  that  the  duice  was  nn 
tuaily  in  the  bloody  field,  but  somewhere  in  thKliuinediate: 
ity.  '     ^ 


ac- 
in- 


tUEB£C. 

rloo*  itself,) 
plain  in  the 
hi  called  by 
iften,  and  ve- 
irerheard  but 
,d,  "Charles 
e  a   man! — 
ifraid  to  meet 

views  on  top-  .{ 
than  what  our 
e  was  a  degree 
ding  a  military 
nteraplation  of 
fnd,  even  in  his 
ar,  raving  in  a 

death,  he  did 
he  should  be 
log  was  carried 
ailed  for  Eng- 
;an  to  snap  and 

bered  with  af- 
ry  warm  friend 
he  had  its  in- 
lely  engaged  in 


BBEC. 


|e  duke  was  nj 


in- 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTPOUD  AND  QUEBEC.   29d 

flis  family,  consisting  principally  of  daughtersj 
young  and  unmarried,  with  very  ^Lnder  resources, 
and  in  a  foreign  land,  received  the  appaling  news  at 
the  castle  of  St.  Louis,  and  soon  the  sad  tidings 
were  followed  by  the  breathless  body. 

One  daughter  is  married  to  Sir  Peregrine  Mait- 
land,  Governor  of  Upper  Canada,  and  the  lady  Ma- 
ry, the  eldest  of  the  remaining  daughters,  is  spoken 
of  (although  without  any  intended  disparagement  to 
,  the  other  children,)  in  the  highest  terms.  We  saw 
(ire  screens,  prettily  inscribed  with  verses,  and  orna- 
mented by  her  hand ;  and  the  person  who  attended 
us,  gave  each  of  us  a  walking  stick,  cut  by  the 
duke's  own  hand,  in  his  last  excursion.  There  was 
a  large  bundle  of  them  done  up  by  strings,  and  it 
seems  it  was  the  duke's  custom,  when  he  saw  a 
stick  that  pleased  him,  to  stop  and  cut  it. 

Sir  Peregrifie  Maitland,  and  his  lady  and  family, 
lodged  in  the  same  house  with  us,  at  Montreal,  and 
appeared  plain,  unassuming  people.  While  there, 
they  received  the  calls  of  the  principal  military  and 
civil  officers,  and  of  the  most  distinguished  private  in- 
dividuals ;  among  the  rest,  came  the  veteran  soldier 
of  Wolfe,  dressed  in  his  scarlet  uniform,  and  in  the 
fashion  of  other  days. 

Before  leaving  the  palace,  we  wrote,  by  request, 
our  names  and  residence,  a  requisition  frequently 
linade  in  similar  places  in  Europe. 

From  the  gallery,  in  front  of  the  castle  of  St. 
IkhUs,  we  h«si  a  most  magnificent  view  of  the  river, 


M 


*^ 


300 


BETWEEN  HAltTFORD  AND  ^UEBEO; 


and  of  the  surrounding  country,  while  the  lower  ^a 
lay  directly  at  our  feet,  but  was  rather  a  blemish, 
than  a  beauty,  in  the  prospect. 

Tiie  castle  is,  at  its  foundation,  more  than  two 
hundred  feet  higher  than  the  river,  and  in  summer, 
must  be  a  most  charming  cool  spot,  but  in  winter,  a 
very  bleak  one. 

The  duchess  of  Richmond  is  in  England,  and 
has  never  been  in  America. 


GENERAL  REMARKS  ON  QUEBEC. 

A  stranger's  residence  of  a  few  days,  in  a  foreign 
city,  is  hardly  sufficient  to  give  him  any  thing  more 
than  general  views.  Such  views,  accurately  sketch- 
ed, are,  however  useful,  although  forming  but  an 
outline. 

Quebec,  at  least  for  an  American  city,  is  certain- 
ly a  very  peculiar  place. 

A  military  town — containing  about  twenty  tliou- 
sand  inhabitants — most  compactly  and  permanently 
built — stone  its  sole  material — environed,  as  to  its 
most  important  parts,  by  walls  and  gates — and  de- 
fended by  numerous  heavy  cannon — garrisoned  by 
troops,  having  the  arms,  the  costume,  the  music, 
the  discipline  of  Europe — foreign  in  language,  fea- 
tures, and  origin,  from  most  of  those  whom  they 
are  sent  to  defend — founded  upon  a  rdck,  aa(i 
in  its  highest  part?,  overlooking  a  great  m 
of  country — beiv.ren  three  and  four  J[|todredw^s 


'.»^, 


■ri 


'Kis 


% 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTEORD  AND  qunEC.     301 

from  the  ocean — in  the  midst  of  a  great  continent-* 
and  yet  displaying  fleets  of  foreign  merchantmen, 
in  its  fine  capacious  bay — and  shewing  all  the  bustle 
of  a  crowded  sea-port — its  streets  narrow — populous 
and  winding  up  and  down  almost  mountainous  de- 
clivities— situated  in  the  latitude  of  the  finest  parts 
of  Europe — exhibiting  in  its  environs,  the  beauty  of 
an  European  capital — and  yet,  in  winter,  smarting 
with  the  cold  of  Siberia — governed  by  a  people,  of 
different  language  and  habits,  from  the  mass  of  the 
population-^*— opposed  in  religion,  and  yet  leaving 
that  population  without  taxes,  and  in  the  full  enjoy- 
ment of  every  privilege,  civil  and  religious  ;  such 
are  some  of  the  most  prominent  features,  which 
strike  a  stranger  in  the  city  of  Quebec. 

As  to  its  public  buildings,  besides  the  Castle  of 
St.  Louis,  which  has  been  mentioned,  there  is  the 
Hotel  Dieu,  the  Convent  of  the  Ursulines,  the  Mo- 
nastery of  the  Jesuits-,  now  used  for  barracks,  the 
Cathedrals,  Catholic  and  Protestant,  the  Scotch 
Church,  the  lower  town  Church,  the  Court  House, 
the  Seminary,  the  new  Goal,  and  the  artillery  bar- 
racks :  there  are  also  a  Place  D^Armes,  a  Parade, 
and  an  Esplanade.* 

The  Court  House  is  a  modern  stone  building, 
one  hundred  and  thirty-six  feet  by  forty-four,  with 
a  handsome  and  regular  front. 

The  Protestant  Cathedral  is  seen  in  the  vignette, 
ig  farther  to  the  left  than  any  building  that  has  a 


'  "U-iy 


i  I 


*  Bonchette. 
36* 


.»':•( 


.■™i#i<:4i^W.,"4 .. 


tJni 


302     TOuHeTWEEN  HARTrORD  AND  qUEBEC» 

Steeple.  This  is  the  handsomest  modern  building 
in  the  city ;  it  is  of  stone,  and  is  one  hundred  and 
thirty-six  feet  long  by  seventy-five  broad  ;*  it  stands 
on  ground  nearly  as  high  as  any  in  the  place,  and  is 
seen  at  a  great  distance. 

The  Catholic  Cathedral,  seen  on  the  right  of  the 
vignette,  is  built  of  stone ;  it  is  two  hundred  and 
sixteen  feet  long,  and  one  hundred  and  eight  broad. 
It  was  the  first  public  building  that  we  entered  in 
Quebec.  We  found,  as  usual  in  such  places,  priests 
in  attendance,  and  people  at  their  devotions.  The 
building  is  full  of  pictures  and  images,  and  has  a 
venerable  and  ancient  appearance.  It  can  contain 
four  thousand  people. 

The  Seminary  was  founded  in  1663,  for  ecclesi- 
astical instruction  only,  but  is  not  now  confined  to 
that  profession,  although,  according  to  Colonel  Bou- 
chette,  its  members  must  be  Catholics. 

The  building  is  of  stone,  forming  three  sides  of  a 
square,  two  hundred  and  nineteen  feet  long,  and 
one  hundred  and  twenty  broad. 

The  Hotel  Dieu  was  founded  in  1637,  for  the 
sick  poor  of  both  sexes.  It  includes  the  convent, 
hospital,  church,  courtryard,  cemetery,  and  gar- 
dens. The  principal  building  is  three  hundred  and 
eighty-three  feet  long  by  fifty  broad.  This  estab- 
lishment, conducted  by  nuns,  is  highly  commended 
for  the  humanity,  comfort,  cleanliness,  and  good  ar- 
rangement which  prevail  in  it.  ,^ 

*  All  the  dimensions  of  the  public  buildings  am  taken  op 
authority  of  Colonel  Boucbette. 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND 


EC.     303 


The  Ursuline  Convent  is  a  square,  whose  side  is 
one  hundred  and  twelve  feet;  was  founded  in  1639 ; 
is  devoted  to  female  education,  and  is  conducted 
by  nuns. 

The  Monastery,  or  College  of  the  Jesuits,  now 
used  for  barracks,  is  three  stories  high,  and  forms  a 
parallelogram  of  two  hundred  and  twenty-four  feet 
by  two  hundred.  It  was  a  fine  establishment  in 
the  time  of  the  Jesuits,  and  judging  from  some  of 
the  apartments  which  I  saw,  it  contains  very  com- 
fortable accommodations  for  officers  and  troops. 

I  was  particularly  struck  with  the  new  Goal^ 
which  is  a  handsome  structure  of  stone,  standing  on 
very  elevated  ground  ;  it  is  one  hundred  and  sixty 
feet  long  by  sixty-eight  broad,  and  three  stories 
high  :  the  cost  was  over  fifteen  thousand  pounds. 

The  Bishop's  Palace  is  one  hundred  and  forty- 
seven  feet  by  one  hundred  and  eighteen,  and  stands 
in  a  very  commanding  situation,  near  the  grand  bat- 
tery. It  is  now  occupied  by  the  Provincial  Parlia- 
ment, and  for  various  public  offices,  and  an  annuity- 
is  paid  to  the  Catholic  Bishop.  It  is  said  to  be  in 
a  ruinous  condition. 

The  artillery  barracks  were  built  by  the  French 
in  1750.  They  extend  five  hundred  and  twenty- 
seven  feet  by  forty,  and  contain  accommodations 
for  the  artillery  troops  of  the  garrison,  work-shops, 
store-houses,  &c.  and  every  variety  of  small  arms 
for  twenty  thousand  men,  which  are  always  kept  fit 
for  immediate  use,  and  are  fancifully  arranged. 


i 


304    TOra  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.    . 

Quebec  is  well  paved  with  large  stones,  firmly  fix- 
ed. Most  of  its  streets  are  narrow ;  the  principal 
ones  are  thirty-two  feet  wide,  but  most  of  them  on- 
ly from  twenty-four  to  twenty-seven.  The  houses 
are  of  very  unequal  height,  and  generally  have  high 
sloping  roofs,  to  enable  them  to  sustain  the  ice  and 
snow.  The  covering  of  the  roofs  with  tin,  or  even 
with  sheet  iron,  is  by  no  means  general ;  most  of 
them  are  still  covered  with  shingles. 

Many  of  the  modern  houses,  especially  on  the 
highest  ground,  are  very  handsome,  and  in  the  mod- 
ern style,  and  some  new  ones  are  in  progress. 

The  market  place  is,  in  its  largest  dimensions, 
two  hundred  and  fift}  feet  by  one  hundred  and  six- 
ty-five. I  saw  it  on  Saturday  morning,  whidh  is  the 
best  time,  and  never  wish  to  see  a  market  better 
supplied  with  meats,  fowl,  fish,  and  vegetables,  and 
every  thing  in  very  good  order. 

The  prices  we  are  told  are  not  high. 

There  are  a  great  many  dogs  in  Quebec,  and 
they  are  not  kept  merely  for  parade  :  they  are  made 
to  work,  and  it  is  not  uncommon  in  Quebec,  to  see 
dogs  harnessed  to  little  carts,  and  drawing  meat, 
merchandise,  and  even  wood,  up  and  down  the  hills; 
they  pull  with  all  their  little  m'l^ht,  and  seem  pleas- 
ed with  their  employment. 


Quebec  was  founded  on  the  3d  of  July,  1008,  by 
Samuel  de  Champlain,  Geographer  to  the  King^ 


TOUR  BETWIEN  HARTrORD  AMD  ^UBBBC.     305 


His  commencement  was  on  Cape  Diamond,  on  the 
9cite  of  an  Indian  village  called  Stadacon^. 

In  1629  it  was  taken  by  the  English,  but  esteem- 
ed of  so  little  value,  that  it  was  restored  in  169^* 
(t  was  in  the  hands  of  private  adventurers  or  tra- 
ding companies  till  1063,  when  it  was  made  a  royal 
government,  and  became  a  regular  and  important 
colony. 

In  1690,  Sir  William  Phipps,  with  a  great  arma- 
ment from  Boston,  attacked  and  cannonaded  Que- 
bec, and  landed  an  array,  but  was  repulsed,  with 
great  loss  and  disgrace. 

In  1712  the  attempt  was  again  made,  by  an  Eng- 
lish fleet  under  Sir  Hovenden  Walker,  who  was  cast 
awuy  in  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  lost  seven  of  his 
largest  ships  and  three  thousau i  men,  while  General 
Nicholson,  who  was  coming  with  an  army  by  tli0 
way  of  Montreal,  was  obliged  to  retreat. 

In  1720  Charlevoix  visited  Canada,  and  it  is  in- 
•teresting  to  compare  his  account  of  the  appearance 
of  Quebec,  and  of  its  environs,  with  its  present  situa- 
tion. It  will  be  found  that  even  then,  not  only  the 
outlines  of  the  place  were  formed,  but  that  they 
were  filled  up  to  some  extent.  It  then  contained 
about  seven  thousand  souls. 

He  remarks,  that  it  stands  on  the  most  navigable 
river  in  the  universe,  and  that  there  is  no  other  city  in 
tbe  known  world,  a  hundred  and  twenty  leagues  from 
the  sea,  whose  harbour  is  capable  of  conti^ining  one 
hundred  ships  of  the  line.  He  observes  that,  as  Pajris 


1 .  in : 


m 


WM- 


1, 4 


na 


306      TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  (QUEBEC. 


was,  for  a  long  time,  inferior  to  what  Quebec  then 
was,  he  anticipates  the  time  when  the  latter  will  be 
equhl  to  the  former ;  when  *'  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
re9(?h,  (on  the  St.  Lawrence,)  nothing  will  be  seen 
but  towns,  villas,  and  pleasure  houses"—-"  when  the 
shores  shall  discover  fine  meadows,  fruitful  hills^ 
and  fertile  fields" — "  when  the  whole  road  shall  be 
faced  with  magnificent  quays,  and  the  port  surround- 
ed with  superb  edifices,  and  when  we  shall  see  three 
or  four  hundred  ships  lying  in  it  loaden  with  riches." 
All  that  Charlevoix  anticipated  a  century  ago,  is 
not  yet  accomplished,  but  no  contemptible  part  of 
it  is  already  realized.  He  speaks  of  the  beauty  of 
the  prospect  from  Cape  Diamond,  and  of  the  purity 
of  its  air,  and  says,  "  you  sometimes  find  a  sort  of 
diamonds  on  it  finer  than  those  of .  Alen^on" — "I 
have  seen  some  of  them,  (says  he,)  full  as  well  cut, 
as  if  they  had  come  from  the  hand  of  the  most  ex-;, 
pert  workman,"  and  adds,  that  they  have  become 
very  scarce.  It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  say,  that 
be  alludes  to  the  crystals  of  quartz.  He  speaks  of 
the  church  as  being  roofed  with  slate,  and  he  says 
that  it  is  the  only  building  in  all  Canada  which  has 
this  advantage,  all  the  others  being  covered  witli 
shingles.  He  mentions  the  Governor's  residence  in 
the  fort,  and  describes  the  front  of  it  as  having  a 
gallery,  exactly  as  the  Castle  of  St.  Louis  standing 
in  the  same  place,  has  now.  He  mentions  the  Jes- 
uit's buildings,  the  Hotel  Dieu,  the  Intendant's  Pal- 
^ce,  the  Seminary  or  College,  the  Bishop's  Palace,, 


#: 


TOUll  BETWIBEM  HARTFORD  ANU  ^UEtiKC.     307 

and  various  other  buildings  and  institutions,  which 
evince  great  intelligence  and  vigor,  in  the  early 
French  population. 

He  says  the  tides  rise  twenty-five  feet  at  the  time 
of  the  equinox.  Tiiis  corresponds  very  nearly  with 
the  present  estimate,  which  is  from  twenty-three  to 
twenty-four  feet,  and  seventeen  or  eighteen  for  com- 
mon tides :  the  greatest  depth  of  water  is  twenty- 
eight  fathoms,  and  he  states  it  generally  at  twenty* 
five.  The  great  rise  of  the  tides  at  Quebec,  causes 
at  present  a  necessity  for  very  high  quays :  when 
we  landed  from  the  steam  boat,  we  ascended  on  a 
plank  not  less  than  fifty  feet  long,  and  laid  from  the 
boat  to  the  wharf  so  as  to  form  a  rather  steep  in- 
clined plane. 

Chnrievoix  commends  the  society  in  Quebec; 
he  says,  yoa  find  in  it  "  the  best  company,  and 
^nothing  is  wanting  that  can  possibly  contribute  to 
form  an  agreeable  society" — that  there  are  "  rich 
merchants,  or  such  as  live  as  if  they  were  50,"  and 
"  assemblies  full  as  brilliant  as  any  where."  He 
states,  that  "  they  play  at  cards,  or  go  abroad  oil 
parties  of  pleasure,  in  the  summer  time,  in  calashes 
or  canoes  y  in  winter,  in  sledges  upon  the  snow,  or 
on  skaits  upon  the  ice" — that  "  the  Creoles  of  Can- 
ada draw  in  with  their  native  breath  an  air  of  free<« 
dom,  which  makes  them  very  agreeable  in  the  com- 
merce of  life,  and  no  where  iti  the  world  is  the 
French  lat^uage  spokm  in  greater  purity^  there 
being  not  the  smallest  foreign  accent  in  the  pronunr 
elation. 


I'm' 


^c 


^? 


"•iS- v»*t,<S:t''.'' 


U  V 


Bl-     - 


'-^e  says,  that  ahhotrgh  therr  are  no  ^lioh  ^en, 
evety  body  puts  on  as  good  a  face  as  possible;  and 
that  they  make  good  cheer^  provided  they  are  able 
to  b^  at  the  expense  of  fine  clothes ;  if  not,  lA  order 
to  be  able  to  appear  well  dressed,  they  retrench  in 
the  article  of  the  table :  that  they  have  fine  stature 
and  complexions,  a  gay  and  sprightly  behaviour,  ^ith 
great  sweetness  and  politeness  of  manners,  and  that 
the  least  rusticity,  eitherin  language  or  behaviour,  is 
utterly  unknown,  even  in  the  remotest  and  most 
distant  parts.  It  is  surprising  to  see  how  little 
change  there  has  been  in  these  respects  after  the 
lapse  of  a  century,  and  ^fter  sixty  years  of  subjec- 
tion to  a  foreign  power. 

Charlevoix's  comparisons  between  the  Canadi- 
ans and  the  New-Englanders  are  amusing  :  he  re- 
marks, that  in  New-England  and  the  other  Britisli 
Provinces  **  there  prevails  an  opulence  which  they 
are  utterly  at  a  loss  to  use ;  and  in  New  France,  a 
poverty  hid  by  an  air  of  being  in  easy  fcircumstan- 
ees,  which  seems  not  at  all  studied."  **  The  Eng- 
^^^lanter  amasses  wealth,  and  never  makes  any 
su^Vfluous  expense  ;  the  French  inhabitant  again 
enjoys  what  he  has  acquired,  and  often  makes  a 
parade  of  what  he  is  not  possessed  of." 

.  I  will  finish  these  citations  by  one  which  is  in- 
deed nSbstfemarkdbte,  and  accounts  for  the  dreaA- 
fid  scenes  nfhassacre  and  invasion,  which  the  Eng- 
lish colonies  so  often  and  se  long  experienced  from 
^e  French. 


fiTWKEN  HARTFORD  AND  (lUKBlC.      309 


(i 


^English  Americans,  (says  Charlevoix,)  are 
ftversi  to  war,  because  they  have  a  great  deal  to 
Iose;^diey  take  no  care  to  manage  the  Indians,  from 
a  belief  tl^at  they  stand  in  no  need  of  them.  The 
French  youth,  for  very  different  reasons,  abominate 
the  tkpugkts  of  peace,  and  live  well  with  the  na- 
tives, whose  esteem  they  easily  gain  in  time  of  war, 
nnd  their  friendship  at  all  times." 

With  respect  to  the  institutions*  of  Quebec,  most 
of  which  were  founded  by  the  French,  the  valua- 
ble statistical  accou  ht  f  Canada,  by  Colonel  Bou- 
chette,  will  supply  ev'  etail  as  to  the  nunneries, 
the  hospitals,  the  college,  the  churches,  cathidic  and 
protestant,  the  clergy,  and  every  other  important 
particular,  which  a  stranger  would  desire  to  learn. 
This  work,  with  its  grand  topographical  map,  19 
however,  I  believe,  little  known  in  the  United  States, 
^and  is  rather  too  expensive  for  general  circulation.f 


*  After  being  so  full  in  my  notices  of  scenery  and  liistorical 
events,  in  the  vicinity  of  Quebec,  more  might  have  been  reasona- 
biy  expected  respecting  its  institntions ;  the  ombsioo  was  acci* 
dental ;  for  fear  that  our  fine  weather  would  fail  us,  we  p(j 
these  topics  till  the  last,  and  then  left  Quebec,  several  daj 
than  we  had  expected  or  wished,  which  deprived  u«%f  t1i¥^ip- 
portunity  of  making  other  observations.  , 


f  Colonel  BoiiclK'tte  is  highly  loyal,  and  his  zeal  {g>niiftf  nda> 
l)le,  withont  doubt,  in  the  main)  perhaps  imparts  a  de|ilii  <i»f  as< 
perity,  to  some  of  his  notices  of  the  events  of  the  lal»  warftra, 
on  the  Canadian  fnamieis,  and  of  the  policy  of  the  AmericaiB 
government.  These  things  however  do  not  seriously  impair  the 
vnlue  of  his  greet  and  laboriotM  work,  for  which  he  deserves  high 
cofflffieadatioir. 

27  ' 


¥*';■ 


'^i*"- 


% 


4^.*^ 


t^'t  4 


\  _  ■  '        ^' 


310  TOUR  BETWITEN  HARTFORD  AND  ^ 

Besides  the  peculiar,  or  at  least  remartpip^  fea- 
tures, which  have  been  sketched,  Qu^b^e  i's  (Wain* 
]y  a>ery  respectable  city,  and  one  of  tiiojse  piacesoQ 
the  American  continent,  most  worthy^! ^  the  curi- 
osity of  an  intelligent  stranger.  Indee^^y-to  have 
seen  Quebec  and  Montreal,  and  the  intervetilnfr  and 
surrounding  country,  is,  in  some  degree,  a  substi- 
tute for  a  visit  to  Europe.  The  latitude  of  Quebec 
is  46°  48'  39"  n. 

THE  RIVER  ST.  LAWRENCE. 

Montreal,  October  12. — ^The  mighty  outlet  of 
the  most  magnificent  collection  of  inland  waters  in 
the  world,  the  North  American  lake£( — individually, 
like  seas — collectively,  covering  the  area  of  an  em- 
pire ;  already  enlivened  by  the  sails  of  commerce, 
and  recently  awed  by  the  thunder  of  contending 
navies ;  bordered  by  thriving  villages  and  settle- 
ments, and  hereafter  to  be  surrounded  by  populous 
towns  and  cities,  and  countries  ;  associated  as  this 
nver  is  with  such  realities,  and  with  such  anticipa- 
tf(^i|^it  is  impossible  to  approach  the  St.  Lawrence, 
witj^r^pr^nary  feelings,  or  to  view  it  as  merely  a 
river  of  primary  magnitude. 

Alceady,  the  two  great  cities  of  Canada  are  erec- 
ted on  its  borders ;  Europe  sends  her  fleets  to  Que- 
lle, and  even  to  Montreal ;  nearly  two  hundred 
miles  of  interf^ning' water,  are  now  daily  passed  be- 
tween the  cities,  by  steam  l^oats,  some  of  which  are 
as  large  in  Unnage  as  Indiamen,  or  sloops  of  wai*. 


I 


#^- 


ETWEEN   HARTFORD  AND  ^UEBiBC.     311 

It  yii'^^y  no  very  difficult  task,  to  be  wafted  oo 
the  <|at«  LaiiLPeoce  from  Lake  Ontario  to  the  Ocean, 
a  diiitaB^e  of  nearly  seven  hundred  miles,  or  from 
Niagartti%i^ich  differs  little  from  one  thousand,  and 
the  ei^e  range  from  Lake  Superior,  is  two  thou- 


In  that  part  of  the  St.  LawrencQ^  which,  within  a 
week,  we  have  now  twice  passed,  there  are  fewer 
observations  to  be  made  than  on  many  routes  much 
less  extensive,  and  on  many  rivers  of  much  infe- 
rior magnitude.  This  arises  from  the '  great  same- 
ness, which  prevails  along  the  banks.  They  ap- 
pear to  be  very  generally  alluvial ;  extensively  they 
are  so  low  that  they  seem,  in  many  places,  hardly 
to  form  an  adequate  barrier  against  the  occasional 
swelling  and  overflow  of  the'great  river,  which  they 
limit ;  indeed^  it  is  difficult  always  to  convince  ones 
^  self,  that  they  are  not,  here  and  there,  actp!illy  lower 
than  the  river ;  of  rocks,  till  we  come  within  a  few 
miles  of  Quebec,  there  are  hardly  any  to  be  seen, 
and  yet  it  is  obvious  that  there  are  rocks  in  the  vicin- 
ity, because  the  houses  are  often  constructedLjif 


stone ;  for  many  miles  from  Montreal,  on  the^^ 
to  Quebec,  the  banks  are  little  else  than  damp 
meadows,  resembling  Holland  extremely ;  some- 
times the  shores  recede  in  natural  terraces,  and  re- 
tiring platforms,  placed,  one  above  another,  ^^11  the 
last  visible  one  forms  a  high  ridge ;  at  other  times, 
precipitous  banks,  cut  <^own  as  it  were  by  art,  exhibit 
strata  of  gravel  and  clay  and  sand — forming  distinct 


il.''M' 


;.:i?' 


41 


:* 


*-5C»a 


,«*': 


W' 


H|  W^ 


312 


TdUR  BETWEEN  HABTFORD  AND 


and  often  variously  coloured  horizontal  layfl^f  tbe 
forests  are  usually  removed  from  the  immediate 
margin  of  the  river,  and  the  verdure  is  in  most 
places  rich  and  lively. 

The  average  width  of  the  river,  between  Montreal 
and  Quebec,  appears  to  be  about  two  miles  |  but  it 
is  extremely  irregular ;  sometimes  it  does  not  ex- 
ceed«half  a  mile,  or  three  fourths  of  a  mile,  but 
this  is  true  only  near  Quebec  and  at  a  few  other 
places ;  at  other  times,  it  becomes  two,  three,  or 
more  miles  wide.  I  have  already  mentioned,  that 
in  the  Lake  of  St.  Peter,  as  it  is  called,  a  few  miles 
above  the  town  of  Three  Rivers,  an  expansion  of 
the  river  takes  place,  so  that  for  inore  than  twenty^ 
miles,  its  breadth  is  nine  or  ten  miles. 

The  current  is  considerablei^'probably  three 
miles  an  hour,  generally,  but  in  some  places  it  has 
apparently,  double  that  force,  and  the  river,  instead 
of  flowing,  as  it  commonly  does,  with  an  unruffled 
surface,  becomes  perturbed,  and  hurries  along  with 
murmurs  and  eddies,  and  in  a  few  places,  with  foam 
and  breakers. 

phis  is  particularly  the  case  at  the  Richelieu 
rapids^  fifty  miles  above  Quebec,  where  the  river  is 
COinpressed  within  half .  a  mile,  and  the  navigable 
part  within  much  less  ;  numerous  rocks,  which  ap- 
pear to  be  principally  large  rolled  masses,  form, 
wjben  the  water  is  low,  as  it  was  when  we  passed,  a 

*  Colonel  Bouchette  states  tbe  tengtbjit  twenty -five  iniies,  but 
be  includes  that  portion  which  is  full  of  islands, 


w'  ■ 


'jAfttl 


i  IS  m  most 


T<t>1^l|gii:TWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  qUE^BO.     313 

tiBtn&t^meff  and  when  the  river  is  up,  a  dangerous 
condoled  enemy.    I^tirough  these  rapids,  (as  was 
mentioiied  on  the  passage  down,)  the  steam  boats 
dar^  ititlt  go  in  the  night,  and  the  instance  in  which 
it  is  sai4^|o  have  been  done,  was  to  carry  to  Quebec, 
the  news  of  the  Duke  of  Richmond's  death.    The 
speed  of  the  steam  boat  had,  however,  been  sur- 
passed by  that  of  the  land  messenger,  who  had  al- 
ready arrived  with  the  gloomy  news.    At  the  Ibwer 
end  of  the  town  of  Montreal,  the  stream,  compress- 
ed by«  the  island  of  St.  Helena,  is  so  impetuous, 
that  tlie  steam  boats,  which  every  where  else  can 
stem  the  current,  are  here  obliged  to  anchor,  and 
procure  the  aid  of  oxen  ;  four  yoke  were  employ- 
ed, with  a  drag  rope,  to  draw  the  Malsham — the 
boat  in  which  we  came  up  to  Montreal,^  through 
this  pass ;    it  is  however,  not  half  a  mile,  that  the 
river  is    so    rapid,  for  after    passing  this  place, 
steam  carries  the  boats  on  again  to  their  moorings, 
at  the  upper  end  of  the  town.     It  requires  a  very 
strong  wind  to  carry  vessels  with  sails  against  this 
current.     I  saw  some  vessels  here  which  enjoyed 
this  advantage,  and  for  one  hour,  I  could  not  Mf'^"' 
ceive  that  they  made  any  head  way. 

The  population  on  the  river  is  very  considerable, 
nearly  all  the  way  between  the  two  cities,  so  that 
on  both  sides,  houses  or  villages  are  almost  t;on<- 
stantly  in  view.  There  are,  however,  but  two 
towns  of  any  magnitude,  both  of  which  iiave  been 
mentioned— ^orel,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  the 

27* 


,t' 


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n 


% 


m 


4^VV 


Ml 


314    TOVA  ■STWEEK   MAJlTrdRB   AND 

same  name,  and  which  conaects  Lake  C^||Aplain 
with  the  St.  Lawrence,  forty^five  milea  below  Mon- 
treal, and  the  Trois  Rivieres  or  Three  'livers,*  half 
wigr  between  Quebec  and  Montreal.  Thos  largo 
town  derives  its  whimsical  name,  irom  th&^t  that 
the  river  St.  Maurice,  which  empties  here,  is  divi- 
ded at  its  mouth,  by  little  islands,  into  three  part?, 
so  that  there  seem  to  be  three  rivers  instead  of  one. 

M6st  of  the  hous6s  on*  both  banks  of  the  St. 
Lawrence^  as  well  as  in  the  vicinity  of  Quebec,  are 
white,  roof  and  all ;  the  roofs  of  houses  in  Canada, 
being,  frequently  protected  from  fire,  as  well  as  beau- 
tified, by  a  white  wash  of  salt  and  lime  or  of  lime 
only,  which  is  renewed  every  year. 

There  are  many  villages  on  the  river,  some  arc 
large  and  populous,  and  most  of  them  are  furnished 
with  pretty,  and  a  few  with  grand  churches ;  they 
have  from  one  spire  to  three,  and  havii^  generally 
a  brilliant  covering  of  tin,  both  on  the  roofs  and 
spires,  they  blaze  in  the  sun,  and  even  at  the  dis- 
tance of  miles,  dazele  the  eyes  of  the  beholder. 
Some  other  public  buildings,  and  the  best  private 
ho^ses  on  the  banks,  are  occasionally  covered  in 
the^^iEime  manj^r.  Most  of  the  cottages  are  only 
one  story  high,  and  are  small;  1»ut,  large  and  good 
houseik^appearing  like  the  residences  of  the  seigneurs 
and  >  other  eQuntry  gentlemen,  are  hardly  ever 
out  of  tjPight.  The  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  thus 
verdant  and  beautiful  from  cultivation, .and Recked 
every  where  wii^  brilliant  white  h^iises,  and  pretty 
*  The  tide  ceases  near  tbiaJM^e. 


%.^ 
^.w 


■PBV 


T0|]||J^GTWEER  BARTrORD  AND  qVEBEC. 


315 


?illa|f?iinpress  a  traveUcr verypleasantly,  although 
he  finds  but  little  variety  in^  the  view^.  I  have 
omiuecl  to  mention,  that  from  the  rapids  of  Ri<^e- 
lieu»'§nn!|  llown  the  river,  the  banks  almost  imme- 
diatie|jr  )>ecome  considerably  more  elevated. 

»  ■ 

STEAM  BOATS 

Although  there  are  rOads,  saiid  to  be  good,  on  both 
sides  of  the  St.  Lawrence^  it  was,,  till  within  five  or 
six  years,  a  considerably  arduous  undertaking,  to 
travel,  back  and  forward,  between  tlie  two  cities  of 
Canada.  By  land,  in  the  slow  Canadian  Calash, 
it  was  tedious,  and  although  down  the  river  from 
Montreal  to  Quebec,  it  was  obviously  no  difficult 
thing  to  go  with  the  current — to  return  by  water, 
was  always  difficult.  With  head  winds  it  was^^  of 
course,  impossible  to  cucenidf  nor,  with  strong  bead 
winds  couid  they  always  descend,  even  with  the  aid 
of  the  stream. 

Quebet  and  Montreal,  were  therefore  a  great 
way  apart,  as  regarded  facility  of  intercourse ;  now 
they  are,  in  this  respect  very  near,  and  it  is  possfble 
to  vish  ehher  city  from  the  other,  qiyte  comforifply 
and  at«ase'-^to  transact  business  and  return^  i9j|ii»a 
the  period  of  fo|ir  days,  although  the  distancl^is  on% 
hundred  and  eighty  miles.  This  woodetfulllcility 
has  been  impio'ted  by  steam  boats,  of  which  no 
fewer  than^even,  now  ply  between  Montreid  and 
Quebec^-^they  are  named,    Malshaai,   Swiftsure, 


'^ 


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w 

f 


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» 


'U 


31U     TOUR  BETWEEN  UARTTOUD  AND  aUlltEC. 

Lady  Sherbrookr  Quebec,  Telegraph,  Car  WConb- 
merce  and  Caledonia. 

The  burden  of  the  Malsham  is  over  six  hundred 
toiif^  and  that  of  the  Lady  Sherbroolfr,  was  stated  to 
us,  at  about  eight  hundred ;  these  are  the  largest, 
and  most  of  the  others  are  considerably  smaller. 

They  are  built  with  deep  holds  for  freight, 
which  appears  to  be  much  more  an  object  with 
them  than  passengers.  Going  down  in  the  Swift- 
sure,  of  between  three  and  four  hundred  Hons, 
we  had  but  about  a  dozen  cabin  passengers,  and  re- 
turning in  the  Malsham  we  had  but  fopr.  The  ac- 
commodations are  good,  and  the  provision  for  the 
table  ample — for  dinner  it  is  luxurious — there  is  a 
lunch  at  noon,  for  dinner  is  at  four  o'clock,  and  tea 
at  eight ;  breakfast  also  at  eight  o'clock. 
.. :  The  Captains  of  the  boats  partake  in  all  the  good 
things ;  some  of  them  at  least,  are  convivial  with 
their  guests,  and  sit  long  to  drink  wine,  which  is  the 
common  practice  in  Canada. 

Some  of  them  appear  to  be  in  danger  from  reple- 
tion ;  they  have  but  little  bodily  exercise,  and 
swimming  as  they  do  in  a  sea  6f  luxury,  it  is  not 
extiaordinary  that  they  exhibit  the  physical  effects 
of l^d  living;  they  are,  however,  very  obliging 
and  cflurteous  to  their  passengers^^  who  are  made 
perfectly  comfortable,  on  board  of  their  boats* 

^be  machinery  is  situated  deep  in,  the  hold,  and 
appliit!^  but  lit^e  above  deck;  this  oirGuiQstance, 
with  the  d€»li^  ofthe  huU,and  the  burden  oi^  freight 


.•l^;,,**?*' 


s#* 


'.•H^t" ' 


*5P? 


TOI^K  BBTWKKM  HASLT¥OKD  AM9  HVKBEC.      317 

which  the  boats  carry,  caases  them  to  move  much 
more  ateadily  than  ours  do. 

On  board  the  Malsham  we  could  scarcely  |>iir-^ 
eeive  the  jar  of  the  machinery ;  there  being  no 
ladies  on  board,  Mr.  W  and  myself  were  per- 
mitted to  appropriate  the  after  cabin,  a  very  pretty 
room,  where  with  a  comfortable  fire,  we  enjoyed 
even  domestic  rethement,  and  were  allowed  to  oc- 
cupy our  time  as  we  pleased. 

We  were  told,  that  the  Lady  Sherbrook  was  the 
finest  boat  in  the  line,  but  we  were  not  on  board  of 
her. 

The  fuel  for  the  boats  costs  about  two  dollars  and 
fifty  cents  the  cord,  and  they  stop  twice,  once  at 
Sorel,  and  once  at  the  Three  Rivers,  to  take  it  in. 

The  passage  costs  ten  dollars  down  to  Quebec^ 
and  twelve  returning }  we  were  on  board  two  nights, 
and  one  day,  in  going  down,  and  two  days  and  three 
nights  in  returning ;  but  a  part  of  ivi^o  of  thd  nights, 
in  the  last,  and  of  one  of  them  in  the  first,  was  spent 
in  the  dock. 

Steam  boat  businiss  has  been  very  profitable  on 
this  river;  but  is  now  said  to  be  otherwise,  owing 
principally  to  its  being  overdone. 

DANGERS  OF  STEAM  BOATS. 

The  catastrophes  produced  by  the  explosion  of 
the  boilers  of  steam  boats,  having  now  become 
rare,  the  attentioii  of  the  puUic,  in  consequence  of 


^ 


' '■■  "''"SES^      1^3 


'PP^R^ 


318     TOUR  BET««£I:N  HARTrOllO  AND   ^VlBKC. 

*  several  unhapp/  occurrences,  and  especially  of  the 
late  dreadful  one,  on  lake  Chainplain,  has  been  di- 
,rected  to  the  dangers  of  fire.  The  active  volcano 
which  the  steam  boat  necessarily  carries  in  her 
bowels,  seems  sufficiently  appalling,  and  few  per- 
sons, when  first  beginning  to  travel  in  this  way,  can 
lie  down  to  sleep,  without  deeply  pondering,  that  a 
furious  imprisoned  enemy,  is  raging  within  the  com- 
bustible vehicle,  that  bears  them  along,  and  that 
both  fire  and  water,  usually  foes,  but  here  leagued 
in  unnatural  alliance,  may  conspire  for  their  de- 
struction. Karely,  however,  does  it  appear  to  have 
occurred  to  the  traveller,  that  the  most  serious  dan- 
ger (as  tlie  thing  is  actually  managed^)  arises  from 

Jtist  that  negligence,  and  presumption,  and  apathy, 
wliich  destroy  so  many  buildings,  so  much  proper- 
ty, and  80  many  lives  on  shore. 

I  am  sorry  to  say,  that  in  the  boats  on  these 
northern  waters,  there  is  not  that  degree  of  rare  and 
anxious  vigilance  which  the  case  certainly  demands, 
where  so  much  property  and  so  many  lives  are  at 
stake.  The'  Phoenix,  as  I  Hive  before  observed, 
was,  without  doult.  destroyed  by  a  candle ;   still 

^fondles  are  negligently  left  on  board  of  most  of  the 
boats  in  the  northern  waters ;  fires  and  candles  arc 

4iot  adequately  watched  on  the  S#  Lawrence,  and 
we  have  seen  in  one  of  thd  Canadian  boats,  a  fire 
made  in  an  open  stove,  standing  without  a  chimney, 
on  the  naked  deck,  while  the  coals  were  every  mo- 
ment blowing  against  pine  spurs,  Imd  fftlliii§;  on  the 


-'^^■'jm' 


'<*,■, 


:  iSfc-'i^'-'' 


I'tsi/tei 


f 


\,. 


TOUR  BITWCEH  HAATFORU  AND  (iUEBBC.     319 

deck,  which  was  made  of  dry  pine  and  covered 
with  pitch.  We  were  also  exposed  to  danger  from 
a  very  unexpected 

INCIDENT. 

On  our  passage  up  the  river,  in  a  northeasterly 
torm,  just  as  we  were  entering  the  Richelieu  rap- 
ids, where  we  needed  all  our  power  to  stem  the 
current,  and  any  disaster  would  be  peculiarly  em- 
barrassing, we  were  pressing  on,  not  only  with  pow- 
erful steam,  but  with  a  strong  and  fair  wind,  which 
strained  every  thread  of  our  large  square  sail,  the 
only  one  which  wccarried.  Our  mast,  apparently 
about  fifty  feet  high,  and  of  proportionate  diameter, 
was,  it  seemsj  only  feebly  braced  from  the  bow,  al- 
though perhaps  sufficiently  in  the  other  direction. 

The  Captain,  having  been  up  the  preceding  night, 

I  was  asleep  below :    I  was  on  deck,  and  observed 

that  our  mast,  with  its  feeble  shrouds,  was  strained 

to  the  utmost,  and  felt  some  anxiety  lest  it  should 

I  fail.    Going  below,  I%as  scarcely  seated,  before  a 

I  crash  and  an  outcry  brought  roe  again  on  deck. 

The  wind,  it  appears,  suddenly  flirted  around, 
[and  a  violent  squall  from  an  angry  cloud,  instantly 
threw  the  gall  all  loack  upon  the  mast ;  there  being 
[no  adequate  stays  or  braces  to  sustain  the  solitary 
[pine,  it  snapped,  Wne  a  pipe's  tail ;  the  two  chindnies 
rere  a  few  jrardii^hind  ;  the  heavy  spar  whichmip* 
[ported  $h%  sail  li  top,  Ij^ling  ^leHtly  across  one«f 


jiUii^V'IfiPi?- ' 


m 


$20  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORB  AND  QUEBEC. 

the  <ihiinnies,  was  broken  quite  in  two ;  the  mast 
also,  in  its  fall,  broke  the  horizontal  iron  rods,  which 
crossed  each  other  and  were  fastened  to  some  high 
frame  work,  to  sustain  the  chimnies ;  the  sail  fell  over 
the  mouths  of  both  chimnies,  and  shut  them  up  com- 
pletely, and  from  the  top  of  one  of  them,  sus- 
tained by  the  cords  which  fastened  them  to  the  sail, 
hung  the  two  broken  pieces  of  the  yard,  probably 
forty  feet  in  length. 

The  Captain  could  not  be  immediately  found : 
the  Canadiafk  seamen  who  managed  the  boat,  vocif- 
erated most  mriously  in  French,  but  seemed  utterly 
confounded,  and  without  resource,  and  some  feeble 
attempts  which  they  made  to  disengage  the  sail 
from  the  chimfiios,  only  pulled  it  more  entirely  over 
ibem.    In  the  mean  time,  the  wind,  which  continu* 
ed  to  blow  violently,  jerked  the  sail  and  its  broken  j 
spars  with  so  much  force,  that  there  was  much  dan- 
ger that  the  chimnies  would  go  by  the  board  ;  in  I 
which  case,  our  furnaces,  being  in  full  action  below, 
would  throw  out  their  flame  hnmediately  upon  the 
deck,  and  upon  the  tierces  of  gin,  by  which  >t  was! 
covered,  even  close  to  the  chimnies.    There  ap- 
peared to  be  nearly  one  hundred  of  these  tierces^l 
aod  the  explosion  of  any  one  of  them,  which  would! 
probably  occur  if  struck  by  the  '#re,  would  involve| 
us  in  sheets  of  flame  ;  and  shoulii  «re  even  succeed 
in  extinguishing  the  fii^',  our  lioatf  without  either 
steam  or  sail,  wouM  be  completeljni^|iiaBtge<ible,  ad 
be  liable  ta  be  ii^fii|^  a||i^i»|^ 


;•%«(' 


'^' 


TOUR  BETWEEN  tfARTFOXU)  AND  QUEBEC. 


In  this  moment  of  anxiety,  (while  a  poor  Scotch 
emigrant,  whose  all  was  on  board,  was  weeping  and 
wringing  his  hands,  and  exclaiming  that  we  -should 
all  be  lost,)  the  Captain  arrived  on  deck.  The 
wind  worried  the  sail  across  the  top  of  one  of  the 
chimnies,  which  was  cut  into  points  like  a  picket 
fence,  so  that  the  canvass  was  soon  completely 
perforated,  and  the  chimney  stood  up  through  it, 
like  a  head  in  a  pillory.  The  other  chimney  was 
so  battered  by  the  fall  of  the  yard,  that  it  could 
not  pierce  the  sail,  especially  as  it  was  guarded  at 
tliat  part  by  a  strong  rope,  and  eve^  effort  to 'dis- 
engage it  failed.  It  was  easy  to  foresee  what  must 
follovr:  the  sail,  which  being  wet  with  rain,  for 
some  time  resisted  the  heat,  now  became  so  dried, 
that  it  took  fire  and  blazed*  The  Captain  sent  ii^ 
one  of  the  sailors  to  cut  it  away,  and  the  man,  witli 
sufficient  hardihood,  crawled  up  and  worked  where 
it  was  on  fire  all  around  him.  At  length,  by  burn- 
iog,  it  fell  from  the  chimney,  and  we  were  extrica- 
ted from  our  unpleasant  situation.  If,  however,  the 
sail,  the  fuel. on  dect^  and  every  part  of  the  boat 
had  been  dry,  and  especially,  had  the  accident  oc- 
curred in  the  night,  the  consequences  mighi  have 
been  very  painful.  But  there  was  an  eye  superior 
to  human  vigilance)  whiclt  watched  over  our  safety. 

Immediate^  t^er  this  accident,  we  had  a  good 
)f  of  the.^noiatitier  in  which  science  and  art  can 
fsometimes  trnxmp|  over  the  obstacles  of  nature. 
I  We  entefed  ^  f  aiiii^Qf  RlillH«u,  BOt  only  with 


■    9» 


m 


^m 


W' 


W'' 


MH 


J- 


■* 


TOUB  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AKD  QUEBEC. 

an  opposing  current  of  great  strength,  but  with  a 
strong  head  wind ;  but  still,  by  the  force  of  steam 
alone,  we  fought  our  way  through,  and  indeed  the 
same  wind  continued  through  the  remainder  of  our 
passage. 

A  NIGHT  SCENE  ON  THE  ^.  LAWRENCE. 

The  long  twilight  of  this  climate,  which,  (as  ob- 
served at  Montreal,)  in  a  degree  compensates  for 
the  shortnes^of  the  days,  was  exhausted  ;  the  cot- 
tages and  viIi||lBS  on  shore  cast  their  evening  light 
on  the  river;  the  waning  moon,  reduced  to  less 
than  half  her  full  size,  had  just  risun  over  our  stern, 
dUd  cast  a  feeble  radiance  on  the  flood  and  the 
ii^es ;  the  stars,  unobscui^  by  a  single  cloud, 
Were  bright  as  gems  in  the  azure  vault ;  the  galaxy 
was  delicately  traced  atliwart  the  sky — all  was  still- 
ness, except  the  dashing^  of  the  water  wheels,  the 
cry  of  the  steersman,  and  the  occasional  song  of  the 
Canadian  boatmen;  when  the. «uiora  borealis  ap- 
peared, under  circumstances  #hich  I  never  before 
witnessed. 

Not  only  was  there  a  delicate  glow  in  the  lower 
part  of  the  northern  portion  of  the  sky,  similar  to 
that  seen  through  a  transparency,  but  there  were 
shoots  of  light  darting  upward  like  irery  feeble 
flames,  now  elongating,  now  rei^ding,  atid  chang- 
ing their  places,^  . 

After  being  a  Mi^lliile  l^w,  I  was  delighted, 
on  returning,  to  see  8'sone  of  U^t  {lissliig  through 


v^- 


])M- 


*..«• 


^w■-'^■^^0lm 


%» 


»  (lUEBEC. 


iWRENCE. 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HAETFORD  \NI    QUEBEC.     323 

the  zenith,  extending  across  the  entire  heavens,  m- 
tersecting  the  milky  way  very  obliquely,  greatly, 
surpassing  it  in  brightness,  and  forming  a  beautiful 
glowing  belt. 

At  this  moment,  our  two  chimnies  emitted  vol- 
umes of  smoke,  succeeded  by  flame,  and  a  long 
{'  stream  of  brilliant  sparks,  carried  far  astern  by  the 
wind,  illuminated  the  deck  and  the  water. 

The  Lady  Sherbrooke  going  down  the  river,         I 
glowing  with  lamps,  and  streaming  wjth  fire,  now 
moved  majestically  by  us,  and  seemed  a  floating 
and  illuminated  casde.     Loud  vocii|pations  of  nau- 
tical French,  from  both  boats,  were  soon  lost  in  the 
rapidly  increasing  distance ;  while  the  lovely  belt  in  .      . 
the  heavens,  beginning  to  break,  and  hanging  h]ear^pP 
and  there  in  pale  patches  of  light,  unally  vapisjiied, 
and  resigned  the  skjpto  the  moon  and  the  starsi^^   , 


y 


m 


!! 


tM 


1 


w  % 


.IVo/e. — July  31st,  1820.  The  papers  have  just  informed  us  of 
the  death  of  the  celebrated  Botanist,  Fredkrick  Pursh.  He 
died  at  Montreal  on  the  lltb  inst.  afler  a  lingering  illness. 

When  the  effwtt  and  purposes  of  a  man  who  has,  by  useful  or 
splendid  labours,  attracted  the  attention  of  the  world,  are  cut  off 
by  death,  and  his  mortal  toil  is  over,  the  mind  dwells  with  an  in- 
creased^ interest  on  circumstances,  which  might  not  otherwise 
have  attracted  our  attention.  This  is  my  apology  for  the  follow- 
ing note. 

At  the  town  of  Soiel,  when  we  were  returning  to  Montreal  io 
the  stMiA  boat,  Mf.  Pursh  came  on  boerd,  and  was  with  us  th 
remainder  df4lM  piuHSj^.  His  scientific  labours  are  well  known, 
and  the.  public  baVej^ronounced  their  decided  approbation  of  his 
beautiful  woriE,tii(ei  American  Flora,  fltublished  in  London  in 


\3 


J'-fM" 


'•  .^ 


'SigSJi*^      *t' 


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^ 


t. 


■;* 


324  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  ANA  QUEBEC* 


MONTREAl.. 

St,  Johnsy  Oct  14th,  1819. — On  leaving  the  city, 
this  morning,  we  passed  again  to  Longueil,  but  not 
in  so  frail  a  bark,  as  before.  We  .were  conveyed  in 
a  horse  boat,  worked  by  ten  horses,  and  which, 
when  we  entered,  had  just  discharged  sixteen  carts 
and  calashes,  besides  people  and  cattle,  other  than 

1814.  Mr.  Pursh  expressed  liimself  very  wArmly,  on  the  subject 
oftbe  liberal  aid  which  he  received  in  Europe  from  scientific 
meni  in  the  use  of  their  libraries  and  Iheir  herbariums,  and 
in  the  tender  of  ti|P  private  advice  and  information ;  be  men< 
tionedy  particularly,  his  obligations  to  Sir  Joseph  Barks  and 
Pbksidxmt  Smith.  He  informed  m.,  that  he  contemplated  an* 
other  tour  to  Europe,  for  the  purpose  of  publishing  bis  Flora  of 
'  Ciiiliai  upon  which  he  had  been  already  several  years  occupied, 
and  Mfwcted  to  be  still  occupied  for  several  years  more.  These 
■ittiijiiffelies  led  him  much  amon^  the  tfwage  nations  of  the  north 
WiWti^end  aroipd  the  great  lakes.  He  went  first  among  them  in 
company  with  the  exploring  and  trading  parties  of  the  North 
West  Company,  but  fearing  to  be  involved  in  the  consequences 
of  their  quarrels,  be  abandoned  their  protection,  and  threw  him- 
self) alone  and  unprotectedi  upon  the  generosity  of  the  aborigines. 
He  pursued  his  toilsome  researches,  month  after  month,  travel- 
ling on  foot,  relying  often  on  the  Indians  for  support,  and,  of 
course,  exiieriencing  frequently  the  hunger,  exposure,  and  perils 
of  savage  life.  But  such  was  the  enthtaiatm  of  his  mind,  and  his 
complete  devotion  to  the  ruling  passion,  that  he  thought  little  of 
marching,  day  after  day,  often  with  a  pack  weighing  siity  pounds 
<m  his  shoulders,  through  forests  and  swamps^  and  over  rocks  and 
mountains,  provided  he  could  discover  a  new  plant ;  great  numbers 
of  such  be  assured  me  he  bad  found,  and  that  he  intended  to  pub- 
lish the  drawings  and  descriptions  of  them  in  his  Canadian  Flora. 
From  the  Indians,  he  sfldd,  he  experienced  nothing  but  kindness, 
and  he  often  derived  from  Ihfp  Important  as^ftnce :  he  thought 


TOUB  Bf^TWEEN  HARTFOBD  AND  (QUEBEC.      325 


those  belonging  to  these  vehicles*  We  crossed 
lower  down,  and  in  deeper  water,  than  we  bad  pass- 
ed ia  the  canoe. 

The  view  of  the  town,  when  we  were  receding, 
as  well  as  when  we  were  advancing,  ';vas  very 
fine.  It  stretches  about  two  miles  along  the  St. 
Lawrence,  and  it  scarcely  equals  half  a  mile  in 
breadth.  The  bank  of  the  river  is  considerably  el^ 
evated,  and  the  ground,  although  not  very  uneven, 
rises  gradually  from  the  water,  into  a  moderate 
ridge — then  sinks  into  a  hollow,  and  then  rises  again, 

that  had  they  been  treated  with  uniform  jusliee  and  humanUy  by 
the  whites,  they  would  have  always  returned  tlie  same  treatment. 
He  said  he  much  preferred  their  protection  to  that  of  the  wan- 
dering whites,  who,  unrestrained  by  almost  any  human  $10, 
prowl  through  those  immense  forests  in  quest  of  furs  ^n^'-l^a/t: 
Possibly  (without,  bowev||^  intending  any  thing  disrespeetfml  by 
the  remark,)  some  mutqal  sympathies  might  hav^jbeen  excHielly 
by  the  fact  that  Mr.  Fursh  was  himself  a  Tartar,  mM'n  and  edu- 
cated in  Liberia,  near  ToboUski ;  and,  indeed,  he  possessed  a 
physiognomy  and  manner  different  from  that  of  Europeans,  and 
highly  characteristic  of  his  country. 

His  conversation  was  f>ill  of  fire,  poii^t,  aiid  energy  ;  and,  a1 
though  not  polished,  he  Wta^goodhumoured,  frank,  and  generous. 
He  complained  that  he  could  not  endure  the  habits  of  civilized 
life,  and  that  his  health  began  to  be  impaired  as  soon  as  be  be- 
came quiet,  and  was  comfortably  fed  and  lodged,  fie  said  lie 
must  soon  "  be  off  again"  into  the  wilderness.  His  health  was  then 
declining,  and  unfortunately  it  was  but  too  apparent,  that  some  < 
oi  the  measures  to  which  he  resorted  to  sustain  it,  must  eveutU' 
ally  prostrate  Ms  remaining  vigor. 

jtbto  be  hOfpedr  that  his  unfinished  labours  will  not  be  lost, 
and  that  althoogfa  Incomplete,  they  may  be  published ;  since,  \( 
sufficiently  :BUituredi^tb«y  must  add  to  thi  itock  of  knowledge. 


%. 


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326     TeFH  BETWEEN  HAllTf  OR0  AND  (|UES£C. 

with  more  rapidity,  till  it  finishes,  less  than  a  mile 
and  a  half  fVom  the  town,  in  one  of  the  finest  hills 
that  can  he  imagined.  This  hill  is  called  the  moun- 
tain* of  Montreal,  and  indeed,  from  it  the  town  de- 
riir«s  its  name ;  the  words  originally  signified,  as  is 
«<Md,  the  Royal  Mountain.  This  mountain  rises 
■jffe  hundred  and  fifty  feet  ab6ve  the  level  of  the 
river. 

It  forms  a  steep  and  verdant  barrier,  covered  with 
shrubbery,  and  crowned  with  trees,  and  is  a  most 
beautiful  back  ground  for  the  city. 
i  Its  form,  i^t  appears  from  the  river,  is  nearly 
that  of  a  bow.  We  rode  up,  across  the  southern 
end  of  it,  behind  the  beautiful  seat  of  the  Hon.  Mr. 
McGplivray.  I  afterwards  ascended  it  on  foot,  in 
e0ii)|i9Dy  with  an  English  gentleman,  and  walked 
lIlQiength^  its  ridge.  The  view  is  one  of  the  fin- 
«M  that  cnlbe  seen  in  any  country.  Immediately 
at  our  feet,  the  city  of  Montreal  is  in  full  view,  with 
L«v.  its  dazzling  tin  covered  roofs,  and  spires,  and  its 
crowded  streets ;  the  noble  St.  Lawrence,  stretch- 
ing away  to  the  right  and  left,  k  visible,  probably  for 
fifty  miles,  and,  on  both  sides  of  it,  and  for  a  very 
great  width,  particulary  on  ^e  south,  one  of  the 
most  luxuriant  champaign  countries  in  the  World,  is 
«»spread  before  the  observer.  The  mountains  of 
Belsil,  Chambly,  and  a  few  others,  occur  upon  this 

*  There  are  several  springs  near  the  top  of  this  monnlain,  and 
from  them  the  town  is  supplied  with  water,  by  the  usual  means  of 
subterranean  pipes. 


W-***"' 


w~ 


':6i\'; 


%■ 


TOUR  BETWEBK  HABTFORD  4N1>  ^UCSCC.      327 

va»t  plain,  but,  in  general,  it  is  not  interrupted,  till 
it  reaches  the  territories  of  tlie  United  States,  in 
which  we  discern  the  mountains  of  Vermont  and 
New-York. 

In  our  rear,  we  saw  the  Ottawa  or  Grand  River, 
and  its  branches,  which,  uniting,  and  becoming 
blended  with  the  St.  Lawrence,  divide  the  islandof 
Montreal  from  the  main. 

Nothing  is  wanting,  to  render  the  mountain  of 
Montreal  a  charming  place  for  pedestrian  excur- 
sions, and  for  rural  parties,  but  a  little  effort,  and 
expense  in  cutting  and  clearing  winding  walks,  and 
in  removing  a  few  trers  from  the  principal  points  of 
view,  (as  they  now  form  a  very  great  obstruction  \) 
a  lodge,  or  resting  place,  on  the  mountain,  coptiicP 
ed  so  as  to  be  ornamental,  would  also  be  a  d^^BAJble 
addition.  ^ 

On  the  front  declivity  of  the  mountam^  is  a  beau- 
tiful cylinder  of  lime  stone,  or  grey  marble,  erected 
on  a  pedestal ;  the  entire  height  of  both  appeared 
to  be  about  thirty-five  feet.  It  rises  from  among 
the  trees,  by  which  it  is  surrounded,  and  is  a  monu- 
ment to  the  memory  of  Simon  McTavish,  Esq. 
who  died  about  fourteen  years  since,  and  was,  in 
a  s^nse,  the  founder  of  the  North  Western  Compa- 
ny. Just  belowy  is  a  handsome  mausoleum,  of  tho: 
same  materials,  containing  his  remains;  and,  still 
lower  down  the  mountain,  an  unfinished  edifice  of 
stone,  erected  by  the  same  gentleman,  which,  had 
he  lived  to  ctmiplete  it,  would  have  been  one  of  (he 


;{?& 


!«i 


i 


.■.--•■•m 


■fafe 


326    TOUH^BSTW^N  HARTFOUD  ANB  (^OXBEC. 


■«.• 


finest  in  the  vicinity  of  Montreal.  It  is  now  fast 
becoming  a  ruin,  although  it  is  enclosed  and  roofed  in, 
and  the  windows  are  built  up  with  masonry.  It  would 
hl|p  been  a  superb  house,  if  finished  according  to 
th0^jpriginal  plan.  ^- 


GEOLOGY  AND  MINERALOGY. 


MH 


The  mineralogy  and  geology  of  this  mountain, 
and  of  the  island,  I  could  wish  to  see  thoroughly  in- 
vestigated, as  they  appear  to  be. interesting;  the  few 
facts  which  I  Ufp  it  in  my  power  to  observe,  were 
as  follows :  The  plain  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain, 
particularly  at  the  race  course,  is  compact,  black 
filPiJU^ne,  fetid,  and  containing  organized  remains ; 
ication  is  regular,  and  its  position  fiat ;  it 
t^foi^pi  ^i|^tf  the  most  common  building  stones  in 
Mootreaf.  V'his  rock  seems  to  prevail  half  way  up 
%|fae  mountain,  and  is  followedi  by  what  appeared  to 
^  ine,a  hard,  probably  a  siliceous  slate,  intersected  by 
veins  of  trap.  Higher  up  still,  and  on  the  north-east- 
ern end  particularly,  is  a  rock,  inclined  at  an  angle  of 
45°,  which  seemed  to  be  a  decomposed  lime  stone, 
of  a  lightttgrey  colour,  and  friable  texture,  at  least 
where  it  was  exposed  to  the  weather. 

The  very  summit,  of  the  mountain,  is  a  horn- 
blende rock,  highJIy  crystalline  in  its  structure,  and 
containing  distinct  crystals  of  both  homiiletide  and 
augite.  It  is  a  strikilig  example  of  the  parasytical 
character  of  the  hombtende  and  trap  tocks,  follow- 


$'^^*^C  , 


TOUB  BETWEEN  HARTFOIID  A]U>  ^VSBIC.     329 

■''■';  ■ 

ing  no  regular  order  of  succession,  but  occasionally 
forming  caps  and  ridges,  on  all  sorts  of  rocks  and 
mountains. 

There  is  found  also  on  the  island,  within  a  sbtfK 
distance  of  the  town,  a  lime  stone,  of  a  smoke  grey, 
highly  crystalline  in  its  structure,  nearly,  or  quite  as 
much  so  as  the  decidedly  primitive  marbles  ;  whtn 
broken,  it  presents  numerous  and  brilliant  crystalline 
plates,  and  this  is,  in  fact,  almost  exclusively  its 
structure.    • 

Still,  it  contains  numerous  shells,  and  other  or- 
ganized remains,  of  which  the  ini))ressions  and 
forms  are  very  distinct.  Shells,  and  organized  re- 
mains, in  a  highly  crystallized  lime  stone !  Is  it 
transition  lime  stone,  just  on  the  verge  of  beoopdN^ 
primitive  ?  I  bad  no  time  to  visit  the  place  w|k|piB)B 
it  comes,  but,  in  the  piles  of  stone,  about^o  b^  uilflj^^ 
in  building,  in  the  town,  I  observed  this  CTystallized 
lime  stone  (and  that  in  vast  blocks,  shewing  th 
stratification,  and  evincing  that  it  was  not  accidental) 
actually  united  into  one  piece,  with  the  black  com- 
pact kind,  like  the  hone  slates,  of  different  ci^ours, 
which  are  often  exposed  for  sale. 

In  other  pieces,  I  saw  fragments  of  the  black 
compact  kind,  mixed  with  the  crystallized ;  and 
some  large  blocks  of  the  latter  were  terminated  by 
a  black  uneven  surface,  probably  shewing  the  line 
of  connexion  with  the  black  kind.^ 


i'iii 


m 


m 


*  I  thence  iofer,  that  they  ocentr  tqfgeth'er,  in  immediate  connex- 
ion, and  probablj  tb9l>lack  compact  kind  will  be  found  to  lie  up* 
on  the  other.  ^. 


■# 


'':w^-^' 


A|.  k-r 


^ 


h 


330  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTrORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


f- 


I  have  not  seen  enough  of  the  ricinity  of  Mont- 
real,  to  venture  to  pronounce,  confidently,  concerning 
its  geological  classification  ;  it  would  appear,  how- 
ever, that  it  h  partly  a  transition,  but  principally  n 
seilfondary  region.  I  saw  no  proof  that  any  part  of 
it  |b  primitive,  and  cannot  but  wonder  at  the  opin- 
k^i  entertained,  as  I  am  told,  by  many  persons  in 
Montreal,  that  the  grey  crystallized  lime  stone  is 
granite.    I  saw  no  granite  on  the  island.  . 


f  '^'% 


%. 


m 


#^'" 


.■■•■<■ 


MODi;^  OF  BUILDING  IN  MONTREAL. 

Montreal  has  much  the  appearance  of  an  Euro- 
pean town,  particularly  of  a  continental  one.  1  he 
dtreel^  are  narrow,  except  some  of  the  new  ones ; 
the  pliacipal  ones,  are  those  parallel  to  the  river, 
of  which  %>se  of  St.  Paul,  which  is  a  bustling  street 
of  busiueii,  near  the  river,  and  Notre  Dame  street,' 
on  higher  ground,  and  more  quiet,  more  genteel, 
and  better  built,  are  the  principal ;  the  latter  street 
is  thirty  feet  wide,  and  three  fourths  of  a  mile  long. 
A  few  of  those  which  intersect  the  above  streets  at 
right  angles,  are  also  considerable.  The  town  has 
a  crowded  active  population,  and  many  strangers, 
and  persons  from  the  country,  augment  the  activity 
in  its  streets. 

But  the  circumstance  which  assimilates  it  most  to 
a  continental  Eiiropean  town,  is  its  being  built  of 
stone.  People  from  ^  .{Fnited  States,  are  apt  to 
considef  Montreal  as  gtbdmy,  and,  I  presume  it 


ice  of  an  Euro- 
>ntal  one.  The 
the  new  ones; 
Uel  to  the  river, 
a  bustling  street 
re  Dame  street,' 
:,  more  genteel, 

the  latter  street 
of  a  mile  long. 

above  streets  at 
The  town  has 

many  strangers, 

aent  the  activity 

nilates  itmostto 
;s  being  built  of 
itates,  are  apt  to 
I  presume  it 


TOtJR  BETWEEN  HABTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.     331 

arises  from  the  fact,  of  its  being  built  of  stone,  and 
principally  in  an  antique  fashion.  The  former  is, 
however,  in  realhy,  a  strong  ground  of  preference 
over  our  cities,  built  of  wood  and  brick.  Stone  jk 
the  best  material  of  which  houses  can  be  construct- 
ed; if  properly  built,  they  are  not  damp  in  the 
least ;  they  exclude  both  heat  and  cold,  better  tl^n 
any  other  houses  ;  they  will  not  bum,*  except  in 
part,  and  scarcely  need  repair,  and  they  are  easily 
made  very  handsome.  Indeed,  no  other  material 
possesses  sufficient  dignity  for  expensive  public  ed- 
ifices ;  and  we  were  sorry  to  see  even  a  few  private 
houses,  in  the  suburbs  of  Montreal,  built  of  brick,  in 
the  Anglo-American  style. 

I  was,  I  confess,  much  gratified  at  entering,  for. 
the  first  time,  an  American  city,  built  of  stone.  Vbe 
inhabitants  of  Montreal  possess  a  very  filib  building 
none  in  the  grey  lime  stone  already  mentioned  ;  it 
is  as  handsome,  when  properly  dressed,  as  the  cel- 
ebrated Portland  stone  of  England,  and  it  is  much 
superior  to  it  in  durability.  A  number  of  the  mod- 
ern houses  of  Montreal,  and  of  its  environs,  which 
are  constructed  of  this  stone,  handsomely  hewn,  are 
very  beautiful,  and  would  be  ornaments  to  the  city 
of  London,  or  to  Westminster  itself. 

Many  of  the  houses  are  constructed  of  rough 
stone,  coarsely  pointed^  or  daubed  with  mortar,  and 
have  certainly  an  unsightly  appearance ;    others, 

*Anadvaatagei  which  they  obviously  possess  in  common  with 

brick.  . 


m 


m 


m 


3d2    TOUR  I^TWIBN  BAHTrORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


here,  as  well  ai  at  Quebec,  and  elsewhere  in  Cana- 
da, are  covered  with  a  rough  cement,  and  look  rude? 
]y  }  it  is  perfectly  easy  to  make  both  these  kinds  of 
bouses  handsome,  as  well  as  durable,  as  is  seen  In 
particular  instances  in  Canada. 

Many  of  the  houses,  and  stores,  and  ware-houses, 
in  Montreal,  have  iron  plate  doors,  and  window 
shutters,  fortified  by  iron  frames  ;  this  is  obviously 
a  precaution  against  fire,  as  well  as  robbery,  and  the 
tin  coverings  on  the  roofs  of  the  buildings,  are  in- 
tended as  a  protection  against  the  former. 

The  tin  is  put  on  in  an  oblique  direction  to  the 
cornice  and  ridge ;  the  nails  are  covered  from  view, 
and  from  the  weather,  by  doubling  the  tin  over  the 
heads  of  the  nails,  and  the  different  rows  of  tin 
sheets  are  made  to  lap  in  the  manner  of  shingles. 
It  is  by  ni^nieans  an  easy  thing,  to  put  on  a  tin  roof, 
so  as  to  be  made  handsome  and  durable. 

Montreal  is  certainly  a  fine  town  of  its  kind,  and 
it  were  much  to  be  wished  that  the  people  of  the 
United  States  would  imitate  the  Canadians,  by  con- 
structif^  their  houses,  wherever  practicable,  of 
stone. 


m 


ENYIBONS. 


The  environs  of  Montrii^^re  beautiful,  but,  al- 
though con8iderabl|  MfVited  and  improved,  they 
are  far  from  being  mu|^  to  the  state  of  which 
they  are  capable. 


.-.■»t£fi>^-.. 


as  IS  seen  in 


i'OVR  BETWEEN  HiLBTrOBP  A»t  ^VBBBC.      33^   , 

A  number  of  handsome  villas  now  make  their 
ftpp^nrance  around  the  town,  and  there  are  numer- 
ous leites,  still  unoccupied,  which  will  probably 
be  luereafter  crowned  with  elegant  seats.  Few 
places  in  the  world,  possess  more  capabilities  of 
this  kind  than  Quebec  and  Montreal ;  if  the  latter  is 
less  bold  than  the  former,  in  its  scenery,  it  possess* 
es  much  richness,  and  delicate  beauty,  which  need 
nothing  but  wealth  and  taste  to  display  them  to  advan- 
tage ;  the  former  already  exists  in  Montreal  to  a 
great  extent,  and  there  are  also  very  respectable 
proofs  of  the  existence  and  growth  of  the  latter. 


RACE  COURSE  AND  RACING. 

Near  the  city  of  Montreal,  there  is  a  race  cbuise, 
a  circuit  of  about  two  miles.  It  happened  that  Irib 
were  at  this  place  at  the  tiii^e  of  the  races,  and  in  a 
ride  around  the  environs,  we  came  across  the 
ground,  at  the  time  when  the  horses  were  about 
starting.  The  subject  seemed  to  excite  a  good  deal 
of  interest  in  the  community.  In  the  steam  boat  on 
lake  Champlain,  Canadians,  anticipating  the  sports 
of  the  ensuing  week,  were  much  occupied  in  discus- 
sing the  merits  of  the  different  horses,  and  in  pre- 
dicting the  results. 

The  same  topic  was  the  ruling  one  at  the  pub- 
lic houses,  and,  u^ln  the  .turf,  where  via  found 
botli  the  gentry  and  the  comi^  people  of  Montre*:.* 
al.    The  latter  were  o|  foot,  f  nd  the  former  wer» 

29     ;*    ■" 


m 


#1 


I  \ 


334  tOUK  B£TW£SI},  HARTFORD  AND  aUEBUC.' 


either  on  horseback,  or  with  elegant  equipages,  of 
which  this  city  affords  a  few.  Their  number  ap- 
pears not  to  be  proportioned  to  the  wealth  ef  the 
place,  for  the  obvious  reason,  that  from  the  nature 
of  the  country^bK&ter  conveyance,  is  principally 
used  in  travelling.  Ladies  were  present  in  consid- 
erable numbers,  and  all  were  intent,  while  the  judg- 
es mounted  tlie  stage — the  horses  were  led  forth, 
and  the  riders,  in  leather  breeches,  silk  party  colour- 
ed jackets,  and  jockey  caps,  mounted,  and  darted 
away  at  the  appointed  signal. 

Three  times  they  coursed  around  the  appointed 
circle,  and  twice,  at  least,  must  a  horse  come  out 
ahead  of  his  competitors  before  the  prize  is  won. 

It  was,  in  the  present  instance,  obtained  by  a 
horse,  famous,  it  seems,  on  this  ground,  for  distan- 
cing all  his  compeers.  His  name  is  Democrat,  and 
thus  it  has  grown  into  a  proverb  that  Democtat  beats 
every  thing  in  Canada, 

At  Quebec  there  is  also  a  race  course,  and  races 
were  held  the  day  that  we  arrived.  The  course  is 
on  the  venerable  plains  of  Abraham,  where  we  saw 
the  ground,  exhibiting  marks  of  having  been  re- 
cently trod.  How  different  a  strife  from  that  be- 
tween contending  armies !  Who  would  not  wish 
to  preserve  these  classical  plains  from  such  a  de- 
gradation! 


eJ, 


f^'- 


TOUR  BET\V££N  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  334^ 

;  IMPORTANCE  OF  MONTREAL. 

The  point  which  connects  the  oeean,  and  of 
course  Europe,  and  the  rest  ot  the  world,  with  the 
countries  bordering  on  the  vast  lakes  of  this  conti- 
neftt,  and  upon  the  various  rivers  which  empty  into 
thelD,  cannot  be  otherwise  than  important.     This 
is  precisely  the  situation  of  Montreal  and   its  loca- 
tion certainly  evinces  great  good  judgment  on  the 
part  of  Jaques  Cartier,  who  in  1635  or  36,  first 
sailed  thus  far  upon  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  fixed 
upon  this  place  as  the  scite  for  a  town.    It  was  then 
occupied  by  an  Indian  village.     The  city  was  be- 
gun in  1640,  by  a  few  houses,  compactly  built,  and 
was  originally  called  Ville  Marie.     There  seems, 
however,  to  have  been  one  error  in  locating  theJfu-^ 
tare  city.     It  was  meant  to  be  at  the  head  of  navi-i^ 
gation;  it  is  literally  so;  and  shipp>*  can  go  up  to 
the  very  city,  although  it  is  not  usual  to  do  it  with 
vessels  of  more  than  an  hundred  and  fifty  tons. 
Vessels  drawing  fifteen  feet  of  water,  can  lie  at 
Marked  gate,  high  up  in  the  city;  the  gener^ depth 
of  water  in  the  harbour  is  from  three  to  four  and  n 
half  fathoms.     Unfortunately,  however,  the   rapid 
of  St.  Mary,  at  the  extreme  end  of  the  town,  or 
rather,  near  one  of  its  suburbs,  is  so  powerful  an  ob- 
stacle, that  nothing  but  a  very  strong  wind  will  forpe 
a  vessel  through,  whtn  not  impelled  by  ai^y  other 
power.  f, 

*  It  is  sRui  <?V€ni  of  six  handred  Ions. 


't'l-' 


a-', 


-v^? 


336  TQMm  i«f wtiir  hartford  anb  (^ubbec. 


Ships  are  sometimes  detained  here  for  weeks, 
only  two  noiles  below  where  they  are  to  deliver 
their  freight ;  a  canal  is  contemplated,  to  efpable 
river  craft  to  convey  freight  around  the  rapid. 

This  is  the  rapid  where  the  steam  boats  are 
obliged  to  anchor  and  procure  the  aid  of  oxen.  It 
would  appear  that  the  town  should  have  been  built 
at  this  place,  or  a  little  below,  and  then  the  incon- 
venience would  have  been  avoided.  But  as  the 
buildings  do  now,  in  /act,  extend  to  this  place,  it 
would  be  easy  to  establish  a  port  here,  and  it  will 
doubtless  be  done  in  time  ;  it  would,  however,  great- 
ly forward  the  object,  if  a  few  spirited  individuals 
would  begin,  by  erecting  stores  and  wharves,  and  it 
would  be  easy  to  have  the  steam  boats  stop  there; 
easy  I  mean,  as  to  every  thing  but  the  rival  local 
interests  which  are  usually  in  such  cases  arrayed 
against  projected  improvements.  There  are  few 
cities  in  the  world,  especially  of  the  nfagnitude  and 
importance  of  Montreal,  which^  situated  more  than 
five  hundred  and  eighty  miles  from  the  ocean,  can 
9till  eiyoy  the  'benefit  of  a  direct  ship  communica- 
ttoA' with  It.  ' 

Montreal  is  evidently  one  of  the  three  great 
channels  by  which  the  trade  of  North  America  will 
be  principally  carried  on.  It  is  obvious  that 
New- York  and  New-Orleansf  are  the  other  two 
placeSj^  and  it  is  of  little  consequence  that  other 
cities  niay  engross  a  consideif  ble  share  of  trade,  or 


# 


TOUR  BETW££N  HARTFORD  ilNJ>  <IUEBSC.      337 

that  by  canals  and  other  interti&l  improyementi^, 
smaller  rills  of  commerce  may  be  made  to  How  to- 
wards one  city  or  another.  The  great  natural  ba« 
sins^and  water  courses  and  mountain  ranges  of  this 
continent,  will  still  control  the  course  of  trade,  and 
direct  its  most  gigantic  currents,  towards  these  three 
towns,  one  of  which  is  already  a  great  and  noble 
city,  and  the  two  others  are  advancing  with  great 
rapidity.  The  sickly  climate  of  New-Orleans,  will 
somewhat  retard  its  growth,  but  will  not  prevent  it ; 
^Montreal  enjoys  a  climate  extremely  favourable  to 
hiealth,  but  it  is  locked  up  by  ice  four  or  five 
months  in  the  year.  The  carriole  however  tri- 
umphs over  the  ice,  and  the  Canadian,  when  he 
can  no  longer  push  or  paddle  his  canoe,  on  the  wa- 
ters of  the  St.  Lawrence,  gaily  careers  over  its  frost- 
bound  surface,  and  well  wrapped  in  woollen  and  in 
furs,  defies  the  severity  of  winter.         ' 

In  1815,  Colonel  Bouchette  strted  the  popula- 
tion of  MontreJil  at  fifteen  thousand  ;  no  one  now 
rates  it,  including  the  suburbs,  at  less  than  twenty 
thousand,  and  one  intelligent  inhabitant  gave  it  as 
his  opinion,  that  the  population  must,  at  present, 
equal  twenty  f\ve  thousand  ;  perhaps  the  middle 
.number  Is  nearest  to  the  truth. 

Montreal  has  many  good,  iespcctable  institutions, 
most  of  which  are,  however,  French  establish- 
ments, dating  their  origin  under  the  French  domiu- 
lion,  now  sixty  years  extinct  in  this  country.  I  must 
I  refer  for  an  account  of  them  as  well  as  of  those  dt 

39* 


''  ''  m 


>!i;i'i  i- 


iii 


.,  (*. . 


^ 


^. 


4 


♦  i. 


338 '  touB  Bi« 


BARl^rOllD  AND  (IVCBEO. 


Quebee  to  Col^ei  Bouchette's  work  which  ought 
to'b^periised  by  every  person  who  would  obtain  a 
ddmpetent  kilowledge  of  the  Canadas.  I  shall 
presently  quote  from  him  the  dimensions  and  ex- 
tent of  some  of  the  most  important  public  institu- 
tions of  Montreal. 

The  colleges  or  seminaries  of  Quebec  and  of 
Montreal,  are  considered  as  very  useful  institutions, 
and  the  French  is  the  colloquial  tongue  in  both. 
A  gentleman  of  New-x  ork,  who  came  on  with  us 
in  the  steam  bo!iit  down  Lake  Champlain,  brought 
three  boys  with  him — two  of  them  his  own  chil- 
dren, and  placed  them  at  the  seminary  in  Montreal. 
This  institution  is  said  to  contain  two  or  three  hun 
dred  members  ;  both  here  and  at  Quebec,  they  are 
distinguished  by  a  peculiar  costume — a  blue  sur- 
tout,  the  seams  of  which  are  all  ornamented  with  a 
white  cord,  and  they  are  confined  around  the  body, 
both  summer  and  winter,  by  a  large  sash  or  belt, 
doubled  around  the  bowels,  and  tied  in  a  knot,  it  is 
of  woollen  and  of  many  colours,  and  gives  them 
something  of  a  military  air.  In  winter,  this  appen- 
dage must  be  useful,  but  in  summer,  (and  the  Ca- 
nadian heat  is  very  intense)  it  must  be  oppressive 
if  not  injurious.  Among  the  youths  whom  we  saw| 
in  the  streets,  in  the  academic  uniform,  were  some 
who  were  almost  men,  and  others  who  appeared  to  | 
have  hardly  escaped  from  the  nursery.  The  mor- 
als of  the  boys  are  said  to  be  very  carefully  watch- 
ed, and  the  expences  to  be  very  mod^nte— two! 


m 


.tJk'-,-^ . 


pOQ^  in  wlMch  tbey  are  cerain)^  Tory  woU^  of 
imitation.  >i     .    "-^  ... 

I  did  not  go  into  the  college  biiial£ogs,  but  their 
exterior,  which  I  saw,  is  rude,  and  *fte  building  is 
ancient.  They  have  a  fine  garden  and  buildings 
without  the  city,  besides  those  that  are  within. 

The  nunneries  both  here  and  at  Quebec,  are 
maintained  in  all  theit  pristine  dignity.  We  were 
too  much  occupied  at  Quebec,  to  see  the  nunneries 
even  in  the  limited  manner  in  which  they  are  shewn, 
and  at  Montreal  they  are  open,  in  a  restricted  sense, 
on  Thursday  only ;  this  happened,  unfortunately, 
to  be  the  only  day  in  the  week  which  we  did  not 
spend  there.  I  went,  however,  into  the  Court  yard 
of  one  of  the  principal  nunneries,  and  saw  one  of 
the  aged  sisters  with  her  veil  lifted  up ;  she  was 
busily  occupied  in  feeding  chickens. 

In  the  institutions  called  Hotel  Dieu,  both  at 
Quebec  and  at  Montreal,  and  in  other  hospitals,  the 
nuns  attend  on  sick  and  uistressed  persons,  without 
regard  to  any  distinctions,  whether  of  religion  or  oth- 
erwise ;  and  their  humanity,  disinterestedn&si;,  and 
skilful  kindness  are  spoken  of  in  the  highest  terms  of 
approbation.  An  opulent  and  highly  respectable  citi> 
zen,  of  Montreal,  formerly  from  Massachusetts,  said 
to  us,  ^'  I  shall  always  think  highly  of  die  nuns,  and 
feel  very  grateful  to  them  ,;  for  when  I  first  came  to 
Montreal,  poor  and  friendless,  and  became  ^ick,  I 
committed  myself  to  the  care  of  the  nuns  in  one  of 
the  hoijpitals,  and  there  I  received,  for  months, 


>; 


f 


\'\^ 


■*■•'/ 


340  TOUR  BETWimr  HARTFORD  AND  (QUEBEC. 


n 

mm 

I 

■MM 

yill 

f- 

hIiI 

1 

^"i&^p 

'W 

II 

m^v^- 


all  thOv^luDdnes^  ipif  mothers  and  of  sisters,  till  I  was 
restored  to  heailh/'  ^.,.  ,       < 

Perhaps  tve  ought  not  to  censure  with  too  much 
severity,  the  Establishment  of,  here  and  there,  an 
institution,  where  the  unhappy,  the  bereaved  and 
e  'en  the  deserted,  and  betrayed,  especially  when 
ih;  V  arc  persons  distinguished  by  meritorious  pe- 
cnliarities  of  character  or  situation,  may  find  Pi  least 
a  Wrnporary  shelter  from  the  gaze  of  an  unfeeling 
w :?'ld  ;  but  it  certainly  is  wrong,  to  make  the  de- 
^c:  lion  of  the  most  interesting  and  imporlant  social 
A-*  itions  a  religious  duty.  It  is  Iiowever,  a  pleasing 
alleviation  to  find  that  any  such  persons  make  some 
amends  to  society  for  their  dereliction  of  its  common 
duties  and  interests,  by  the  gratuitous  performance 
of  difficult  and  painful  offices  of  humanity. 

Montreal  has  a  number  of  good  public  buildings. 
Besides  the  large  Catholic  and  English  Cathedrals, 
and  other  churches,  there  are,  the  Court  House, 
which  is  one  hundred  and  forty  four  feet  long,  the 
Jail  and  be  Banks,  and  various  other  public  build- 
ings which  do  honour  to  the  town.  The  Court 
House,  Jail  and  Englisi^  Caidicdral  particularly  are 
modern,  and  very  l&ge  and  hanu  ume  buildings, 
constructed  of  the  grey  limestone,  hewn  nnd  laid  up 
with  neatness  and,  skill. 

The  monument  to  Lord  Nelson,  in  the  principal 
market  place\  would  grace  any  of  the  squares  of 
London.     A  figure  of  his  lordship,  crowns  a  high 


vmi^^. 


'^:<-. 


Toim  BETWEEN  vikvrroBOj0m^jjmBWic,    341 

column^  of  the  grey  limestone,  which  is  sustamed 
by  ^  large  pedestal  on  the  sides  of  which  ar^  ex- 
hibited in  alto  relievo,  the  principal  a^jjevements  of 
his' lordship's  life  and  an  appropriate  inscription, 
containing  his  last  and  ver^'  memocable  public  or- 
ders to  the  squadron  before  the  battle  of  Trafalgar, 
"England  expects  that  every  man  will  do  his 
duty."  ;, 

MISCELLANEOUS  REMAKKS  ON  MONTItEAL. 

This  city  is  in  latitude  45°  31'  north,  and  in  lon- 
aitude  73°  35'  west  from  Greenwich. .  It  covers  one 
thousand  and  twenty  acres — what  was  within  the  old 
fortifications  was  only  one  hundred  acres.  Its  climate 
is  very  considerably  milder  than  that  of  Quebec,  and 
most  persons  would  probably  consider  it  as  a  more 
desirable  residence.  In  regard  to  accommodations,  it 
is  so  to  a  strfinger,  who  will  look  in  vain,  in  Quebec, 
for  an  establishment  equal  to  the  Mansion  House. 
He  will  find  indeed  in  Quebec  a  good  table,  but 
there  are  deficiencies  on  other  topics,  to  which  an 
American,  from  the  United  States,  and  still  more 
perhaps  an  Englishman  will  not  easily  be  recon- 
ciied. 

The  following  factsf  as  to  the  extent  of  some  of 
the  public  establishments  of  Montreal,  may  be  of 

*!  have  not  heard  its  height  mentioned,  but  should  imagine  it 
nnyb*  forty  feet. 

t  Bouchette. 


;;'  !(.'  !i 


'  I  ■ 

'"   ■     .     "i  ■  ■ 


342    TOUJR  BETWBSM   BABtifblU)  AND  ^UEBKC. 


11 

i 

Mm 

i 

M 

1 

m 

ii 

m 

u 

some  use,  towards  a  correct  estimation  of  the  pub- 
lie  spirit  Qf  the  cotflitry,  especiiiny  of  that  which 
prevailed  vt^i^ff  the  French  dominion. 

The  Hbt^  Dieu,  founded  in  1644,  is  ^hree  hun- 
dred and  tweuty-four  f^el  in  front,  by  four  hundred 
and  sixty-^ght  deep  j  It  is  attended  by  thirty-six 
nuns,  who  administer  to  the  sick  and  diseased  of 
both  sexes.  ,^  .     '^ 

The  Convent  of  La  Congregatidii  de  Notre  Dame, 
forms  a  range  of  buildings,  two  hundred  and  thirty- 
four  feet  in  front,' by  four  hundred  and  thirty-three; 
the  object  of  this  institution  is  female  instruction. 

The  general  hospital  or  convent  of  the  grey  sis- 
ters, was  founded  in  1750 :  it  occupies  a  space 
along  the  little  river,  St.  Pierre,  of  six  hundred  and 
seventy-eight  feet,  and  is  a  refuge  for  the'  infirm 
poor  and  invalids. 

The  Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame,  is  one  hundred 
and  forty-four  feet  by  ninety-four  ;  this  church  we 
thoi^ht,  in  some  respects,  more  splendid  in  the  in- 
terior, but  less  grand,  than  that  at  Quebec.  It  con- 
tains, among  other  things,  a  gigantic  wooden  image 
of  the  Savioui  on  the  cross.  The  Cathedral  stands 
completely  in  tjie  street  of  Notre  Dame,  across  the 
place  d'armes,  and  entirely  obstructs  the  view  uj) 
and  down  the  street.  This  church  is  on  the  out- 
side rude  and  unsightly. 

The  English  Cathedral  is  the  finest  building  in 
Montreal — its  tower,  which  is  unfinished,  J^  still  in 
progress;    this  church  is  very  Wge,  but!  414  not 


■«!4^.. 


QUEBEC. 

B  of  the  pub- 
jf  that  which 

• 

,  is  \hree  hun- 
'  four  hundred 
1  by  thirty-six 
id  diseased  of 

e  Notre  Dame, 
Ired  and  thirty- 
id  thirty-three ; 
}  instruction. 
>f  the  grey  sis- 
cupies  a  space 
jix  hundred  and 
for  the^  infirm 

is  one  hundred 
this  church  we 
lendid  in  the  in- 
luebec.     It  con- 
wooden  image 
athedral  stands 
lame,  across  the 
lets  the  vi6w  u]p 
is  on  the  out- 

inest  building  in 

lished,  >  still  in 

;,  bul  I  iid  ^^' 


TOCm  BITWfiEN  1liRTf^R]>  ANb  QUEBEC.     343 

learn  its  dimension^.  Thosejdiom  we  saw  attend- 
ing W0rsl]|ip  in  it,  wei'e  persoiii  of  very,  genteel  i^p- 
pearance,  including  many  military  ,i|i"fn)  but  the 
church  wotild  have  held  ten  time»  as  niany  as  wcire 
present. 

The  seminary  of  St.  Sulpice,  ocdtj^i^es  three 
<iides  of  a  square  and  is  one  hundred  and  thirty-two 
feet  by^inet^,  with  spacjipus  gardens.  It  ^as  foun- 
ded about  l^Bi,.-:,/' 

The>  new  College  or  Petit  Seminaire,  is  in  the 
Recollet  suburbs ;  it  is  two  hundred  ind  ten  feet  by 
forty-five,  with  a  wing  at  each  end  of  one  hulidlrt^d 
and  eighty-six  feet  by  forty-five;  it  is^ appendage 
of  the  other  seminary,  and  designed  to  extend  its 
usefulness,  by  enlarging  its  accommodations. 

There  is  near  the  mountain  of  Montreal,  another 
appendage  of  the  seminary.  It  appears  to  be  uoout 
a  mile  from  the  town — it  is  a  considerable  stone 
building  surrounded  by  a  massy  wall,  which  enclo- 
'  ses  extensive  gardens,  Sec.  This  place  was  former- 
II7  called  Clateau  des  Seigneurs  de  Montreal,  but 
now  it  has  the  appellation  of  La  Maisun  des  Pretres. 
litis  a  place  of  recreation,  resorted'to'^  once  a  week, 
[by  both  the  superiors  and  pupils  of  the  Seminary. 

There  is  no  English  College  in  Canada,  but  a 

[foundation  for  one  has  been  laid  by  a  gentleman,* 

Iwho  died  in   1814,  &nd  bequeathed  ten   thousand 

[pounds,   besides   a   handsome   real  estate   at  the 

mount^iJI  Rear  Montreal,  "  for  the  purpose  of  en- 

*llon.  .Ittmes  M'Gill. 


.#. 


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344    TOVR  BKTWKSN   U^kM^HifiM^  MIP  •  %UBBBof 

doii^nrg  air  fiDglislUCollege ;  Jui  iq^  conditiovi 
ihclfsuch  tt|  institomn'sh^tekl^  j^^^ected  within 
teo  yearly  ^erwisd  the  property  was  to  revert 
to^is  heirs.*' «  I  haver  ftot  heard  that  the  plan  has 
eV#^ej|Ai^  diifl^d  ihto  ll^cution. 

I  i|A(p!-#bthiii||  1^  excited  my  surprise 

morf  in  I^Oftda,  Ulan*  ^pumber^f  extent  and  vari- 
ety  of  t^  Fr^oil  iiistitiiti^ias,  many  6f  thetii.intrin- 
sicaUy  «^i^  the  highest  importaoee^:  amlall  of  them 
(a!iiicordij%  to  tl|eir  views)  posseHmg  that  character. 
Tftiey  are  thelf&ore  extraordinary  when  we  con- 
side/that  most  of  them  are  more  than  a  century 
old,  and  tblM^t  the  time  of  their  foundation  the 
Colony  was  feeble,  and  almost  constantly  engaged 
in  war.  It  would  seem  from  these  facts,  as  if  the 
French  must  have  contemplated  the  establishment 
of  a  permanent  and  eventually  of  a  great  empire  in 
America,  and  this  is  the  more  probable  as  most  of  | 
these  institutions  were  founded  during  the  ambitious, 
spleadid  atid  enterprising  reign  of  Lotiis  XIV. 


■4 


^ORTH  WtSa^  COMPANT. 

We  have  bearding  United  ^utes,  n|^0h  of  thai 
contests  of  j^ni  Selkirk,*  with'  the  North  West] 
Company.  '^Ifilrtunately    the    Americfiia  of  tbei 
States  are  Ha^  involved  in  the  quair^lbut  it  is 
solely  an  aifair  of  Briton  with  Bc^on* 

*  This  noblem«o  it  seens,  liu  now  terinl§»U»i^^cotite9ts  sad 
fei0  mort«I  Mipeer'  '       ,y"  ^^^■"  .:■-"-' '^ 


'•#»Vi 


1^'- 


/% 


TOUfl  BStWEEN  HJlBTFORD  AMD  QUEBEC.      346 


I 


A 


We  were  honoured  with  ia  introduction  to,  Mr. 
Mc'Gilli vray,  wb0  sini!^  the  death  of  Mr.  Mc'Tavish, 
is  the  principal  member  of  the  North  W*>8t  Compa- 
ny. This  gentleman,  wil^  plain  ufiissuming  but 
courteous  manners,  aad  ^much  good  sense  and 
worth,  is  highly  esteemed  iti  Canada. 

His  villa,  sitdiiy  on  one  of  the  declivities  of  the 
mountain,  a^out  oqe  mile  and  titi  ItalC  fron^the  town 
— ^commantHiig  a  very  rich  and  extensive  pro|pect, 
is  one  of  the  most  desirable  resideqces,  ihn  I  have 
ever  seen,  and  appears  to  possess  thi|  charms  of  a  fine 
English  country  seat,  with  a  splendor  and  exl^ht  of 
prospect,  of  which,  (in  an  equal  deMe,)  England 
can  rarely  boast.  ^ 

Lord  Selkirk,  it  appears,  claims,  under  the  old 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  a  territorial  right  and  ju- 
risdiction, over  from  one  million  to  one  million  five 
hundred  thousand  acres  of  country,  including  the 
most  important  posts  of  the  North  West  Company. 
This  company,  it  seems,  claims  no  territorial 
rights,  except  so  far  as  to  establish  posta  and  depots, 
necessary  to  the  carrying  on  of  the  trade  in  £urs, 
which  are  their  great  object,  and  the^  entirely  deny 
the  right  ^f  Lord  Selkirk,  to  assume,  or  of  the  Hud- 
son's! B&>  Company,  to  grant  a  territorial  jurisdic- 
tion. The  interfering  views  and  arrangements  of 
the  t#^  {Mirties,  it  is  well  known,  have  already  pro- 
duced^ ^several  severe  conflicts,  in  which  a  good 
many  1^1^  havej  been  lost.  Mr.  Mc'Gilliv^ay  in- 
fornted  tiii  thtffi^e  thing,  much  to  his  satisfactioa, 

30 


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\aM;^  Is«t^  got  bel^m  Imrliameili;^  an^  he  hoped 
now  |»  arrahgecl  fl^  1lf^uPj||d  1^. 
wittikferme^''that  the  quantity  of  furs  fur- 
i^/wthe  North  West  Company, 

|D^|t)fP|P«l  ha^^^^  Mc'Giliiyray  thought 

thpf||Ki|i^pr^Bl^^l^^herwise,  because  the  im- 

^i^burfe  oj^aT||^|£i|^plii«ii9fl  that 

eipijio^  it  W|s  fully  suppliec^pMle  only  ef. 
ifgl^  ttiliivii^^BJi^ore  furs  into  theliarket,  would  be 
l^lMitoil^^iir^Rmand,  and  of  course  the  price. 


'* 


ABiRIGINES. 


The  native  nations  of  this  continent,  it  is  true, 
were  ferocious  and  cruel,  and  in  this  character,  I  have 
more  than  once,  in  the  progressbf  these  remarks,  had 
i»ccasidn  to  stigmatize  them.  Yet  it  is  an  interest- 
ing, and  at  the  same  time  a  melanchjo)^  ^cupation, 
to  remember,  that  scarcely  two  ^centuries  have 
elapsed,  si|M|e  this  continent  was  oc0ttpied  by  its  abo- 
riginal inhabitants;  heroic,  lofty,  l^ee  as  the 'winds^ 
and  ignoraot^^ny  foreign  ttniitefd.    O^Oi^  the 


^ord, andthftt still  greaterdestroyj^^, vvhi< 
courage  cannot  resist,  have  almost  ^xtcjfilliiated 
'these  OQce  ptfii^rfiil  tribes.    Their  laBi^||^8  true, 
have  -been  iii  many  instances  sold,  to 
sold!  for' what  consideration !— aoi 
penkn^s— provinces  for  blankei 
.powder,  bail  ahd  rum.    Have 


r  r 


imf 


i.: 


TOVa  BJBI^WEEir^ttl'rQRd  AND  i^Ufi^EC.     d|7 

the  wave  oU^^H^^^n  popiil|tion,  ancl^%  the^  ^ow 
exist  in  reB(iai<^ii|Jd  morer'i^        rjsgions,  i^p« 


trader  never  i^anie*  Qtor  while  iiMin  troj  f  ||o  !  il 
vvho  once  occupied  the  cot^Qj^s  wnii^  tlitM 
now  inhabit^  aret  anaihi|at€ap|  jne  ^i!»)|i|!(>f  ad^t 
withered  their  heroic  th<|i^ijj||d^s ;.   as  QationI 
have  8^nk  0Q|pM^to  t^  gis^^  chjstii 

v^n^Qur  (^3^^^Kiiient9;-.e8|>eGiaUy  in  tU^  Atlwtic 
cities,  they  arSwIw  almost  as/an^se^B^ps  «^iue 
man  in  Tombnctoo,  and  the  fei;^pM^!^|E«mitiQ|  Ace 
miserable,  blighted  remnants  of  their  ancestofi^at- 
alysed  and  consumed  by  strong  drij^,  squalid  in 
poverty  and  filth,  and  sunk^y  oppreision  and  con- 
tempt*   ^ 

Are  there  any  tribes  that  cetain  their  former  ele- 
vatioa  f  A  few  of  them  remain  in  the  forests  of  the 
W^stand  of  the  north,  and  some  of  them  find  Uieir 
way  to.  t|f#7 cities. of  Canada.  In  the  streets  of 
Montreayiite  saw  numbers  of  these  people  who  ha^ 
6om&  down  from  the  north  west,  and  their  appear- 
ance^f^lhougb^ven  they  cannot  re(rai)i^om  inloxi- 
ea^fo)  is  su^  that  one  who  ka<|^ver  seen  any 
^ot^e  ^IHserable  beings  who  staggeir  iJ)out  our  At- 
lanHl'^towQSj  would  hardly  conceive  that  they  b^ 
longld  to  the  same  race.  Most  ollhem,  (females^ 
as  vt0iJllA  mates^)  are  dreitsed  in  blue  cloth  panta- 
looii4:t^ith  a  l^ue  robe  or  blanket,  thrown  gracefiii- 
^7  ^^l^llS0'^^^^^^^>  ^"^  ^belted  with  a  strict  or 
id  girdle,  around  the  waist.  They 
^eil^at^vrith  luce  and  feathers,  and  tiave  a  supe- 


# 


&' 


i'lt' 


.v* 


.    .•Il's^ 


k.^ 


•■*.i.V.'ii..(< 


Tovli  betwkiTn  har 


■*■ 


-"■**?'■■ 


ANS  mVKBUC. 


1  -^ 

riorjport,  #8  if  still  cooacious  of  aoiir^jMevation  of 

ohjiaGten  3ut  tbei^i  ill-fated  ^iii||>Qi  %iU  become 

tioct,  ipp^ithstandin^  the  efforts  of  benevolent 

""  iduals,  i|ipejpiallyj^^^^  by  the  estab- 

ints  fo)||^cl  in,th#8QU|b-western  parts  of  the 

Uni|ld  S^^s,  to  ^JlJII^aiiize  and  civilize  them ; 

anil  a  heavy  reciCiailQg  vests  gptt||^  heads  of  the 
^l^ivilized  comniuiittiels  in  AnMtiu  Isr  their  cruel 

treatment  of  thQ-  Amefsean  A]|^n^||»  and  of  tfi« 

not  kss  iiEnurefii^fricans^ 


¥: 


;.#■" 


PLOUGHING  MATCH. 

Within  a  few  yearsf^  serious  efforts  have  been 
made  in  Canada,  to  encourage  its  agriculture.—- 
Colonel  Ogilvy,  one  of  the  British  Commissioners, 
respecting  the  boundaries,^  was  among  the  first  to 
encourage  agriculture.  The^  late  Governors  Sher- 
brook  and  Richmond,  are  also  mcl^oned  with 
^reat  respect,  as  distinguished  patrc^  W  the  same 
Important  interests. 

A  society  is  now  organised  in  Montreal,  for  the 
same  purpose^yind  at  their  instatiDe,  a  ploughing 
match  was  set  on  foot;  it  occurred  tbe^y  After 
our  return  from  Quebec,  and  I  rode  out  to  seitit, 
V'  Twelve  pflMx)f  horses,  geared  after  the  English 
manner,  dn^ged  as  manj^  ploughs,  each  mii^g  in 
its  appointed  portion  of  a  large  smooth . meadow. 

*  The  news  of  whose  unfortanate  death,  vir 
discbargi  of  the  duties  of  (hat  trust,  reached ,  Mj 
were  there,  and  created  a  strong  sensation  of  ntifj 


m- 


-m 


A-- 


T0I7&  Bi;<t1irKE#kARtF0RD.  AND  ^P«i^.     B49 

Some  of  |||it?i>loa|hs  were  made  efftur«ly  oyron, 
and  hftd  A  ver j^^ght  and  nc^at  appeilntfice,    ^jTlie 
ploughing  was  veiy  well  performed-f-t^  fufW>s|p 
were  almost  mathematically'  strait,  atti(;tb^  tut^  ^ 
handsomely  laid  over.^  I  was' irifdFnqpwl'  that': 
were  three  premiums,  the  t^^est  -  forty  doUa 
that  they  we^^^^d  both  t(i)W|eUente  and  s 
combined.  W''" 

AQRICULTUR4I'  UIN5JCI 

A  great  dinner  was  provided  at  the  Mftnsioii 
House  where  we  lodged,  aiid  the  friends  of  agric 
ture  assembled,  to  partake  of  its  fruitd.  <  Dining  in 
support  of  ones  country,  a^d  of  its  important  inter- 
ests, is  a  method  of  evincing^  patriotism,  so  general- 
ly approved,  that  it  rarely  wants  adherents.  Nearly 
forty  gentlemen  were  assembled  on  the  present  oc 
casion,  iu|^mong  them  were  some  of  the  princi- 
pal peopnNffi||wealth  and  influence. 

The  dinner  hour  in  Quebec  and  Montreal  is  five  "^ 
o'clock,  but  as  it  is  always  five  till  it  is  six,  the  time  of 
sitting  down  is  ciaually  delayed  to  near  the  latter  hour, 
anilfimtier  is  actually  served,  for  the  most  part,  be- 
tW|iBO  six  and  seven  o'clock.  By  invitation,  we  at- 
ten^d,andintfaiB  present  instance,  apt  down  at  seVeai:; 
o'do<sk;.  the  dinner,  ho#ever,  with  aU  |^  appen- 
not  oyer  tUl  the  next  day  ;  vi%  till  be.- 
and  one  o'clock  in  the  mturning.  I 
say,  that  we  did  not  nt  it  out;  we 
30* 


'#' 


.^^ 


'# 


«*-'(?■ 


'-M' 


•,*'»■ 


«i 


•iiuC  :-*' 


m\ 


m^ 


90    TOUA|l»TWBEN  HARTFORD  AND  <iUfiB£ti 

stay^  howerer  long  enough,  to  see  thd  peculiars 
ties  of  t  grftt  dinner,  m  Montreal; 
>.The  tables ;  were  laid. in  a  room  of  fifty  feet  in 
]^|M,  and  !vp;e  marohed  into  it,  to  the  music  of  a 
G|^y erable  ltaict>-^piping  and  drumming,  the  fa> 

A  large  transpai^pc]^,  occup^^tf^^e  space  from 
Jlie  ceiling  of  a,  lofty  tqom,  neajBto  iie  floor,  ex- 
hil^d,  behind  the  ehaif  t>r  the  Fl||^nt,  a  view  of 
Monlieal  and^its  beau|iful  mountain. 


Th|  table  was  spread  and  decorated  in  a  very 
~  handsome  manner,  and  all  the  meats,  poultry,  wild 
fowl,  and  vegi&tables,  which  are  in  season  in  the 
United  States,,  at  this  time,  were  laid  before  us,  in 
the  greatest  perfection,  both  in  the  articles  them^ 
selves  and  in  the  cookery.  The  desert  was  equal- 
ly handsome,  and  of  the  same  kind  as  is  usual  in 
the  United  States.  Who,  however,  that  is  unac- 
quainted with  Canada,  would  expec^l^see  the 
^  l^est  cantelopes,  and  the  most  delicigfi^^pes,  the 
produce  of  the  country,  and  that  in  the  middle  of 
October?  ^he  grapes  are  raised  in -the  open  air, 
but  in  winter  the  vines  are  not  only  covered 
with  straw,  as  with  us,  but  with  clay  more  than  a 
foot  thick,  and,  in  the  summer,  a  great  proportioo 
of  the  leaires,  ^cceftt  near  the  cluster,  is  taken  off, 
and  the  vines  are  jpre vented  from  running,  by  twist- 
ingi^m.  PeacMs  from  the  Genesee  counttnr,  were 
on  the  table,  but  they  were  not  particularlyj 
pies,  bowever,  cantelopes,  and  grapu 


#. 


iflw'- 


TOUR  BKTW££N  HARTFORD  AKD  ^rUillEC.      SSt 

kind,  and  in  the  greatest  profusion,  hsre  been 
constantly  before  us  in  Canadia,  end  havf  formed  a 
part  of  almost  every  desert,  even  in  the  pubUi^ 
houses  and  in  the  steam  boats.  -<^  AH  Ihe  Uftift 
garden  fruits,  a»  gooseberries,  currants,  strawbeilied, 
raspberries,  peaches,  apric^  and  plums,-  are  pio- 
duced  in  plenty^-^nd  it  may  be  asserted  truly  in  as  ^ 
much  perfectli|Qg^  in  many  southern  climates,  oi^ 
even  in  greateii^|^  ils  said  that  the  orchards  pro- 
duce apples  not  surpassed  in  any  country. 

The  agricultural  productions  of  th(icotmtr^  are 
very  fine';  in  no  respect  inferior  to  those  of  the 
United  States,  and  they  are  evidently  raised,  iii 
liower  Canada,  in  greater  profusion,  and  with  great- 
er ease,  than  with  us.  The  market  in  Montreal,  is 
excellent-^it  contains,  according  to  the  season,  all 
tinds  of  meats,  with  abundance  of  fowl,  game^  fish, 
and  vegetables)  it)  fine  order. 

The  fiiui'JSampaign  country,  which  occupies  so 
large  a  pan^'c^^Lower  Canada^  is  exceedingly  hi* 
tile,  and,  although  we  are  accustomed  to  considet  < 
the  climate  as  very  severe,  it  is  evidently  very 
healthy;  with  the  contrivances  which  exist  here, 
for  producing  and  preserving  heat^  and  for  excluding 
cold,  the  climate  is,  by  all  accounts,  very  comforta- 
ble ;  iihd  it  does  not  appear,  that  it  preventf  the  in- 
habitants from  enjaying  nearly  every  prodliistion  '<if 
the  e4rth|^whicii  is  known  in  the  States  bordering 
on  .^Hlh«  Their  potatoes  and  cat^iflewers,  are 
paitl^plp^good)  and  are  raised  with  great  ease^ 


^A 


t:^fe. 


■If 


Wi 


m 


>  r 

I 


^m^. 


^mm 


c» 


# 


•# 


^; 


352    TOYTMITWIBN  HARTFaRO  AVB  ^UBBEC. 


The  only  article  which  w^  bav(9  found  generally 
bad,  ki  thip  country,  has  been  bread;     The  best 

lich  we  have  seen,  has  been  only  tolerable,  and 

It  of  if  has  boen  so  sour,  dark  coloured,  and  bit- 
teif  jthat  it  took  aome  time  to  reconcile  us  to  it  in  any 
degree.  We  were,  beyond  measure,  astonished 
at  the  badness  of  ibis  article,  e«|Mjilly  as  it  is  so 
%ood  in  England,  and  in  the  ^j^jpf  the  United 
States,  and  as  so  many  of  the  Cvtii^Dia  are  perfect- 
ly acquaihtedirith  both  countries. 

Tjiis  public  dinner  was  conducted  with  great  de- 
corum and  civility. 

'  After  dinner,  toasts  were  drunk,  with  miisic ;  the 
great  personages  of  the  empire,  and  of  the  North- 
American  colonies,  were,  of  course,  toasted,  and  va- 
rious sentiments  were  given  in  honour  of  agriculture. 
Most  of  them  were  drunk*  standing,  and  wit 
cheers,  three,  six  or  nine,  according  to  the  intensity 
offering,  or  the  dignity  of  the  peraoi^|tt|p,  or  pop- 
ujiarity^^of  the  sehtiineiit  ^?;  '^ 

*  There  was  one  eiroumstance  ia  this  dinner,  which  I  have  not 
elsewhere  noticed.  When  the  toasts  were,  to  be  cheered,  the 
Vice-President,  after  rising,  (and  tlie  company  with'biiDi)  cried 
oat,  vei^  loud,  and  with  very  distinct  artieulatioii,  and  strong  em* 
phas^,  Jand a  pause  between  the  words— hip !  hip!  hipt— — 4u^ 

raj  hurra !— — now4  now  I  now  !^ hurra  !-^— ^-agaib  !  agsial 

agaiiyi  i>V.llBrraV  ■'iS??  ti|r!^«*-i"'hurra !  hurra !  hurra!  Iw.—Hlie 
sN|ppai|!  repeating  only  the^  hurra,  to  which  the  other  words  ap* 
pmed  to  be  only  a  watch  wttrd,  that  all  might  join  {9  the  hum 
•ronce.  8|iiii||tbis  dinner,  I  am  told  by  an  £itglisb|||||te^faat  this 
ceremonial  wtw^teeommon  at  set  formal  partle*  jinHNy'*  ^ 
I  neveippiMi  «IJ|«!hUe  ttamt 


^P 


% 


4iBd  generally 
i.     The  best 
tolerable,  and 
oured)  and  bit- 
3  us  to  it  in  any 
jre,  astonished 
illy  as  it  is  so 
the  United 
IS  are  perfect- 

l  with  great  de- 

with  music ;  the 
a  of  the  North- 
toasted,  and  va- 
lur  of  agriculture. 

iding,  «»d  wit 
g  to  the  intensity 
or  pop- 


^r,wl^ich  Ihave  not 
i,  to  be  cheered,  the 
jnywith'Wm*)  cried 
itioii,  »o<a  itrong  em- 

!  hip  I  hipl- — b«^ 
j!^-i-«g«lii!  agaSii' 
iirf«!horrelltc.--the 

the  other  words  ap- 

it  join  li»  the  hurra 
|£iigliih||||^>tthi8 


TOUH  ItlSTWBfiN  HABTVORD  AND  ^U«|LEG.     363 


■'te 


•       '^*      *         _«         * 


The  Canadians  appear  very  loyal,  and  we  canoi^ 
be  a  day  in  their  country,  without  perceiving  in  tBe 
language  and  manners  of  the  people,  that  we  aire 
under  a  royal  government.  #^ 

The  mansU^Bousd,  (originally  built  by  ^Sir  John  ^ 
Johnson,*  son '6fpir  Williain  Johnson,  whose  name 
was  so  famous  ia%ie  colonies,  during  the  Freii^h 
wars,)  is  the  finest  establishment  of  the  kind  in  Can- 
ada, and  would  be  considered  as  a  fine'one  in  Eng- 
land. The  house,  (as  I  remarked  when  here  before,) 
is  very  large,  with  two  wings,  lately  added,  almost 
as  extensive  as  the  house  itself,  and  contains  ample 
accommodations  for  ^  public  or  private  parties,  for 

ills  and  asseml)lies,  for  individuals  or  families,  and 
!l  delightfully  situated,  with  its  front  upon  the  im- 
mediate bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  where  thejriver, 
and  every^^inl  upon  it,  and  much  of  the  sumniod- 
ing  country,  i9  la  full  view. 


HISTORY,  iic. 


"fv. 


After  the  (all  of  Quebec,  in  September^  1769, 
Montreal  became  the  rendezvous  of  the  remaining 
forces  of  the  Frencb,  and  tlie  lifiirquis  Vafidreuille 
Governor-General  of  Canada,  during  the  edsu|e|| 
summeftilf  neO*,  made  every  effort  possible,  to  save 

og  ia  MoBtreel, although  ikiw  to  old  mlin. 


«<•    T^     r 


«w   V>- 


A* 


Iff  -^ 


m 


I 


354    TOUE  9KTWEEN  HABTFOBO  AND  HUSBliU, 


'ev 


^ 


i       r 


■fr' 


the  country.  But,  it  was  all  in  vain.  Tiie  force 
which  General  Amherst  comralinded,  was  totally 
superior  to  all  that  the  French  General  could  mus- 
ter. It  was  not,  however,  till  September,  that  the 
conquest  of  C^nadfi  was  fully  accomplished.  On 
the  sixth  of  tliat  month.  General  Amherst,  with  an 
army  of  niore  than  ten  thousand  'dien,  landed  at  La 
Chine,  on  the  island  of  Montreal,  hafiog  prosecuted 
his  enterprise,  under  very  great  ^dsbips  and  diffi- 
culties, through'  the  wilderness,  from  Schenectady 
to  Oswego,  and  down  Lake  Ontario^  and  the  rapids 
of  the  St  Lawrence  ;  on  the  same  day.  General 
Murray  arrived  with  his  army,  from  Quebec,  and 
the  day  after.  General  Ha viland,  with  another  ar- 
my from  Lake  Champlain,  appeared  at  Longueil. 
Thus,  by  a  singular  concurrence,'  (devoutly  regard- 
ed at  the  time,  by  the  good  people  of  the  £ngli#| 
colonies,  as  peculiarly  the  result  of  tlie  favouring 
providence  of  God,)  three  powerfuliiMrinies,  amount- 
i|^£  to^ore  than  twenty  thousand^jipien,' arrived,  al- 
most at  the  same  hour,  from  regions' widely  remote, 
and  after  encountering  peculiar,  and  great  difficul- 
ties. 

;^N«^ng  remained  for  the  Marquis  de  Vaudreuilte, 
%c|^«tnded,  as  he  was^  by  an  overwhelming  force, 
hut  to  capitulate^  Aficordingly,  on  the  eighth,  he 
surrendered  hii^  army  prisoners  of  war,  and  witbj 
them,  the  whole  of  Canada  and  its  dependencies. 
The  most  hanourable  terms  were  gi't^Q|H[|  ^^^'i 
in  consequence  of  the  signal  gallantry^  H^^perse* 


¥■ 


i 


"  1^ 


TUUH  BfiTWCEN  HAH'firOKD  AND  <iVB»EC.     355 

verance,  and  patviotiini,v  which  he  had  displayed. 
'<  Thus,  in  little  itiore  than  a  century  and  an  half 
from  its  first  settlement,  in  the  sixth  year  of  the 
war,*after  six*  general  battles,  this  vast  country  was 
completely  conquered  by  the  conjoined  armies  of 
Great 'Britain  and  her  colonies/'f 

Montreal  was  taken  by  General  Montgomery,  on 
the  thirteenth  o(  November,  1775,  but  without  op- 
position, except  that  a  little  before.  Governor  Carle- 
ton  had  been  defeated  at  Longueil,  by  Colonel 
Warner,  an  event,  which  prepared  the  way  for  the 
downfall  of  St.  Johns,  and  of  Monlrealllself. 

This  city  has  been,  more  or  less,  concerned  in  ftll 
the  wars  of  this  country,  since  its  foundation ;  but,  I 
am  not  informed  that  any  very  metnorable  battie  has 
seen  fought  in  its  vicinity.  It  viraS  never  very  strong- 
fortified,  and,  at  present,  there  is  not  even  the  ap- 
pearance of  fortifications ;  the  old  walls  and  forts  hav^ 
iog  been  leveUld|and  even  the  Citadel-Hill,  an  anifi- 
cial  mouitd,  of ^mmanding  elevation,  whi<^,  'with 
vast  labour,  the  French  had  erected  in  the  hiidst  (yf  the 
city,  they  are  now  in  the  act  of  removing,  to  mcdce 
room  for  a  reservoir  of  water.  As  at  Quebec,  I  ob- 
served great  piles  of  heaty  cannon,  but,  pfdlibly 
I  they  have  reference  principally  tQ^^iiaval  prepilrfr- 
tions.  ^  vj? 


*4   ■:.:.':' 


.ill 


mi 


I 

.if 
1 


*  Those  of  IiakeGeoi^,  Tioonderoga,  Niagiira,  M|»iitmo('enoi> 
I  Quebec,  agj4>SUiery. 


fTru 


.^^{i^'' 
<\'*-'\ 


r^: 


■'>yi-- 


:'W 


:ory  of  Connecticot. 


1?^- 


tww 


^J^ 


>' 


J"" 


'856     TOVR  BKTWCKM  QAATVpiU)  AND  ^UlBBC. 

•^lirhere  is  a  imall  body  of  troops  here  at  present, 
md  I  bad  an  opportunity  of  seeing  some  of  them 
parade  in  -tbe  beautiful  groundi  called  the  Champs 
de  Mars.  There  are  extensiipe  stone  barracks  on 
tbe  St.  Lawrence,  at  tbe  lower  end  of  tbe  city  ;  they 
,  are  occupied  by.  the  British  troops,  but,  I  presume, 
were  erected  by  the  Frencl^  as  they  are  in  their 
style  of  architecture. 


^' 


% 


CAUTION  TO  STRANGERS  IN  CANADA. 

'  '•   '    ■ 

Soon  after  arriving  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  almost 
^ery  stranger  finds  his  stomach  and  bowels  derang- 
ed, and  a  diarrhcea,  more  or  J?ss  severe,  succeeds. 
The  fact  is  admitted  on  all  hands ;  and  sometimes 
4he  complaint  becomes  very  serious,  and  is  said,. 
in  a  few  cases,  (very  peculiar  ones,  I  presume)] 
to^ve  become  dangerous,  and  even  fatal.    It  is  { 
iH^Udto  tbe  lime,  supposed  tQA|||dissolved  by 
^  fiNi^wrence,  whose  waters  ■Pgenerally  used 
'fto'  culinary  purposes.    I  have  never  heard  that  any 
cbemical  examination  of  the  waters  has  been  per- 
focnied,  but  it  is  evident  that  it  contains  .'something  | 
tilllgo,  because  it  curdles  soap.  It  iB  said  that  boil- 
ing makes  it  harmless.    The  same  thing  is  asserted  | 
of  the  waters  ca^jptdUuid,  which  produce  similar  ef- 
fects upon  straagert*  V  i  have  experienced  it  both  11 

Polland».«and  in  Ganadai  «nd  Mn  W-^-: was,! 

in  lHolattir  country,  more  severely  al||p|»d  than 


tn 


^  ■»!&:« 


rftVML  ■BTWCEM  BAKTrOlUI  AMD  qDBBKG.     917 

Strangers  from  the  United  States,  coming  ln$m 
should  be  very  cautious  of  their  diet,  especially 'if 
the  hours  are  so  different  from  those  that  prevail  in 
most  of  the  states,  and  as  they  are  even  much  later 
than  those  of  our  cities.  The  late^  dinners,  and  the 
conviviality  of  Canada,  subject  a  stranger,  (especially 
from  the  eastern  Stupes,)  to  be  eating  meats,  and 
drinking  wine,  when  he  usually  drinks  tea,  and  his 
stomach  has  been,  perhaps,  before  enfeebled  by 
fasting,  and  is  then  enfeebled  again  by  repletion. 
The  sour  bread  also  appears  to  have  its  share  in 
producing  a  derangement  of  the  stomachs 


««k 


f, 


m 


m 


PECULIAR  MODE  OF  EXTRACTING  TEETH. 

Severe  suffering  from  my  teeth,  while  in  Moat- 
real,  obliged  me  to  resort  to  the  usual  painful  rem- 
edy. It  was  rendered,  however,  in  the  present  in- 
stance, mufd|||ess  distressing  than  comni^pi^^li^  ji 
mode  of  exiiption,  which  I  have  never  mn  prac- 
tised else  where,     .  ■:^\' 

A  pahr  of  strong  baw1l»-bill  forceps,  beisi 
mouth,  gently  downward,  4iQd  then  inward,  and  t^er- 
miniting  m  delicate  teeth,  is  applied  to  the  tc^  tp, 
be  drawn ;  no  cutting  df  the  gum  is  ji>ractised,  nor' 
any  preparation,  except  siinp^rio  place  a  small 
Apiece  of  wood,  (pine  is  commonly  used,)  betweeli 
the  forceps  and  the  jiaw,  and  close  t^  the  tootjti ; 
this  f^k^,  '^  ^  prop— the  tooth  i#  the  weight 
to WMidi  and  the  hand  applies  the   power  just 

at 


-i* 


0.    '' 


'¥'*: 


,\. 


.   'ini" 


M^ 


* 


r  rw^i, 


,*;:■ 


■■"H^ 


tlH^    TOUH  Jll^f TWEEN  UARTFORD  AND   <117EBCC. 

«t  ^  end,  of  the  lever,  that  is,  at  the  other  end 
lof  the  forceps.  The  pressure  is  applied  downward, 
if  it  be  the  lower  }i^w,  upward,  if  it  be  the  upper 
jaWi  and  the  tooth  (without  any  thing  of  that  horrible 
crash  whiich  attends  the  usual  mode  of  extraction, 
.  without  prying  against  the  jaw,  and  thus  creating 
dangei^  of  breaking  it,  besides  iiroducing  much  pain 
by  the  pressure  op  the  sides  of  the  socket,)  is  lifted 
perpendicularly  from  its  bed ;  there  is  no  other  vio- 
lence, than  to  break  the  periosteum,  and  the  con- 
necting vessels  and  nerves,  and  the  thing  is  effected 
with  comparatively  little  pain.  When  it  i^  desired 
simply  to  cut  a  tooth  off,  in  order  to  plug  it,  it  is  ne- 
cessary only  to  compress  the  instrument,  without 
prying. 

It  may  be  supposed  that  the  pressure  against  the 
jaw,  by. the,  prop,  must  be  painful;  on  the  contrary, 
it  ip  not  felt,  because  the  action,  and  re-action  are 

?  %4MB^^^ual,  between  the  pressure  Oit  the  jaw  and 
t|ie  ii|B|^ce  of  the  tooth.    Dr.  F|y;  from  Ver- 

^  pi^l^^ifte  person  who  operates  in.  this  ingenious 


CATHOLIC  WORSHIP.  ' 

.^is    worship  is  /ully  maintained  in  Canada. 
Hv^li  «iid  that  the  C«^^  of  this  country  even 
lay  chiim'  to  a  ^^ter  ^^{piee  Of  purity  and  strict-'^ 
004B,  than  tboii  of  old  fVance.    In  other  Cath- 
olic  countries,  tJhe^  go  Jrop  the  church  |o  the 

*  I  am  tware,  tbif  Iftiiiilias  be«n  attemptaa  ln^er  modes, 
but  I  btlieve  ia  none  >o  limpla  an^vffectual. 


"m: 


,tf" 


# 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  ^tEBEC. 

theatre)  but  it  was  stated  io  us  in  Montreal,  tbaly^f 
Catbolie  priests  do  not  permit  their  peoplei  to  attrail' 
the  theatres,  and  that  it  is  very  rare  that  a  Catholic 
is  seen  in  them  in  Canada.  ^' : 

'We  visited  numbers  of  their  houses  of  worship, 
and  even  in  their  villages,  these  houses  are  decorated 
with  pictures,  and  c(g|siderably  ornamented  in  their 
finishing.  We  never  entered  one  df  them,  with-* 
out  finding  people  at  their  devotions.  They 
cross  themselves  with  holy  water,  and  then,  with 
much  apparent  seriousness,  repeat  their  prayers 
silently,  moving  their  lips  Only.  As  in  other  Catho- 
lic countries,  the  people  here  are  said  to  be  very  ig- 
norant of  the  scriptures,  but,  of  this  1  can  say  noth- 
ing from  personal  knowledge. 

The  Catholic  cathedrals  at  Montreal  and  ^i^ 
%eOi  are  splendidly  ornamented  with  a  profusion  of 
pictures,  images,  and  gilding,  and  the  dresses  wpm^ 
by  the  fieclesiajtics  and  attendants  in  the 
in  Montreal,  are  very  showy  and  costly,  bi^| 
posed  of  silk,  curiously  embroidered,  and 
with  many  colours,  an^  with  gold.  Tb^e 
worship  at  this  cathedra^  before  the  hour  of  the 
Protestant  service,  and'ii^  wWe  present  a  part  of 
the  time.  The  building  i^  very  flrge,  but  it  %as 
crowded  to  overflowing  j^^fery  all^y  and  nook  Was 
^%lled,  and  the  utmost  atfl||]itioQ  and  seriousness  ap- 
peared in  the  eongregatieii.  The  preacher  pro- 
nounced a  discourse^  in  French,  in  a  very  aniniiated 

*  HJ8  obj[pil%M  to  recommend  the  example  of  Chifi|t|  to  the 
imitAUon  of  his  audience. 


#.: 


7^ 


if 


■'■•V 


m^ 


'•■•'*.■ 


#.7 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

apSQ^libpressive  manner,  and  it  was  considered  as  an 
etol^uent  performance,  and  in  very  good  classical 
French.  His  private  character  also  was  said  to  be 
e:|cellent.  ,     ^ 

Nine  tenths  of  all  the  population  here  are  Catholics, 
and,  in  every  village,- the  cro»«  is  seen  displayed  in 
some  conspicuous  place;  it i| commonly  made  of 
wood,  and  is  iirequently  surmounted  by  a  crown  of 
thorns.  The  Catholic  clergy  of  Canada,  are  highly 
spoken  of  by  the  Protestants,  and,  although  there 
may  be  e:^ceptions,  they  are  ^aid  generally  to  exert 
a  salutaiy  influence  over  the  common  people.  Ar- 
ticles of  property  which  have  been  stolen,  are  fre- 
quently returned,  unsolicited,  to  the  proper  own- 
ers, and  that  through  the  intervention  of  the  priests. 
^^-i  The  Catholic  Church  in  Canada  is.opulent.    Its 

pi^neliml^.  sourv*.e  of  revenue  is  from  the  lodes  et 

*^ )     'WW-  #-  ^  ,      ,  •  .   -      , 

fi^i^*;^  tines  of  alienation,  which  is  a  certain  per 
tagej|n  the  sale  of  real  estate.    It  was  stated  to 


^' 


9  vAhelm  in  Montreal  eight  per  cent,  on  the  sales 

pi0i^tS^  estate  in  the  seigniory ;  that  is,  in  the 

HvHble  nj||id,  which  ,^^4prty  miles  long  by  ten  and^^ 

'  tt^half  wide.     The  C|^||^  Church*  is  the  seignieur 

i  ^  this  seigniory.    "[J^H^W  centage  is  paid,  by  the 

:  purchtier,  and  is  repeatea  every  time  the  estate  is 

sold.    This  enormo^  i^|i^0  is  not,  however,  fully 

enforced  ;.  the  clergy  iar«^|Pad  to  compound  for  five 

*  Bouchttre  states,  that  tbU  fm>p«(i1y  belongs  to  the  Beminary 
of  St.  Sulpice,  but  this  li,  I  tuppow,  only  another  nanie,  for  its  be- 
longing to  the  clergy,  who  are  the  fathers  and  tUnectora  of  the 
instthition.  % 


.% 


-w 


^- 


>  "J 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 


per  cent,  and  it  is  even,  in  some  instances,  ^iflfd 
or  refused  altogether,  and  I  belieye  it  is  rarelj^ii'* 
forced  by  law,  although  it  is  understood  that  th^ 
right  is  complete.  Perhaps  the  clergy  may  feel  i 
delicacy  in  prosecuting  an  unpopular  claim,  undejia 
government,  which,  although  it  protects  them  fully 
in  their  rights,  and  exercises  towards  them  a  perfect 
toleration,  is  of  a  different  religious  order.  It  is  9 
strange  fact,  not  only  that  the  Catholics  of' Britain 
and  |rej^nd,  but  even  other  sectaries  from  the  es- 
tablished church,  do  not  experience,  at  home,  any 
thing  like  the  toleration  which  is  enjoyed  by  the 
Catholics  in  Canada ;  rather,  it  would  almost  seem 
as  if  the  latter  were,  in  Canada,  the  established 
church  still,  and  that  the  Protestant  Episcopal,  and 
other  denominations,  were  the  tolerated  sects.  The 
present  Speaker  of  the  House  of  Commons  in  l00*^ 
jr  Canada,  is  a  Catholic. 

I  have  already  remarked  that  we  atten^d  t|^e^  ""^^ 
ship  in  a  very  large  Episcopal  Church  ^;reNi!e 
erecHted,  and  although  the  building  does  apnoiii^^ 
Montreal,  it  was  by  no  means  so  well  filled  as  w»^ 
Catholic  Cathedral.  t#***         ,  ^ 

Indeed,  it  is  wonderfpl^  tbiu  sixty  years  of  sub- 
jection to  a  foreign  powdl  havo  n^  done,  more  hy 
weaken  the  French  e&iablifhinepts  and  institutions 
in  Canada.  They  not  only  remain  for  the  most 
part,  but  seem,  in  manyl^stances,  to  have  gained 
vigoi?)  and  every  thing  still  ^ears  a  thousand  times 
more  the  appearance  of- a  French  then  of  an  Eng- 


'fir  ■:'* 


m 


->■?&•. 


#»,' 


J-- 


TOVU  BETWEEN  UJtBrTJfWHD  ARU  <IVEBEC;. 

Hs^  oeuntry.     This  is  not  more  apparent  in  any 
thii|^,  than  in  the  general  prevalence  of 


M 


y   ■ 


%: 


4? 


THE  FRENCH  LANGUAGE. 

This  is  altogether  the  prevailing  tongue  of  the 
towns,  and  the  invariable  language  of  the  villages. 
In  the  streets,  both  in  town  and  country;  in  the 
steam  boats  ;  in  the  markets ;  and,  in  short,  every 
where,  you  hardly  ever  hear  any  thing  bu^F^nch. 
All  people  of  business,  of  education,  of  fashion  and 
influence,  speak  both  languages ;  and  we  were  in- 
formed, that  the  proceedings  of  all  courts,  and  all 
pleadings  and  arguments  in  them,  are  earned  on  in 
both.  The  common  people  in  the  towns  generally 
speak  both ;  many  of  those  who  come  to  market 
alsQ;  but  in  the  villages  we.  more  generally  found 
that  tl]^  spoke  French  only. 

it  is 'conceded,  I  believe,  that  the  French  gentry 
in  CaDfla  speak  and  write  the  languagie  with  purity. 
We  heard  an  eminent  French  gentleman,  at  the  ag- 
ricultural dinner,  sing, /God  save  the  King'  in 
^rench;  but  it  is  6|p9  said,  that  the  common 
French  Canadians  sj^aK  only  a  spurious  and  cor- 
Vupted^French^,  having  (^]y  a  remote  resemblance 
to  that  ef  France.  But  there  &eems  reason  to  doubt 
the  cprree^ess  of  this  ^inioni  Mr.  W  ,  who, 
in  youtb,  learned  to  spiftk  the  French  langui^e  tn 
France,  not  on^-  found  no  difficulty  in  conversing] 
with  the  cofl^on  people*-~(and  we  haii  considen- 


■>».■* 


TO^R  lETWEEN  HARTVORD  AND  t(UEBBe.      ^63 

ble  intercourse  with  them) — but  he  gives  it  as  hit 
opinion,  that  the  French  spoken  hy  them'ts,  Wpxty 
thing,  knore  pulb  than  that  us<Bd  by  the  country-  peo- 
ple of  France,  and  that  it  is  as  good  as  the  English 
spoken  by  th^  common  classes  of  society  in  the 
United  States.  In  many' instances,  the  phraseolo- 
gy of  the  country  people  was  considered  as  remark- 
ably apposite,  and  even,  occasionally,  elegaht.  I 
have  already  quoted  the  opinion  of  Charlevoix  an 
this  point ;  and  there  seems  to  have  been,  in  this 
respect,  very  little  change,  since  his  time^ 


mi 


.:^ 


if 


m 


II 


■^: 


FRENCH  POPULATION— THEIR  MANNERS,  COSttJMEi 
VILLAGES,  POLITICAL  SITUATION,  &c. 

Colonel  Bouchette  states  the  population  of  Low- 
er Canada  at  three  hundred  and  thirty-Sve  thou- 
sand ;  and  of  this  number,  two  hundred  and ,  se^- 
enty^five  thousand  are  French.**^  It  is,  therefore, 
still  St  French  country,  and  it:  is  surprising^  |!^iit  "^ 
mdrCr  than  half  a  century  so  little  impres8i<m  bis 
been  made  on  their„  peculiar  characteristics. 

la  the  lower  province,  \yhere  they  are  almost  ex- 
clusiv^y  found,  the  soil  if  generally  luxuriant ;  they 
inhslhit,  for  the  most  part,  the  rich  alluvial  soil  l^, 
which  'the  St.  LftW|*enee,  the  Sorel,  and  other  pirfii^ 
cipal  waters,  are  so  extenstl^ii]^  bordefi»d.  Their 
subsistence  4s  easily  ohtniied^^there  are  scarcely 

'.  "  ■  '     ^,       T  s;  ■■)►•>  'M  _     ■  ■ 

» In  1603,  U  contained  7000  souls ;  in  1714,  20,0Q0;  in  17»0» 
70,000 ;  In  1775, 90,000,  including  Upper  Canada.— £oticA<<<e. 


M 


'1^/, 


m4* 


364  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFOED  AND  QUEBEC 

any  marks  of  extreme  poverty  among  them,  and  a 
meftdicant  we  never  saw  while  in  the  country. — 
They  are,  however,  generally  without  enterprize, 
and  are  satisfied  to  go  on  without  changOj  from  gen- 
eration to  generation.  There  is  much  reason  to  be- 
lieve, that  they  give  a  very  just  exhibition  of  the 
French  people  in  the  provinces  from  which  they 
emigrated,  as  they  were  two  hundred. years  ago.  I 
speak  of  the  common  people.  They  are- more  like 
an  European  peasantry,  than  any  thing  in  this  conu- 
try  ;  I  mean  in  North  America.  They  are  truly  a 
peasantry,  excejpt  that  they  are  vastly  superior  to 
European  peasantry  in  comforts  and  in  privileges. 
"  u«i questionable,  whether  any  conquered  coun- 
try  was  ever  better  treated  by  its  conquerors.  They 
were  left  in  complete  possession  of  their  religion, 
and  of  the  revenues  to  support  it ;  of  their  property, 
laws,  customs,  and  manners;  and  even  the  very 
gOt^rning  and  defending  of  the  country  ^almost 
wiUiojII  enLpense  to  them.  They  aire  said  to  pay 
no  taxes  to  government,  and  none  of  any  descrip- 
tion, except  a  trifling  sum  of  a  few  shillings  a  year 
to  their  seigneurs,  as  an  acknowledgment' for  the 
tenure  of  their  lands,  i^d  a  twenty-sixth  part  of 
their  grain  to  the  clergy,  with  certain  liabilities  to 
contribute  to  the  repair  of  churches,  and  various 
other  public  objects,   r  - 

IVidl  the  affiiirs  of  gpyemment  they"  ^ve  them- 
selves little  cono||h ;  and  it  is  a  curious  fact,  if  cor- 
rectly stated  to  us'  by  various  intelligent  men  in 


■■*i. 


■■H'* 


0 


TOUH  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  965 

Canada,  that  this  country,  so  far  from  being^  a 
source  of  revenue,  is  an  actual  charge  upon  th^ 
treasury  of  the  Empire.  , 

It  would  seem  as  if  the  trouble  and  expense  of 
government  ^ere  taken  off  their  hands,  and  as  if 
they  were  left  to  enjoy  their  own  domestic  com- 
forts, without  a  drawback.  Such  is  certainly  the 
appearance  of  the  population,  and  it  is  doubtful 
whether  even  our  own  favoured  communities  are 
folitieally  more  happy.  It  is  evident  that  the  Ca- 
nadians are  abundantly  more  so,  than  the  mass  of 
the  English  population  at  home.  They  are  not  ex- 
posed, in  a  similar  manner,  to  poverty  and  th^  djUt* 
ger  of  starvation,  which  so  often  invade  the  £tnglish 
manufacturing  districts,  and  which  formidable  evils, 
aided  by  their  demagogues,  goad  them  on  to  every 
thing  but  open  rebellion. . 

Such  is  the  richness  of  the  soil  in  Lower  Ctfj^ 
da,  that  the  farmers  are  said  even  to  be  af^iu^^^ 
raising  too  much  produce,  lest  the  price  shoald  lalK 
They  have  so  little  occasion  to  manure  their 
grounds,  .that  stable  manure,  as  we  were  assured,  is, 
in  the  winter — even  now,  and  it  was  much  more  the 
fact  formerly— -carried  on  to  the  river,  and  left  in 
heaps  on  the  ice,  that  they  may  get  rid  of  it  as  a 
nuisance ;  and,  in  general,  it  cannot  be  given  away 
—people  will  not  remove  it  without  being  ||||^  for 
their  labour.  Such  negligence  i^d  bad  farming 
are  much  to  be  regretted ;  for  even  the  Island  of 
^iontreal,  beautiful  as  it  is,  would  certainly  be  th« 


m 


w  ^^m 


^99 


TOUB  BBTWBEIf  HABTf  OBD'ABD  ^VBBBC. 


#'■ 


m 


'■:'t:   :*' 


"better  for  the  manure  which  its  annually  thrown 
away,  and  I  trust  their  new  agricujuiral  society  will 
soon  teach  the  people  r  a  better  lesson  on  this  sub- 
ject and  prevent  their  wasting  so  rich  a  treasure. 

Ib  the  costume  of  the  French  gentry  in  Canada, 
there  is  nothing  peculiar*  ,-The  peasantry  frequent- 
ly wear  a  blue  or  red  wopUen  cap,  falling  back  in  a 
pendant .  cone,  and  many  of  them  weiar.a  red  or 
parfy-coloured  woollen  sash  around  theif  waists. 
They  are  very  fond  of  tobacco,  and  are  frequently 
observed  smoking  with  a  short  pipe  while  they  are 
walking  or  driving  their  carts.  We  were  sufficient- 
ly ainitised,  at  seeing  a  common  Frenchman  driving 
a  cart  of  dry  straw  in  the  streets  of  Montreal,  while 
he  was  sitting  Immediately  'before  it,  sraoking  his 
pipe  quite  unconcerned,  although  a  stroiig  wind  was 
blowing  the  sparks  directly  towards  the  straw.  A 
dii^  or  two  after  we  met  another,  also  smoking,  and 
mth  the  utmost  tatkg  froid,  sitting  in  the  Midst  of 

his  load  of  straw. 

■*■,■ 

We  visited  a  number  of  villages,  and  went  into 
several, houses  of  the  peasantry,  besides  lookmg  in- 
to many  others  particularly  around  Quebec,  the 
delightful  weather  |»iusing  them  t6  throw  their  win- 
dows wide  open.  Most  of  the  cottages  are  con- 
structed of  logs^  iliedy  squared,  and  laid  op,  the 
ang^^re  framed  or  halved  together,  the  seams  are 
made  tight  by  p]|isterj  good  windows  ami  ctoors  are 
fitted  in,  the  roofs  are  generally  of  shingles,  the 
whole  is  tight  against  the  weather,  and  neatly  white* 


# 


nuaHy  dirown 
ral  society  will 
n  on  this  sub- 
h  a  treasure, 
try  io  C/anada, 
antry  frequent- 
lUing  back  in  a 
wear  a  red  or 
d  their  waists. 
\  are  frequently 

while  they  are 
were  sufficient- 
incfaman  driving 
Montreal,  while 
it,  smoking  his 
strong  wind  was 

the  straw.    A 
BO  smoking,  and 

in  the  midst  of 

and  went  into 
^ides  looking  in- 
^d  Quebec,  the 
irow  their  win- 
ktages  are  con- 
md  laid  op,  the 
it,  tfie  seams  are 
^s  and  doors  are 
)f  shingles,  the 
id  neatly  white- 


TODB  BSTWCElf  HABWOftD  AND  i^£»BC. 

washed,  roof  and  all;  At  bast,  this  is  commonly  the 
fact  on  the  St  L^rence.  I  have  already  mentioned 
that  the  better  sort  of  oottages  are  built  of  atone, 
sometimes  covered  with  cement  and  sometimes  not. 
Inside,  the  houses  appear  very  comfortable  ;  they 
are  plaistered  or  wainscoated,  and  each  mansion  is 
furnished  with  an  ample  stove,  usually  standing  in 
the  middle  of  a  large  room,  or  in  the  partition  of 
two,  or  in  the  common  angle  of  several.  There 
I  are  large  out  houses,  barnsi  &c.  buik  in  much  the 
I  same  manner  as  the  houses. 

We  had  occasion  several  times  to  call  at  the 
I  houses  of  the  peasantry  for  milk,  or  somethinf  else 
that  we  wanted.    The  milk  was  very  rich,  and  for 
a  trifle,  was  bountifully  furnished.    The  manners  of 
the  French  in  Canada,  are  extremely  courteous  ahd 
Ikind ;  those  of  the  gentry  are  of  course  polished, 
I  but  the  common  people,  also,  have  a  winning  gei^^ 
tleness  and  suavity,  and  a  zealous  forwardness  t^?] 
Iserve  yott,  which,  particularly  in  the  villages,  de- 
llighted  us  veiy  much.    £ven  the  common  '*  otit 
l^onnevri"  is  uttered  in  a  manner  so  different  from  ^ 
blunt  coldness  of  oui^common  people,  who  fre- 
Iqueiitly  also  forget  the  Monsieur,  that  we  were' 
[nuch  struck.  With  the  difference.* 

The  women,  of  course,  excel  the  men,  in  all  that  - 
|is  bland  in  manner  and  obliging  in  conduct ;  J^ete 

alsom  lady-like  self-possession  about  them;  they 

*  We  were  treated  ^ith  mooh  kindness,  by  all  classes  of  peo- 
pleinCiliada.     ^-^'^^  ■  •     -      '   . 


'\M' 


''^ 


^% 


TOUB  BBTWEBM  HABTFOBD  ABB  %UBBBC. 

do  not  appear  at  all  embarrassed,  by  the  questions 
of  a  stranger,  but  answer  them  wJ|h  the  ease  and 
politeness  of  higher  life,  without  relinquishing  the 
simplicity  of  manners  ajipropriate  to  their  own  con- 
dition..  It  would  seem  from  the  citations^  which  I 
have  made  from  Charlevoix,  that  there  have  been, 
in  these  respects,  no  serious  changes  in  a  century. 
After  our  visit  to  the  ChAudiere,  being  late  and  in 
haste,  we  asked  for  some  milk  at  a  peasant's  door, 
without  meaning  to  go  in ;  the  milk  was  instantly 
produced,  but,  we  must  not  drink  it  at  the  door; 
*' entrez  Monsieur,"  *'  entrez  Monsieur,"  was  kind- 
ly repeated  by  the  woman  of  the  house,  and  we 
went  in ;  she  seated  us  around  a  taSle.  and  furnished 
us  with  a  bowl  of  fine  milk  and  with  tumblers  to 
drink  it  out  of. 

Mr.  W  was  much  gratified  to  find  that  the 

Ifianners  of  the  peasantry  of  Canada,  remained  pre- 
cisely like  those  of  France.  Like  the  people  of  the  I 
parent  ^untry,  they  continue  ver}'  fond  of  music; 
^  we  freqWntly  heard  the  violin  in  the  streets  of  the 
towns  and  villages.  At  Beauport,  we  saw  them 
dancing  merrily  at  a  wedding,  which  had  just  been 
celebrated  at  noon  day,  and  the.  bride  and  bride- 
groom were  walking  home,  neatly  dressed,  hand  in| 
hand,  and  with  a  cheerful  ain 

There  are  May  poles  in  most  of  their  villages;! 
^ome  of  them  aro  very  high  andjsplendidly  painted  i 
they  voluntarily  erect  them  as  a  mark  of  respect  be- 
fore the  door  of  theinaii  in  the  pillage,  whom  theyl 


^ 


T^' 


.  1V-v#*' 


•# 


TOUB  BETWEEN  HAhTPORO  AND  QUEBEC.  '369 

wish  to  honour  as  their  best  citizen,  and  gaily 
dance  around  them  on  the  first  of  May.  They 
.  are  very  fond  of  dogs — in  the  towns,  they  are,  from 
their  numbers,  a  perfect  nuisance,  and  lately  at  Que- 
bec, a  verdict  of  fifty  pounds,  was  given  by  a  jury, 
for  the  shooting  of  a  dog  by  a  gentleman  at  whom 
he  flew.  The  death  of  the  Duke  of  Richmond, 
seems  not  to  have  excited  any  particular  dread^of 
dogs. 

«  «  «  «  >  If  4t> 

Lower  Canada  is  a  fine  country,  and  will  hereaf- 
ter become  populous  and  powerful,  especially  as 
the  British  and  Anglo-American  population  shall 
flow  in  more  extensively,  and  impart  more  vigour 
and  activity  to  the  community.    . 

The  climate,  notwithstanding  its  seventy,  is  a 
good  one  and  very  healthy,  and  favourable  tathe 
freshness  and  beauty  of  the  human  complexion. 
All  the  most  important  comforts  of  life  are  easily 
and  abundantly  obtained,  although  the  expenses  of 
living  are  high,  considering  the  fertility  of  the 
country.  ^ 

A  more  correct  knowledge  of  Canada,  is  now 
fast  diflusing  itself  through  the  American,  States, 
since  the  intercourse  is  become  so  easy,  and  I  be- 
lieve few  Americatis  from  the  States,  now  visit  this 
country,  without  returning  more  favourably  impress- 
ed, respecting  it  than  they  expected  to  be.  It  will 
%e  happy  if  friendly  sentiments  and  the  interchange 

32!        "  ' 


i^. 


it 


^1 
M 


m 


■H 


# 


I 


S^tt    TOUR  B£TWC£N  UARTFORU  AND  ^UIBBC. 

of  mutual  courtesies  Shall  do  away  the  unfounded 
impressions  and  prejudices  of  both  communities. 
Commercial  intercourse  between  the  two  countries, 
is  also  important,  and  I  presume,  mutually  advan- 
tageous, and  will  probably  continue  to  increase. 
The  commercial  men  of  Canada  are  principally 
British  and  Americans. 


DEPARTURE  FROM  CANADA. 

We  left  Montreal  on  the  morning  of  the  four- 
teelpi,  in  a  thick  snow,  which  however,  soon  ceas- 
ed ;  the  crystals  of  snow  were  all  single  prisms,  or 

%7o  prisms,  united  at  an  angle,  and  not  the  usual 
star  of  six  rays.  The  first  snow  of  the  season  fell 
the  day  before,  when  I  was  on  the  mountain  of 
Montreal.  - 

The  country  and  the  appearance  of  the  people 
between  Montreal  and  St.  Johns,  on  the  river  Sor- 

*6l,  a  distance  of  twenty-Seven  miles,  are  so  similar 
to  what  f  %ave  already  described,  that  I  find  little 
to  add.  ■  ' 

From  Montreal  to  Chcmbly,  fifteen  miles,  is  a 
perfectly  IRat  alluvial  country,  with  a  deep  rich  soil, 
and  appears  to  have  been  a  mere  swamp,  till  cul- 
tivation'had  redeemed  H.  The  road  has  been  made 
hf  dftidiing^  and  embankment,  and  considering  the 
naifore  of  the  country,  ihe  road  is  not  bad. 

Chambly  is  a  eonsl^^ably  large  town,  for  Cana* 
da;  contains iibirgBli^^  some  handsome  houses, 


■i-r^ 


# 


TOUR  BCTWC!^  DAETrORD  AND  qUBBEO.     371 

extensive  barrackt,*  both  for  infantry  and  cavalry, 
and  a  few  troops. 

There  is  here  an  interesting  remnant  of  the  old 
French  dominion.  It  it  a  square  fort  of  stone; 
probably  forty  feet  high,  and  two  hundred  feet  on 
the  ground,  on  each  of  its  sides.  It  has  square 
towers,  projecting  from  each  of  its  angles,  so  that 
every  approach  to  it  could  be  completely  enfiladed 
by  three  tiers  of  cannon.  We  were  permitted  to 
visit  the  inside,  which  is  a  square  open  to  the 
havens,  although  the  walls  are  so  thick,  as  to  con- 
tain numerous  enclosed  apartments.  The  Fianch 
military  works,  in  this  country  are  highly  respieota-  ' 
ble,  considering  the  immaturity  of  the  country,  whett 
they  were  erected,  and  the  length  of  time  that  has 
elapsed  since  nnost  of  them  were  constructed.  The 
fort,  (or  perhaps  it  might  more  properly  be  called 
the  Castle)  of  Chambly  has  the  date  1711,  put  in 
the  stone  near*  the  portcullis.  This  fortress  was 
taken  by  General  Montgomery,  in  1715,  previous  > 
to  the  surrender  of  the  Fort  at  St.  JohnK 

At  Chambly,  the  river  Sorel,  which,  both  above 
and  below,  is  sluggish,  (at  least  it  is  so,,  near  i'l 
mputh  and  at  St,  John's)  becomes  very  yyely,  roar- 
ing 6ver  a  rocky  bottom  and  forming  a  pretty,  al- 
though not  an  impetuous  rapid.  In  the  only  place 
upon  its  banks,  where  I  had  an  opportunity  to^see 
any  of  the  rocks,  they  were  flat  secondary  lime- 
stone, covered  by  9late. 

*  Eieetedt  prittcipallyt  daring  tlie'late  ww,  when  U  was  a  great 
military  station.  .      '^  ..^ 


I 


■ijr 


It 


I 


.If. 


m 


372    TOUE  BETWESN  BABTrOED  AITB  .^UEBilC. 


#■- 


From  Charably  to  St.  Johns,  twelve  miles,  there 
is  a  beautiful  country,  along  the  bank  of  the  river ; 
the  population  is  a  numerou*  one,  and  in  summer, 
this  must  be  one  of  the  finest  rides  that  a  flat  coun- 
try can  present. 

Near  Chambly,  but  on  the  other  side  of  the  river, 
there  is  a  large 'and  handsome  house,  belonging  to 
General  Christie  Burton,  who  has  there  an  estab- 
liallment  of  mills. 

We  ari:ived  in  the  town  of  St.  John's  in  the  after- 
noon. We  were  very  comfortably  accommodated 
at  Cameron's  Inn;  but  St.  John's  is  a  place  in 
whic'h  a  stranger  will  not  wish  to  remain  long.  Al- 
though the  country  is  fertile  about  it,  its  appearance 
is  mean,  dirty,  and  disagreeable.  A  few  troops  are 
stationed  here,  but  the  ancient  ibrt,  which  was  very 
extensive,  and  still  looks  very  venerable,  with  its 
high  oarthen  walls  and  falling  barracks,  is  an  inter- 
esting ruin.  It  was  captured  in  1775  by  General 
Montgomery,  after  a  gallant  defence  and  a  conside- 
rably protracted  seige. 

This  place  was  an  important  post  during  the 
French  wars,  and  even  during  the  revolutionary 
war :  the  s^me  was  true  of  Ghambly,  and  both  have 
been  taken  and  retaken,  althoiugh  I  do  not  remem- 
ber any  very  memorable  event,  that  has  signalized 
their  transfer  from  one  power  to  another. 

In  wandering  abottit  the  ruins  of  the  fort,  I  ob- 
served the  cemetery  of  the  garrison  :  their  monu- 
mejits  are  boards  painted  black,  and  the  inscription 
is  in  white  painted  letters. 


-*« 


T««R  BETWKKN  HARTFORD  AND  HUCBEC.  373 


# 


October  15th,-^At  8  a'dock  in  the  morning,  we 
left  St.  John's  in  the  steam  boat  Congress,  and  al- 
though encountering  both  an  opposing  wind  and 
current,  we  swept  along  with  great  rapidity,  in  one 
of  the  swiftest  and  best  boats  that  I  have  ever  seen. 
She  is  not  large,  but  is  fitted  up  with  great  neat-^ 
ness,  and  every  thing  about  her  is  in  fine  order. 

We  soon  passed  the  Isle  aux  Noix,  which,  as 
observed  in  the  passage  down,  has  also  been  cele- 
brated in  the  military  history  of  these  countries,  and 
is  now  fortified  and  occupied  by  a  considerable 
force.  Troops  appeared  to  be  engaged  in  throw- 
ing up  additional  works.  There  are  large  bat- 
racks  on  this  island,  and  numbers  of  officers  reside 
here,  on  this  low  spot  of  only  eighty-five  acres,  in 
what  appears  to  be  a  gloomy  exile.  This  island  is 
particularly  iinportant  to  the  naval  cdmmand  of 
Lake  Champlain,  and  here  the  unfortunate  Captain 
Downie's  squadron  was  fitted  out. 

In  passing  into  Canada,  I  remarked  that  the  coun- 
try on  both  sides  of  the  river,  quite  to  the  lake,  is  a 
dismal  low  swamp,  with  only  inconsiderable  clear- 
ings and  settlements.  It  is  saidi  however,  to  be 
healthy. 

At  Rouse's  Point,  at  the  confluence  of  the  river 
Sorel  with  Lake  Champlain,  we  again  passed  the 
strong  stone  w<^rk  recently  erected  by  the  United 

32* 


#■  m 


374     TOUB  BETWEEN  BARTVORD  AND  ^,WE»BCk 

States  to  command  the  river,  and  now  about  to  fall 
to  the  British  government. 

Once  more  we  were  in  our  own  waters,  and  in  a 
short  time  passed  around  Cumberland  Head,  which 
is  composed  of  flat  strata  of  secondary  limestone. 


I 


PLATTSBURGH  BAY. 

The  fine  capacious  Bay  of  Plattsburgh  was  now 
before  us,  and  the  pretty  town  of  the  sam^  name. 
The  important  military  events  which  have  occurred 
helHi  are  too  recent  and  familiar  to  make  any  vfery 
particular  notice  of  them  necessary.  This  is  still  a 
military  station,  and  when  one  sees  the  position  oc- 
cupied by  the  British  army  before  it  in  1814,  and 
contemplates  their  numbers,  compared  with  the  fee- 
ble force  which  so  gallantly  opposed  them,  he  is  as- 
tonished that  they  did  not  at  once  storm  and  carry 
the  forts,  and  annihilate  all  opposition^  Every  one 
here  says  that  they  might,  with  the  greatest  ease, 
have  done  it.*  We  were  on  shore  and  visited  some 
of  the  works.  Kv^# 

We  learned  the  exact  position  of  Commodore 
Macdoilou^'s  fleet,  and  passed  over  this -portion  of 
the  bay.  We  conversed  with  numbers  of  persons 
who  were  witnessCH^of  the  action,  and  some  orwhom 
were  on  board  immediately  after  it  was  terminated. 

*  It  doubtless  would  have  been  attempted,  had  the  fleet  been 
victorious ;  but  after  its  destrdction,  the  Acquisition  of  the  forts 
would  perhaps  have  been  of  little  use. 


If  about  to  fall 


TOUE  BETWEEN  HAATFORD  ANB  QUEBEC     375^ 

We  passied  close  to  the  small  island,  called  Crab- 
Island,  to  which  the  dead  and  wounded  of  boUi  fleets 
were  carried,  and  which  was  the  common  grave  of 
hundreds  of  friends  and  foes.  The  particular  de- 
tails of  the  scenes  of  horror  which  attended  and 
succeeded  the  battle — of  the  shocking  mutilations 
of  the  human  form,  in  every  imaginable  mode  and 
degree,  and  of  the  appalling  display  on  the  beach, 
of  so  many  bodies,  dead  and  wounded,  prepara- 
tory to  their  conveyance  either  to  the  hospital  or  to 
the  grave,  I  shall,  for  very  obvious  reasons,  omit. 
Even  now,  their  bones,  slightly  buried  on  a  roa^j 
island,  are  partly  exposed  to  view,  or  being  occa- 
sionally turned  up  by  the  roots  of  the  trees,  blown 
down  by  the  wind,  shock  the  beholder;  and  their 
buttons,  and  other  parts  of  their  clothes,  (for  the 
military  dresses  in  which  they  were  slain,  were  also 
their  winding  sheets,)  are  often  seen  above  ground. 
Long  may  it  be,  e'er  the  waters  of  this  now  peace* 
ful  lake  are  again  cHmsoned  with  human  blood  ! 

One  remarkable  fact  I  shall  mention,  on  the  au- 
thority of  an  American  surgeon,  who  attended  upon 
the  wounded  of  both  fleets.  The  Americans  re- 
covered much  faster  than  the  British,  vthere  their 
injuriectvWere  similar ;  healthy  granulations  formed, 
and  the.|)arts  united  and  healed  more  readily.  This 
v^s  imputed  to  the  diflferent  state  of  mind,  in  the 
victors  and  in  the  vanquished.  » 


# 


V 


h 


i  iii ' 


',11 


-^ 

vf« 

^^^^n 

>* 

¥^m- 

I'i. 


•14j 


■0 


376  TOUR  BKTWXEN  HARTFOBD  AND  ^UEBE«r. 


ANECDOTES. 

A  British  officer  in  Canada,  of  his  own  accord, 
spoke  to  me  in  the  highest  terms  of  the  American 
navy  and  of  its  officers.  He  mentioned  Captain 
Hull  particularly,  with  a  frankness  of  commehda- 
tion,  that  was  equally  honourable  to  himself,  and  to 
tbie  subject  of  his  praise.  He  said  that  an  officer 
of  the  Guerriere,  who  was  on  board  of  that  frigate 
when  she  was  captured  by  Captain  Hull,  narrated 
t<iaflum  the  circumstance,  to  which  I  am  about  to 
allude. 

It  will  be  remembered,  that  when  the  two  frig- 
ates descried  each  other,  Captain  Hull  was  stand- 
ing btfore  the  wind,  and  Captain  Dacres  upon  it, 
udder  easy  sail ;  the  tracks  of  the  ships  were  in 
lines  converging  at  a  considerable  angle,  so  that 
they  would,  of  course,  cross.  When  they  were  with- 
in long  cannon  shot,  the  Guerriere  fired  her  broad- 
side, but  it  was  not  returned  by  the  Constitution. 
The  Guerriere  then  wore,  and  gave  her  antagonist 
the  other  broadside  ;  still  the  fire  was  not  returned; 
but  Capta^  Hull,  with  his  ship  in  fighting  trim,  con- 
tinued to  bear  down  upon  his  adversary,  wl^find- 
ing  that  he  was  thus  pressed,  continued,  on^id  p^rt) 
to  wear  and  to  fire,  first  one  broadside  and  ^n  the 
•ther ;  to  all  thb,  however,  Captain  Hull  i^M  no 


-*^pr  ^ 


TOVIl  BKTWSKN  HARTFOKB  ANB  %U1BKC.  377 


p;*-    I 


n  the  two  frig- 
u\\  was  stand- 
acres  upon  it, 
ships  were  in 
angle,  so  that 
ihey  were  with- 

ed  her  broad- 
Constitution. 

her  antagonist 
|s  not  returned; 

ting  trim,  con- 

lary,  ^tt^"^' 
led,  onlpb  part, 
le  and  ^n  the 
Hull  |id  no 


attention,  but  pressed  forward,  till  he  was  now  very 
oear.  The  Guerriere  then  put  before  the  wind, 
and  the  Constitution  followed  on,  directly  astern, 
till  finding  that  the  Gqerriere  would  outsail  her,  she 
spread  more  canvass,  and  then  gained  so  fast  upon 
the  chase,  that  she  was  soon  enabled  to  choose, 
whether  she  would  lie  across  her  stern,  and  rake  her 
fleeks, ,  or  come  along  side  at  very  close  quarters, 
and  thus  be  again  exposed  to  her  broadsides,  from  > 
which,  as  yet,  she  had  sustained  but  Uttle  damage. 
It  was  this  crisis  of  the  affair  that  excited  so  much 
admiration  among  the  British  officers ;  for  Cap^ii| 
Hull,  instead  of  tearing  his  adversary  to  piecest'li^iw 
eomparative  impunity,  which,  by  tacking  and  lying 
across  her  stern,  he  might  (according  to  the^  opinion 
9/  the  British  naval  officer.)  have  easily  done,  wav- 
ed his  advantage,  and  did  not  fire  till,  coming  upoB 
the  larboard  quarter  of  the  Guerriere,  he  shot  a!l>ng 
side,  and  thus  gave  his  antagonist  an  opportunity 
to  defend  himself.  "  It  was  the  noblest  thing,  (ad- 
Ided  the  British  officer  with  whom  I  was  convers- 
|ing,)  that  was  ever  done  in  a  naval  conflict !" 

From  the  authentic  accounts  of  this  action^  it  is 
Inanifest  that  the  gallant  American  had  it  in  his  pow- 
ler  to  rakfi'  his  adversary,  and  from  whatever  motives 
lit  might  liive  been  done,  he  actually  waved  the  ttd- 
[vantagev   If  we  do  not  charge  it  to  his  magnanimi- 

iBnd  ^generosity,  it  must,  at  least,  go  to  the  ac* 
)unt  ibl^  iiis  bravery,  an#  his  confidence  (not  un- 
iarrante4  by  the  result)  that  he  was  able  to  subdu« 


'^.. 


it 


m 


m 


p. 

It',  .■  ■ 


m 


;* 


^Kfr- 


-^v9^ 


%^B    TOtn  BETWEEN  UARTFOJID  AND  <iUEBEC. 


€-1 
■1 


the  hostile  ship,  without  availing  himself  of  the  ad- 
ventitious advantage  which  he  enjoyed.^ 

A  gentleman  at  Montreal,  mentioned  to  uls,  that  a 
public  dinnel"  was  given  at  Terrebonne,  a  small 
town  a  little  way  below  Montreal,  to  Commodore 
Barclay,  after  his  signal  defeat  by  Commodore  Per- 
iry  on  Lake  Erie.  Barclay,  who  was  sadly  cut  to 
pieces  by  wounds,  of  which  he  Was  hardly  recover- 
ed, and  his  remaining  arm  (for  he  had  lost  the  oth- 
er before,)  being  suspended  in  a  sling,  gave  as  a 
volunteer  toast,  "Commodore  Perry-^^the  brave 
iijd  humane  enemy."  Commodore  Barclay  then 
6«t^rfe4,  '"to  ^  detailed  account  of  Perry^s  treatment 
df  faMself,  and  of  the  other  wounded  and  prisoners,  | 
who  fell  into  hiis  bands ;  and  in  narratiitg  th^  story,  < 
he  became  himself  so  deeply  affected,  that  the  tears 
^pwed  copiously  down  his  cheeks.  The  audience 
itvei^e  scarcely  less  moved ;  and  how  could  it  be 
otherwi^ie,  when  the  speaker,  who,  but  a  few  weeks 
before,  tiad,  without  dismay,  faced  the  tremendousl 

*I  havo  ^keo  care  to  ascertain,  from  unquestionable  authority ithati 
the  above  statement  of  facts  is  accurate.  I  understand,  also,  fromi 
the  sani^  anthority,  that  the  speedy  (all  of  the  masts  of  the  Guer- 
riere  was  the  effect  of  tnarksmanAipt  and  not  aii  accidental  resuitj 
of  random  firing.  The  crew  of  the  Guerriere  appear  to  havej 
bee^n,  in  some  measure,  disconcerted,  by  their  prevfpM  efforts  in 
wearing  so  often,  and  in  firing  so  many  broadsidei^,  Hnu  by  thcj 
singularly  cool  and  undaunted  manner  in  which  ithe<ppnstittitioij 
bore  down  upon  them,  It  is  a  fact  that  they  fired  )^l^»  hoth  i 
io  rapidity  and  direction,  and«||en  did  not  even  Vtiin^eir  gcinf 
out  of  their  porthr'ss,  but  tillv  their  own  wooded  waHs  will 
Ibeir  owo  discharges.  *^¥^  ^ 


m.' 


:# 


T^B^^W^ 


mself  of  the  ad- 
red.* 

ned  tou^,  that  a 
ihonne,  a  small 
to  Commodore 
Jommodore  Per- 
vas  sadly  cut  to 
s  hardly  recover- 
had  lost  the  oth- 
.  sling,  gave  as  a' 
*erry — ^the  brave 
ore  Barclay  then 
Perry's  treatment 
iedand  prisoners,! 
orratiiigthte  story,  1 
5ted,  that  the  tears  I 
The  audience 
how  could  it  be] 
0,  but  a  few  weeksl 
sd  the  tremendousl 


s. 


stionaWeaathorUy.that 
understand,  also,  frQra| 
the  masts  of  the  Guer- 
not  an  accidental  resull 

erriere  appear  to  hav( 
their  prev|#ii  efforts  ii 
broadside^,  «no  by  thi 

which  the  q^nftiW'O' 
bey  fired )!#,  both. 
,ot  even>Uo%ir  goni 
n  woodeil  WaW»  ^''' 

■  -  t  - 


TdUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  379 

cannonade  of  his  enemy,  could  not  now,  without 
tears  of  admiration  and  gratitude,  relate  his  ^eeds 
of  kindness  to  himself  and  his  companions,  when 
suffering  under  wounds  and  defeat.  O !  this  was  a 
nobler  triumph  for  Perry,  thaif  the  victory  which 
God  granted  to  his  arms ! 

«  »  «  4»  4»  4f  » 

Scarcely  had  we  been  gratified  by  the  above 
anecdote,  when  the  New- York  newspapers,  which, 
in  our  parlour  at  Montreal,  we  were  cheerfully  v^ 
fusing,  informed  us,  that  the  brave,  magnajypOiifi^ 
and  gentle  Perry,  had  fallen — not  in  battleSlrll^ 
water,  but  by  a  fever,  in  a  foreign  land..  The  ilews 
would  have  been  sufBciently  ptRinful  at  home,  but 
among  strangers,  and  those  who  were  so  recently 
our  public  enemies,  it  gave  us  a  severe  shock  t'  we 
not  only  felt  that  it  was  a  public  loss,  but  we  nei- 
ther could  realize,  nor  wished  to,  that  it  was  not  oiir 
own  private  bereavement.  Few  men  of  his  age, 
have  done  more  to  serve  and  honour  their  country 
than  Perry,  although  we  must  still  regret  that  he 
gave  his  sanction  to  duelling. 


« 


-* 


';#' 


Jme|,ii.  rapid  sail  across  the  lake,  and  seeing  the 
spot  vrj^$r<^  th^  Phoenix  was  burnt,  and,  at  a  greater 
IdistalAce,  the  rocky  chanW  through  which  General 
lArnoId^^n  1776,  escaped  the  piu^Utl  of  the  Britisli. 


■"#''' 


r 


•■i-* 


0' 


It 


■  * 


''m^^ 


380  TOUR  BITWIEN  BARTrORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

fleet,  we  arrived,  early  in  tl)e  evening,  at  Burling- 
ton, ^here  the  oarriage  was  in  waiting  to  receive  us. 
Before  leaving  the  steam-boat  Congress,  I  will 
remark,  that,  under  the  auspices  of  her  present 
commander,  the  yoUnger  Captain  Sherman,  who 
also  commanded  the  Phoenix  when  she  was  de- 
stroyed, vigorous  measures  have  been  adopted  to 
prevent  a  recurrence  of  a  similar  accident,  and  that 
we  were  much  pleased  with  his  management  of  the 
boat. 


:W- 


^■...- 


UtTBLmGTON,  IN  VERMONT,  TO  HANOVER,  IN  NEW- 
'^^  HAMPSHIRE,  84  MILES. 

We  were  on  the  road  three  days,  and,  as  it  is 
not  remarkably  interesting,  except  for  its  wild  Al- 
jpinascenery,  I  shall  give  but  a  sketch  of  it. 

f^rltngton  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  villages  in 
New-England.  It  stands  on  a  bay,  of  the  same 
name,  is  a  port  of  entry,  and  has  a  population  of  i 
probabj^  nearly  two  thousand.  Rising  ^rapidly 
from  the  take,  and  occupying  the  declivity  end  top 
of  a  high  hill — abounding  with  elegant  houses— 
generally  large,  and  painted  white—having  several 
handsome  public  buildings,  and  (the  most  conspicuous 
and  commanding  of  them  all,)  a  college,  siniated,  on 
1^  most  elevated  ground,  three  hundred  and  thirty 
feet  above  the  surfaoe^o/  the  water ;  the  iinpessioosj 
which  it  makes  oaa  st^l^er,'  are  very  agl^ea})! 
and  the  m(n%0^  ^  it  i»  scarcely  forty  years  sincsj 


■m 


# 


4; 


Cfi' 


# 


■0 


^^H^M 


T0VJl-9r.TWBBN  KAHTVOHD  AND  <|UjK9KC.      381 

this  region  wu  a  wilderness.    Its  buildings  are,  at 
courtybouse,  a  jail*  an  academy,  a  college,  two  hand-  p^ 
some  housee  of,  public  worship,  one  hundred  and 
sixty  dwelling-houses,  and  forty-three  stores,  offices, 
and  tnechanics'  shops.    It  is  the  most  commercial 
place  on  the  lake.*     - 

The 'college  edifice,  is  a  brick  building,  one  hun-  " . 
dred  and  si^cty.  feet  long,  from  forty-five  to  seventy- 
five  wide,  and  four  dtories  high.  Tliis  institution 
was  founded  in  1791,  under  the  appellation  of  the 
University  of  Vermont.  The  building  is  commo- 
di6us;  it  contains  about  fifty,  private  rooms,  ^d  ^ 
good  public  apartments.  .  This  edifice  staiiils  In  a 
most  delightful  situation,  and  from  the  top  of  tt^' to 
which  I  ascended,  there  is  a  grand  and  extensive 
prospect,  although,  in.  the  present  instance,  it  was 
obscured  by  a  fog;  The  number  of  students  was 
stated  to  me,  by  one  of  thejtutors,  to  be  frodnirty 
to  forty.  It  is  well  khown  that,  in  the  Vermont  re- 
public of  letters,  therd  is  a  divisum  imperium,  and 
that  the  two  rival  institutions  of  Middlebary  |nd  Bur- 
lington, hare  long  contended  for  preeminence. 

It  does  not  become  a  stranger  to  make  any  other 
remark,  than  that,  in  a  state  of  no  greater  populatioir, 
the  united  efforts  of  all  the  friends  of  learning  are  not 
more  tian  sufficient  to  sustain  one  institution,  as  it 
()iu|ht  to  lie  supported;  it  is  to  be  hoped  there|pL|;Cj 
that  ^rmont  may,  in  due  time,  combine  all  hei^i^ 
fortSi  and  blend  her  twc^stitutions  into  one. 
"Worcester's  Gasetteer. 


■j^^^- 


"c^ 


m^:^ 


38St    TOUS  .BCTWK£N    UAItTl'OKO   AMD  ^UIIBBC. 


J 


Burlington  c<^lege  has  a  Itbniry  of  about  eight  or 
nine  hundred  volumes,  and  a  small  apparatus.  It 
is  but  just  recovering  from  a  state  of  partial  disor- 
ganisation, produced  by  the  late  war,  when,  for  a 
season,  the  building  was  occupied  by  troops  of  the 
United  States,  and  Mars  put  the  rouses  to  flight. 
The  concession,  however,  it  was  understood,  was 
not  compulsory,  and  was  handsomely  paid  for  by 
the  general  gover^nment.  The  faculty,  when  full, 
consists  of  a  President,  five  professors,  and  two  tu- 
toirs.  At  present,  there  is  a  Prestdentj*  one  profes- 
SOI*,  and,  I  believe,  two  tutors,  who  constitute  the 
actual  faculty  of  the  institution.    • 

It  is  worth  a  journey  across  the  green  mountains, 
which  occupy  almost  the  entire  breadth  of  Ver- 
mont, and  from  which  the  state  derives  its  name,  to 
seethe  grand  views  which  they  present. 

There  is,  in  fact,  a  succession  of  mountains,  one, 
two,  three,  and  four  thousand  feet  high ;  not  here  and 
there  a  single  peak,  but  a  vast  billowy  ocean,  swelled 
into  innumerable  pointed  waves,  and  bold  radges, 
and  scooped  into  deep  hollows.  i 

There  were  but  few  precipices  of  naked  rock; 
most  of  the  sides  of  the  mountains  were  in  full  for- 
est, and  the  varied  hues  of  the  leaves  of  the  maple 
and  oak,  tkow  beginning  to  receive  the  first  influence 
of  frost,  were  finely  contrasted  with  the  liright  ev- 
er|reens.  # 

*Th9  Rev.  J>r.  Austin, 


m. 


TOVil  BBfWEEM  HAllTrORD  AND  ^USBBC.     388 


tAceording  to  the  b&rometKc^]  measurements  of 
Captain  Partridge,  the  Camel's  Rump,  twenty,  miles 
east  by  south  from  Burlington,  is  about  four  thou- 
sand* feet  bigh,  and  many  others  approach  this  ele- 
vation. 

The  day  was  somewhat  obscured  by  rain,  mlst^ 
and  clouds,  which,  while  they  did  not  screen  t|(e 
mountains  from  our  view,  added  a  gloomy  grandeur 
to  the  scene,  and  seemed  the  appropriate  drapery 
of  such  Alpine  regions. 

Most  of  the  country  is  still  unsubdued  by  the 
plough.  Innumerable  stumps,  the  remains  of  the 
pristine  forest,  deform  tlie  fields — ^pines,  and  oth- 
er  trees,  girdled,  dry,  and  blasted,  by  summer's 
heat,  and  winter's  cold — scorched  and  blackened, 
by  fire,  or  piled  in  confusion,  on  fields,  cleared, 
half ,  by  the  axe,  and  half  by  burning— rnum^us 
log  houses,  of  a  rude  construction,  and  incoif^para- 
bly  inferior  to  the  snug  cottages  of  the  Canadian 
peasantry— all  these,  and  many  other  objects,  ittdi- 
cate  a  country,  in  some  parts  at  least,  imperfectly 
subdued  by  man; 

Along  the  Onion  river,  however,  and  its  branch- 
es, we  foUnd  much  clear,  good  land ;  on  thd  sides 
of > the:  tlAountatnSj  many  fields  fit  for  ^sturage, 
and,  almost  every  where,  fine  cattle  dii4  sh^ep) 
but  very  tittle  ploughed  land ;  every  few  miles  also, 
we  caihe  to  good  houses,  and  a  few  villages,  occurred 
on  the  jou;rQey. 

*  Tbjpee  thousind  foor  bandi-ed. — Worcester's  Gazetteer. 


ji> 


rill 


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m 


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I 
1 


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r 


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S84    TOOA  IftrWIEN  ttASYFdRB  AVB  ^CBCC. 


■^ 


At  Montpelier,  in  a*  low  valley^  forty  roHes  from 
the  lake,  we  found  the  legislature  of  Vermont  con- 
▼ened. 

Mofipelier  is  a  small,  and  rather  neat  village,  of 
about  one  hundred  families ;  the  township,  in  whicti 
it  is  situated,  contains  nearly  two  thousand  people ; 
but  this  place  is  so  s^luded,  that  it  seems  as  if  the 
governmeiit  had  sought  retirement,  more  than  pub- 
licity, in  fixing  itself  here.  It  is  probable,  however, 
that  it  was  rather  a  regard  to  a  central  position, 
as  this  place  is  only  len  miles  from  the  centre  of  tlie 
State. 

At  a  little  village,  where  we  attended  public  wor- 
ship, in  a  very  stormy  day,  we  found  a  very  thin 
congregation,  but,  in  a  new  house,. of  couf^derable 
size,  and  much  ornamented  within,  although,  in 
wh^  Would,  perhaps,  be  by  some,  esteemed  an  er- 
roneous taste*  It  was,  however,  honourable  to  the 
public  spirit  of  the  vicinity. 

We  were  much  impressed  in  Canada,  with  the  de* 
vout  appearance  of  the  Catholics  in  their  religious  as- 
semblies, arid  carinot  but  think,  that,  in  this  respect, 
they  have^^'  advantage,  not  only  of  most  of  the 
Protestant  congregations,  in  which  we  have  been 
Present  during  our  journey,  but  also  of  the  greater 
part  of  tliose,  With  which  we  have  been,  elsewhere, 
conversant,  in  Protestant  countries. 

^he  (Qanadian  Catholic  seemt  at  least,  to  ^  de- 
vout, while,  in  Our  Protestant  assemblies,  how  often 
do  we  see^  if'  not  levity,  at  l^a^t  yttcancy,  languor, 


.#* 


TUUa  HKTWELSi  BAjElTt  OKD  ANP  ^ITKBKC.     365 


and  apathy,  and  how  few  appear  to  be,  really  in  ear- 
nest. If  W9  lay  that  the  Catholie  is  so  in  appear^ 
awe  orUyy  he  may  reply,  with  a  force  which  it  will 
not  be  easy  to  obviate,  that  there  is  no  reason  what- 
ever to  infer  the  reality,  where  there  is  not  so  much 
as  the  external  decorum  of  worship* 

The  roads  were  good  through  our  whole  journey 
to  Hanover,  except  the  effects  of  recent  rains,  and 
considering  the  mountainous  nature  of  the  country. 

Wherever  practicable,  they  have  followed  the  riv- 
er courses  along  the  alluvial  bottoms,  and,  where 
they  have  wound  around  the  hills,  it  is  done  with 
great  skill  and  judgment.  Very  frequently,  we  rode 
for  miles,  on  precipices,  where  the  descent  was,  for 
a  great  many  yards  down,  almost  perfectly  abrupt, 
and  a  sliglit  deviation  would  have  been  fatal. 

When  ive  arrived  at  the  height  of  land,  whicl^was 
aliout  sixty  miles  from  the  lake,  the  streams,  now 
tending  towards  the  Connecticut,  indicated  our 
course,  and,  for  six  or  seven  miles,  we  descended  with 
great  rapidity,  the  carriage  almost  constantly  urging 
the  horses  forward,  and,  at  last,  we  found  lodgings 
in  the  beautiful  valley  of  Chelsea,  completely  envi> 
roned  by  mountains,  which,  being  free  from  wood, 
and  prettily  dotted,  here  and  there,  with  flocks  of 
sheep,  reminded  me  powerfully  of  the  Derbyshire 
scenery. 

The  village  was  very  neat,  with  one  of  tH^  best 
inns  which  we  bad  seen ;  we  were  received  with  the 
kindness  of  a  home,  and  with  almost  all  its  coroibrti* 

33» 


,.,i 


# 


i 


Ilk 


^ 


# 


386  TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTTOKB  AND  HVEBEC.  * 

The  next  day,  (October  18tb,)  we  arrived  at 
Hanover,  in  New-Hampshire,  having  prossed  the 
Connecticut  river,  from  the  pretty  town  of  Norwich, 
on  a  bridge. 


GEOLOGY. 

The  geology  of  the  region  over  which  we  had 
passed,  is  snnple  and  grand.  About  seven  miles 
east  of  the.  lake,  tiie  primitive  country  begins,  and 
the  fixed  rocks,  running  in  immense  ledges,  north- 
east, and  south-west,  often  vertical,  or  highly  in- 
olined  in  their  position,  and  with  a  dip  generally  to 
the  east,  are  principally  mica  ,slate,  gneiss,  clay 
slate,  and  chlbrite  slate.  Mica  slate  is,  far,  the 
most,  abundant.  In  some  of  these  schistose  rocks, 
hornjblende  prevails,  but  I  observed  no  granite  in 
plac^y  Granite^,  however,  in  loose  rolled  piecoB, 
some  of  tliem  weighing  many  tons,  prevails  for  the 
last  forty  miles ;  there  is  enough  to  build  several  cit- 
ies; it  is  very  handsome,  has  a  fine  grain,  the  feldspar 
is  white,  the  quartz  grey,  and  the  mica  blacky  and  it  is 
used ,  along  the  road  as  a  building  stone  ;  but  we  can 
discern  no.  source  whence  it  was  derived,  nor  could  I 
learn  that  there  were  wayjixed  rocks  of  tli^  kind  in 
this  region. 

I  ant'  infbrmed  that  the  famous  Chelmsford  gran- 
ite, so  inuch  used  in  Boston,  as  a  building  stone, 
and  which  this  Vermont  granite  strongly  resembles, 
is  found  loose,  like  this,  and  that  no  quarry  of  it  is 
known. 

iMfys 


f 


n 


f 


TOVR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.   38? 

In  Vermont,  these  masses  of  granite  have  every 
appearance  of  having  been  brought  down  from  more 
elevated  regions,  for  they  are  observed  in  deep  val* 
lies,  and  on  the  banks,  and  in  the  beds  of  water 
courses,  and  on  the  declivities,  and  even  high  up 
on  the  sides  of  mountains.  But  they  are  rolled  and 
rounded;  most  of  them  approach  the  globular 
form,  and  all  have  their  angles  and  edges  worn 
away.  Was  this  done  in  the  primitive  chaotic 
ocean,  which  alone  could  afford  time  for  such  an 
agency,  and  may  they  not  even  have  been  trans- 
ported from  a  distant  region,  and  scattered  over  a 
country  to  which  they  are  strangers^  ^       i 


t^il 


HANOVER. 


un 


I 


Ott,  18.T-This  handsome  village,  of  about  sixty    ^^  ^ 
houses,  is  an  agreeable  object  to  a  traveller.    It  is  #^^/^^"' 
bulk  principally  upon  a  small  hollow  square,  which  ^^^-    f 
is  a  beautiful  green.    Most  of  the  houses  are  very^/yi,      / 
neat,  and  some  are  large  and  handsome.  The  great-  4c^  3^  -  C 
er  part  are  painted  white,  and  have  that  lively  ap-  ^>^- 
pearance,  so  common  in  the  villages  of  New-Eng"  ^  '   "    jf 
land.  .  --      ,.'=^^€^1 


DARTMOUTH  COLLEGE. 


■  f!^^ 


This  well  known,  and  highly  respectable  and  use- 
ful institution,  founded  in  1769,  by  r6yal  charter, 
occupies  one  li4?  of  the  square.    The  pribcipal 


♦- 


¥' 


« 

* 


388  TOUR  BEtWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

building,  which  is  of  wood,  is  one  hundred  and  fii'ty 
feet  by  fifty,  and  three  stories  high  ;  it  is  painted 
white.  Besides  thirty-four  private  rooms  /or  the 
students,  it  contains  all  the  public  rooms,  except 
those-  for  the  medical  lectures,  and  the  chapel. — 
The  latter  is  a  small  plain  building,  of  wood,  stand- 
ing in  the  ^sition  of  a  wing  to  the  college.  The 
medical  lectures  are  given  in  a  separate  edifice,  built 
of  brick,  a  little  out  of  the  square,  and  devoted  en- 
tirely to  medical  purposes.  The  building  is  not 
large,  but  sufficient  for  a  school  of  fifty  or  sixty  pu- 
pils,* who  usually  assemble  here  during  the  season 
of  the  lectures,  which  continues  twelve  weeks,  from 
the  first  Wednesday  of  October.  The  building 
would  receive  more,  so  far  as  its  public  rooms  are 
concerned.    The  anatomical  museum  is  small. 

The  numbei  of  medical  professors  is,  at  present, 
three.  There  is  the  same  number^  in  the  academ- 
ical establishment,  who,  with  the  president,f  and  two 
tutors,  constitute  the  faculty.  The  number  of  stu- 
dents at  present,  is  about  one  hundred  and  fifty,  and, 
since^he  termination  of  the  recent  contest,  by  which 
the  old  college  has  been  confirmed  in  its  powers,  it 
appears  to  be  flourishing  more  tlian  before.  During 
that  contest,  and  while  the  buildings  were  in  posses- 
sion of  tlie  other  party,  it  is^aid  that  they  were  con- 


*  If  I  ain  correctly  iafermed,  one  other  prof«isor»hip  is  aft  prcs^ 
eot  vacant.  ^^^, 

>  fAttgttst,  i&m.-^Thii  Institution  has  rteently  been  d«pr!T«d,  Uy 
6eatth»  of  Hi  fxcellent  bewl,  President  Braim. 


.-Ifc 


# 


% 


^ 


TOUll  BETWBEN  MAHtttlKB  AN»  ^VfiBBC.     d89 


*/ 


siderably  hi}i«i(Ji  they  a^#  iit>r  rtdW"i#^  the  Irebt 
state  of  repair,  although  it  was  stated  that  one  thou- 
sand dollars  had  been  expended  upon  themj^  since 
their  restoration  to  their  present  possessors. 

The  library  contains  about  four  thousand  vol- 
umes. The  apparatus  of  this  institution  is  not*  the 
most  extensive,  but  is  competent  to  the  noost  impor- 
tant purposes  of  instruction.  There  are  two  libra- 
ries, of  about  two  thousand  volumes  each,  belonging 
to  private  societies!  among  the  students. 

There  is  a  separate  building  for  comiaons,  but,  at 
present,  none  are  maintained ;  the  students  board 
in  the  village,  and  many  of  them  occupy  ap^artments 
in  it.  I  was  informed,  that  it  is  optional  with  thrnn 
to  have  rooms  in  college,  or  out,  but  their  rooms 
are,  in  both  cases,  visited  by  the  faculty,  and,  aw- 
ing^ without  doubt,  to  the  smallness  of  the  place,  no  in- 
convenience is  experienced'  from  the  fact,  that  a 
part  of  them  afe  in  town. 

RIDE  DOWN  CONNECTICUT  RIVER. 

Oct  19.— We  passed  down  the  New-Hampshire 
Me  of  the  river,  eighteen  miles,  and  then  crossed 
into  Vermont,  at  the  beautiful  town  of  Windsor, 
containing  two  thousand  seven  hundred  fifty-seven, 
inhabitants.* 

There  was  nothing  particularly  interesting  in  the 
iDtervening  cotintryv   Windsor  is  built  upon  two 


!» 


i 


^' 


f 


1390    TOOm  BETWEEN   HABTFORD  ANIT  ^UBBEe. 

principal  streets,  parallel  to  eaeli  other,  tnd  to  the 
tiver^  and,  in  the  lower  street,  shews  sonrething  o^ 
the  bustle  of  businiees;  the  upper  street  is  very  qui- 
et, and  both  are  ornamented  by  very  hapdsoin^ 
bouses,  many  of  them  of  brick,  ^ving.an  air  of  dig- 
nity" and  elegance  to  a  small  town.  There  are  also 
two  handsome  churches,  a  court-house,  an  academy, 
and  a  state's  prison. 

.The  town  has  a  magnificent  back  ground,  in  tho 
high  mountain  Ascutney,  measuMng  three  thousand 
three  hundred  and  twenty  feet,  above  the  sea,  and  tw  o 
thousand  nine  hundred  and  three,  above  the  sur&ce 
of  the  river.f  The  form  of  the  mountain  is  hand- 
some, and  presents  naked  rocks,  at  its  summit. 
4  From  Windsor,  we  passed  down  the  Vermont 
side  of  the 'river,  to  Oharlestown,  where  we  again 
crossed  into  New-Hampshire. 

We  saw,  on  our  ride,  the  ftstablishment  of  Mr. 
Jarvis,  formerly  a  consul  abroad.  He  has  a  very 
extensive  farm,  and  an  entire  village,  named  Weth- 
ersfield,  is  owned  by  him,  and  occupied  by  his  ten- 
ants.    We  passed  tlie  night  at  Charlestowp. 

This  is  another' village  remarkable  for  beauty.  It 
IS  built  upon  one  street,  which  is  very  wide,  and, 
for  nearly  a  mile,  the  houses  are  planted  at  distan- 
ces, convenient  both  for  neighbourbopd  and  accom- 
modation. '  ^'  £ 

f  According  to  Captain  Pflrtr!dg«'«  mftasor^n^ent.  This  gentle- 
man is  estaMiehing  ii  mUUary  acaddroy  at  Nortvleh,  bji^posite  to 
Hanoveojtitd  t  i«rg«  boildlng  i|  no#  ef^iiDgfor  tiiii  parpoae. 


9fi 


.•^ 


ler,  tnd  to  the 
}  sometbifig  o^ 
wt  is  very  qui- 
rery  handsome 
g.«n  air  of  dig- 
There  are  also 
}e,  an  academy, 

•ground,  in  the 
;  three  thousand 
the  sea,  and  two 
i>ove  the  surface 
>untaiu  is  hand- 
its  summit. 
m  the  Vermont 
vhere  we  again 

lishment  of  Mr. 

|He  has  a  very 

I,  named  Weth- 

ipied  hy  his  ten- 

[lestow||. 

for  beauty.  It 
rery  wide,  and, 
[anted  at  distan- 
>pd  and  accom- 


>n»ent.    TbU  gentle- 
^OTwfeh,  opposite  to 
rfortbwpwpoee. 


TOOK  BC7/WEXN  HARTVORD  AND  ^UE9EC.     .391 

Here/  aiv  at  Windsor,  a  largo  proportion  are  vetf 
handsome,  and  there  is  an  extreme  degree  of  neat- 
ness in  the  fields,  gardens,  and  door  yards.  The 
verdure  being  still  fine,  notwithstanding  the  period 
of  the  year,  was  charmingly  contrasted  with  the  bril- 
liant ^hite  of  the  bouses. 

From  Hanover  to  this  place,  the  river  Connecti- 
cut flows  in  a  narrow  channe],  in  most  places  so 
confined  by  very  high  ground,  and  sometimes  by 
mouniftinSf  that  it  seems  to  run  in  the  only  possible 
place,  and  the  chanpel  appears,  asjf  it  had  l^een  cut 
by  Hit,  and  laid  with  exquisite  skilly  through  an  al- 
most impervious  country.  Rarely  do  the  precipi- 
tous banks  reture,  so  as  to  leave  any  meadows,  or 
iat  lands  upon  the  border,  and  the  country  appears 
not  remarkably  fertile.  The  pines^  still  oeoupy  a 
considerable  portion  of  it,  but  most  of  the  large 
ones  are  cut  away;  here  and  therie,  an  ancient  tree, 
still  raises  its  head  to  the  winds,  and  towers  above 
its  compeers.  In  many  parts  of  this  region,  ver^  for- 
midable fences  are  made  by  pulling  up  the  stumpsf 
of  the  gigantic  pine  trees,  and  arranging  them  in  a 
row,  with  their  roots  interlocked. 


GEOLOGT. 

The  geology  of  this  district  is  very  simple.—^ 
At  Hanover,  the  rocks  appear  to  be  a  variety  of 
gneiss,  with  so  large  a  proportion  of  hornblende,  ai^ 
to  become  almost  tbrablende  slate  ;  and  doubtless, 


If 


I 


*'^-<. 


$991     TOUR  BETWBEtl  RARTVOILD  ANO  ^imBEC^. 

ill  some  instances,  they  become  decidedly  that  rock; 
distinct  veins  of  crystallized  hornblende  intersect  the 
rock,  and  it  abounds  in  garnets  remarkable  for  beau- 
ty;  their  angles  are  extremely  vfbW  defined — their 
surfaces  highly  polished,  and  their  colour  almost  as 
fine  as  that  of  the  Spinelle  Kuby.  I  have  seen  no 
such  garnets,  from  the  Jrocks  of  this  country.  - 

From  Hanover,  we  pass  along  in  the  direction  of 
the  ledges  of  rocks,  which  form  the  hills,  bounding 
the  river ;  we  no  longer  cross  them,  as  in  travelling 
over  the  green  mountains,  and  it  is  jnot  always,  easy, 
in  driving  rapidly  by,  or  with  the  x^portunity  of 
only  a  very  hasty  examination,  to  pronounce  confi- 
dently on  their  nature.  v;  , 

This  may,  however,  be  said,  without  hazard,  that 
they  are  all  primitive  slaty  rocks,  generally  highly 
incluaed,  or  vertical. 

Leaving  Charlestown,  v^e  passed  by  its  rich  and 
extensive  meadows,  commencing  just  below  the 
•tdw^  mod  extending  nearly  to  Bellows  Falls,  a  dis- 
tance of  eight  miles.  They  Were  i^ll  very  verdant, 
and  rich  in  herds  of  fine  cattle. 


BELLOWS  FALLS, 

This  place  is  worth  visiting,  both  for  its  bold  and 
picturesque  scenery,  and  for  the  interesting  nature 
of  its  mineralogy  and  geology. 

On  approaching  Bellows  Falls  from  th(9  north, 
ihe  traveller  is  first  struck  by  the  elegant  appear- 


Bdly  that  rock; 
le  intersect  the 
cable  for  beau- 
defined — their 
ilour  tlmost  as 
have  seen  no 
sountry.- 
the  direction  of 
hills,  bounding 
as  in  travelling 
idt  always,  easy, 
i  opportunity  of 
tronounce  confi- 

lout  hazard,  thai 
generally  highly 

by  its  rich  and 
just  below  the 
>ws  Falls,  a  dis- 
till very  verdant, 


for  its  bold  and 
Interesting  nature 

from  the  north, 
elegant  appear- 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFOHfi  AND  <tU£BEC.     39^ 

ance  of  the  small  village  of  Rockingham,  situated 
on  the  Vermont  sid6  of  the  river,  upon  ground 
pleasantly  elevated.  A  neat  church,  semi-gothic, 
and  several  seats  of  gentry,  who  have  clustered  about 
these  falls,  are  finely  contrasted  with  the  wildhess 
and  rudeness  of  the  surrounding  scenery.  On  the 
New-Hampshire  side,  a  very  high  ridge  of  moun- 
tain rock,  I  presume  five  or  six  hundred  feet  above 
the  level  of  theriver,  forms  its  immediate  barrier, 
there  being  only  just  room  for  a  narrow  road  be- 
tween it  and  the  Connecticut.  Immediately  at  the 
foot  of  this  frowning  and  impending  mountain,  is  an 
elegant  establishment,  belonging  to  a  gentleman, 
who  seems  not  to  feel  what  every  observer  must 
dread,  that  his  house  may  be  crushed  by  falling  rocks. 

Bellows  Falls  are  very  much  unlike  any  thing  of 
the  kind  which  we  have  seen  on  our  journey.  They 
are  rather  a  grand  and  violent  rapid  than  a  cataract, 
properly  so  called,  for,  in  no  place  thal^I  sa%  did 
the  water  fall  perpendicularly  for  any  great  diAnce. 
The  river  is,  at  this  place,  very  much  conapressed 
between  ledges  of  rocks,  and,  for  nearly  a  quarter 
of  a  mile,  it  is  hurried  on  with  vast  rapidity,  and  tu- 
mult, anu  roaring.  In  the  whole,  it  falls  fifty  feet,* 
before  it  becomes  again  placid. 

The  bridge,  which  stands  immediately  over  the 
falls,  and  at  the  most  rapid,  that  is  to  say,  at  the 
narrowest  place,  is  a  handsome  object.    Its  founda- 

*  Worcester's  GaKetteer. 
34 


W4> 


# 


.»:*«. 


^.W- 


'*■ 


394     TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  <tt7EB£C. 

tion  is  literally  a  rook,  for  it  is  erected  not  only  up- 
on the  precipices  which  form  the  banks,  but  upon 
the  very  ledges  which  interrupt  the  course  of  the 
river,  and  rise  calmly,  out  of  the  turbulent  scene 
thaf  surrounds  them.  This  is  said  to  have  been 
the  earliest  bridge  erected  over  the  Connecticut, 
and  the  view  of  the  falls  from  it,  is  very  interesting. 
The  water,  which  for  some  way  above,  comes  rush- 
ing over  and  among  very  rugged  rocks,  arrives  in  an 
extremely  agitated  state  at  the  bridge,  under  which  is 
the  grand  pass ;  for  the  stream  is  here  narrowed  into 
tlie  width  of  apparently  twenty  or  thirty  feet,4^and 
rushes  through  with  great  rapidity ;  not,  however, 
in  tke  compressed  state  described  by  the  apocry- 
0ii  historian  of  Connecticut.^  It  is  all  foam,  and 
^  both  immediatcry  above  and  below  the  bridge,  re- 
sembles the  most  violent  breaking  of  the  waves  of 
the  ocean,  when  dashed  up&ii  the  rocks,  by  a  furious 
tempest.  *  A  little  b«I^W  the  bridge,  the  ^Ver  is 
agaiii  hurri^  on,  betWjQep,,two  salient  points  of  rdck^ 
in  a  pttlbe  sa  narrow,  that  one  may  easity  toss  any 
thing  to  the  other  side:  the  angry  surges  here 
struggle  through  with  vast  commotion,  and  rise,  in 
-white  crested  waves,  the  very  sight  of  which  makes 
one's  head  giddy^. 

Bello^^s  Falls,  as  a  piece  of  scenery,  are  peculiar, 
on  account  of  a  certain  snugness,  which  marks  the 
entire  collection  of  mountains,  rocks,  and  river-tor- 

*  Fette. . :  who  says  that  the  water  b  hert  ao  dense  that  it  can- 
not be  piercf  4^y  a  crowbar. 


'*«-^ 


ft^T"*, 


TOtR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  39$ 

rent,  and  pretty  houses,  which  are  all  approached 
without  the  slightest  inconvenience,  and  are  com- 
prised within  a  very  small  compass.  On  the  west 
side  there  is  a  canal  half  a  mile  long,  around  the 
falls;  it  has  nine  locks.  .^ 


/" 


GEOLOGY  AND  MmERALOGY. 

The  rocks  at  this  pass  are  sienite,  mica  slate,  and 
a  peculiar  aggregate  of  mica  and  feldspar,  very 
much  resembling  sienite.  The  strata  run  in  the 
s»nie  direction  as  the  great  mountain  ranges  in  the 
vicinity,  only  they  a.te  very  low ;  the  torrent  ap- 
pears as  if  it  had  once  broken  through,  and  very 
possibly  there  might,  anciently,  have  been  a  lake 
above  this  place.  A         ^ 

I  Would  strongly  recommend  a  particular  exam- 
ination of  the  rocks  about  Bellows  Falls.  The  few 
moments  which  I  had  to  spend,  I  occupied  in  in- 
spiting  the  ledges  on  tlie  Vermont  side,  and  below 
the  bridge.  They  appear  to  be  sometimes  over- 
flowed, for  they  contain  numerous  excayatipns,  evi- 
dently worn  by  the  water,  agitating  the  pebbles  and 
stones,  and^  as  long  as  the  freshet  lasts,  whirKng  them 
with  incessant  motion.  Numbers  of  these  cavities, 
both  here  and  at  the  bridge;  are  of  considerable  di- 
mensions ;  some  are  cylindricd,  others  are  shaped 
like  cauldrons,  tod  are  large  enough  to  serve  that 
purpose. 

In  the  recks  alluded  to,  there  are  numerous  veins, 
some  of  them  a  foot  wide  or  more.    The  veins  are 


i 


I: 

I 


396     TOUR  BETWBKN  HARTFOllD  ANB  ^^VCBBC. 

quartz  or  feldspar,  br  more  frequently,  they  are 
proper  granite  veins.  In  them  I  observed  violet  or 
rose  coloured  mica,  and  that  of  a  straw  yellow; 
feldspar  resembling  the  adularia  ;  garnet ;  tourma- 
lin, both  the  common  black  schorl,  and  the  indicov 
lite,  and  talc.  In  loose  rocks  there  was  also  abun- 
dance of  tremolite  and  of  sappar.  There  can  be  little 
doubt  that  a  few  blasts  of  gunpowder  would  uncov- 
er fine  iVesh  specimehs  of  these  interesting  miner- 
als. 


From  Bellows  Falls,  we  passed  down  to  Wal- 
pole.  This  is  another  handsome  village  ;  some  of 
the  houses  are  splendid. 

Putney»  on  the  Vermont  side,  presented  nothing 
particularly  interesting. 

We  reached  Brattleborough  at  evening,  and  there 
passed  the  bight.  ^ 

In  Dummerston  I  saw  a  great  slate  quarry :  the 
strata  were  vertical,  and  the  excavation  was  like  a 
deep  canal,  so  that  as  I  walked  into  it,  the  perpen- 
dicular strata  formed  a  perfect  wall  on  both  sides, 
and  I  trod  on  their  edges.  It  was  a  fine  example  of 
primitive  roofing  slate  ;  and  from  this  place  and  the 
vicinity,  at  Brattleborough,  &c.  it  is  extensively 
quarried,  and  carried  down  thje  riv^r. 

In  speaking  of  the  villages  on  Connecticut  river, 
I  often  use  the  epithets  beautiful,  handsome,  &sc.  till 


%i. 


TOUB  BETWJBKN  BARTFORT  AND  ^U£BEC.     397 

they  are  in  danger  of  becoming  trite.  Still  I  must, 
repeat  them  with  respect  to  the  eastern^  village  of 
Brattleborough. 

This  village  is  built  principally  upon  one  street, 
«nd  contains  very  few  houses  or  shops  that  are  not 
an  ornament  to  the  place.  The  street  is  parallel  to 
the  river,  and  passes  through  luxuriant  meadows, 
spreading  into  an  extensive  champaign,  bounded 
by  the  Connecticut,  which  here,  for  miles,  washes 
the  base  of  a  grand  mountain-barrier,  that  limits  the 
view  on  the  east.  This  view  was  best  seen  in  re- 
trospect, as  we  rose  the  hill,  at  the  south  end  of  the 
town.  Thencvi  we  saw  this  jDountain-range,  prob- 
ably here  one  thousandf  feet  high,  covered  with  tlie 
richest  drapery  of  the  forest,  and  stretching  away 
to  the  north,  while  the  Connecticut,  gently  washed 
ita  foot,  9nd  the  pretty  village,  with  its  white  houses 
and  brilliant  church,  rose  in  the  midst  of  a  rich 
meadow. 

But,  the  most  interesting  object  in  Brattleborough, 
is  its  venerable  pastor,  with  whom,  at  his  pleasant 
rural  abode,  we  had  the  honour  of  an  evening  in- 
terview. At  the  age  of  75,  he  has  recently  return- 
ed from  England,  his  native  country,  after  a  visit  of 
eighteen  months.  He  had  been  absent  from  Eng- 
land twenty-five  years,  and  found,  on  returning  to 
his  native  town,  which,  (except  occasional  visits,) 

*  The  other  villi^  I  did  not  see. 

t  This  is  a  eonjectore  merely :  I  know  not  of  any  meamire* 
went  '*^^ 

34* 


J# 


-I*,-; 


I'll 


P 


^ 


398     TOUR  BBTWEEW  HARTFORD  AND  ^UERKC* 

he  left  sixty-three  years  since,  that  but  one  perton 
remembered  him,  Even  the  monuments  of  his  co- 
temporaries  ui  the  grave  yard,  were  so  moss-grown, 
that  he  could  not  read  the  inscriptions,  and  those  of 
the  pursons  who  had  died  more  recently,  he  did  not 
know.  He  found,  however,  many  friends  in  vari- 
ous parts  of  England,  who  remembered  him  with 
affection.  The  country  appeared  to  him  greatly 
improved,  and  to  exhibit  the  most  decided  proofs  of 
a  thriving  condition ;  but  his  adopted  country  he 
greatly  prefers,  and  gladly  returned  to  end  his  days 

The  venerable  man,  4t  once  an  instructive  and 
delightful  Mentor,  entertained  us  with  many  of  the 
incidents  of  his  tour,  the  relation  of  which  was 
enlivened  by  the  most  interesting  remarks. 

He  is  like  the  aged  oak,  whose  boughs  are  still 
adorned  with  leaves,  and  whose  root  is  still  firm  in 
the  ground,  although  it  has  endured  the  vicissitudes 
of  many  revolving  summers  and  winters. 


i'^K'^ 


'M 


October  2Ut» — We  left  Brattleborough  in  the 
iiiorning,  and  eleven  miles  below,  crossed  the  bridge 
into  Northfield,  in  Mat:sachusetts. 

Northfield  is  a  neat  village,  on  a  wide  street  situ- 
ated on  a  hill,  but  the  houses  are  plain ;  the  place 
.had,  however,  an  air  of  comfort  and  snugness. 


-*.* 


%/^ 


:% 


-■*!?«»■ 


TOUR  BBTWECN  HARTFeRD  AMD  qUBBIO.  399 


•1 


GEOLOGY,  Lc. 


^ 


In  this  street,  a  very  interesting  change  was  ob- 
served in  the  geology.  Rocks  occurred  both  loose 
and  in  place,  compoted  of  fragments ;  they  were  of 
every  size,  from  a  foot  or  even  several  feet  in  diam- 
eter, down  to  small  grains.  These  fragments  were 
evidently  the  mint  of  primitive  rocks  .'^-entire  pie- 
ces of  granfte,  with  all  its  constituent  parts  distinct ; 
of  gneiss,  mica  slate,  chloride  slate,  common  slate, 
&ic.  were  interspersed,  and  the  cemeint  which  bound 
them  together,  was  merely  the  same  materiab,  re- 
duced to  a  fmer  state.  T^se  rocks  are  very  in- 
structive. Coming  immediately  after  the  primitive 
country,  and  indeed  in  dose  connexion  with  it,  and 
being  composed  uf  fragments  of  primitive  rocks 
confusedly  jumSIed  together,  tkey  appear  to  lay 
strong  claims  to  a  transition  character. 

Passing  down  through  Northfield  into  Montague^ 
we  came  to  extensive  ranges  of  primitive  rocks, 
chiefly  gneiss ;  but  in  them  occurred  great  beds  of 
granite,  the  first  that  I  had  seen  in  place  on  ouir 
whole  journey.  Primitive 'rocks  continued  to  tht 
upper  lock  of  Miller's  Falls :  the  canal  here,  is  cut 
through  a  coarse  conglomerate,  composed  of  frag- 
ments of  primitive  rocks. 

The  scenery*  at  this  place  is  handsome;  and  at 
the  confluence  of  Miller's  River  with  the  Connect- 
icut, the  latter  forms  a  great  bow,  and  looks  like  a 
lake  surrounded  by  high  bills. 


I 


[iT: 


# 


^400  TOUm  BB9WKBN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC. 

Severitl. miles  below,  we  ciame  to  Miller's  Falls. 
The  river  runs  nea|iy  north-we^t^  and  is  precipitated 
over  the  strata,  which  at  thismte  cross  the  river, 
and*  form  a  natural^|pm.  In  tne  middle  of  the  riv- 
er,^ rocks  rise  so  high  that  they  form  an  island, 
ftB4-^l  torrent  is  therefore  divided,  as  at  Niagara. 
Through  the  whole  width,  which  is  one  thousand 
two  hundred  feet,  there  i»  an  artificial  dam  of  tim- 
ber, built  upon  the  natural  one.  The  fall  thus  be- 
comes thirty  feet,  and  is  very  beautiful  in  its  kind. 
It  is  in  fact,  a  vast  mill-^am,  and  is  said  to  be  a  very 
good  miniature  of  Niagara.  The  whole  scene  is  a 
fine  one,  and  was  soMJNTerent  from  either  of  the 
other  falls  that  we  had  seen,  that  it  was  an  agreea- 
ble addition. 

The  object  of  damming  these  falls,  is  to  feed  with 
witfer,  the  canal  which  is  cut  around  them,^  and  to 
render  the  current  for  three  miles  above,  less  rapid. 
This  canal  is  two  miles  long,  and  we  rode  along  its 
bMik,  to  its  junction  with  the  Connect  ut 
<^.'The  rocks  which  form  the  natural  dam  at  Miller's 
Falls,  are  composed  of  fragments  of  primitive  rocks ; 
but  generally  these  fragments  are  hot  large,  rarely 
exceeding  an  inch  or  two  in  diameter,  and  general- 
ly smaller  than  that.  The  strata  have  an  inclina- 
tion of  forty-five  degrees,  alid  have  every  mark  of 
4he  earliest  class  of  fragmented  roQks.  Are  they 
not  a  variety  of  Greywackfi  Their  dii'ection  is 
Beariy  nprth-eas^  and  sout|]i-west. 


-■(•fer 


*1>  w.. 


A 


% 


TOUlt  BETWEEN  BARTfOiUk  AND  QUEBEC.      40lF 


We  crossed  the  O^pnecticut  again,  at  the  place 
where,  by  completing  its  great  b^d,  it  returns  to  ks 
usual  direction  of  north  and  south.  '      ji#%:; 

We  now  arrived  in  the  town  of  Greeniiela,  aiiu 
on  ascedding  the  hiil  from  the  river,  I  saw,  for  the 
first  time,  in  this  part  of  the  country,  trap  rocks  ip 
place.  They  here  constitute  an  extensive  range,  ex- 
tremely well  characterized,  and,  (agreeably  to  Mr. 
Hitchcock's  excellent  account  of  the  geology  of  thip 
vicinity,*)  form,  very  nearly f^e  northern  extremity 
of  the  great  trap  ranges,  whidh  commence  at  New- 
Haven  and  cross  completely  both  the  States  of 
Massachusetts  and  Connecticut.f 

The  fragmented  rocks,  which  in  nearly  the  whole 
of  this  range,  lie  beneath  the  trap,  I  here  had  the 
pleasure  of  seeing  emerge  from  under  it,  at  a 
high  angle  of  inclination,  and  at  a  high  elevation,  on 
the  side  next  to  the  village  of  Greenfield. 


,  #1. 


f 


I 


From  the  hill  in  question,  we  had  a  fine  view  of 
this  village,  which  stands  principally  on  two  inter- 
secting streets ;  has  a  number  of  handsome  houses, 
and,  for  a  country  town,  an  ui^ommon  proportion 

*  See  American  Journal  QiLScienoe,  vol.  1.    ,         ^ 

t  The  same  tbat,  in  sketching  the  iceneiT^in.  the  midflle  region 
of  Connecticut,  virrre  described  early  In  this  voj^e. 

.  V  ■ ' .' 


■4'] 


I, 


'^H^; 


«A 


* 


402     TOUtt  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  ^VEBKC 

of  brick  bpi](|ings.    Walpole  also  has  a  number, 
and  Wmdsor  Mai|;er  number  t^An  either. 

Gieenfifild  stands  two  m|^r  from  Connecticut 
riVIr,,  on  a  high  plain,  whicK  wiclines  gently  to  the 


It  has  handsome  churches,  a  court-hduse,  a 


DE&RFIEtD. 

Just  at  evening,  we  drove  over  to  Deerfield,  a  dis- 
tance  of  tbrecraile^,  through  the  most  luxuriant  and 
beautiful  country,  thi^;,  we  had  any  where  seen  in 
our  whole  journey. .  ^his  country  is  the  fine  allu- 
vial region,  intersected  by  the  Deerfield  river,  and 
probably  formed  b j^  it,  as  the  alluvial  countries  on 
rivers  generally  appear  to  b<r.  Even  now,  in  the 
latter  part  of  October,  the  grass  is  most  vividly 
gre^n,  thickly  matted,  and  rich  as  the  shag  of 
velvet.  The  remains  of  the  crops  of  corn,  evinced 
4|lsp  great  productiveness,  and  seemed  almost  to  re- 
alise the  fables  of  the  golden  agies. 

We  were  comfortably  lodged  in  a  good  inn,  just 
in  time  to  visit,  before  dark,  a  very  interesting  anti- 
quity in  this  town. 

In  the  early  periodts  of  the  history  of  the  New- 
England  colonies,  Deerfield,  being  for  a  long  eourse 
«f  years,  a  frontier  town,  was  very  often  attacked 
by  the  French  and  Indians  lirom  Canada,  imd  its 
inhabitants  wercL  ffO^Btly  slain,  or  carried  into 
captivity.  .   #       ^ 


if 


^*. 


TOUR  B£TW££N  HARTFORB  AND  QUEBEC.  4Q3 

To  guard  agdnst  these  attacks,  an  extensive  fort 
was  established,  ind^ding  within  its  limits,  many  of 
the  houses,  and  fo^Kog  a  place  of  retreat  and  of 
security  for  the  inb^mtiints. 

In  Pebruaiy,  1704,  this  fort  was,  by  the  negli- 
gence of  the  sentinelj  surprised  and  taken,  just  be- 
fore day  light,  and  the  inhabitants  were  aroused 
from  their  slumbers,  by  the  furious  attacks  of  cruel 
enemies,  upon  their  defenceless  dwellings.  Most 
of  the  houses  were  burnt,  and  their  wretched  ten- 
ants we:e  *tb«r  dragged  away  into  captivity,  or 
slaughtere  .»  heir  own  habitations,  or  .near  them. 
Men,  women,  and  children,  were  indiscriminately 
slain,  and  parents  saw  their  little  ones  butchered  be? 
fore  their  eyes.  '^' 

One  house  still  remains,  as  a  painful  memento  to  ^' 
posterity.  The  front  door  was  hacked  and  hewif 
with  hatchets,  until  the  savages  had  cut  a  hole 
through  it ;  through  this  hole  they  fired  into  the 
house ;  this  door,  which  still  bears  its  ancient 
wounds,  and  the  hole,  (closed  only  by  a  board,  tack- 
ed on  within,)  remains  now,  as  the  savages  left  it, 
and  is  a  most  interesting  monument. 

Through  the  windows  they  also  fired,  and  one 
bullet  killed  the  female  head  of  the  family,  sitting  up 
in  bed,  and  the  mark  Of  that  bullet,  as  well  as  of 
four  others^  is  visible  in  the  room  ;  in  one  of  the' 
holes  in  a  joist,  another  bullet  remains  to  this  day. 
This  family  was  all  killed,  or  carried  into  captivity. 


I 


0 


n 


■#x 


%«:■ 


* 


404    TOUR  BETWEEN  IIAilTFUHD,J||)l}  ^^IfEJiEC. 

In  the  same  uttaoky  the  olergymaa  of  ^e  place, 
the  Rev.  John  Williams,  ^iM^  family)  shared  a 
similar  fate.  Two  of  the  (H|ren  were  killed  at 
the  door,  Mrs.  Williams,  the^||other,  intbe  mead- 
ows, a  little  way  out  of  town,  and  Mr.  Williams, 
and  the  rest  of  the  family,  were  carried  prisoners  to 
Canada. 

We  saw,  in  the  museum,  in  Deerfield  academy, 
the  pistol  which  he  snapped  at  the  Indians,  when 
they  rushed  into  his  bed  room. 

Mr.  Williams*  lived  many  years  after  his  return, 
and  I  saw  his  grave,  and  that  of  his  murdered  wife. 
On  the  latter,  is  a  very  pr(^r  inscription,  which  1 
#egret  that  I  omitted  to  copy. 

ft        *       ^        *        ft        ft        ft 

Deerfield  is  a  plain  venerablb  town,  with  good 
buildings,  but  not  many  of  them  are  in  the  modern 
style ;  this  circumstance  is,  however,  rather  pleas- 
ing, than  otherwise. 

Deerfield  extends  about  a  mile  ph  one  street ;  it 
has  a  highly  respectable  academy,  the  finest  mead- 
ows in  New-England,  and  a  very  interesting  ancient 
history,  upon  which  I  have  no  time  to  enlarge. 


Oct.  22. — ^We  left  Deerfield  on  a  fine  morning, 
and  extended  our  ride  thirty-eight  miles,  to  Sprin§>> 

*  The  bouse  of  public  vrorihip,  in  wdieb  Mr.  WilUiiilt  used  to 
preft«h,  it  itill  itaa4i«s  in  UeerleU.  * 


f:i?'if'- 


^• 


.^' 


m 


TOVR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.   405 

field.  We.followed  the  Deerfield  mountain— •^cross- 
ed the  fatal,  bloody,4ipr,  as  it  is  now  called,  muddy) 
brook,  where,  on*  'lSJ0y  12th  of  September,  1675, 
Captain  Lathrop,  ^Hfn  almost  his  whole  company, 
of  ninety  or  an  hundred  young  men,  the  flower  of 
that  region,  was  cut  off  by  thejndians,  who,  to  the 
number  of  seven  or  eight  hundred,  attacked  them 
by  surprize,  when,  as  is  said,  most  of  the  party 
were  engaged  in  gathering  grapes. 

We  rode  down  to  the  ferry  at  Sunderland,. to  ob- 
tain a  good  view  of  the  Sugar  Loaf  Mountain,  which 
is  so  well  described  by  Mr.  Hitchcock,*  that  I  hav€ 
scarcely  occasion  to  remark,  that  it  is  composed  of 
conglomerate  rock,  and  that  the  mountain  back  of, 
it,  is  trap. 

We  crossed  through  Hatfield,  over  to  Hadley, 
and  thence  into  Northampton,  where  we  dined. — 
It  is  hardly  necessary  to  say  any  thing  of  these 
scenes,  which  are  so  luxuriant,  and  so  well  known, 
that  their  beauty  is  quite  proverbial. 

Hatfield  and  Hadley  are  neat  and  venerable  pla- 
ces, and  Northampton  is  one  of  the  finest  inland 
towns  in  America. 

The  great  bends  of  the  river  here — the  bold 
scenery  of  Mount  Holyoke,  and  Mount  Tom,  and 
the  rich  and.  grand  landscape,  from  their  summits, 
particularly  from  the  former,  have  been  often  de- 
scribed, and  can  hardly  be  exaggerated. 


*  American  Journal  of  Science. 

35 


406 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  (QUEBEC. 


At  West  Springfield,  we  called  on  the  venerable 
Df ,  Lathrop,  now  almost  eigl^-eight  years  old ;  he 
will  complete  that  age,  he  iajplited  us,  on  the  last 
day  of  this  month.  His  sigltt-lfc  almost  extinct,  but 
his  other  faculties  appear  unimpaired.  He  is  erect 
and  vigorous,  walks  well,  and  his  features  are  not  in- 
mjured ;  his  head  is  covered  with  fine  white  locks, 
and  his  whole  appearance  is  very  interesting.  He 
is  recently  relieved  from  public  duty  by  a  colleague; 
and,  after  about  sixty  years  of  the  most  useful  la- 
bours as  a  preacher,  is  well  entitled  to  rest ;  as  a 
writer  of  sermons,*  he  has  been  excelled  by  few  in 
this  country. 

Oct.  23. — We  passed  the  last  night  at. Spring- 
field, which,  in  beauty,  hardly  yields  to  any  town 
on  the  river.  In  the  morning,  I  visited  the  United 
States  armory,  and  was  much  gratified ;  for  order, 
4  neatness,  and  high  excellence,  in  every  department— 
under  the  able  management  of  Colonel  Lee,  it  mer- 
its the  highest  eulogium. 

We  proceeded  through  Long  Meadow  to  En- 
field, and,  at  the  bridge,  on  the  eastern  side,  I  was 
.  })leased  to  observe  the  sand  stone  rocks,  filled  with 
the  remains  of  vegetables,  bituminized  and  car- 
bonized^ and  afi^ording  one  indication,  among  many, 
of  a  region  containing  coal.  This,  and  the  contigu- 
ous places,  should  be  more  attentively  examined. 


*  Allusion  is  liere,  of  course,  mad<i  to  tbe  volumes  of  sermons, 

vAiir.h  he.  has  published.'  '  ' 


he  venerable 
years  old ;  he 
J,  on  the  last 
St  extinct,  but 
He  is  erect 
ires  are  not  in- 
3  white  locks, 
teresting.    He 
)y  a  colleague; 
most  useful  la- 
to  rest ;  as  a 
elled  by  few  in 

light  at.Spring- 
ds  to  any  town 

iited  the  United 
,ed ;  for  order, 
y  department— 
lel  Lee,  it  mer- 

[eadow  to  En- 
Itern  side,  I  was 
)cks,  filled  with 
Inized  and  car- 
i,  among  many, 
ind  the  contigu- 
Lly  examined. 

[olumes  of  sermons, 


TOUR  BETWEEN  HARTFORD  AND  QUEBEC.  407 

Through  Windsor,  we  proceeded  to  Hartford, 
and,  arriving  there  bdl^tre  evening,  almost  five  weeks 
from  the  time  of  oiir  departure,  found  those  in  health 
and  prosperity,  ^i^  *  lifere  most  interesting  t"  :  -  ^ 
and,  in  the  retrospect,  perceived  much  cause  for 
satisfaction,  and  still  more  for  gratitude,  that,  in  tfav- 
elling  nearly  twelve  hundred  miles,  not  one  disaster^ 
nor  one  serious  disappointment,  had  given  us  occa- 
sion to  regret  the  undertaking. 


REMARK. 

I  have  said  very  little  of  the  public  houses  and 
accommodations,  on  the  journey.  Should  this  be 
thought  a  deficiency,  it  is  easily  supplied  ;  for,  we 
found  them,  almost  without  exception,  so  comforta- 
ble, quiet,  and  agreeable,  that  we  had  neither  occa- 
sion, nor  inclination  to  find  fault. 

Great  civility,  and  a  disposition  to  please  their 
guests,  were  generally  conspicuous  at  the  inns; 
almost  eveiy  where,  when  we  wished  it,  we  found 
a  private  parlour  and  a  separate  table,  and  rarely, 
did  we  liear  any  profane  or  coarse  language,  or  ob- 
serve any  rude  and  boisterous  deportment. 

SnWtrSilSr 


V 


